• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.123-138
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• 2019

The hat on the back of the upper jacket in Scythian, in of northern region surrounding the Black Sea, is described as a typical woolen hood, but until now has been overlooked in Korean costume studies. The purpose of this study is to analyze the hat on the upper jacket in Scythians and to recognize the meaning of the hat. A further purpose is to complete the basic framework of research concerning the Scythian costume by adding the part that was overlooked previously As for the research method, we collected literature, previous research results, the exhibition catalog, and the related artifacts for analysis. The literature was collected at the German Archaeological Research Institute. The analysis of artifacts was based on data collected by the researchers at the Heremitage Museum in Russia and data was taken by the staff of the Heremitage Museum. The conclusions of this study are as follows: Among the artifacts in the northern region of the Black Sea, it was perviously believed that Scythians status was signified by the wearing of hat-tops. Regardless of age, warriors and knights all wore upper jackets with hats, so it appears that the people who are active wore upper jackets with hats. On the other hand, it was assumed that the royal family, who wore ornamented, colorful, and decorative hats were not observed to have worn upper jackets with hats, and therefore did not require a hat. Therefore, it is considered that the hat in the Scythian society was a costume element emphasizing practicality, not necessarily a class symbol.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2005.10a
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• pp.124-125
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• 2005

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.15
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• pp.177-194
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• 1990

Koh(袴) was a type of dress worn on the lower part of the body which was commonly used in the Northeast Asia. It was originally used by the Northern race for the need of nomadism or hunting. The origin of the Koh which appeared in the area would be found from the trousers of the Huns who influenced in the Northeast Asia, and became in the part of the Scythian culture. The Scythians are the nomadizing race inhabited in the Northern Caucasas on the wast of the Black Sea and influenced on the inland Eurasian steppe as the first typical horse-riding race. The objectives of Koh which had been worn in the Scythian, Mongolia, Korea as well as Japan as a part of Dongho dress and ornaments and to contemplate the transmission process by cultural exchange among different races for the period from 4th century to 7th century. 1. The Origination of the Koh The Koh was originated by the environmental factor to protect the cold in the North but also from the heat in the South, and was changed and developed as gradually satisfying to the needs of the times. In the Northeast Asia the Koh was in the class of the Northern Chinese garment, and was used widely by the horse riding Scythians who moved widely from the Eurasian inland to Japan. The oldest original which could reflect the type of the Northern clothes was a pair of trousers discovered in the Huns remains of Noin Ula. This showed the exact form of hunting clothes and had a similar form with the Korean female tro-users. Since the same form of trousers drawn on the wall painting of which was excavated 4-5th century ancient Koguryo(高句麗) tomb was the same form the trousers of Noin Ula seemed to be the original form of Koh in the Northeast Asia. 2. The Chinese Trousers It was the time of the King Mooryung(武靈王) in the Cho(趙) Dynasty B.C. 3th century that the trousers used regularly in China. However, the Koh had been used as undergarment which functioned for the protection of the cold not the horseriding garment. The trousers seemed to be not very obviously shown off since the Poh (袍) was long, but mainly used by the people from lower class. As people learned the adapted the trousers. It was essential for the times of war and quarrel. The king himself started wearing the Koh. The Chinese trousers were influenced by the Huns, the Northern clothes of the Scythian culture, and similar to the Korean clothes. 3. The Korean Trousers Korean was a race bared from the Eastern foreign group. It was obvious that the clothes was Baji-Jeogori(바지 저고리), the garment of the Northern people. This had the same form of the Scythian dress and ornaments which was excavated from the Mongolian Noin Ula. The Scythian dress and ornaments were influenced from the Ancient West Asia Empire and transmitted to the Northeast Koguryu by the horseriding Scythian. The trousers were kept in the traditional style by the common people in Korea were transmitted to Japan which were for behind in cultural aspect, as well as got used to the Chinese as the efficient clothes though active cultural exchange. 4. The Japanese Trousers The ancient Japanese clothes were influenced by the Southern factor but not the form of the Koh. As the Korean people group was moving towards Japan and conquer the Japanese in the 4-5th century, however, North Altaic culture was formed and at the same time the clothes were also developed. The most influenced clothes at this time were those of Baekge(百濟) and the trousers form called Euigon became the main form. Because of the climatic regional factor, it was tied not at the ankle but under the knee. From the view the ancient Japanese clothes disappeard about that time, it could be due to the conquest of the culturally superior race but not the transmission of the culture. In the latest 7th century both the Chinese and Japanese dress forms were present, but the Dongho(東胡) dress and its ornament from Korea was still the basic of the Japanese dress form.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.38 no.8
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• pp.13-27
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• 2000

