• Title/Summary/Keyword: SEOK

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Principles of Coloration for Hoecha and Sucha Applied to Seok (석(舃)에 적용된 회차(繢次)와 수차(繡次)의 배색원칙)

  • Choi, Yeon-Woo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.64 no.6
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    • pp.78-90
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    • 2014
  • This paper examines the way that the principles of coloration for Hoecha(繪次) and Sucha(繡次) were applied for shoe making in ancient China and Korea. Hoecha is the principle of drawing, and Sucha is the principle of embroidery. Hoecha and Sucha is the application principle of the five colors(五方色) from the five elements(五行: metal, wood, water, fire, and earth). Hoecha matchs a color with the opposite side color, and Sucha matchs a color with the beside color. A shoe consists of Sinul(body of shoe) and ornaments attached to it. According to the ratings of shoes, Hoecha and Sucha were differently applied for coloration of Sinul and its ornaments. In general, shoes were classified into Seok and Gu. For Seok, which was the high-ranked shoes, Hoecha was applied, while Sucha was applied to Gu, the low ranked shoe. As Hoecha was originally a principle of coloration for patterns on tops(jacket. 上衣), it was applied to the high ranked shoes i.e., Seok. Also, as Sucha was a principle of coloration for patterns on bottoms(skirt. 下裳), it was applied to the low ranked shoes i.e., Gu. Thus, black was decorated on red Seok, blue on white Seok, red on black Seok, yellow on hyeon(玄: a kind of black color) Seok, and white on blue Seok, all of which were applications of the principle of Hoecha. As the application of the principle of Hoecha to Seok was also done for red Seok for males and females in late Joseon, and red Seok for the crown prince in the period of the Korean Empire, black decorations were used for red Sinul. However, for blue Seok, worn by females in the period of the Korean Empire where Ming's systems prevailed, black decorations were used, which was an application of Sucha. Though there had been no discrimination between genders in the application of Hoecha and Sucha originally, the low ranked principle of coloration was applied to Seok for females.

Morphology of Seok in the Great Han Empire Period and the Origin of the Korean Seok's Morphological Characteristics (대한제국시대 석(舃)의 고찰 및 한국 석의 형태적 특징의 유래)

  • Choi, Yeon-Woo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.63 no.8
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    • pp.125-142
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    • 2013
  • Soek(Xi) was the highest ranked shoe that was worn with the primary formal dress in East Asian countries including ancient Korea and China. This article examined Joseon's Seok as discussed in previous studies, and it explored factors such as the wearers' status, wearing situations, its morphology, its materials, and its colors in the Great Han Empire period (1897~1910), and then extracted three morphological characteristics of the Korean Seok to examine its origin. The results of the study are as follows. For women, the Seok in the Great Han Empire period was worn with Won-sam(圓衫) and No-eui(露衣) as well as Jeok-eui(翟衣), and hence its range of wearing was extensive. Also, red Seok was worn with deep red colored Dae-sam(大衫)-styled Jeok-eui in the Joseon period(1392~1897), and blue Seok with deep blue Jeok-eui in the Great Han Empire period. This suggests the possibility that wearing of deep blue Jeok-eui occurred after 1906 in terms of the use of blue Seok. As for its morphology, its leg-less form was maintained into the late Joseon period, and there were no great changes in its name. The characteristics of the Korean Seok's morphological structure consisted of a shoe leg, the wood-less bottom and pearl ornament. As a result of the examination of the origin of those characteristics, it has been clarified that the form in which Gu, Eok, Jun(純), are attached in the structure with a shoe leg originated from the combination of Hwa(靴) and Li(履) after the two types of shoes were alternately worn in the Song (宋) period. Also, it was confirmed that the woodless bottom appeared between the periods from Wei Jin Northern and Southern Dynasties(魏晉南北朝) to Sui(隋), and the pearl ornament occurred in the Jin(金) period.

