• Title/Summary/Keyword: SilHak

Search Result 66, Processing Time 0.022 seconds

The Effects of Kisaeng's Clothes on General Women's Fashion in the Late Choson Dynasty (조선후기 기여복식이 일반부녀자 복식에 미친 영향)

  • 김나형;김용서
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
    • /
    • v.39
    • /
    • pp.113-123
    • /
    • 1998
  • This study focuses on the effects of the clothes worn by kisaeng; courtesans trained in singing and dancing, on changes in female psychology as reflected in general women's fashions during the later years of the Chosun dynasty. During this period, the social order had broken down considerable, due in part to the introduction of Roman Catholicism, and in part to the actions of Sil-hak, who emphasized open-ness and practicality in the organization of social affairs. This freer social environment disrup-ted the established social hierarchies. The kisaeng were among the first to respond to the new social mores by adopting more colorful, sensual, and individualized fashions. Their social position allowed them to reflect the new aesthetics of the time right away. Those aesthetics seemed to lay great emphasis on the artistic effects of contrast. The kisaeng would adorn their heads with large Kache (an elaborate wig or hairdo typically reserved for use by women in full formal dress). In contrast to this conspicuous hairstyle, they typically wore very tight-fitting Jogori (short-cropped Korean traditional jackets for women) around their upper torsos. The long skirts emerging from beneath these short jackets would typically flare out dramatically, with the aid of petticoats. However, these skirts would be bound at the waist with a sash, increasing the sexual suggestiveness of the clothing by drawing at-tention to the hips, and by exposing the bottom frills of the petticoats, or the wide pantal-oons and other undergarments the kisaeng wore to add volume to their skirts. The relative freedom enjoyed by the kisaeng to experiment with new fashions was not widely shared by most women. This generated envy from women of the noble classes, who were more bound by convention, and restrained from adopting such a mode of dress. It also generated envy from women of the humble classes, who saw the kisaeng as working little for their wealth, and yet dressing every day in finery that the average women would only ever be able to afford on her wedding day. This envy directed at the relative freedom/wealth of the kisaeng by women who faced greater socioeconomic constraints was given cultural expression through the adoption of elements of the kisaeng's fashion in the fashions of both noblewomen and humble women in old korea. The luxurious Kache sported by the kisaeng had in fact been borrowed from the habitual attire of upper-class women. So to distinguish themeselves from the kisaeng, they began to abandon these elaborate hairstyles in favor of traditional ceremonial hoods (Nel-ul-a thin black women's hood) and coronets (Suegaechima). This supposed reaction to the abuse of the Kache by the kisaeng still remained influenced by the kisaeng still remained influence by the kisaeng, however, as these headdresses became adorned with many more jewels and decorations, in imitation of the kisaeng's adaptations of the coronet. At the same time, noblewomen began sporting the Jangwue ; a headdress previously worn only by kisaeng and lower class women, and lower class women were then permitted to wear the Kache at weddings. All women behan to wear shorter, tighter Jogori jackets, and to add volume to their skirts. They also attached frills to their under-garments in imitation of the kisaeng's exposed petticoats and pantaloons. The impact of kisaeng fashions was thus deep and widespread, and can be understood as an expression of women's longing for freedom from socioeconomic constraints in the late Chosun dynasty. This study adopts an interdisciplinary ap-proach to the understanding of historical changes in women's fashions. Such interdisciplinary work can greatly enrich the study of fashion, often narrowly focused on clothing morphology and broad generalizations about society. For this reason, specific dynamics of feminine psychology in the late Chosun dynasty were elaborated in this study, to provide a deeper under-standing of the changes in fashion underpinned by them. If more such detailed analyses are undertaken, a whole new understanding of changes in fashion can be generated, and perhaps a transformation of the field of fashion history can be ultimately achieved.

