• Journal of Power System Engineering
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.61-66
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• 2011

Recently, the speed reducer which is applied to robot has conducted a steady development on developments in the field of robotics. Among them, Harmonic drive is a high-stiffness, precision-controlled speed reducer and has high precision, compact, light in weight and high-reduction-ratio characteristics. The feature of flexspline of Harmonic Drive are two types. One is Cup type, the other is Silk Hat type. Silk Hat type is used in case of lighter and more compact in spatial because Silk Hat Type is hollow. According to the shape of silk hat, diaphragm is fractured because stress is concentrated. In this paper, the various shapes of silk hat are suggested to improve the durability of silk hat. And in the case of each shape, a study on stress and deformation using the FEM tool was carried out on flexspline.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.9
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• pp.84-96
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• 2011

This paper investigates the formative features and the historical meaning of the Korean dress collection held in the Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology in Cambridge. The Museum holds a total of eleven items of koran dresses that were donated by two anthropologists in the first half of the twentieth century. Male dresses consist of a white cotton jacket (Jeogori), a under-vest (Deungbaeja) made of light wisteria rings, a headband (Manggeon) made of horsehair, a broad brimmed top hat (Gat) made of black horsehair gauze, an oilskin cover (Galmo) drawn over the hat in wet weather, and a hemispherical hat box (Gatjib). Female dresses comprise a pink silk jacket (Jeogori), a blue silk skirt (Chima) with pleats, a pair of woman's white cotton trousers (Sokgot), a black silk cap (Jobawi) decorated with pink tassels and imitation pearls, and a pair of green and magenta silk shoes (Danghye) with leather soles and metal rivets. Theses Korean dresses show what the western anthropologists had interests in. When collectors collect the folk objects, they thought much of the specificity of shape and material, the esthetic appreciation, and the representation of daily life. In terms of the value as the historical materials in the history of Korean dress, the under-vest of wisteria, the hat box, and the female dresses are worth paying attention to. The under-vest is one that was produced in earlier time among the remaining under-vests. The hat box represents that the hat belonged to the merchant classes. The female dress items show daily dresses worn by women of higher classes of the society in the 1920s.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.3
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• pp.29-36
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• 2001

The hat excavated from the tomb of Hojeo-myon Wonsung-gun in Kangwon province was dry-cleaned and restored. The hat was made of wool felt and decorated with several strands of silk cord. It was very dirty and moth-eaten. After getting rid of the particle soils on a surface with painting brush, the hat was dry-cleaned using perchloroethylene applying the minimum force, and blotting paper was used for drying. During cleaning, it was supported by the stainless steel net. The weight loss was 7.94% after cleaning. The soils sticked on the hat was removed clearly. The texture of the hat became softer after cleaning. Color difference(∆E) was 2.57, which is a noticeable change. The color became clear and changed to the red and yellow range. After dry-cleaning, the hat was repaired. Dislocated silk cords were fixed to the right place by stitching with silk yarn. To keep the shape of the hat, it should be supported by a hat-shaped stiff net during exibition and storing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.187-206
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• 1996

The Purpose of this study is to analyze the clothing excavated in Xinjinag, concerned with the study of clothing culture in Central Asia. The results are as follows : A headwear is a corn hat or round hat, the material is field, fur or woolen textiles. For hair accessories, feathers or wooden pins were used. The corn hats of the Scythians and the Huns also had same design and did not change even after being influenced from the culture of Han Dynasty. A woman's hair styles was many strips of braid, a man's hair style was a braid or a topknot. Regarding the clothing, a woman wore pull-over type and a man wore caftan for a jacket. Both a man and a woman wore widened coat and trousers as well as felt socks and leather boots, and longer socks than boots are the characteristics of the clothing of nomadic horsemen. The textiles was mainly wool, but silk was used for coats, socks and gloves in high society imported from China through the Silk Road after the 2nd century B.C. Compared with Korea clothing, a corn hat, widened coat, trousers and leather boots are similar with those of Koguryo. The influence of western culture is shown in a man's short hair, animal design, W1-Kum, a woman's pull-over type and a round neckline.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.116-125
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• 2004

