The Research Journal of the Costume Culture (복식문화연구)

The Costume Culture Association (복식문화학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

An analysis of the construction elements of the "oversized" look in fashion collection since 2015

2015년도 이후 패션 컬렉션에 나타난 오버사이즈 룩의 의복구성 특성 분석

  • Kim, Kyung-A (Dept. of Fashion Design, Suwon Women's University)
  • 김경아 (수원여자대학교 패션디자인과)
  • Received : 2019.09.17
  • Accepted : 2019.10.10
  • Published : 2019.10.31
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

Oversized fashion is again in the spotlight due to the influence of retro fashion. This has created new fashion trends with methods different from those of the past. This analysis examines recent trends by sorting these looks according to new and different methods of judging their appearance. A new categorization of the oversized look and its configurations has been created, one which separates "big" looks, partial changes, and layered looks. This research was based on historical review and previous studies. Three thousand one hundred thirty-six photos of oversized looks that have appeared in collections over the past five years were gathered, and their appearance was categorized according to type. The categorization results showed that big looks (55.1%) were most prevalent, followed by partial alterations (36.35%), and layered looks (8.45%). In comparison to prior oversized clothing production, new permutations of the "Big" look expanded the silhouettes of torso, shoulders, neckline and collar. Partial changes have expanded from the broadened shoulders of the 1980s. Today these styles expand the shoulders and armholes vertically or horizontally, which dramatically exaggerates the sleeves and collar. The layered look no longer simply features overlapping layers but takes the form of over-layering through cuts and insertions. Through such analysis it is clear that modern oversized looks break away from the simple expanded forms and production methods of the past. They now attempt to realize an exaggerated beauty of form regarding each clothing component and also maximize decorative effects through innovative drafting or sewing methods.

