• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.493-503
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• 2013

This study analyzes expression methodology and aesthetic meanings in modern hair ornaments that adopt maximalism. Maximalism has appeared in various hair ornaments throughout history. Hair dresses are used for many reasons related to class, social position, religious beliefs, and occupation throughout the Eastern and Western hemispheres. A higher class and social position was often denoted by a fancier and bigger hairdress. In modern society maximalism is expressed in literature, expressionism, maxi-marketing, exaggerative advertisements, and symbolic architecture. Formative expression methodologies in modern hair ornaments that adopt maximalism are transform, overlapping & exaggeration, and mixing & edition. The aesthetic meanings of maximalism in hair ornaments are the reinterpretation of retro ornaments, the exaggeration of internal self-expression, humorous symbolic objects, and the conveyance of a social critical message. The advantages of maximalism help people communicate and co-provide an abundant life. These are expected to create significant and numerous positive impacts in society. In addition, the continued efforts on the investment in hair ornaments that express Maximalism well as a fashion trend shows that further study on the persistence, practicality and recognized design inconvenience in the aesthetic value are needed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.9
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• pp.18-28
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine the Characteristics of Fashion Trends($1996{\sim}2005$) of Korea by the trend elements - style, fabric and color. The results of this study are as followed. During 10years, 'modern(18%)', 'elegant(11%)' and 'romantic(10%)' styles were shown in order, and colors of YR(17%), Y(14%), R(13%) and PB(11%) were shown in order. Considering tones, m(16%), d(12%), gy(11%) and s(10%) tones were in the order of frequency. In the fabric trend 'elegant(19%)', 'modern(14%)' and 'natural(14%)' images showed the high frequency. Since 2000's, style trends and fabric trends were subdivided, and the contrary images coexisted. The trend images of 'natural', 'retro', 'manish' and 'fun' were mainly used in fabric trend, and 'romantic' and 'classic' images were frequently used in style trend. The changes of trend images in style and fabric have been similar until the early 2000's but the cycle of trend of style became shorter than fabric trend. Therefore the cycle of fabric trend should be changed to be a short term and subdivided in company with style trend.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.835-848
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• 2014

This study investigated the relationship between inner characteristics manifested through the characteristics of artistic styles and formativeness manifested through external expressions of architectural styles in the early Medieval Period and early Renaissance Period. The method applied to this study is as follows. First, a historical document research was conducted centering on academic theses, related books, and academic databases; in addition, a case study identified the aesthetic characteristics of women's clothes. The conclusion of this study is as follows. First, the following is the analysis of the relationship between the artistic mode and architectural formativeness in the early Medieval Period and early Renaissance Period that represent a turning point in artistic paradigms. Second, the inner characteristics and eclecticism of the artistic mode literally appear in the formativeness of architectural style in the early Medieval Period, and the eclecticism in the architectural style appears to be expressed through a combination with new styles based on the application of the retro mode such as the eclectic adoption of cultural styles of various regions based on the tradition and technology of ancient Rome. Third, the trend of the aesthetic characteristics commonly appear in the modern style of expression related to the aesthetic characteristics of western women's clothes in the early Medieval Period; in addition, the early Renaissance Period was analyzed as decorativeness and respectively manipulability.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.10
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• pp.156-168
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• 2007

Brands started to manufacture consumer-oriented products and look for active methods to appeal their brands to consumers, in the 1990s. As a result, actively adopting graphic design to clothing designs has recently become an important strategy among others. Graphic design has important significance in contemporary fashion design in the aspect that it has expanded the range of expressive methods by bringing over expressive methods of visual design, and has led to an increase in sales due to consumer satisfaction, but it has been vaguely handled together with textiles design, and research on the topic has been insufficient. Therefore this study aimed to clearly define the idea of graphic design based on documentary research, and analyze applying case and formative features of graphic design expressed in clothing, through case studies from 2004 to 2006, and derive the trends of graphic design expressed in contemporary fashion design. The results of this study are as follows. The common characteristics of images that reflect recent graphic design trends in fashion design are hand writing and irregular composition, and images that actively pursued these pointes were retro and craft images, and modern and sporty images reflected these graphic design trends in a comparatively passive manner. It is important to maintain style differentiation rather than indiscreetly adopting graphic design trends to clothing, and to appropriately apply trend characteristics of fashion design and other design areas. Expressive methods of design are expected to expand through appropriate application and development of graphic design, and can potentially provide a new solution to brand differentiation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.626-639
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• 2009