In the history of western costume, women's hairstyle and headdress have been fluently studied but men's headgear has not. To study and manufacture headgear designs and details, which indicate varieties in forms and ornaments, can be utilized for the fashion currently in vogue. Purpose: the purpose of the study is to investigate one of the headgear, the hat in terms of shift in design and manufacturing method, and to study through manufacturing in order to do a literature review by era and to provide information as the source in new design. Study method and scope: Like previously manufactured and presented bonnet of women's headdress or headgear, the hat in the study was manufactured on the basis of literature review and portrait analysis. Target era is from the late 16th century to the early 17th century when the hat was used. The hat to be manufactured was selected by investigating the details such as hair style and hat features using literature. The pattern of the selected hat was analyzed, and velvet, silk, and wool were used as the materials as in the literature. Ornaments used similar things as in the photos.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.129-132
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• 2012

Silk fibroin films incorporated with tetracycline was prepared and characterized by Fourier-transform infrared spectrometer and differential scanning calorimeter and examined antibacterial effect. The conformation of silk fibroin was changed from random coil to $\hat{a}$ sheet structure with incorporation of tetracycline. Antibacterial activity of the materials was evaluated against Gram-negative bacteria (Escherichia coli) and Gram-positive bacteria (Staphylococcus epidermis, and Staphylococcus aures) using agar plate method showing clear inhibition zone around tetracycline silk film. It is concluded that tetracycline-incorporated SF films are highly effective against bacteria.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.2
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• pp.150-162
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• 2014

This study examined the excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong(1753~1810) in Jecheon which were excavated in 2012. Lady Sim died at the age of 57 and the excavated relics belonged to the 18th and 19th centuries. The excavated relics consisted of 9 pieces of three-kind-clothes. They showed various qualities such as Plain-Silk, Plaited-Silk, Patterned Twill, Plain Twill, Plain Satin, and Satin Damask. Through comparing them with the other excavated clothes of the 18th and 19th centuries, we can comprehend the periodical changes of the excavated Jegori and Yeomo (the hat for a dead woman). The excavated Jegori shows the difference of length and form from the other Jegori of the 18th century. The total length of the excavated Jegori ranged from 24 cm to 25 cm, which is 10 cm shorter than that of the other Jegori of the 18th century. The excavated hat for a dead woman shows the changes of the form and needlework. The form of a rectangular cover was changed into that of a round shape. In regards to the sewing composition, the way of inserting the cover into Mosin(the body of the hat for a dead woman) was replaced by that of connecting the cover into Mosin. The excavated clothes show three kinds of textile fabrics: plain silk fabrics and plaited silk, plain twill and four-leaf-patterned twill, eight-leaf-plain satin of life-lettered textile and five-leaf satin damask, and plain satin. Especially, the combination of eight-leaf satin and four-leaf twill with mixed textile is considered as a fabric of high quality. The excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong showed a periodical change which was different from the clothes of the 18th century in terms of the formal composition of Jegori and Yeomo. Regarding Women's Jegori a short length and slim and long sleeves are changed into short and tight Jegori, which signaled the specific change of Jegori aesthetics. The significance of the excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong lies in its role as the bases for understanding the couture culture of the 19th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.99-111
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• 2012

