• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.27-42
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• 2010

It was in the fifteenth century in Italy that men began to talk of a rebirth in the arts and literature. Today we consider the period to belong to the Renaissance. We noticed the splendour of costume and the important role it played, in the life of Italian society in that period. From elsewhere in Europe and also from the East, dyestuffs came to Italy overland or in shiploads. Red and blue, notably kermes and madder on the one hand, and indigo and woad on the other were fundamental textile dyes in Italy. Saffron was used for yellows, oak galls for blacks. Renaissance Italian costumes' main color symbolized various meaning. Red symbolized high rank, affection, lady, redemption and various cardinal virtueses. Yellow was evaded color which was symbolized the lower class, betrayal, and gold. Green symbolized penniless, youthfulness, hope and love. Blue symbolized humbleness, sincerity, knowledge and the Madonna. Purple symbolized nobility, vice and various meanings. Black symbolized death, grief, beauty and elegance. These color symbols in the Renaissance Italian costumes were very similar to that of modern color symbols.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.19
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• pp.149-179
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• 2010

This article is concerned about the symbolic meaning of the transvestism Renaissance perspective through analysis of Triumph Over Persecution work and The Merchant of Venice, and Jealous Ioan Tornese. The transvestism is frequently present in the comedies of the golden age. A woman author Maria de Zayas has a special interest in female identity with critical and defying view. Also the subject of the transvestism in Spanish literature originated in Italian tradition. In Italian literature, there were two types of disguised women, who urge for love and warrior-heroine(amazon). Both types are also listed in Spanish literature. The dress-crossing heroine of Triumph Over Persecution displays a type of heroine, who corrects a male prejudice and reset a harmonious order. Shakespeare is also one of the Renaissance writers under the influence of the Italian Renaissance novel. Heroine of Merchant of Venice symbolizes a triumphant challenge against the blocks of the patriarchal system. In spite of the social system blocks, cross-dressing women may receive in the patriarchal scenes without problems. Based on the notion of paradox and irony, the Italian novel reflects popular psychology of the time when the link between the internal identity and social outside puts into question. The cross-dressing Torneses' wife, symbolizes the mockery or renaissance deception. Their deception emphasis on an ironic way in the point view of inhuman man who consider women material belongs to the man without any free-will. The costume of the characters make it possible to change their original identity into the other. From this point of view, we can say that the transvestism in these works could be interpreted in two ways: first, the destruction of the traditional categories of women's identity and second, the burlesque contempt on the patriarchal renaissance society.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.105-119
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• 2010

The style of costumes which dancers put on for dancing on a stage reflects the times, culture, and traditionality of movements in dancing. Accordingly, everyday dresses are adopted as the stage costumes in some cases and stage costumes lead the trend in other cases. Furthermore, like stage costumes in other genres, dancing costumes put more emphasis on expressive features in the functions of clothing unlike everyday dresses. In particular, dancing costumes shall sufficiently and delicately express each movement using the costumes as well as rhythms and melodies of music for dance. Ballet which is the representative western dance was derived from the world "Ballare" meaning "dance" in Italian. As shown in the change of word, ballet started in Italy. In Italy taking initiatives for all artistic activities in Europe as leading Renaissance in the 15th century, ballet started as the court dance and favored by French. Then, ballet flourished in France and was developed to the Romantic ballet in the 19th century. During the Renaissance, the early stage of ballet development the dancers put on the dresses which were in fashion at that time on the stage. The dancing costumes added the decorative features suitable for the characteristics of main actors or actresses and contents of dances to the dresses in fashion at relevant times in 17th and 18th century. "Panier", the dancing costume in the 18th century, was sensationally popular among women. As described above, the study on the features of dancing costumes by times not only arranges the costumes in each times but also investigates emotions and artistic and aesthetic values of those who lived in the relevant times. Furthermore, it is the way to experience the height of fantasy and beauty.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.149-166
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was illumination of the stage costume by applying the study of a subject of human expression, which establishes identity of dramatic characters. This study was conducted by referring a variety of theses, an extensive national and international literature. The color symbolism that is depicted in Shakespeare‘s work manifests the transition period of old days, which was influenced by the Renaissance and the Religious Reformation. And color preferences and the meanings I attach to them in his play, definitely reveal the Middle Ages Christian way of thinking which was obsessively dominated their mind. I also determine that the color preferences and use in Elizabeth Era also distinctively separate the social status, which were also influenced by its social conditions. Besides this, colors that were depicted in Shakespeare's work also shown many similarities from Italian Commedia dell‘arte, which were in vogue all over the Europe. Customary color symbolisms which from natural color experiences were also applied in "The Tempest". "The Tempest" was presented on the first day of November in 1611 for the first time. Following this, many plays and films have been produced in foreign countries and Korea. With an analysis of "The Tempest", costume designs for Miranda and Ferdinanad were illustrated at the end. The costumes for Miranda and Ferdinand were mainly considered to express pure love and vigorous youth of two lovers, symbolizing the image of the theme love, forgiveness, and reconciliation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 1979

