• Title/Summary/Keyword: Shallow water wave

Search Result 270, Processing Time 0.03 seconds

Transition Characteristics of Long Period Waves by Field Observation (현장관측에 의한 장주기파의 천이특성)

  • 김규한;김덕중;류형석
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
    • /
    • v.14 no.1
    • /
    • pp.34-40
    • /
    • 2002
  • In order to estimate the height of long period wave from character of deep water wave, field observation is carried out three wave gauge are arranged by a straight line from the seashore to offshore direction and the result is analyzed. In addition, the existing theory of the mechanism for long period wave producer is verified by field observation, and the relation between deep water wave and long period wave of shallow area is examined. Observed long period wave is coincided with the existing theory for the most part. In order to add the change of time and space of long period wave, the height of long period wave is calculated by the composition of long period wave in each position. As a result, the relation of long period wave and deep water wave is presented more clear. Estimate formula is drew through them.

A Geoacoustic Model at the SSDP-101 Long-core Site in the Korea Strait

  • Woo-Hun Ryang;Seong-Pil Kim
    • Journal of the Korean earth science society
    • /
    • v.44 no.4
    • /
    • pp.264-274
    • /
    • 2023
  • The Korea Strait comprises a continental shelf in a shallow sea that experienced glacio-eustastic sea-level changes during the Quaternary period. A long core of 76.6 m in length was acquired at the South Sea Drilling Project site (SSDP-101; 34°19.666'E and 128°16.335'N) with a 60 m water deep. The uppermost massive sand beds were interpreted as sandy sediments of the nearshore marine sand ridge in the shallow sea during the transgression of sea level, whereas the lower parts of alternating sandy and muddy beds were interpreted as deposits in marsh, estuary, and tidal flat environments. A three-layered geoacoustic model was reconstructed for the sedimentary succession in the high-resolution seismic profile based on a 140-grain size and sediment type of core SSDP-101. For the actual underwater simulation and experiments, the in-situ P-wave speeds were calculated using the sound speed ratio of the Hamilton method.

Numerical Simulation of a Near shore Tsunami Using a Digital Wave Tank Simulation Technique (디지털 수치수조 기법에 의한 연안 Tsunami의 수치 시뮬레이션)

  • 박종천;전호환
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
    • /
    • v.17 no.6
    • /
    • pp.7-15
    • /
    • 2003
  • A Digital Wave Tank simulation technique, based on a finite-difference method and a modified marker-and-cell (MAC) algorithm, is applied in order to investigate the characteristics of nonlinear Tsunami propagations and their interactions with a 2D sloping beach, Ohkushiri Island, and to predict maximum wove run-up around the island. The Navier-Stokes (NS) and continuity equation are governed in the computational domain, and the boundary values are updated at each time step, by a finite-difference time-marching scheme in the frame of the rectangular coordinate system. The fully nonlinear, kinematic, free-surface condition is satisfied by the modified marker-density function technique. The near shore Tsunami is assumed to be a solitary wave, and is generated from the numerical wave-maker in the developed Digital Wave Tank. The simulation results are compared with the experiments and other numerical methods, based on the shallow-water wave theory.

Numerical Simulation of Nearshore Tsunami Using a Digital Wave Tank Simulation Technique (디지털 수치수조 기법에 의한 연안 Tsunami의 수치 시뮬레이션)

  • Park, Jong-Chun;Chun, Ho-Hwan
    • Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
    • /
    • 2003.05a
    • /
    • pp.231-239
    • /
    • 2003
  • A Digital Wave Tank simulation technique based on a finite-difference method and a modified marker-and-cell (MAC) algorithm is applied to investigate the characteristics of nonlinear Tsunami propagations and their interactions with a 2D sloping beach and Ohkushiri island, and to predict maximum wave run-up around the island. The Navier-Stokes (NS) and continuity equation are governed in the computational domain and the boundary values updated at each time step by a finite-difference time-marching scheme in the frame of rectangular coordinate system. The fully nonlinear kinematic free-surface condition is satisfied by the modified marker-density function technique. The Nearshore Tsunami is assumed to be a solitary wave and generated from the numerical wavemaker in the developed Digital Wave Tank. The simulation results are compared with the experiments and other numerical methods based on the shallow-water wave theory.