Keywords

References

  1. Armstrong, H. J. (2011). Patternmaking for fashion design (Kim, J. S., Kim, Y. S., & Ryu, S. H. Trans.). Seoul: Yehaksa. (Original work published 1987)
  2. Baudot, F. (1999). A century of fashion. London: Thames & Hudson Ltd.
  3. Choi, J. Y. (2018). Analysis of the necklace design appearing in fashion collection. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 26(3), 296-312. doi:10.29049/rjcc.2018.26.3.296
  4. Choi, K. M., Lee, J. O., Lee, H. S., & Nam, Y. J. (2009). 어패럴 메이킹 여성복 재킷 [Apparel making women's jacket]. Seoul: Kyohakyeongoosa.
  5. Geum, K. S., Kim, M. J., Kim, Y. I., Kim, Y. H., Park, M. H., Park, M. Y., . . . & Choi, H. J. (2006). 현대패션 110년 [Contemporary fashion 110 years]. Paju: Kyomunsa.
  6. Giorgio Armani. (n.d). Power suit. Retrieved July 31, 2019, from https://www.designer-vintage.com/en/masterclass/article/giorgio-armani-s-power-suits
  7. Goude, J. P. (1981). Androgynous picture of Jones. Retrieved July 30, 2019, from https://designobserver.com/feature/exposure-grace-jones-by-jean-paulgoude/39032
  8. Holbein, H. (1537-1547). Henry VIII. Retrieved July 30, 2019, from https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/07/Workshop_of_Hans_Holbein_the_Younger_-_Portrait_of_Henry_VIII_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg
  9. Issey Miyake. (n.d). The concept and work of Issey Miyake. Retrieved July 31, 2019, from http://miyakeissey.org/en/history/collaborations/2011/tohoku/
  10. Jang, Y. J., & Park, J. H. (2016). An analysis on clothing construction of hips exaggeration-typed dress. Korea Design Forum, 53, 179-189.
  11. Kamali, N. (1981). Big look. Retrieved July 30, 2019, from http://www.fitnyc.edu/museum/exhibitions/sporting-life.php
  12. Kim, H. J., & Kim, S. J. (2005). A study of formative characteristics and symbolic meanings of the exaggeration type in modern fashion. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 13(6), 883-895.
  13. Kim, H. Y., Park, S. K., & Lee, E. J. (2017). Modernistic reinterpretation of stage costumes in the opera : Focusing on the decorative elements of the Rococo mode. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 25(4), 458-475. doi: 10.29049/rjcc.2017.25.4.458
  14. Kim, J. J. (2018). Conversion of art and mediated body in digital age: Focusing on the concept of extended body. Korea Design Forum 59, 167-178.
  15. Kim, J. Y. (2009). The over-sized look expressed in 2008 fashion collections. Proceeding of the 2009 Summer Season of Korean Living Science Association, 2009(summer season), 131-132.
  16. Kim, Y. J. (1998). 복식미학의 이해 [Comprehension of costume aesthetics]. Seoul: Kyungchoonsa.
  17. Kim, Y. R. (2007). The partial transformation of clothing construction in modern fashion. Journal of the Korea Fashion & Costume Design Association, 9(1), 103-122.
  18. Lee, H. C. (2012). 패턴의 정석 [Rules of pattern]. Paju: Kyomunsa.
  19. Lee, H. J. (2004). An analysis of internal meaning expressed oversize fashion of 1980's. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 54(6), 119-130.
  20. Lee, J. J., & Park, S. M. (2011). 패션, 문화를 말하다 [Fashion, say about culture]. Seoul: Yekyung.
  21. Lee, S. J. (2003). A study on expressed transformation in fashion: Focused on the exaggeration. Unpublished master's thesis, Kookmin University, Seoul, Korea.
  22. Lehnert, G., & Musgrave, F. W. (2005). Fashion (Park, S. J. Trans). Seoul: Yekyung. (Original work published 1998)
  23. Los Angeles County Museum of Art (2007). Bustle dress. Retrieved July 30, 2019, from https://collections.lacma.org/node/214491
  24. Oh, N. R. (2017). Expressional characteristics and amplification's type of fashion creator identity. Unpublished master's thesis, Yonsei University, Seoul, Korea.
  25. Park, E. K. (2019). Retro fashion in the 2010s: focused on 2014 SS-2018 FW fashion collections. Journal of Fashion Design, 19(1), 111-128. doi:10.18652/2019.19.1.7
  26. Park, J. H. (2012). Construction by types of broadened shoulder design. Korea Design Forum, 36, 409-420.
  27. Park, S. Y., & Kim, M. T. (2016). Maximalism characteristics expressed in Rei Kawakubo's collections. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 24(5), 626-641. doi:10.7741/rjcc.2016.24.5.626
  28. Poiret, P. (1911). Hobble skirt. Retrieved July 30, 2019, from http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O573989/fashion-design-paul-poiret/
  29. Stone, A. L. (1943). Stormy weather [film]. Retrieved July 28, 2019 from https://genevahistoricalsociety.com/fashion-and-clothing/zoot-suits/
  30. Sung, K. S., & Lee, S. H. (2004). The aesthetic consciousness of voluminous enlargement in the western costume: From ancient to the modern times. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 54(6), 101-117.
  31. Vogue. (2014, September 12). Spring 2015 ready-towear: Marc by Marc Jacobs. Retrieved August 10, 2019, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2014/09/12/ready-to-wear-2015-ss-marc-by-marc-jacobs/#0:2
  32. Vogue. (2014, September 22). Spring 2015 ready-towear: Sportmax. Retrieved August 9, 2019, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2014/09/22/ready-towear-2015-ss-sportmax/#0:12
  33. Vogue. (2014, September 25). Spring 2015 ready-towear: Lemaire. Retrieved August 13, 2019, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2014/09/25/ready-towear-2015-ss-lemaire/#0:31
