• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.1 s.100
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• pp.32-43
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• 2006

Excavated fabrics from Papyeung-yun's tomb totals at 208 in their numbers. They comprised 118 pieces of silk tabby(紬), 16 pieces of thin silk tabby, 8 pieces of thin filament silk tabby (絹), 43 pieces of satin damask(段), 8 pieces of compound satin(金線), 1 piece of twill(綾), 1 piece of complex gauze(羅), l piece of simple gauze(紗), 4 pieces of cotton(綿布), 4 pieces of hemp(麻布) and 3 pieces of ramie(苧布). As shown in the preceding list, $95\%$ of all the items are weaved from silk. To list a few characteristics of excavated fabrics from Papyoung-Yun's lineage, there are A vivid gold-colored compound satin, a uniquely patterned satin damask, various silk tabbies, and 4-end complex gauze of Neoul that is women's head cover. To note, names of the fabrics used in this article are based on the information from the literatures and are as following silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby, filament silk tabby(絹), satin damask(段), compound satin(金線), complex gauze(羅), simple gauze(紗), cotton(綿布), twill(綾), hemp(麻布)and ramie(苧布).

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.51-58
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• 1999

The dimensional properties on polyester warp knitted fabrics with various lengths of underlap were studied. The results indicated that loop density increased with decreasing loop length and loop density of satin warp knitted fabric are a little higher than that of reverse satin warp knitted fabrics at a constant loop length. As the distance of underlap becomes shorter, the weight per unit area and thickness increases, the bulkiness decreases and the shrinkage of knitted fabrics become larger toward wale in satin warp knitted fabric and toward the course in reverse satin warp knitted fabric.

• Proceedings of the Computational Structural Engineering Institute Conference
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• 1997.10a
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• pp.35-41
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• 1997

Unit cell analyses were peformed to study the engineering properties of satin weave textile composites. Two 5-harness satin weave layers with fiber tow shifts were modeled by unit cells and repeating boundary conditions were applied at the outer surface of the unit cells. Multi-field macroelements were employed to consider the microstructure details and to effectively reduce computer memory requirements. Preliminary results indicated that the engineering properties of 5-harness satin weave textile composites can vary significantly according to the manner how the adjacent fiber tows were arranged in stacking.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.153-165
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• 2008

The methods used in determining the weaving period of the textiles comprises not only radiocarbon dating but also discrimination of the motif and the textile structure. This study surveys the variation of the structure and the characteristics of the patterned textile of the Joseon dynasty to determine the weaving period. The number of twill gradually decreased in the Joseon dynasty while satin weave became more popular and the non-patterned twill almost vanished after 1600 A.D. The patterned plain weave was started to weave from the beginning of the Joseon dynasty but this has been shifted to twill, satin weave, floated weave, or the textiles with combined techniques more than 2 kinds after 1800 A.D. For the twist of threads, the number of the fabrics with Z-twisted thread in the warp and the non-twisted thread in the weft showed peak in 1600 A.D. and gradually decreased afterward. After 1600 A.D., the textile without twist became general trend.The satin weave started to appear with the 5-end satin in the beginning of the Joseon dynasty but the 8-end satin started to appear from the middle of 17th century and got more popularity with time. At the same period, the patterned textile on the ground of the satin weaved with the different techniques from the earlier period started to appear. The twist of the satin in the 1600 A.D. showed similar trends as twill, this general trend resulted from the fact that the non-twisted thread in the weaving became more popular with the time at that period.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.9-18
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• 1999

