• 복식
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• 제58권3호
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• pp.105-115
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• 2008

A Go-go-kwan is a particular hat which has worn by married woman in Mongol and Yuan dynasty in China. It is also widely called as a Boktak in Mongol. The Go-go-kwan, recorded in jip-sa and in the miniature painting of 14th century is the early type of go-go-kwan. Later type can be seen from the relic collections of Gyeonggi Provincial Museum in Korea. The Go-go-kwan is composed with three parts ; feather part, tube part and hat part. Among the feathers, the largest one is as long as four times of the length of the tube and the shortest one is half the length of the tube. The tube is made of light weight wood such as white birch or bamboo, and covered with silk. Some of the hats were made exactly to fit on the head whereas others were designed to wear on the head as like jobawi.

• 복식
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• 제32권
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• pp.31-43
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• 1997

The costumes on a royal ceremony and the changes thereafter during the Korea Empire(1897-1910) have been elucidated through the review on the paintings on Queen Myong-Hun's 70th birthday celebration and the prospectus of the ceremony. Queen Myong-Hyn wore ceremonial gown in deep blue with 51 embroidered phoenix on it. The deep blue color the royal color in the Korea Empire replaced former red color. Go-jong wore violet crown and ceremonial suit in gold color. Twenty one kinds of court dance were offered during the celebration ceremony. Costumes therein appear to have an order according to the role ofdancers. most female dancers(in 17 performances not else-where specified) wore a rather common cos-tume-flower cap outer silk garent in green hand veils in 5 colors silk skirt in red) embroidered silk belt in red and shoes in green. In Sun-you-ak two female lead dancers were red hat decorated with tiger whisker deep blue outer garment wide red belt silk boots in black bow and arrows on back and a sword and a whip in hands. In Choonaang-jon a fe-male solo dancer wore a silk outer garment in yellow silk skirt in red green lorum embroidered silk belt in red wrist band of gold embroidered red silk and 5 color hand veils. In Yon-wha-dae two young girl dancers wore lotus-form crown green outer garment wide pants in red silk red silk skirt red silk belt hand veils in jade color and silk shoes in deep red. In Moo-go 4 female dancers each wore long waist coat in blue red white and warm light green in addition to the above-mentioned common costume. In Gumkee-moo 4 female dancers wore hatlike wool helmet outer garment with narrow sleeve long silk waist coat in blue combat belt in deep blue silk and dance swords in both hands. In Youk-wha-dae 6 female dancers each wore a long waist cost in red deep blue violet pale pink green and jade color. Green color of outer garment in the above-mentioned common costume of female dancers appears intersting. Although the color was shown as yellow in the screen paintings actually it was green as evidenced by the prospectus of the celeebration ceremony.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권3_4호
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• pp.364-372
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• 2003

In this study, the characteristics of catechol tannin and pyrogallol tannin contained in Pteridium aquilinum were analysed by It spectrum. Silk fabrics were dyed with Pteridium aquilinum extracts using various mordants, and their dyeing properties were discussed. Additionally the fastness the water digestion, perspiration liquid digestion and light irradiation were investigated. IR spectrum of catechol tannin showed bands of O-H at $3417cm^{-1}$, C-H at $2930cm^{-1}$, C=0 at $1722cm^{-1}$, C=C at $1644cm^{-1},\;CH_2\;at\;1402cm^{-1}$. And IR spectrum of pyrogallol tannin showed bands of O-H at $3409cm^{-1}$, C-H at $3003cm^{-1}\;and\;2933cm^{-11}$, C=0 at $1701cm^{-1}$, C=C at $1582cm^{-11},\;CH_2\;at\;1410cm^{-1}$, CO at carboxylic acid and carboxylic acid ester at $1287cm^{-1}\;and\;1135cm^{-1}$. The maximum absorption wavelength of the extracts appeared at 270.0nm and 311.5nm. The optimum conditions for dyeing silk fabric with Pteridium aquilinum extracts were $80^{\circ}C$, 60min. Surface color of the silk fabric dyed with Pteridium aquilinum extracts was 2.7Y Surface color of the pre-mordanted fabrics with Al, Cu and Fe were 4.3Y, 2.5Y and 4.7Y, respectively. And Surface color of the post-mordanted fabrics with Al, Cu and Fe were 3.7Y, 2.8Y and 0.2GY. The water fastness and the alkaline perspiration fastness were improved in the Al-mordanted silk fabrics. By acidic and alkaline perspiration treatment, ${\Delta}E of the unmordanted fabrics was lower than hat of pre- and post- mordanted fabrics. Also after 40hour irradiation, ${\Delta}E of the unmordanted fabrics was lower than that of pre- and post- mordanted fabrics.