The background of single animal figures was originated from those northern mounted nomadic groups, which was Scythe style Culture. The art of the nomads working in the Scythian idiom was small in size and essentially decorative in intention, yet practically every object which can be associated with any unit in this group of people possesses many of the attributes essential to a real work of art. Clarity of conception, purity of form, co-ordination of rhythm and balance, and not least, an understanding and respect for the material employed were triumphantly blended by the Eurasian nomads to produce a distinctive style. In Scythian art the multitude of animal representations well illustrates the reoccupation of this nomadic people with animals in their environment. Usually only wild animals are represented. Commonly depicted are: stags and deer, lions or other large cats, eagles, birds heads (perhaps of ravens), griffins, snakes, hares, fish, goats, rams, boars, moose (elk), yak, sheep and bears. The occasional exception to the wild animal rule is domesticated horses-important because the Scythians were horse bleeders and their whole culture revolved around their dependence on the horse. The nomads had little reason to create object in honour of gods or men, but they had an instinct for beauty and the wish to surround themselves with the animal forms in which they had come to delight The Scytians tried to combine in a single rendering all the salient points of the animal they were delineating. They archived considerable success in the difficult task of showing in a single image the various and often incompatible poses assumed by a single animal in the course of its life. Zoomorphic motifs were used not simple for decorative effect, but to trim the object into amulets, with magical power to assist in hunting, and to protect the owner from harm.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.297-316
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• 1995

The system and symbolizing ideologic meanings of the metallic Kwon in period of the Three-Kingdoms were comsidered by comparing to their cultural path and structal styles throughout the tree and the deer worship ideology. The results of this study are as followings; Firstly, the beginning of the Korean, mostly northern style was originated from metal tools of the Bronze age in BC 6c-7c. The maJ;lufature of the metallic adornment brought the pr-evailing use of metallic objects of craftwork after the supply of ironmongery. Secondly, the cultmal characteristics of the metallic Kwan in the kor-ean Peninsula were influenced f-rom the northern chinese tribes, Momg Go, Hung No, and Sien-pi who were transmitted from the scythian of the southern Russia having a prefenence for gold. Thir-dly, the metallic Kwon of the Kogmgo and the Baekje era was ideologically based on the ar-t of Buddism of the pattern of blazing flame, the carved pattern of flower- of herb, and the honey. sukle which were tramsmitted to china thr-ough the silk noad. Fourthly, the metallic K wam of the silla era consisted of the tree and the antler types in closely nelated to the tree and the deer ideology which were based on the background of shamanism. It should be raid that the metallic Kwan of the silla esa are connected to the type of nor-them ancient K wan. Lasthy, the metallic Kwan-Mo of the Kaja esa was mosthy original type of flower of herb even if kome of these ar-e similiar to the tree adornment type of silla. This type of flower of herb in based on the scythian type with a statue im silveer founded at Alexandnopol in the southern russia.

• Acta Via Serica
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.53-78
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• 2023

The paper presents some new results illustrating some developments related to the concept of the Silk Road and subsequent methodological reflections. New laboratory results of scientific analyses of plants, minerals, and human remains in combination with more conventional methods of research contribute to a better understanding of the multidirectionality of exchanges in Pre- and Protohistory. Unsuspected long-distance transfers of items, especially of metals (tin) and biological materials (plants, pathogens, etc.) are discovered. Adding ancient DNA and petroglyphs to the vexed question of the Indo-European migrations across Eurasia complexifies the familiar linguistic, historical, and archaeological research landscape. Recent excavations show the impact of the adoption of artistic elements adapted from the Achaemenid arts, far in the steppe world, and up to China. Multidirectional (including North-South lanes) and multidisciplinary approaches leave space and hope for more rigorous scientific modelizations for the archaeology of Eurasia and the Silk Road.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.67-78
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• 2000