  • PDF

Evaluating The Water Resistance of Wood Adhesives Formulated with Chicken Feather Produced from Poultry Industry (도계부산물인 닭털을 이용한 목재접착제의 내수성 평가)

  • Park, Dae-Hak;Yang, In;Choi, Won-Sil;Oh, Sei Chang;Ahn, Dong-uk;Han, Gyu-Seong
    • Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
    • /
    • v.45 no.1
    • /
    • pp.126-138
    • /
    • 2017
  • This study was conducted to investigate the potential of chicken feather (CF), which is a by-product in poultry industry, as a raw material of wood adhesives. For the purpose, adhesive resins were formulated with NaOH- and $H_2SO_4$-hydrolyzed CF as well as crosslinkers, and then the properties and water resistance of the adhesive resins against hot water were measured. CF was made of mainly keratin-type protein, and no or very low content of heavy metals was detected. Hydrolysis rate of CF increased as NaOH concentration in hydrolysis solutions increased. However, in order to minimize the loss of adhesive property of protein itself by the severe hydrolysis of CF and to seek its proper hydrolysis conditions, NaOH concentrations in hydrolysis solution determined to adjust to 5%, 7.5% and 10%. In the NaOH-hydrolyzed CF, $H_2SO_4$-hydrolyzed CF as a hardener and crosslinker were added to formulate CF-based adhesive resins. Solid content of the resins ranged from 28.3% to 44.8% depending on hydrolysis conditions and type of crosslinker. Viscosity of the resins at $25^{\circ}C$ was very high. However, when the temperature of the resins was increased to $50^{\circ}C$, the viscosity decreased greatly and thus the resins could be applied as a sprayable resin. Retention rate measured to evaluate the water resistance of adhesive resins was the highest in the cured resin formulated with 5% NaOH-hydrolyzed CF and 5% $H_2SO_4$-hydrolyzed CF of 10% based on the solid weight as a hardener. Retention rate depending on crosslinkers added into adhesive resins was the highest phenol-formaldehyde (PF) followed by melamine-urea-formaldehyde (MUF) and formalin. The retention rate of CF-based adhesives formulated with 5% NaOH-hydrolyzed CF, PF and $H_2SO_4$-hydrolyzed CF of 10% and over did not differ statistically from that of commercial MUF resins. All of CF-based adhesives formulated with PF as a crosslinker and one with 5% NaOH-hydrolyzed CF of 55%, 5% $H_2SO_4$-hydrolyzed CF of 15%, and MUF of 30% on the basis of solid weight could be substituted for commercial urea-formaldehyde resins, From the results, CF can be used as a raw material of wood adhesives if hydrolyzed in proper conditions.

Concentrations of the Pollutants in Ground Water and their Behavior in Soils in Cheju Island;II. Nitrate-nitrogen concentration and tis relation to other ions in ground water near the district of pig arming complex in the northwest region (제주도 지하수중 오염물질의 농도와 토양중 그의 행동에 관한 연구;Ⅱ. 서북부지역 양돈단지 주변 지하수중의 $NO_3-N$ 농도와 다른 이온과의 관계)

  • Hyun, Hae-Nam;Koh, Seung-Hak;Oh, Sang-Sil
    • Korean Journal of Environmental Agriculture
    • /
    • v.13 no.2
    • /
    • pp.151-159
    • /
    • 1994
  • This study was conducted to investigate the $NO_3-N$ concentration, the relationship between $NO_3-N$ and other ions, and patterns of ions in ground water used as drinking water in Cheju Island. Samples were collected from 19 wells in the northwest region, near the district of poultry complex, and 9 wells in the northeast region. In the northwest region, $NO_3-N$ concentrations in D-14 and D-202 wells near the pig farming facilities were 10.95 and 13.1 mg/L, respectively, exceeding the standard concentration of drinking water. The concentration in D-65, D-35, and D-120 wells were slightly lower than the standard concentration. However, $NO_3-N$ concentrations in the wells in the northeast region were lower than 3mg/L. In wells in the northwest region, $NO_3-N$ concentrations were negatively correlated with pH and positively correlated with $Ca^{++}$, $Mg^{++}$, $Na^+$ $Cl^-$, $SO_4^{--}$, and $Cl^-/HCO_3^-$. However, in the northeast region, they were not related with pH and the ions. The chemical compositions in D-65, D-35, and D-41 wells showed higher concentrations of $Ca^{++}$, $Mg^{++}$, $Na^+$, $Cl^-$, $NO_3-N$ and $SO_4^{--}$ than the unpolluted D-42 well. These results suggest that ground water near the pig farming complex was polluted by pig farming waste in the northwest region.