This is a study on angels' costumes in religious paintings, especially as this relates to the questions of concepts and theological symbolism. Angels, as spiritual creatures in Christian thought, play the role of praising God's glory, as messengers of God, the role of guarding Israel and the Church, and protecting or punishing human beings. Sometimes the angels appear in incarnate form. They display no sexual differences and are not able to procreate. The angels' funtional classification being thus; nevertheless, they are pictured in various costumes and appearances according to characteristics of the paintings. The angel Michael appears as a man of dignity when pictured as a guard; the angel Gabriel in the annunciation is often portrayed as a woman of mystical beauty. Under the Renaissance, the mighty cherubim and seraphim at Yahweh's throne are degraded as plump child-angels, or winged child-heads looking alike Eros or Cupid. They have become playful and all too obviously non-heavenly chrubs, accepted features of the Temple decorations. However, cherubim are often depicted as naked or wrapped around with a piece of cloth and accompanied with wind, which symbolizes the Glory of God. The angels, costumes without seam are hung over or wrapped around the body, and when sewn they are simple and ample enough that they fall in a great many folds. However, by the 14C. angels are mostly dressed in costumes common to all Europe, and after that angels gradually appear in folk costumes; for example Italian, Flemish, etc. Dalmatic, the typical costume of Byzantine often shows up as angels' dresses even after the period. Originally the dalmatic was the Roman tunic to which Eastern influences added. The Roman clavus on the tunic had gradually lost distinction until, by the Imperial epoch, it was worn by the lowest servants. It was proudly therefore, as 'The servants of God', that the early Christians are shown wearing the clavus on their wide, ungirdled, sleeved dalmatics. In addition to their costume, angels have some other distinct charateristics. First, angels have a halo around their head; this symbolizes their holiness. Second, angels wear a narrow diadem or a queen's crown that seems to denote their glorious status close to God's throne. Third, the cloth band across the breast resembles a priest's stole, which suggests the sacred role of a priest and symbolizes the grace santified. Fourth, lilies in the annunciations are symbols of Mary's virginity. chastity, innocence and heavenly bliss. Angels hold palms or olives in their hands. The former denote prosperity. beauty and the Christians' reward after death; the latter represent peace and amity. the imperial crown made of olives means victory. Fifth, angels in paintings always have a pair of wings, which can be traced to scripture where cherubim and seraphim are described as having pairs of wings. Angels' wings often have colors of the rainbow, and the rainbow is compared to God's glory. Sixth, generally artists paint angels' costumes as white, blue, green, gold and purple. Other colors such as red rarely appear. According, to scriptures it is believed that angels should be depicted 'as white as snow'. According to the biblical expressions of angels as lightning, sun or a pillar of fire, angels should be described as creatures of light. Nevertheless being a form of art, religious paintings may differ in their presentation according to an artist's inspiration and intention. Since religious paintings illustrated above were almost all done before the Reformation, symbols of colors used in the Catholic Church will also be mentioned. The white color symbolizes chastity, purity, brightness, delight and divinity. Green represents new birth, eternal life, spiritual revival and the expectance of the grace of God. Blue, the color of sapphires, denotes chastity and truth. Red, the color of rubies, represents divinity, love and religious passion. Violet is the color of dignity, indicating the sovereign, royal or imperial power and the great Sacrifice of Christ. As mentionad above, angels' costumes were expressed in accordance with contemporary patterns or as indicated in the Bible, and accesories and colors correspond with Christian symbols. Therefore these facts should be taken into consideration when it comes to the study of costume history.