• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.122-130
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• 1997

Coastal diaster induced by waves and countermeasures were investigated in the viewpoint of reduction of overtopping rate with enviroment in fishing port. The reduction method of wave overtopping rate using ecosystem control structures was proposed and studied on the efficiency by hydraulic and numerical experiments. The estimation models on wave overtopping rate was proposed after comparing previous models with dimensional analysis and experimental results. Control function o fwave overtopping by use of ecosystem controlstructures was simulated and discussed with combining wave shoaling-dissipation-breaking deformation model around ecosystem control structures and newly proposed calculation model for wave overtopping rate. Feasiblilty of ecosystem control structures could be confirmed for reduction of wave overtopping and fisheries-based multipurpose development of coastal zone.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.246-255
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• 1996

A mild slope equation of parabolic type is derived with the revision of the 2nd order differential term and a new approach for the application to large area is presented. The replacement with long waves can overcome the numerical difficulty due to small waves over the system of large grid sizes. No matter how long the replaced wave length is, the refraction and shoaling are maintained by toeing its own wave speed and group velocity, respectively. However, the diffraction effect is modified by means of Eikonal equation. The developed numerical model was applied to the shoal of Ito and Tanimoto (1972) to yield the satisfactory results.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1996.10a
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• pp.109-114
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• 1996

In a linear dispersive system, the combined effect of water wave frnnsformations such as refraction, diffraction, shoaling, and reflection can be predicted by the mild-slope equation which was developed by Berkhoff (1972) using the Galerkin-eigenfunction method. In the derivation of the equation, he assumed a mild slope of the bottom $\nabla$h/kh << 1 (where $\nabla$ is the horizontal gradient operator, k is the wavenumber, and h is the water depth) and thus neglected second-order bottom effect terms proportional to O($\nabla$h)$^2$ and O($\nabla$$^2$h). (omitted)

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2000.04a
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• pp.75-81
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• 2000

Water waves propagate over irregular bottom bathymetry are transformed by refraction, diffraction, shoaling, reflection etc. Principal factor of wave transform is bottom bathymetry, but in case of current field, current is another important factor which effect wave transformation. The governing equation of this study is develop as wave-current equation type to investigate the effect of wave-current interaction. This wave-current model was applied to the Kwangan beach which is located at Pusan. The numerical simulation results of this model show the characteristics of wave transformation and flow pattern around the Kwangan beach fairly well.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.39-46
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• 2010

The calmness inside a harbor plays an important role in the appropriate disposition of harbor structures. However, it is not easy to acquire accurate computational results because these are affected by many factors concerned with wave transformation. Recently, numerical model tests, which are quicker and more economical than hydraulic model experiments, were carried out for the purpose of analyzing wave height distributions in harbors. This paper presents a numerical model that is able to calculate wave heights inside a harbor. It is based on a time-dependent mild slope involving wave refraction, diffraction, shoaling effect, and reflection. In particular, arbitrary reflectivity is used at the boundary in order to simulate the real harbor reflection condition. The proposed numerical model is applied to Samcheon new-harbor in order to investigate harbor calmness.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.135-146
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• 2002

The upper ocean in the western equatorial Pacific warm pool during TOGA-COARE IMET IOP was simulated using a one-dimensional turbulence closure ocean mixed-layer model, which considered recent observations, such as the remarkable enhancement of turbulent kinetic energy near the ocean surface. The shoaling/deepening of the mixed layer and warming/cooling subsurface water in the model were in reasonable agreement with the observations. There was a significant improvement in simulating the cooling trend of the sea surface temperature under a westerly wind burst with heavy rainfall over previous simulations using bulk mixed-layer models. By contrast the simulated sea surface salinity (SSS) departed significantly from the observed SSS, especially during a westerly burst and the subsequent restratification period, which might be due to 3-D control processes, such as downwelling/upwelling or advection.

• Water Engineering Research
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.187-197
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• 2000

This paper describes an adaptive quadtree-based 2DH wave-current interaction model which is able to predict wave breaking, shoaling, refraction, diffraction, wave-current interaction, set-up and set-down, mixing processes (turbulent diffusion), bottom frictional effects, and movement of the land-water interface at the shoreline. The wave period-and depth-averaged governing equations are discretised explictly by means of an Adams-Bashforth second-order finite difference technaique on adaptive hierarchical staggered quadtree grids. Grid adaptation is achieved through seeding points distributed according to flow criteria(e.g. local current gradients). Results are presented for nearshore circulation at a sinusoidal beach. Enrichment permits refined modelling of important localised flow features.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.15-21
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• 1989

A simple numerical refraction model is presented. The model takes into account refraction, shoaling and bottom dissipation. Eikonal equation and equation of energy conservation are discretized by an explicit finite-difference method, which provides wave angle and height at each grid point, respectively. Applications of the model were made to simple geometries as well as complex geometries, and some advantages on computing time and stability have been observed.

• Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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• v.51 no.5
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• pp.579-589
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• 2018

Data from the two bottom moorings of ADCP (acoustic doppler current profiler), coastal weather station and CTC (conductivity temperature depth) observations for 2001 were analyzed to describe the physical processes associated with upwelling off the southeast coast of Korea. Winds were favorable for upwelling during summer, but were not correlated with currents. Shoaling of isotherms toward the coast due to the baroclinic tilting of the strong East Korean Warm Current (EKWC) provided a favorable background for immediate upwelling-response of surface temperature to southerly winds. This baroclinic effect was supported by a significant inverse coherence between the upper-layer current and bottom temperature near the coast. This upwelling is similar to the Guinea Current upwelling, which is driven by remote forcing (Houghton, 1989). Persistent southward flow was observed below approximately $10^{\circ}C$ isotherm throughout the observation period.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.6-10
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• 2001

Water waves propagate over irregular bottom bathymetry are transformed by refraction, diffraction, shoaling, reflection etc. Principal factor of wave transform is bottom bathymetry, but in case of current field, current is another important factor which effect wave transformation. The governing equation of this study is develope as wave-current equation type to investigate the effect of wave-current interaction. It starts from Berkhoff's(1972) mild slope equation and is transformed to time-dependent hyperbolic type equation by using variational principal. Finally the governing equation is shown as a parabolic type equation by splitting method. This wave-current model was applied to the kwangan beach which is located at Pusan. The numerical simulation results of this model show the characteristics of wave transformation and flow pattern around the Kwangan beach fairly well.