• 복식
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• 제24권
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• pp.103-120
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• 1995

The Xinjiang Uighur Autonomous Region to from the most of Eastern turkistan is located at North-wetern part of China, and it is the center to form the famous silk-road historically. In th exinjiang Uighur Autonomous Region there are 47 nationalities. In this study, the researcher studied the historical background, and the traditional culture about dress sand ornaments of 4 nationalities (that is Uighur, Kazakh, Kirgiz and Tajik). The results of the present study are as follows : In the basic structure of traditional costume by races, there is not big difference. Then , in men , the trousers and the shirts of funic type become the basis with the style which is convenient to act. And , to wear vest , or jacket , or chanban, over it makes a little difference . In women also, same structure shows with the form to wear vest or outerwear, on the basis of one piece. But , in a small hat, heat wear, color contrast, and decoration element etc. , strict difference is showing. After all, they show very similar clothing life culture basically in natural environment, religion , and life habit etc. But, the discrimination is made in the detailed side. So , it can be said that they show the conservative nature of nationalities, and have preserved the unigue identity of their own culture.

• 복식
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• 제24권
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• pp.83-101
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• 1995

The purpose of this study is to investigate relation between kucha and Korea by comparing costume. The results are as follows. First, During 508th century, wall paintings of Kizil and Kuizilkargha showed traditional costume such as cutting hair , lapel coller and fitting sleeve coat, pants, boots , belts and knife. Kumtura were also in 6 th, but under the influence of China and Hoehol (회골) after 7th. Second, Men and women cutting hair except king, they put on cone shaped hat and Kun (건), clothing were made of felt and kun(면). Third, it was influenced by Iran that cutting hair in Silla (신라) and Kucha. In Silla , round neckline and V neckline were existed except lapel collar. Jeweled knife of Silla and Kuncha , pattern of Kumdonglee(금동복) showed cultural exchange of centural Asia and Korea along the Silk Rood. It is conscious that Silla preferred centural asia of texture and jewels by prohibition of costume.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.124-130
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• 2001

It is said that the highlights of Naadam festival, the biggest festival of the year in Mongolia, are three athletic contests: wrestling, horse racing, and archery, where contestants display their courage, strength, dexterity, and marksmanship. This paper explores the characteristics of the uniforms worn in such athletic events The findings are as follows. First, wrestlers' costume is completely unique in that it consists of shuudag, snug shorts, zodog, a jacket with sleeves but with no front, a traditional hat, and gutul, traditional boots. The main material used in the costume is several pieces of embroidered red or blue silk. Second, horse riders, usually young children lighter than the adults in weight, wear a bright, colorful, and comfortable uniform of a simple jacket and a pants. Third, archers' mostly put on their traditional costume, deel and hats. The hats are of two kinds: the traditional ones or the European-style ones for men, which were introduced around 1930s.

• 복식
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• 제60권2호
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• pp.20-34
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• 2010

This study is intended to suggest the characteristic of dress and its ornament introduced in terms of naturalized words on Korean newspapers and magazines published from the age of enlightenment to the Independence(1876-1945). First of all, naturalized words in that period(1876-1945) can be classified into words originated in Japanese, words originated in western countries and borrowed words came from Japan. Borrowed words which came from Japan are almost related to Japan's traditional dress like Gudu, Gabang, Kimono, Nemaki, Ebijahagama, Hagama, Sirusibanden, Doriachi, Dombi, Sarumada, Sseumeeri, Doriachi, and Mombbe. Borrowed words originated in western countries are like Frock coat, Bonnet, Necktie, Chapeau, Scotch, Homespun, Chamois, Skirt, Spring Coat, Ribbon, Silk hat, Panama hat, Handbag, Pajama, Shawl, Apron, Cuffs, Pocket, Handkerchief, Morning coat, Combination-one piece, Rain Coat, Burberry, and Permanent, etc. Borrowed words came from Japan is Lasa[raxa], jokki[jaket], Les[lace], Veludo[velvet], Bbanss[pants], Oba[overcoat], Meliyas[medias], Shass[shirt], Manto[manteau], and Sebiro[civil clothes]. As we can see from the result of research, borrowed words from the age of enlightenment to the Independence was because of its special social situation, Japanese imperialism, they are divided into real western words and words came from Japan or Japanese. In terms of items, a lot of words related to men's suit and women's dress, accessory, etc. It confirms that men's dress was westernized in the whole part compared to partially westernized women's one. A lot of words used at that period are now adapted to Korean language and became the foundation of words used in the current dress and its ornament area.