This paper investigates the formative features and the historical meaning of the Korean dress collection held in the Horniman Museum in London. The Museum holds eighteen items of Korean dresses donated by Mrs. C. de J. Luxmore in 1948 and by Mrs. Bowra in 1953. Male dresses consist of white silk outer robe (durumagi), a pale violet silk waistcoat (jokki), a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), pale yellow silk trousers (baji), a pair of ankle bands (daenim), a cotton waistband (dae), a silk purse (jumeoni), a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja), a pair of rattan wristlets (deungtosi), a top hat (gat) and a skullcap (tanggeon). Female dresses comprise a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), an ivory silk skirt (chima), a light blue silk petticoat (sokchima), two kinds of white cotton trousers (sokbaji and soksokgot), a pair of silk wristlets (tosi) and a pair of padded socks (beoseon). A Korean dress collection of the Horniman Museum shows a set of ordinary dress items worn by a married couple in the 1930s and the 1940s. Of these items, a silk petticoat (sokchima) and a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja) can be highly evaluated as object resources in the history of Korean dress. The petticoat is a rare and valuable example that represents an early type of modern petticoat that has replaced a traditional petticoat (dansokgot). The rattan under-vest has square neckline and two tiny sleeves similar to a Western cap sleeve. This kind of under-vest is a transitional form shown between under-vest similar to the Korean waistcoat (baeja) and one similar to the Western waistcoat (jokki).

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.55-68
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• 2008

This study is aiming to set a characteristic design and a fashion trend by analyzing hat style trends and fashion images shown in fashion collections in recent seven years. Also, based on the result of the analysis on the five world's major collections, the influence and the interrelation of hat and fashion image were analyzed. The study was performed by the context analysis method and the image evaluation method. In the context analysis method, the 1,391 pictures for hat-styles which were believed to be the standard of fashion style from the S/S season of 1998 to the F/W season of 2004 were analyzed. The research is summarized as follows. Based on the result of the fashion collections, the kinds of hats came Bowler, Beret, Cloche, Capeline, Cap and Hood in order, and Casual, Feminine, Natural, Formal, Romantic, and Mannish came in order for the case of the fashion images for putting on a hat. The result of the analysis on the characteristic of fashion design according to the kinds of hats, the casual image, with highest frequency, was found from all of the kinds except Capeline. Bowler and Cloche were conspicuous in jackets/slacks, Capeline was conspicuous in one-piece shape, and cloth silhouette showed the highest frequency in H type. As for Bowler, the color of cloth and hat was mostly black, and as for Beret and Cloche, achromatic color showed the highest frequency. But as for Capeline, the cloth color, including chromatic color, was various. As for Beret, pattern and material image were various comparatively, but as for other kinds of hats, there were the materials with no pattern and with hard material image.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.141-158
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• 2016

The objective of this study is to examine the type and characteristics of hat, and also to analyze the formative characteristics of hats shown in $Pr{\hat{e}}t-{\grave{a}}$-porter Collection. The literature review focused on the relevant technical books and preceding researches while the case study targeted 1,561 photos of hats shown in the 'Donga TV Collection'. The research range was from the S/S season of 2012 to the F/W season of 2015/16. The results of this study are as follows. 1. A hat is composed of crown and brim. In the results of classifying hats based on it, there were 572 crown-type hats, 533 hat-type, 219 cap-type, 156 irregular-type, and 81 brim-type in the order. 2. For the crown-type hats, they were mainly like cylindrical-type, bell-type, dome-type, and circle-type, using colors like black, beige, brown, red, mustard, and grey, and materials like wool, fur, velvet, straw, and metal while they were decorated with bead or lace. 3. For the hat-type hats, they were mainly like bell-type, ladder-type, and hemisphere-type, using colors like peach, white, gold, brown, and khaki, and materials like silk, cotton, straw, and wool while they were decorated with feather and ribbon. 4. For the cap-type hats, they were mainly like hemisphere-type, using colors like white, black, khaki, mustard, and purple, and materials like fur, leather, and wool while they were decorated with wappen and chain. 5. For the irregular-type hats, they were mainly like sandglass-type, box-type, animal-type, trumpet-type, and bell-type, using colors like purple, orange, pink, yellow, and sky-blue, and materials like metal, feather, mesh, plastic, straw, and linen while they were decorated with ribbon, net, bell, and flower. 6. For the brim-type visor, they were mainly like square-type, using colors like transparent, yellow, and black, and materials like plastic, cotton, leather, and metal.