A Study on the Form of Seok(舃) in the Period of Joseon (조선시대 석(舃) 연구)

  • Choi, Kyu-Soon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.63 no.2
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    • pp.144-161
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    • 2013
  • Seok, shoes worn for rituals that originated in China, is worn as part of a formal dress in Korea. The Seok for men were worn with Myeonbok(冕服: kingly ceremonial costume) and Wonyugwanbok(遠遊冠服) and the Seok for Jeokui(翟衣: queenly ceremonial costume) and Jangsam(長衫). Myeonbok, Wonyugwanbok, Jeokui and Jangsam were ceremonial costumes of ancient times. This paper examines Seok, which has never been the focal point of a study, and focuses on the period of Joseon(1392~1897). It was possible to concretely identify its changes in each of the periods and genders by means of the literature and picture data. It turns out from this paper that a unique Korean style emerged in the days of Kings Yeongjo(英祖: 1694~1776) and Sunjo(純祖: 1790~1834). The Seok that were imported from China after the Goryeo period included a neck part, which was a departure from its original form. However, during this period, fences were added on the top of the shoes, and rings were added to thread laces in Seok from China. Women wore their Seok in this period with different ornaments in accordance with the different situations.

A Study on the Change of Materials and Fabrication Techniques of Stone Figures in Royal Tombs of the Joseon Period - Focusing on Shindobi, Pyo-Seok, and Sang-Seok - (조선시대 왕릉 석물의 재료와 제작 방법 변화에 관한 연구 - 신도비와 표석, 상석을 중심으로 -)

  • Cha, Moonsung
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.52 no.4
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    • pp.56-77
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    • 2019
  • Bi-Seok is a treasure trove of funeral rites and an important cultural asset that can shed light on the historical and social history of calligraphy, but research of the topic is still insignificant. In particular, research on the production method of Bi-Seok remains an unproven field. The production of Bi-Seok can be roughly divided into ma-jeong (refining stone), sculpture, and the Buk-chil (process of engraving letters) process. This article reveals some facts: First, performing ma-jeong to the Sang-Seok, Honyu-Seok, Bi-seok, which are known to be God's things. This process is needed because of the change in the perception of the Honyu-Seok due to the settlement and propagation of Confucian ceremonial rituals in the times of hardship in 1592 and 1636. As the crafting process of ma-jeong did not remain concrete, it was only possible to examine the manufacturing process of Bi-Seok through its materials and tools. Second, the rapid proliferation of Oh-Seok and Sa-jeo-chwi-yong (purchase of things made by private citizens) in the Yeongjo era has great importance in social and cultural history. When the Gang-Hwa-Seok of the commodity were exhausted, the Oh-Seok that was used by Sadebu (upper civil class) were used in the tomb of Jangneung, which made Oh-Seok popular among people. In particular, the use of Oh-Seok and the Ma-Jeong process could minimize chemical and physical damage. Third, the writing method of the Bi-seok is Buk-chil. After Buk-Chil of Song Si-Yeol was used on King Hyojong's tomb, the Buk-Chil process ( printing the letters on the back of the stone and rubbing them to make letters) became the most popular method in Korea and among other East Asian countries, and the fact that it was institutionalized to this scale was quite impressive. Buk-Chil became more sophisticated by using red ink rather than black ink due to the black color that results from Oh-Seok. Fourth, the writing method changes in the late Joseon Dynasty. Until the time of Yeongjo's regime, when inscribing, the depth of the angle was based on the thickness of the stroke, thus representing the shade. This technique, of course, did not occur at every Pyo-Seok or Shindobi, but was maintained by outstanding artisans belonging to government agencies. Therefore, in order to manufacture Bi-Seok, Suk-seok, YeonJeong, Ma-jeong, Jeong-Gan, ChodoSeoIp, Jung-Cho, Ip-gak, Gyo-Jeong, and Jang-Hwang, a process was needed to make one final product. Although all of these methods serve the same purpose of paying respects and propagandizing the great work of deceased persons, through this analysis, it was possible to see the whole process of Pyo-Seok based upon the division of techniques and the collaboration of the craftsmen.

폐유소각기술

  • Choe, Gap-Seok;Choe, Yeon-Seok;Kim, Han-Seok
    • 기계와재료
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    • v.6 no.1 s.19
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    • pp.16-27
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    • 1994
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