This is a study on the art style of amimal fight in Scytian ornaments which had been popular in Steppe region of Eurasia. Animals were considered to have magical power and to provide protection against evil or disaster and representations of them thus occupied an important place in life. This style reflected the mythology, the ethical and aesthetic ideals of the warrior-nomad. With a magnificent understanding of composition and the essential nature of the material, craftsmen fashioned utilitarian objects in animal form: weaponry, horse trappings, clothes, ornaments and jewellery and other everyday objects were all decorated with zoomorphic motifs. Without copying nature, they accurately conveyed the essence of every beast depicted. The highly stylized modelling uses bold accentuated planes, while distinctive features associated with particular species are emphasized and exaggerated. The purpose and meaning of the animal motifs used in Scythian ornaments appears that in some cases the work was intended to be purely ornamental, while many times the motifs had symbolic meaning (such as the successful dominance of the aggressor over the victim portrayed in the attack scenes). Magical use of symbols may have been intended to guarantee the power of the aggressor.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.905-917
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• 2014

This study clarifies that Scytian waistband had flowed into the Jeoseon Dynasty, and it was settled down to saezodae(which is male belt) and norigae(which is female accessory) and pocket in the Joseon Dynasty. Historical records and relic materials are examined and analyzed by quality assessment. 5 experts performs sensory evaluation for 17 pictures of Scytian waistband, and 42 of norigae, 24 of pocket, 6 of small knife, 11 of belt in the Joseon Dynasty, and finally similarity in form and purpose of use between both of them are come out. Research results are summarized as follows: First, Scytian waistband made with leather and metal was carried in the girdle. Men in the Joseon Dynasty carried various forms of belts as position and jobs such as saezodae, kwangdahae, dongdahae, doa. Trinkets of hopae, jangdo, pocket, etc. are put on belt or separately attached. Belt was not put on the women dress, but more various trinkets were used than those on men dress. Norigae, pocket, and jangdo were used practically and decoratively. Second, The types of Scytian waistband were excavated from the tumulus in the age of three states in Korea, and their form and function are same. Belt of the Joseon Dynasty carried below their chest and up navel, of which the wearing position went upper than before. As women jeogori was shorter, their belt is not necessary and various trinkets were put in their skirt. Finally, this study conclude that Korean traditional belt and trinkets come down from Scythian waistband.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.563-582
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• 2018

In ancient times, hairstyle varies according to tribes. Because it is a social product that depends on status, class, and gender within the tribes, research on the hairstyle is an important source for studying the culture of the tribes. The purpose of this study is to analyze hairstyle of the Scythians and to understand the culture of the Scythians. Furthermore, the purpose is to identify the ethnic group based on this research. And it is intended to use the results as a comprehensive resource for research on the origins of Korean ancient costumes. As a research method, literature study and artifact analysis were performed concurrently. Data for artifact analysis were taken directly from the Eremitage Museum in St. Petersburg, Russia, where the researcher visited for this study. The conclusions of this study are as follows: Hairstyle of the Scythians were classified into three types: straight hair, braided hair, and tied hair depending on social status, age, and region. Straight hair was usually seen with kings, royalty, and warriors, and the hair length varied according to their status. Braid hair appears by a depiction of an old man and young Scythians. Tied hair was observed in the warrior. The beard was divided into chin-beard and mustache. Long chin-beards and mustaches were mostly observed in the ruling classes, while medium length chin-beards and short mustaches were considered the most common form of beard because they appeared in most classes. The young Scythians, regardless of their status, had no beard.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.8
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• pp.81-99
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• 2012

This study aims to find out the trouser types of the ancient tribes after analyzing various types of trousers discovered on the reliefs of the Achaemenian period of Persia. Then use the results of the analysis as basic data for a study on the Korean trousers type during the ancient times. For this, a theoretical background on the ancient tribes is developed by referring to the literature documents of literature, and European archeologists' papers and photo data are collected and analyzed as well. In addition to the above data, the data, which have been collected by researchers through a field study are comparatively analyzed. In terms of width, the trousers of the ancient tribes have been divided into three types: narrow, average and wide. Each type has diverse forms. The trouser types varied depending on the tribes, the regions and the manufacturing dates of the reliefs. The narrow type was popular among Median, Scythian and Kappadokian, while the average type was frequently worn by Bactrian and Sogdian who lived in the highlands in the northeastern part of Iran. Lastly, the wide type was mostly found in the southeast of Iran(Arachosia, Aria and Drangiana). The fact that trousers were discovered together with boots has been useful in guessing the lifestyle of ancient tribes. Also, even within the same tribe, the form of the trousers and how they were worn changed depending on the time period.