• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.135-145
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• 2017

In order to analysis on color difference of yellow natural dyes, I have dyed cellulose and protein fabrics. The results of experiment have been analysed by wavelength of maximum absorption, amounts of dye uptake, color difference, Hunter's value and Munsell's value. The results from these analyses are as follows : Bud of pagoda tree, Amur cork, and Curcuma showed greenish yellow color, Gardenia Jasminoides showed reddish yellow color. Barberry root showed reddish yellow color with post-mordanting method on cellulose fabric. Moreover, Dupioni silk was dyed in reddish yellow color by Barberry root and Rhubarb. In addition to Chroma index, Gardenia Jasminoides and Curcuma showed clear color overall. However, dyeing rayon and silk by Barberry root, and dyeing silk by Rhubarb showed clear color. Comparing all the results to actual dyed materials, Bud of pagoda tree had small dye uptake, and both ${\Delta}a$ and ${\Delta}b$ value were short which can't recognized the yellow color easily. Dye uptake of Amur cork and Gardenia Jasminoides was small just like Bud of pagoda tree. However, ${\Delta}b$ value order was Gardenia Jasminoides>Amur cork>Bud of pagoda tree. Therefore, Gardenia Jasminoides recognized reddish yellow because of big value of red color and yellow color. In case of Barberry root and Rhubarb which have larger dye uptake, Baberry root recognized yellow color on rayon only, and couldn't recognized yellow color on bleached cotton fabric, ramie, silk, and dupioni silk. Rhubarb recognized yellow color on rayon with pre-mordanting method only, but recognized silk and dupioni silk as brown like color. Moreover, we could not analyze color by dye uptake, Lab, and H(v/c) for Barberry root and Rhubarb. As a result, I think we need to attach color table for the research paper which handled the color of dyeing materials.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제42권1호
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• pp.36-41
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• 2000

The indigo dyeing on silk was carried out by the use of fresh leaves juice of polygonum tinctorium. By means of spectroscopic analysis, it is proved that indoxyl are present in the juicese due to the enzymatic reducing of indican contained in the leaves. In case of fresh leaf dyeing, K/S value of dyed fabric was higher at 25$\^{C}$ than at 35$\^{C}$ of the dyeing temperature, its colour fastness aganist washing, perspiration and ligt ranged from 4 to 5 grade.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.25-28
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• 1978

견직물중 제직된 이후에 정련을 요하는 후연직물은 우이중 주자 축면등이 있다. 이들 견직물은 그 무게의 범위가 규정되어 있고 만일에 그 규격에 맞지 않는 경우에는 불합격되는 예가 있다. 이러한 무게를 결정하는 주요한 요소는 생사의 섬도, 연감률, 경사ㆍ위사의 밀도 및 경사ㆍ위사의 면도가 좌우하지마는 경사ㆍ위사의 밀도는 견직물종류에 따른 무게에 의하여 일정한 한도가 정해져 있고 축도 역시 견직물의 종류에 따라서 그에 상당하는 축도가 정해져 있으므로 견직물의 무게를 좌우하는 가장 중요한 요소는 생사의 섬도와 연감율이라고 할 수 있다.

• 한국섬유공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국섬유공학회 2001년도 가을 학술발표회 논문집
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• pp.392-396
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• 2001

Natural silk is formed by two proteins ; the crystalline fibroin (inside the silk thread) and amorphous sericin (as a tube outside the thread). The degumming process is used th eliminate the external sericin prior to dyeing ： generally it makes use of soaps at pH 10. (omitted)

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제28권1호
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• pp.66-71
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• 1986