As the global trend of Retro combined with the tendency of individualism which respects dramatic change and diversity in the 21st century, Goth subculture of Korea developed into various popular styles. This study, noticing the influences of Goth to the Korean youth culture and fashion trends, intends to examine the current fashion trends to analyze the various aspects of the influences of Goth to the Korean youth culture. To do this, various documents and numerous Internet materials on the Korean Goth culture are comprehensively reviewed, and the Goth look images of popular stars, photographs from fashion magazines and fashion collections are gathered, analysed, and classified into types, and the specific characteristics of these types are comprehensively analysed. According to the result of this research, Punk Goth look, departing from the sensational and aggressive style of Punk look, expresses sexy and luxurious images, while Romantic Goth look shows the brilliant and cheerful style by mixing the cute girlish image and the elegant feminine image of exaggerated details and voluminous silhouette. Avant garde Goth look parodies Goth image by using the dramatic effects of Goth images or is expressed in performances. Sexy Goth look, which reveals the sexual attractiveness of men and women much more assertively, tries to do suggestive representation and excessive exposure of human body. Dandy Goth look, which has the simple and modern line, expresses the calm and chic feeling by employing basic items with minimized details and coordinating unique accessories for accent.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.2 s.101
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• pp.17-31
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• 2006

This study is tried to identify the changes in modern Hanbok for the past five decades through the literatures and actual materials such as the First Ladies' costume. In Hanbok fashion, there is a trend that influenced by politics, economy and culture just like in western fashion. After liberation from the Japanese colonialism, the most important factors in Hanbok fashion were economic factors caused by the development of textile industry and the dressing attitude of the First Ladies at that time. In 1950s, a modified Hanbok that is easy to wear was popular. It was partly because of the west oriented atmosphere after the Korean War and mainly due to the practical dressing attitude of First Lady, Francesca. In 1960s and 70s, former First Lady Yuk Young Soo who loved and had good taste for Hanbok led the fashion. At that time, high ranking female social leaders as well as general public usually wore Hanbok on formal occasions. Therefore, textile industry for Hanbok developed a lot and tailored shops that specialize Hanbok emerged. In 1980s, as the economy got better, Hanbok was upgraded and it became more luxurious. Traditional Hanbok was revived through a historical investigation. Additionally, the former First Lady Lee Soon Ja helped fostering a luxurious mood as she wore a Hanbok as a formal dress. After 1988 Olympic Games were successfully held, the importance of the traditional culture was emphasized in 1990s and Hanbok followed retro trend rigorously through the academic approaches including a dressing history. Hand painted and naturally dyed Hanboks were strong in this period. Former First Lady Kim Ok Sook's sophisticated Hanbok attire partially had effect on this mood. However, From the late 1990s Hanbok became less popular. It was partly because the former First Lady Son Myoung Sun and Lee Hee Ho preferred western style dresses and did not play a role as Hanbok fashion leaders.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.1-16
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• 2003

Nowadays, retro to the past fashion is appeared just as often as new challenge and trial. The style of Renaissance Era is the most often revival theme for contemporary fashion. So, this study was focused on 16C of Renaissance costume. It is investigated the characteristics of Renaissance costume through referring the literature to be able to restore the past costume as through as possible with the object of building database for developing new design. This study is done in two different ways at the same time, direct study to restore and indirect study to refer. Direct one is of the past costume as thoroughas possible based on referring to the originals. The other is referring the costume historical literature The costumes to restore is chosen among 16C famous pictures on the basis of how much they can show the typical chracteristics of 16C costume. Materials including textiles and ornaments which are necessarily to restore were shopped in Dongdeamoon Market. Some materials had a problem to get exactly the same one in Seoul on 21C. After visiting imes, the materials is chosen as similar as originals. Three sets of costume were restored on the basis of referring "Pattern of Fashion" written by Janet Arnold. The costumes were restored by reinforcing bodice based on the size of waist and in every three works. The way of sewing is based on hand sewing for details and machin-sewing for seam. Quilting intl lining is uwed giving the fabric stiffness to maintain the form from the heavy padding. Also the part of piles on margins is used darts instead of gather, because of reducing bulkiness of seam. General closing methods are hook and eyes, and lacing with points.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.433-448
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• 2019

