• 복식문화연구
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.1-14
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• 1996

The purpose of the study is to analyze the dresses appeared in Nogultai. In the analysis of this study names and kinds of fabrics, colors, motifs, places of production and names of dresses were examined. In the study various kinds of fabric colors and motifs of fabrics were appeared in Nogulta. Also a variety of silks such s brocade, damask, plain silks, ra, silk gauze, hemp cloth, cotton cloth, wool and fur were found. Colors of fabrics were of blue, green, indigo blue, red, light blue, brown, yellow, black and white were described. Mostly cleouds, flowers and mixtures of floral designs were used in silk brocades, Walrus was motif the only animal revealed in silk brocade. Nanching, Hanchaw, Suchaw were famous production centers of silk damasks, silk gauge and silk ra. Also Shantung and Suchaw produced good quality plain silk. Various kinds of coats, waded coat, wadded short coat, inner jackets, vest trousers, winter cap were included. Also accessories such as belt, cap, boots, socks, money belt, pouch were described. In addition, cosmetics, cosmetic kits and names of semi precious stones were mentioned. Seasonal garments differed according to kinds of fabrics and materials used. Wadded coat, wadded short coat, vest, winter cap and wool socks appeared as winter wear.

• Current Research on Agriculture and Life Sciences
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• 제26권
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• pp.23-30
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• 2008

Pad-dry-cure 방식으로 ethylene cyanohydrin을 이용하여 견직물을 acrylonitrile화 시킬 때 건조 시간, curing 온도 및 시간, ethylene cyanohydrin 처리 농도, $ZnCl_2$ 처리 농도 등 조건 변화에 따른 변화와 반응양식을 규명하고자 하였다. 가공된 견직물의 FT-IR과 DSC 분석을 통하여 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. Curing을 $150^{\circ}C$에서 2분, ethylene cyanohydrin 처리 농도 5%, $ZnCl_2$ 처리농도 0.1%, 건조 온도를 $80^{\circ}C$로 하여 건조 시간 경과에 따른 견직물의 FT-IR 분석 결과, 건조 시간 경과에 따라 -OH($3,450cm^{-1}$) 특성 peak가 전부 장파장 쪽으로 shift 되어 나타났고, random coil에 의한 amide peak($1,663cm^{-1}$)는 단파장 쪽으로 shift되어 ${\beta}$-sheet peak($1,635cm^{-1}$)와 중복되어 나타났다. 건조를 $80^{\circ}C$에서 3분, curing을 $110^{\circ}C$에서 2.5분, $ZnCl_2$ 농도를 0.1%로 하여 ethylene cyanohydrin 처리 농도에 따른 가공 견직물의 FT-IR 분석에서 -OH ($3,450cm^{-1}$) 특성 peak에서 변화가 나타나 견직물의 -OH기가 반응에 관여하고 있는 것을 알 수 있었다. 위와 같은 조건으로 가공된 견직물의 DSC 분석에서 ethylene cyanohydrin 처리에 의해 견직물의 열분해 온도는 무처리의 $311^{\circ}C$에서 대략 $320^{\circ}C$로 상승하는 것으로 나타났다. 건조를 $80^{\circ}C$에서 3분, curing을 $110^{\circ}C$에서 2.5분, ethylene cyanohydrin 처리농도 5%로 하여 $ZnCl_2$ 처리 농도에 따른 가공 견직물의 FT-IR 분석에서는 촉매 처리농도 0.8%일 경우를 제외하고는 -OH($3,450cm^{-1}$) 특성 peak에서 대부분 무처리와 비슷한 결과를 보여 주고 있으나, 0.8%의 경우에는 peak에 큰 변화를 나타냈다. 같은 조건에서 가공된 견직물의 DSC 분석에서, ethylene cyanohydrin 처리에 의해 견직물의 열분해 온도는 촉매농도와는 관계없이 무처리($311^{\circ}C$)에 비해 가공 견직물(대략 $320^{\circ}C$)의 열분해 온도가 상승됨을 알 수 있었다. 건조를 $80^{\circ}C$에서 70초, ethylene cyanohydrin 처리농도 5%, $ZnCl_2$ 처리농도 0.8%, Curing 시간을 2.5분으로 하고 curing 온도를 각각 110, 120, 130, 140, 150, $160^{\circ}C$로 변화시켜 가공한 견직물의 FT-IR의 분석 결과, curing 온도 110, 150, $160^{\circ}C$에서 -OH특성 peak의 변화가 크게 나타났다. 같은 조건으로 가공한 견직물의 DSC 분석에서는 ethylene cyanohydrin 처리에 의한 견직물의 열분해 온도는 curing 온도에 상관없이 미처리구($311^{\circ}C$)에 비해 전부 열분해 온도(대략 $320^{\circ}C$)가 상승함을 알 수 있었다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.79-88
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• 1987