In order to establish fundamental data for the betterment of Polyester microfiber fabric handle, a study by using fixed warp of ITY yarn samples with P/F, DTY, and ITY weft yarns was performed. For this purpose the samples of total 27 kinds were prepared. That is, each sample yarn was twisted in three ways and for each twisted yarn the fabric structures were modified in three ways, plain, twill, and satin. The examination was done by focusing on the point of the change of handles and the characteristics of the mechanical properties of the samples with the change of yarn and the fabric structure. The handles and the mechanical properties were examined with the KES-F system suggested by Kawabata. The results were as follows : 1. WT and MIU increased with increasing the twist. By comparing WT and MIU by yarn, DTY was higher than P/F. It appeared that twill and satin were higher than plain. 2. The bending rigidity change in DTY with increasing the twist was not significant, however in P/F it appeared apparently decreased with increasing the tlvist. Also, it appeared that when using P/F as weft the bending rigidity was higher than when using DTY and the twill structure appeared higher than the satin structure. 3. In shear force the increasing rates of plain and the twill were higher than satin. When DTY and P/F were used as weft, the shear force was higher in ITY and DTY than in P/F case. 4. Koshi appeared higher in the order of plain, twill and satin. When DTY and P/F were used as the weft Koshi increased with increasing the twist in plain, however in twill and satin it appeared to decrease. In hand value ITY(=7.5) appea.ed to be highe. than DTY and P/F(=6.5). 5. In all cases Shinayakasa decreased with increasing the twist. The hand values observed that satin was =4, twill was =3, and plain was =1.5. 6. Fukurami showed no significant change with increasing the twist in DTY, however in P/F and ITY it decreased.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.10
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• pp.1390-1400
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to categorize the type of fabrics and to analyze weaving method on the silk fabrics from ewongun's Tomb. The conclusions of this research are as follow. 1) Among the 26pieces of excavated clothes,98% of them were made of silk fabric and among them 84% used high-quality non-patterned silk I would assume, therefore, that the tomb was owned by a person who had a dignified yet humble tagte of higher society. 2) The weaving methods of textiles are plain weave, twil1 weave, satin weave. Plain weave includes spun silk tabby, fine filament silk tabby, raw silk tabby, thine silk tabby, damask on tabby, twill weave includes twill damask with different directions, satin weave includes non-patterned satin damask,5-end satin damask(4/1 warp faces ground, l/4 wok faced pattern). As the result of literature survey, I settled the names of textiles as follows; tabby was called Myunju, Saeju, Saengcho, and Sookcho according to the kind and density of silk threads used; Damask on tabby was ca]led Hwamunju) Twill damask was called Hwmunnung Satin damask was ca]led Hwamundan if they bear patterns by themselves or Mumundan if they don't have any patterns on them.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.429-439
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• 2000

This study was aimed to investigate the handle and mechanical properties of silk woven fabrics according to the fabric structure and yarn types 56 male and female students evaluated 16 black specimens with semantic differential scale of 20 hand adjectives. Mechanical parameters such as surface properties, bending properties and compression properties were tested using by KES-FS system. Data were analyzed through factor analysis, pearson correlation coefficient and t-test using PC SAS package. The results were as follows: The hand adjectives were grouped as 4 'surface roughness', 'flexibility', ;sense of thermal', and 'dryness'. 'Surface roughness' was highly sensed at satin fabrics of hard-twist yarn, noil yarn and spun yarn, while it was not at the fabrics of normal satin and twill at all. 'Flexibility' was reverse to 'surface roughness'. Thermal sense was felt highly at satin fabrics of noil-yarn, while low at plain fabrics of normal yarn. 'Dryness' was high at satin fabrics of hard-twist yarn and while it was low at normal satin fabrics. Predicted equations for subjective hand from mechanical properties of fabrics were developed using Stevens's law and stepwise regression and the coefficients of determination were high.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.143-155
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• 2013

This study examined the motif, weave structure, fabric density, and thread thickness of the patterned silks excavated from the Lady Lee's Tomb to trace the weave composition of the 18th Century in Korea. Different weave compositions were adopted depending on the weave structure. Two weave structures appeared in these patterned silks : simple gauze and satin damask. In the case of simple gauze Jergori, all the components, Gil(bodice), Somae(Sleeve) had similar fabric density and thread thickness. On the other hand, the satin damask Jergoris was composed of the components of different fabric density and thread thickness. According to the fabric density and thread thickness, the motif sharpness of damask Jergori was represented in three different ways : smooth and clear, rough and clear, and rough and vague. This revealed that Lady Lee selected not only pattern but also fabric density and thread thickness in the design of damask Jergori.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.65-74
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• 2003

The Purpose of this study is to investigate the jeogori included in the buddist statue in 1748. The jeogori was similar in shape to excavated costume of Andong Kwon, Papyung Yoon, and Chungyeongunju in 18th century. This jeogori was useful to estimate the interesting process of shape change of jeogori in 18th century. Four different silk fabrics were used in the jeogori. Outer fabrics were satin weave with floral, lattice strip, dragon, and cloud patterns. The ground area was 5-harness warp faced satin and the patterned area was 5-harness filling faced satin. An inner fabric was simple plain weave. Warp and filling yarns of all fabrics in this jeogori had no twist.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.17-24
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• 2000

The tensile properties of polyester warp knitted fabrics of satin and reverse satin structure with various lengths of underlap were studied. In the range of low tension, the satin warp knitted fabric showed larger tensile energy and elongation in the direction of $0^\circ$ and larger tensile linearity, tensile resilience and initial modulus in $90^\circ$. Meanwhile, reverse satin one showed larger initial moduli in 0$^{\circ}$ and larger the others in $90^\circ$. In the range of high tension, the tendencies of both fabrics in $0^\circ$ direction were almost the same as those in all direction. As the under laps were shorter for both fabrics, tensile linearity, tensile energy and elongation increased, but tensile resilience decreased in all directions. However initial moduli were changed little.