  • PDF

The Effect of Insomnia Severity on Daytime Sleepiness in Obstructive Sleep Apnea Syndrome (불면증 정도가 폐쇄성 수면무호흡 증후군에서의 주간졸림 정도에 끼치는 영향)

  • Nam, Ji-Won;Shin, Byoung-Hak;Shin, Hyeon-Sil;Park, Minji
    • Sleep Medicine and Psychophysiology
    • /
    • v.22 no.1
    • /
    • pp.11-19
    • /
    • 2015
  • Objectives: Whether daytime sleepiness is proportional to the severity of sleep apnea in obstructive sleep apnea syndrome (OSAS) is controversial. In this study we investigated how insomnia severity affects the association between daytime sleepiness and sleep apnea severity in OSAS. Methods: The present study included 235 male subjects who were diagnosed with OSAS based on clinical history and nocturnal polysomnography. Pearson's correlation analysis was conducted among sleep and mood-related self-reported data, polysomnographic data and demographic data of all subjects. Based on Pittsburgh Sleep Quality Index (PSQI), the subjects were divided into 2 groups; group A (n = 75; $PSQI{\leq}5$) and group B (n = 160; PSQI > 5). Partial correlation analysis was performed between the Epworth Sleepiness Scale (ESS) and other data in both groups. Multiple linear regression analysis was conducted to investigate the factors which affected the ESS in group A. Results: Pearson's correlation analysis showed weak or non-existent correlations between ESS and apnea severity data such as apnea-hypopnea index (AHI) (r = 0.148, p = 0.023), apnea index (AI) (r = 0.137, p = 0.036), hypopnea index (HI) (r = 0.058, p = 0.377), oxygen desaturation index (ODI) (r = 0.149, p = 0.022) and arousal total index (ATI) (r = 0.129, p = 0.048). Positive correlations between ESS and apnea severity data such as AHI ($r_p=0.313$, p = 0.008), AI ($r_p=0.339$, p = 0.004), ODI ($r_p=0.289$, p = 0.015) and ATI ($r_p=0.256$, p = 0.031) were observed only in group A. Multiple regression analysis showed that AI (t = 2.996, p = 0.004) and BAI (t = 2.721, p = 0.008) were associated with ESS in group A. Conclusion: The correlation between daytime sleepiness and sleep apnea severity was shown only in group A. This result suggests that associations between daytime sleepiness in OSAS and sleep apnea severity will become prominent when controlling for insomnia-related variables.

Reaction Mechanism and Curing Characteristics of Chicken Feather-Based Adhesives and Adhesive Properties of Medium-Density Fiberboard Bonded with the Adhesive Resins (닭털로 제조한 접착제의 반응기작 및 경화 특성과 이를 이용하여 제조한 중밀도섬유판의 접착 특성)