생사 및 견직물에 대한 효소정련방법을 구명하기 위한 시험 결과 1. 각종 효소정련조건이 정련효율에 비치는 영향에 있어서 정련온도 및 정련용의 산도는 Papain 7$0^{\circ}C$, pH 5-6, Trypsin 4$0^{\circ}C$ pH 8, Alkalase 50-6$0^{\circ}C$, pH 8-9에서 각각 정련효율이 가장 높았다. 2. Alkalase 처리농도가 생사의 정련효율에 미치는 영향에 있어서 처리농도가 0.6-1.0g/l 범위에서 높이면 정련시간을 단축시킬 수 있다. 3. 생사의 Alkalase정련에 있어서 정련전처리(95$^{\circ}C$, 10분 1g/l NaHCO3) 또는 정련후처리(2%, o.w.f. sodium silicate, 8$0^{\circ}C$, 20분)를 행하면 정련효율을 향상시킬 수 있었다. 4. 효소정련견사의 강력(g/d), 신도 및 라우지네스 성적은 비누 정련견사에 비하여 향상되는 경향이었다. 5. Alkalase에 의한 효소정련에 있어서 생견직물의 조련정도가 정련효율에 미치는 영향은 조련연감율이 높을수록 효소정련효율이 높았으며 205 이상에서는 하부다에 및 크\ulcorner데신 모두 완전한 정련이 가능하였다. 6. 조련연감율을 20%로 한 견포에 대하여 3종의 효소정련을 실시한 경우 Papain 및 Trypsin 정련구는 Alkalase 정련구에 비하여 정련효율이 저하되었다. 7. 효소정련견포의 강건도는 크\ulcorner데신의 경우 1.27cm로서 대조인 비누소오다 정련견포 1.53cm에 비하여 17% 저하되었고 Drape 계수는 0.297로서 비누소오다 정련견포의 0.321에 비하여 7% 감소됨으로서 유건한 촉감이 향상되었다.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2001년도 19th International Costume Association Congress
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• pp.34-36
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• 2001

Chirimen (silk crepe) has been one of Japan's most distinctive textiles since times and has gained a reputation worldwide as the supreme example of Japanese costume. It is because of its distinctive quality and features, transcending the history, lacation and lacal of the people who wear this form of clothing, that chirimen has continued to highly valued over a long historical period. There is a wide range of literature on the subject of chirimen written from the standpoints of introducing the various types of material, discussing its history, and looking at the origins of the textile unions. However, most such writings are little more than fragmentary attempts to describe these matters from an empirical and publicity-oriented position. Very little serious research has ever been published in this area. In the present study I examine the features of chirimen. I began by directly interviewing kimono wholesalers, kimono stores and Western-style clothing stores on the subject of chirimen in order to establish a clear image of this fabric. I then went on to examine the subject experimentally in terms of the physical properties of the fabric in connection with the features of this image. In the study of the physical properties of the material, I selected habutae as a silk fabric to offer comparisons with chirimen. Habutae is used frequently together with chirimen in garments such as semi-formal visiting kimono (homongi), kimono in non-color fabric (ironashiji), mouming kimono (mofuku), broad-sleeved kimono (tomesode and furisode), and undergarments such ad juban.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권3호
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• pp.431-439
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• 2014