  • PDF

Computation of the Bow Deck Design Pressure against the Green Water Impact (Green Water 충격에 대비한 선수갑판 설계압력의 산출)

  • Kim, Yong Jig;Shin, Ki-Seok;Lee, Seung-Chul;Ha, Youngrok;Hong, Sa Young
    • Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
    • /
    • v.56 no.4
    • /
    • pp.343-351
    • /
    • 2019
  • Green water impact may sometimes cause some structure damages on ship's bow deck. Prediction of proper design pressure against the green water impact is an essential task to prevent the possible damages on bow deck. This paper presents a computational method of the bow deck's design pressure against the green water impact. Large heave and pitch motions of ship are calculated by the time domain nonlinear strip method. Green water flow and pressure on bow deck are simulated by the predictor-corrector second kind upstream finite difference method. This green water simulation method is based on the shallow water wave equations expanded for moving bottom conditions. For various kind of ships such as container ship, VLCC, oil tanker and bulk carrier, the green water design pressures on bow deck are computed and discussed. Also, the obtained results of design pressure on bow deck are compared with those of the classification society rules and discussed.

Numeric Analysis of 2-Dimensional Nonlinear Viscous Free-Surface Wave Problems (점성을 고려한 2차원 비선형 자유표면파 문제의 수치해석)

  • Y.H. Kim
    • Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
    • /
    • v.30 no.2
    • /
    • pp.98-111
    • /
    • 1993
  • Two-dimensional nonlinear free-surface wave problems are analyzed with consideration of viscosity. Navier-Stokes equation and continuity equation are solved by the application of Finite Analytic Method, and MAC scheme is used far the treatment of free surface. Surface tension effect is also considered and laminar flow is assumed. The free-surface waves in shallow water, the flows around a vortex-pair with free surface and the wave ahead of a rectangular body are simulated to test the present numerical scheme. In the shallow water problem, viscous effect due to the friction on the bottom is observed. In the second problem, the approach of a vortex-pair to the free surface is simulated to examine the interaction of vortex-pair with the free surface. In the third problem, the wave ahead of a semi-infinite floating body is simulated.

  • PDF

Investigation on the Variation of Ocean Waves passing through Shallow Waters (낮은 수심을 통과하는 해양파의 변화에 대한 연구)

  • Seok, Woochan;Won, Younsang
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
    • /
    • v.28 no.1
    • /
    • pp.161-167
    • /
    • 2022
  • Ocean waves passing through the underwater bar at a shallow depth experience a shoaling effect caused by decreasing water depth, a nonlinear interaction therein owing to steepening wave slope, and a wave dispersion effect as the water depth increases again. Because this problem includes many complicated phenomena, it is used as a good example of validating a theoretical development or a CFD method for ocean wave applications. Validation is performed mainly for regular waves by comparing the wave elevation patterns in the time domain with the experimental results. In this study, the spectral evolution of wave spectrum is investigated in the frequency domain when a CFD method such as OpenFOAM is applied for this problem. In particular, the effects of initial phase conditions as well as the nonlinear interaction among harmonic waves are studied.

Parabolic Approximation Model for Wave Deformation Prediction in the Shallow Water (천해파랑 변형예측을 위한 포물형 근사 모델)

  • 이동수;김숭경
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
    • /
    • 1992.08a
    • /
    • pp.84-89
    • /
    • 1992
  • 파랑변형 예측모델로서는 타원형 편미분 방정식 형태인 완경사 방정식(Berkhoff, 1972)이 있으며 이는 파랑의 굴절, 회절, 반사등의 변형을 재현할 수 있으나 수치해석상 어려운점이 있으며 많은 기억용량과 계산시간이 소요되어 일반적이지 못한 단점이 있다.(중략)

  • PDF

An Application of the HLLL Approximate Riemann Solver to the Shallow Water Equations (천수방정식에 대한 HLLL 근사 Riemann 해법의 적용)

  • Hwang, Seung-Yong;Lee, Sam Hee
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
    • /
    • v.32 no.1B
    • /
    • pp.21-27
    • /
    • 2012
  • The HLLL scheme, proposed by T. Linde, determines all the wave speeds from the initial states because the middle wave is evaluated by the introduction of a generalized entropy function. The scheme is considered a genuine successor to the original HLL scheme because it is completely separated form the Roe's linearization scheme unlike the HLLE scheme and does not rely on the exact solution unlike the HLLC scheme. In this study, a numerical model was configured by the HLLL scheme with the total energy as a generalized entropy function to solve governing equations, which are the one-dimensional shallow water equations without source terms and with an additional conserved variable relating a concentration. Despite the limitations of the first order solutions, results to three cases with the exact solutions were generally accurate. The HLLL scheme appeared to be superior in comparison with the other HLL-type schemes. In particular, the scheme gave fairly accurate results in capturing the front of wetting and drying. However, it revealed shortcomings of more time-consuming calculations compared to the other schemes.