  34. Vogue. (2014, October 1). Spring 2015 ready-to-wear: JC de Castelbajac. Retrieved August 5, 2019, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2014/10/01/ready-towear-2015-ss-jc-de-castelbajac/#0:10
  35. Vogue. (2015, March 2). Fall 2015 ready-to-wear: Antonio Marras. Retreived August 11, 2019, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2015/03/02/ready-towear-2015-fw-antonio-marras/#0:0
  36. Vogue. (2015, March 4). Fall 2015 ready-to-wear: Jacquemus. Retrieved August 8, 2019, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2015/03/04/ready-to-wear-2015-fw-jacquemus/#0:0
  37. Vogue. (2015, March 6). Fall 2015 ready-to-wear: Vetements. Retrieved August 5, 2019, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2015/03/06/ready-to-wear-2015-fw-vetements/#0:7
  38. Vogue. (2015, March 9). Fall 2015 ready-to-wear: Balenciaga. Retrieved August 12, 2019, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2015/03/09/ready-to-wear-2015-fw-balenciaga/#0:0
  39. Vogue. (2015, March 9). Fall 2015 ready-to-wear: Chloe. Retrieved August 12, 2019, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2015/03/09/ready-to-wear-2015-fw-chloe/#0:4
  40. Vogue. (2015, March 9). Fall 2015 ready-to-wear: Haider Ackermann. Retrieved August 9, 2019, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2015/03/09/ready-to-wear-2015-fw-haider-ackermann/#0:16
  41. Vogue. (2015, March 9). Fall 2015 ready-to-wear: Kenzo. Retrieved August 12, 2019, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2015/03/09/ready-to-wear-2015-fw-kenzo/#0:0
  42. Vogue. (2015, October 2). Spring 2016 ready-to-wear: A.F. Vandevorst. Retrieved August 12, 2019, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2015/10/02/ready-to-wear-2016-ss-a-f-vandevorst-collection/#0:29
  43. Vogue. (2015, October 2). Spring 2016 ready-to-wear: Vetements. Retrieved August 9, 2019, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2015/10/02/ready-to-wear-2016-ss-vetements-collection/#0:3Vogue
  44. Vogue. (2016, March 2). Fall 2016 ready-to-wear: Y/ Project. Retrieved August 11, 2019, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2016/03/02/ready-to-wear-2016-fall-yproject-collection/#0:4
  45. Vogue. (2016, March 7). Fall 2016 ready-to-wear: Balenciaga. Retrieved August 8, 2019, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2016/03/07/ready-to-wear-2016-fall-balenciaga-collection-2/#0:26
  46. Vogue. (2016, March 8). Fall 2016 ready-to-wear: Esteban Cortazar. Retrieved August 11, 2019, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2016/03/08/ready-to-wear-2016-fall-esteban-cortazar-collection/#0:7
  47. Vogue. (2016, September 28). Spring 2017 ready-towear: Saint Laurent. Retrieved August 11, 2019, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2016/09/28/spring-2017-saint-laurent/#0:2
  48. Vogue. (2016, September 30). Spring 2017 ready-towear: Chalayan. Retrieved August 13, 2019, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2016/09/30/spring-2017-chalayan/#0:11
  49. Vogue. (2016, October 1). Spring 2017 ready-to-wear: Acne Studios. Retrieved August 5, 2019, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2016/10/01/spring-2017-acne-studios/#0:2
  50. Vogue. (2016, October 1). Spring 2017 ready-to-wear: Emanuel Ungaro, Retrieved August 12, 2019, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2016/10/01/spring-2017-emanuel-ungaro/#0:17
  51. Vogue. (2016, October 4). Spring 2017 ready-to-wear: Stella McCartney. Retrieved August 9, 2019, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2016/10/04/spring-2017-stella-mccartney/#0:0
  52. Vogue. (2016, October 5). Spring 2017 ready-to-wear: Louis Vuitton. Retrieved August 9, 2019, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2016/10/05/spring-2017-louis-vuitton/#0:12
  53. Vogue. (2018, February 21). Fall 2018 ready-to-wear: Gucci. Retrieved August 11, 2019, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2018/02/21/ready-to-wear-2018-fw-gucci/#0:17
  54. Vogue. (2018, February 28). Fall 2018 ready-to-wear: Isabel Marant. Retrieved August 8, 2019, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2018/02/28/ready-to-wear-2018-fw-isabel-marant/#0:9
  55. Vogue. (2018, October 16). Spring 2019 ready-to-wear: Miu Miu. Retrieved August 12, 2019, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2018/10/16/ready-to-wear-2019-ss-miu-miu/#0:0
  56. Vogue. (2019, March 25). Fall 2019 ready-to-wear: Burberry. Retrieved August 13, 2019, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2019/03/25/ready-to-wear-2019-fw-burberry-2/#0:0
  57. Vogue. (2019, March 27). Fall 2019 ready-to-wear: Bottega Veneta. Retrieved August 9, 2019, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2019/03/27/ready-to-wear-2019-fw-bottega-veneta/#0:12
  58. Vogue. (2019, March 28). Fall 2019 ready-to-wear: Givenchy. Retrieved August 10, 2019, from http://runway.vogue.co.kr/2019/03/28/ready-to-wear-2019-fw-givenchy/#0
  59. Yang, M. K. (2000). The changes in subcultural styles I: Zoot style. Journal of the Korea Fashion & Costume Design Association, 2(2), 5-17.
  60. Yim, E. H., & Kim, M. J. (2003). A study on the subcultural style in the 1990s. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 53(3), 13-31.
  61. Zuccaro, F. (1575). The Darnley Portrait. Retrieved July 30, 2019, from http://www.luminarium.org/renlit/elizface2.htm