• 복식
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• 제52권7호
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• pp.167-177
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• 2002

This study revolves around the costume of the Naadam festival worn in the opening ceremony. during competition and the costume of the public. their purpose are two fold. First they are to be the main reference for the diverse Mongolian costumes that have been researched. Secondly, they will help us understand better the culture that revolves around Mongolian costumes. The results are as follows : 1) The opening ceremony costume, The opening ceremony starts with a procession of soldiers with 9 flags. The flags are made from the hairs of white horses and they signify peace and tranquility, ever since the beginning of Chinggis Khans time. The costumes resemble a European military uniform 2) The costumes for competition. $\circled1$ Wrestlers' costume comprises of a jacket with sleeves but no front and shorty shorts of red or blue colored silk, a traditional hat and traditional boots. $\circled2$ Archers' costume comprises of their traditional costume, deel, hat and boots. $\circled3$ Horse riders who are usually children wear a comfortable and simple jacket and pants. 3) The costume of the public : The general public that attended the festival were dressed in a western fashion but differ according to different age groups $\circled1$ The costumes of the younger Mongolian : The majority of the men wore traditional costumes that were appropriate to the festival, the women did not as they were more prone to the influence of fads of western cultures and dressed in a more daring fashion. In addition. the children also dressed in a more modem western fashion. $\circled2$ The costumes of the elderly Mongolian : The elderly, oblivious of whatever season it was, were dressed in a more traditional fashion which is the deel.

• 복식
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• 제52권6호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2002

This paper investigated the costumes of young girl dancers in Yon wha dae moo(연화대무: Lotus Stage dance) which were documented on the Ak-hak-guae-bum(악학궤범: Protocol of music) and the Jin-yeon-eui-guae(진연의궤: Archives of Royal Feast). The fashion of the costumes can be changed into three phases, based mainly on the changes of Hap-rip(합립: silk hat), Dan-eui(단의: long jacket) and Sang(상: apron type skirt). In the first phase the costume consisted of Hap-rip, round neck-line Dan-eui and tiered skirt decorated with pleat and Yu-so(유소: decorated cords). In the second phase. it consisted of Hap-rip, v-shape neck-line Dan-eui and skirt without pleat. In the third phase, it consisted of Yeon-wha-gwan(연화관: Lotus shape cap), round neck-line Dan-eui of later era and skirt with pleat and Yu-so. Yon-wha-dae dance appears to be adopted from Ja-ji-mu( 자지무: chinese dance) that originated in West and Central Asia. In both dances. young girl dancers danced mainly jump and spin. The costume of round neck-line Dan-eui seems to have been affected by the fashion in Dang Dynasty when young girls loved to wear Dan-ryung(단령: male coat with round neckline). And it satisfied the need of mobility for the dance which was Performed mainly with jump.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.105-114
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• 2001

The result of this study is on textile expressed in the costume of the Kazakh tribe, Kirgiz tribe, Tajik tribe. Basically the material of costume is fur, cotton flannel, felt, silk, cotton outwear, velvet cloth and beads, silver, earing, bracelet is used frequently. The tribes did embroider on the shoes, made of sheepskin or calfskin and collar, belt, button, pocket with the sketch of national trait. Eventually their cultures of costume seem to be very similar because of the resemblances in circumstance of nature, religion, custom of life but definitely they show conservatism in itself and independent culture. In the basic structure of traditional costume by races, there is no big difference. Then, in men, the trousers and the shirts of tunic type become the basic with the style which is convenient to act. And, to wear vest, or jacket, or chaban, over it makes a little difference. In women also, same structure shows with the form to wear vest or outwear, on the basis of one piece. But, in a small hat, head wear, color contrast, and decoration element etc., strict difference is showing. After all, they show very similar clothing life culture basically in natural environment, religion, and life habit etc., But, the discrimination is made in the detailed side. So, it can be said that they show the conservative nature of nationalities, and have preserved the unique identity of their own culture.