In order to investigate the hand values and mechanical properties such as tensile, shearing, bending, compression, surface and thickness & weight of the women's summer fabrics were measured by KES-F system. Sorts of 78 commercial fabrics of women's summer cloth were classfied into 43 silk and 35 polyester fabrics according to materials. The experimental results were analysed statistically to relate the hand values and the mechanical properties and concerning to formation of weared clothes and transformation behavior were investigated. The main results are summarized as follows; 1. Polyester fabrics show higher tensile deformation than those of silk fabric. And also polyster fabric has a easy to shape-less and makes a silhouette which goes along with the body. 2. Silk fabrics is superior to polyester fabrics in formation and shear elasticity building box-shaped silhouette. 3. Polyester fabrics show sufficient ability to recover from tending deformation and drapability On the other hand, the compressibility and bending rigidity of silk fabrics were superior to polyester fabrics. 4. Regardless of materials, the bending properties is closely assocsiated with stiffness, anti-drape stiffness and flexibility with soft feeling. Fullness & softness and crispness is primarily influenced by surface properties. There is substantive relationship between scrooping and sheaing properties.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.124-132
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• 2002

Dyeing properties of silk fabric on gromwell roof colorants were studied for the effect of dyeing conditions, such as methanol ratio, colorants concentration, pH, temperature and time etc. on the dye uptake and effect of mordants and mordanting methods on color change and dye uptake. And various colorfastnesses of dyed fabrics were evaluated far practical use. Gromwell colorants showed high affinity to silk and its isotherm adsorption curve was Freundlich type close to Nernst type. Therefore, it is considered that hydrogen bonding and Van der Waals force were involved in the adsorption of cromwell colorants to silk fabric. Post-mordanting method gave higher K/S value than other methods, but it was not significantly different color values from unmordanted one. Gromwell colorants produced mainly R and RP color depending on mordants and mordanting method. Dyed fabrics showed high colorfastness irrespective of mordanting treatment. Light colorfastness was increased for repeatedly dyed and Fe mordanted dyed fabrics.

• 박물관보존과학
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• 제8권
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• pp.71-79
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• 2007

국립중앙박물관 보존과학팀에서는 역사관 한글실의 전시유물 교체에 활용하기 위해 봉인사(奉印寺) 부도탑신(浮屠塔身)에서 발견된 사리공(舍利孔)을 싸고 있었던 보자기인 사리기비단보자기(신수9431)에 대한 복제를 진행하였다. 바탕직물은 유물과 동일한 제직의 명주를 사용하였다. 푸른색을 내기 위해 쪽 앙금을 발효시켜 만든 쪽물, 누렇게 변색된 부분을 위해 오리나무열매로 식물염색하였고 묵서된 한글궁체는 먹으로 모사하였다.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.114-119
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• 2001

Four kinds of neutral sodium salts with different anions, NaF, NaCl, NaBr, and NaI, were added to the dye bath to accurately understand the effect of anions on the reactive dyeing of silk with C. I. Reactive Black 5. The sodium cation towered the negative surface potential of the silk and increased the dye-uptake on fille fabric as reported previously. However, because of the discrepancy in the anions'inhibition power from cation's lowering: the surface negative potential the amount of the dye on the silk fiber was different from each other in the order of $F^->Cl^-> Br^-I^-$. The activation energy(E$_{a}$) lot the dyeing was in the order of $F^->Cl^-> Br^-I^-$ but the dye-uptake on the fabric and the activation free energy$(\Delta{G}^*)$, the real energy barrier fort the reaction, were in the order of $F^->Cl^-> Br^-I^-$ because the strength of the interaction of the anions with sodium cations was the salute as the order of the latter. In other words F$^{[-1000]}$ exerted the weakest electrostatic force on $Na^+$ and competed with the dyestuff anions least of all. The decrease in $\Delta{S}^*$ may be due to the looesly bonded activated complex of dyestuff anions, sodium cations and fiber molecules at transition state. It was clarified from the Brёnsted equation that sodium salts with different anions also had fille ionic strength effect and the specific salt effect on the reactive dyeing.g.