  • Yang, In;Park, Dae-Hak;Choi, Won-Sil;Oh, Sei Chang;Ahn, Dong-uk;Han, Gyu-Seong
    • Korean Chemical Engineering Research
    • /
    • v.55 no.3
    • /
    • pp.385-394
    • /
    • 2017
  • In this study, reaction mechanism and curing characteristics of adhesives formulated with NaOH- and $H_2SO_4$-hydrolyzed chicken feather (CF) and formaldehyde-based crosslinkers were investigated by FT-IR and DSC. In addition, adhesive properties and formaldehyde emission of medium-density fiberboards (MDF) applied with the adhesives were measured. CF-based adhesives having a solid content of 40% and over were very viscous at $25^{\circ}C$, but the viscosity reduced to $300{\sim}660m{\cdot}Pa{\cdot}s$ at $50^{\circ}C$. Consequently, the adhesives could be used as a sprayable resin. Through the FT-IR spectra of liquid and cured CF-based adhesives, addition reaction of methylol group and condensation reaction between the functional groups with the use of formaldehyde-based crosslinkers were identified. From the analysis of DSC, it was elucidated for CF-based adhesives to require a higher pressing temperature or longer pressing time comparing to commercial urea-formaldehyde (C-UF) resin. MDF bonded with CF-based adhesives, which was formulated with 5% NaOH-hydrolyzed CF (CF-AK-5%) and PF of formaldehyde to phenol mole ratio of 2.5 (PF-2.5), and pressed for 8 min had higher MOR and IB than those with other CF-based adhesives. MOR and IB of MDF bonded with the CF-based adhesives regardless of formulation type and pressing time were higher than those with C-UF resin. When the values compared with the minimum requirements of KS standard, IB exceeded the KS standard in all formulations and pressing time, but MOR of only MDF bonded with CF-AK-5% and PF-2.5 and pressed for 8 min satisfied the KS standard. What was worse, 24-TS of MDF bonded with all CF-based adhesives did not satisfied the KS standard. However, MOR and 24-TS can be improved by increasing the target density of MDF or the amount of wax emulsion, which is added to improve the water resistance of MDF. Importantly, the use of CF-based adhesives decreased greatly the formaldehyde emission. Based on the results, we reached the conclusion that CF-based adhesives formulated under proper conditions had a potential as a sprayable resin for the production of wood panels.

Studies on Pollutant Concentrations in Ground Water and Their Behavior in Soils , Cheju Island. I. Changes in Nitrate-nitrogen Concentration in Ground-water near Hotel complexes and Business district During the Period form 1987 to 1992 (제주도 지하수중 오염물질의 농도와 토양중 그의 행동에 관한 연구 1. 호텔 및 상가주변에서의 지하수중 $NO_3-N$의 농도 변화 (1987-1992))

  • Hyun, Hae-Nam;Oh, Sang-Sil;Koh, Seung-Hak
    • Korean Journal of Environmental Agriculture
    • /
    • v.13 no.1
    • /
    • pp.19-30
    • /
    • 1994
  • This study was conducted to investigate the degree of ground water pollution used for drinking water in Cheju Island. Samples were collected monthly from 31 wells of 10 divided areas and were analyzed for $NO_3-N$, pH, $SO_4$, Cl and hardness from 1987 to 1992. $NO_3-N$ concentrations in the samples, with the exception of sample No.23, did not exceed the standard concentration of drinking-water(10mg/l). $NO_3-N$ concentrations at area 10, unpolluted area, ranged from <1.0 mg/l to just over 1.2 mg/l. However, samples from the business district of the area 8 showed the concentrations ranging from 5 mg/l in 1987 to 8.l mg/l in 1992 with a mean of 6.8 mg/l, about 5 times higher than those from the area 10. $NO_3-N$ concentration in sample No. 23 increased from 4 mg/l in 1987 to 12.6 mg/l in 1991. Average rate of increase in $NO_3-N$ in samples of No. 1, 2, 4, and 8 at area 8 was about 1.2mg/l per year in the study period. The ground water at area 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7 showed in the range of pH 7 to 8.1, being similar to area 10. However, pH at area 8 was in the range of 6.6 to 7.3, being lower than that in the other areas. Hardness at area 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 were in the range of 30 to 80 mg/l, being higher than that at area 10. Those at area 8 were the highest among all the other areas tested. The results of this study suggest that $NO_3-N$ contamination in ground water could be a problem at hotel complexes and business district in Cheju Island.

  • PDF