This research verified the usefulness and practicality of citrus peel extract as a natural dye. This study dyed cotton, silk, and cotton/mulberry fiber blended fabrics using citrus peel extract, and measured the dyeability and functional property to verify their usefulness and practicality. The dyeing affinity of the citrus peel extract was measured by dyeing under alkaline conditions to determine the temperature and time for optimal dyeing conditions of the solution. The results show that a temperature and time of $60^{\circ}C$ and 30 minutes were optimal for dyeing cotton fabrics with citrus peel extract, $50^{\circ}C$ and 60 minutes for silk fabrics, and $60^{\circ}C$ and 60 minutes for cotton/mulberry fiber blended fabrics, respectively. In addition the results of measuring the color fastness of the cotton, silk, and cotton/mulberry fiber blended fabrics dyed with the citrus peel extract show that the color fastness was superior for washing, friction, sweat, and water. However, the color fastness for sunlight appeared to be slightly weak. In addition, it was found that fabric dyed with the citrus peel extract showed partial antimicrobial properties. The antimicrobial property appeared the greatest in the silk fabric. The cotton/mulberry fiber blended fabrics had 90% or more Staphylococcus aureus present, but the antimicrobial properties were not high in the cotton fabric. Additionally, the heavy metal content, which is harmful to the human body, appeared to be lower than standard figures, so the dye was found to be innocuous to humans. Therefore, when the results of this study are put together, citrus peel extract is sufficiently useful and practical as an ingredient for a natural dye. Moreover, there is ample possibility to develop citrus peel dyed fabrics as environmentally friendly fashion materials.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권2호
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• pp.256-265
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to check color change, color fastness, increase wt., antibiosis, and UV-protection efficiency depending on gallnut concentrations and mordanting methods, when silk fabrics dye with gromwell according to pH. This results will contribute in developing of natural mordant with multi function. The results are as follows. ${\lambda}_{max}$ of Gallnut extracts was near 299 nm. When gallnut was used as a mordant, at all pH levels, pre-mordanted fabrics had red color and post-mordanted ones had red-purple color which was closed to natural color of gromwell. Brightness of post-mordanted fabrics was higher than that of pre-mordanted fabrics. In the case of chroma, pre-mordanted fabrics was higher than post-mordanted fabrics. There was no significant difference of color, brightness, and chroma depending on gallnut concentration. As mordanting concentration increased, fabric weight gradually went up and increase weight reached maximum $17{\sim}19%$. At all pH levels, color fastness improved by pre-mordanting and post-mordanting, and it showed the maximum $4{\sim}5$ grade of wet fastness and 5 grade of dry cleaning. Antibiosis of silk fabric was improved by gromwell dyeing and synthetic tannin mordanting. Antibiosis of gallnut extracts was excellent. The color fastness and antibiosis were preserved after 10 cycle dry cleaning. UV-protection efficiency was excellent by dyeing with gromwell and mordanting with gallnut.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제22권3호
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• pp.194-206
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• 2010

This study was carried out to identify the optimum dyeing conditions for maximum dye uptake of Prunus yedoensis Matsumura flower extract on silk fabric and to investigate hue/tone characteristics and fastness properties of the dyed fabrics. As results, the flower extract was found to contain flavonoids by FT-IR and to show yellowish shade by UV-vis spectrum. Silk fabric was optimized for maximum dye uptake to five repetitions of dyeing at $80^{\circ}C$ for 60 min with an extract concentration of 600% owf in terms of both K/S and color differences. Pre-mordanting was more effective to dye uptake than post-mordanting for all of the mordants used. Un-mordanted and pre-mordanted fabric showed YR(Yellow Red) while most of post-mordanted ones did Y(Yellow). Main tones of dyed fabrics were sf(soft) and lt(light) in the case of unmordanting or Al-mordanting whereas they were d(dull) and g(grayish) by post-mordanting with Cu, Cr, and Fe, respectively. The fastness grades to rub and dry cleaning were reasonably good for most dyeing conditions while those to light were poor. Finally dyeing condition for each hue/tone of the dyed silk with the flower extract was optimized considering fastness properties.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권4호
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• pp.506-513
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• 2013

Rubia cordifolia L (Indian madder) contains red color purpurin (65-67%) and yellow color munjistin (10-12%) as well as nordamncanthal (9-10%). Purpurin is a traditional red dye. The purpose of this research is to increase the dyeability of silk and light fastness of dyed silk fabric. We dyed silk fabrics after pretreatment to remove the yellow component of madder using various solvents such as ethyl acetate, ethanol, methanol, chloroform, and acetone. The total K/S value was the highest in the case of chloroform and reflectance was the lowest at the red color region from 470nm to 530nm. Chloroform dissolved the yellow color of Rubia cordifolia; in addition, we found that the total K/S value increased and the ${\Delta}E$ value decreased by chloroform pretreatment for silk dyeing.