Oversized fashion is again in the spotlight due to the influence of retro fashion. This has created new fashion trends with methods different from those of the past. This analysis examines recent trends by sorting these looks according to new and different methods of judging their appearance. A new categorization of the oversized look and its configurations has been created, one which separates "big" looks, partial changes, and layered looks. This research was based on historical review and previous studies. Three thousand one hundred thirty-six photos of oversized looks that have appeared in collections over the past five years were gathered, and their appearance was categorized according to type. The categorization results showed that big looks (55.1%) were most prevalent, followed by partial alterations (36.35%), and layered looks (8.45%). In comparison to prior oversized clothing production, new permutations of the "Big" look expanded the silhouettes of torso, shoulders, neckline and collar. Partial changes have expanded from the broadened shoulders of the 1980s. Today these styles expand the shoulders and armholes vertically or horizontally, which dramatically exaggerates the sleeves and collar. The layered look no longer simply features overlapping layers but takes the form of over-layering through cuts and insertions. Through such analysis it is clear that modern oversized looks break away from the simple expanded forms and production methods of the past. They now attempt to realize an exaggerated beauty of form regarding each clothing component and also maximize decorative effects through innovative drafting or sewing methods.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.8
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• pp.74-90
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• 2008

Since the late of 20th Century, philosophy, art, and aesthetics have attention to the movement of object that persue the dynamics and qualitative change, not existing fixed and quantitative object. Qualitative continuity, including discontinuity of specific spot and surface that occurs sudden change, is distinct characteristics considered in contemporary logo civilization, which combines and disperses according as various purpose among the different elements and objects. Therefore, I studied about the characteristics of qualitative continuity that creates the change and the differentiation continuously through the "formative characteristics of the continuity expressed in contemporary fashion" of my preceding paper. This paper is the following study of above mentioned paper, and Investigates about aesthetic consciousness leading to the various change. This is intends to consider the trans-aesthetic consciousness that accepts dynamic movement and change the different object and reforms new relationship continuously. This studies' conclusion is as follows; 1) sublimity-Infinity, de-constructive, excessive 2) jouissance - functional, structural 3) paradox-perceptual, spatial. A study about the trans-aesthetic consciousness would help to offer philosophical basis, and make a change building aesthetic foundation in explaining various relationship like as phenomenon of the retro, neo, post, fusion expressed since the late of 20th Century.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.73-86
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• 2001

This study aims at reviewing the Kitsch aesthetics, grasping the relation between the Kitsch and consumption culture, and pursuing the intrincis meanings and expressive characteristics of Kitsch in the hair style and head dress in the 1990s. Kitsch generally implies a vulgarity, and a bad taste, and can be considered to be a kind of vicarious experience, the aesthetic deception and self-deception. In spite of these negative inplications of Kitsch, the aesthetic categories of Kitsch have been spread to public and been accepted by the public, with the help of the powerful promotion of the modern day mass media. 1. The intrincis meanings of Kitsch convey 1) escapism, 2) conformity, 3) amusements, 4) identification. 2. The expressive characteristics of Kitsch represent 1) aesthetic inadequacy: hair style and head dress showing the imperpectness, accumulation(superfluous ornaments), vulgarity, untidines. 2) resistance: hair style and head dress featuring deconstructional and violent forms revealing the uneasiness, and unsatisfaction of the given regularity. 3) humor: hair style and head dress featuring the innocence, humor, and fun for a relaxation and diversion. 4) hedonism: hair style and head dress with the erotic and sexual feelings. 5) retro, romantism: hair style and head dress featuring the elegance, femininity, folklore, ethnic, and nostalgia.