• 한국작물학회지
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• 제58권2호
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• pp.113-118
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• 2013

본 연구는 자색 옥수수 부산물인 옥수수 줄기와 잎을 이용하여 염액을 추출하여 여러 가지 염색 조건에서 염색정도를 관찰하고 자색옥수수 부산물의 염료로서의 가능성을 타진하여 이용성 증진을 위한 기초자료를 제공하고자 실시하였다. 1. 자색 옥수수 추출시 pH에 따른 흡광도의 변화가 없으므로 자색 옥수수 색소 함량을 측정하기 위하여 UV 흡광도를 측정할 때 520~560 nm를 이용하는 것이 효율적일 것으로 생각된다. 2. 자색 옥수수 잎 추출물로 염색한 silk와 cotton은 pH가 높아질수록 직물의 밝기와 적색도가 낮아졌다. 줄기 추출물의 경우에는 뚜렷한 경향을 나타내지는 않았지만 pH 값이 높아질수록 밝기와 적색도가 높아지는 경향을 나타내었다. 3. 농도에 따른 직물의 염색 정도는 silk와 cotton 모두 농도가 높아질수록 밝기는 낮아지고 적색도는 증가하는 경향을 나타내었다. 4. Silk와 cotton은 일반적으로 염색시간이 길어질수록 명도가 증가하고, 적색도는 감소하는 경향을 나타내었다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.73-84
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate the natural dyeability on extract of Aloe Vera princeps. The experimental items were divided into the mordanting method, component of fabric, extracting portion, and kind of mordants. The experimental study was done to by laundering, abrasion(dry/wet), perspiration(acid/alkali), light fastness test and color difference by C.C.M system. The summerized finding resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows: First, in the C.C.M test on mordanting method, color difference was significantly improved when mordants were treatmented. And the premordanting method showed the highest color difference. Second, in the C.C.M test on component of fabric, color difference of silk was higher than cotton. It was considered that silk has -$\NH_2$, -COOH, -OH more than cotton. Third, in the C.C.M Test on extracting portion, color difference of extracting in skin of Aloe leaf was three times higher than that of inside lump. Forth, in dyeing-fastness on mordants, laundering fastness showed 3 ~ 4 grade nearly. In perspiration-fastness(acid/alkali), Al(4~5/4~5) was the highest. In abrasion-fastness(dry/wet), cotton(4~5/4~5) was higher than silk (4~5/4) in all mordants. In light-fastness, silk(2~5) was higher than cotton(1~2) generally and especially Cu mordant of silk(4~5) was the highest. Sixth, in color difference analysis on 7 mordants Cu(29.9), Fe(28.7) and Cr(28.9) showed the highest in silk. And Cu(12.7), Fe(10.42) and Sn(10.43) showed the highest in cotton and Al(23.6, 8.0) showed the lowest in silk and cotton.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제38권2호
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• pp.175-179
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• 1996

천연염료의 염재중 적색 색상을 발현하기 위하여 소목에 의한 견 및 모시직물의 염색에 있어서 염색조건과 매염제 종류에 따라 염색직물의 색채변화, 염착농도(K/S) 및 염색견뇌도를 측정한 결과는 다음과 같다. 1. 소목량에 따라 염색한 견과 모시직물의 색채변화는 다소 있는 것으로 나타났으며, 염착농도는 약 15g/l 소목량이 사용된 경우가 적당하였다. 2. 염색액의 pH별 견직물에 대한 염착농도(K/S)는 pH 3.5~6.5 범위내에서는 큰 차이가 없었으나, 모시 직물은 pH가 높을수록 염착농도(K/S)가 증가하였다. 3. 염색온도 30~9$0^{\circ}C$에서의 염착농도를 비교하여 보면 견 및 모시직물 모두 9$0^{\circ}C$에서 가장 높았다. 4. 매염재 처리 염색으로 견 및 모시 직물에 다른 색채의 발현이 가능하였으며, 염색견뇌도를 다소 향상시킬 수 있었다.

• 복식
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• 제59권8호
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• pp.132-151
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• 2009

All of 132 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the Dongrae Jung's Tomb. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 58 pieces of silk tabby 43.9%, 2 of filament silk tabby 1.5%, 14 of thin filament silk tabby 10.6%, 19 of spun yarn silk 14.4%, 4 of twill without a pattern 3.0%, 8 of patterned silk tabby 6.1%, 23 of satin damask 17.4%, 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread 0.8%, 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton 1.5%, and 1 of ramie fabric 0.8%. Classified by ways of weaving: 96 pieces of plain weave 73%, 23 of satin weave 17%, 8 of patterned silk tabby consisting of plain weave material and twill weave pattern-6%, 4 of twill weave 3%, and 1 of compound weave 1 %. In point of patterns, the most often used ones are plant patterns such as lotus patterns, peony patterns, plum blossom patterns, flowers representing seasons patterns, and small flower patterns. For animal patterns, it has phoenix patterns designed together with flowers representing seasons patterns. And for natural scenery patterns, it shows cloud patterns with treasures patterns together. For object patterns, it also shows treasures patterns mixed with cloud or lotus together. For geometrical patterns, it has rhomboid patterns and 卍 character patterns; some show only rhomboid patterns and others show material patterns of 卍 character patterns blended together with fruit, lotus, etc.