• 복식
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• 제64권6호
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• pp.78-90
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• 2014

This paper examines the way that the principles of coloration for Hoecha(繪次) and Sucha(繡次) were applied for shoe making in ancient China and Korea. Hoecha is the principle of drawing, and Sucha is the principle of embroidery. Hoecha and Sucha is the application principle of the five colors(五方色) from the five elements(五行: metal, wood, water, fire, and earth). Hoecha matchs a color with the opposite side color, and Sucha matchs a color with the beside color. A shoe consists of Sinul(body of shoe) and ornaments attached to it. According to the ratings of shoes, Hoecha and Sucha were differently applied for coloration of Sinul and its ornaments. In general, shoes were classified into Seok and Gu. For Seok, which was the high-ranked shoes, Hoecha was applied, while Sucha was applied to Gu, the low ranked shoe. As Hoecha was originally a principle of coloration for patterns on tops(jacket. 上衣), it was applied to the high ranked shoes i.e., Seok. Also, as Sucha was a principle of coloration for patterns on bottoms(skirt. 下裳), it was applied to the low ranked shoes i.e., Gu. Thus, black was decorated on red Seok, blue on white Seok, red on black Seok, yellow on hyeon(玄: a kind of black color) Seok, and white on blue Seok, all of which were applications of the principle of Hoecha. As the application of the principle of Hoecha to Seok was also done for red Seok for males and females in late Joseon, and red Seok for the crown prince in the period of the Korean Empire, black decorations were used for red Sinul. However, for blue Seok, worn by females in the period of the Korean Empire where Ming's systems prevailed, black decorations were used, which was an application of Sucha. Though there had been no discrimination between genders in the application of Hoecha and Sucha originally, the low ranked principle of coloration was applied to Seok for females.

• 복식
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• 제63권8호
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• pp.125-142
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• 2013

Soek(Xi) was the highest ranked shoe that was worn with the primary formal dress in East Asian countries including ancient Korea and China. This article examined Joseon's Seok as discussed in previous studies, and it explored factors such as the wearers' status, wearing situations, its morphology, its materials, and its colors in the Great Han Empire period (1897~1910), and then extracted three morphological characteristics of the Korean Seok to examine its origin. The results of the study are as follows. For women, the Seok in the Great Han Empire period was worn with Won-sam(圓衫) and No-eui(露衣) as well as Jeok-eui(翟衣), and hence its range of wearing was extensive. Also, red Seok was worn with deep red colored Dae-sam(大衫)-styled Jeok-eui in the Joseon period(1392~1897), and blue Seok with deep blue Jeok-eui in the Great Han Empire period. This suggests the possibility that wearing of deep blue Jeok-eui occurred after 1906 in terms of the use of blue Seok. As for its morphology, its leg-less form was maintained into the late Joseon period, and there were no great changes in its name. The characteristics of the Korean Seok's morphological structure consisted of a shoe leg, the wood-less bottom and pearl ornament. As a result of the examination of the origin of those characteristics, it has been clarified that the form in which Gu, Eok, Jun(純), are attached in the structure with a shoe leg originated from the combination of Hwa(靴) and Li(履) after the two types of shoes were alternately worn in the Song (宋) period. Also, it was confirmed that the woodless bottom appeared between the periods from Wei Jin Northern and Southern Dynasties(魏晉南北朝) to Sui(隋), and the pearl ornament occurred in the Jin(金) period.

• 복식
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• 제63권2호
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• pp.144-161
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• 2013

Seok, shoes worn for rituals that originated in China, is worn as part of a formal dress in Korea. The Seok for men were worn with Myeonbok(冕服: kingly ceremonial costume) and Wonyugwanbok(遠遊冠服) and the Seok for Jeokui(翟衣: queenly ceremonial costume) and Jangsam(長衫). Myeonbok, Wonyugwanbok, Jeokui and Jangsam were ceremonial costumes of ancient times. This paper examines Seok, which has never been the focal point of a study, and focuses on the period of Joseon(1392~1897). It was possible to concretely identify its changes in each of the periods and genders by means of the literature and picture data. It turns out from this paper that a unique Korean style emerged in the days of Kings Yeongjo(英祖: 1694~1776) and Sunjo(純祖: 1790~1834). The Seok that were imported from China after the Goryeo period included a neck part, which was a departure from its original form. However, during this period, fences were added on the top of the shoes, and rings were added to thread laces in Seok from China. Women wore their Seok in this period with different ornaments in accordance with the different situations.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제52권4호
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• pp.56-77
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• 2019

비석은 상례문화의 보고이자 서예사의 정수로서 시대사·사회사를 조명할 수 있는 중요한 문화재지만 그 연구는 아직 미미하다. 특히 비각의 제작 방식에 관한 것은 아직 미증유의 분야로 남아 있어 연구가 절실한 편이다. 비석의 제작은 석재의 탁마 과정과 조각, 그리고 글씨를 새기는 북칠 과정으로 대별할 수 있다. 본고에서는 이와 관련하여 몇 가지의 사실을 밝히고 있다. 첫째, 신과 관련한 의물(神儀物)인 상석, 혼유석, 비석에는 정교한 마정(磨正) 작업을 가한다. 이는 임진왜란, 병자호란의 영향으로 인한 유교적 상·제례의 정착과 전파로 혼유석에 대한 인식의 변화에 기인한다. 둘째, 영조 때 오석(烏石)의 비약적인 확산과 사저취용(私儲取用)은 사회·문화사적으로 큰 의미를 가지고 있다. 상품(上品)의 강화석이 고갈되자 사대부에서 사용하던 오석을 천릉한 장릉에 사용한 이후 사대부들을 중심으로 퍼지게 된다. 특히 오석의 사용과 마정 작업은 화학적·물리적 손상을 최소화시킬 수 있었다. 셋째, 비석의 각자 기술은 북칠(北漆)에 있다. 효종 영릉 천릉 시에 송시열의 지문을 북칠한 이후부터 북칠 과정은 동아시아에서 우리나라가 가장 성행했고 제도화된 점은 특기할 만하다. 북칠은 오석의 검은 색으로 인해 흑묵보다 붉은 당주를 이용하면서 더욱 정교화된다. 넷째, 조선 후기에 들어서면서 각자 방식에도 변화가 일어난다. 영조 연간까지 각자는 획의 두께에 따라 각의 깊이를 결정해 음영을 표현하고 양감을 나타냈다. 물론 이 같은 기법은 모든 표석이나 신도비에서 나타나는 것은 아니나 내수사에 소속된 뛰어난 경공장들의 전습에 의해 유지되었다. 따라서 비석을 제작하기 위해서는 숙석, 연정, 마정, 정간, 초도서입, 중초, 입각, 교정, 장황의 단계를 거쳐 하나의 완성품이 이뤄진다. 이러한 것은 묘주에 대한 존경심과 공업을 알리는 목적이지만, 이를 통해 공예 기능의 분업과 협업에 바탕을 둔 작업이 표석의 전체 제작 과정에 나타난다는 사실을 알 수 있다.

• 기계와재료
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• 제7권1호통권23호
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• pp.50-58
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• 1995

• 기계와재료
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• 제5권1호통권15호
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• pp.47-57
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• 1993

• 기계와재료
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• 제13권2호통권48호
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• pp.52-65
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• 2001

• 기계와재료
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• 제6권1호통권19호
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• pp.16-27
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• 1994

• 기계와재료
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• 제19권4호통권74호
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• pp.45-54
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• 2008

• 정보처리학회지
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• 제16권5호
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• pp.15-24
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• 2009