• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.53-64
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to help efficient use of marking system and more competitive products manufacture through the actual investigation into manufacturing process of apparel products. For lack of the previous study on marking, fundamental survey was performed on systematic research for pattern marking in ready-made production line Data were collected from 36 companies using Apparel CAD/CAM through questionnaire and interview. The data were analyzed by using Frequency and Crosstabs utilizing SPSS. The results were as follows : 1. Marking situation in clothing companies were examined ; 24 companies(66.7%) use computer marking, and 12 companies(33.3%) have both computer marking and hand marking. Besides only 9 companies out of 36(25.0%) have CAM in cutting process. 2. The efficiency in marking methods was also studied and the expense-saved ways were presented. we have found there is no difference in a way of the textural efficiency but the working methods of hand marking and computer marking. 3. Merits and demerits in marking methods were investigated. In case of marking two men's wear (Jacket and Pants), it takes 38 minutes by hand whereas it takes 15 minutes by computer ; for two women's wear (Jacket and Skirt) 49 minutes by hand, and 16 minutes by computer. 4. Most of the markers have less than 5 years experiences and among them most women are less experienced. They are in the mid-twenties after college graduations.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제4권
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• pp.21-45
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• 2004

The rapid development of science technology during the 20th century has greatly lowered the hours for labour, thus giving members of society extra time for leisure. With the increasement of leisure activities, sports casual wear has become one of the foremost leading items in the fashion industry, and among such sports casual, down wear has become the F/W season's most popular item. Because it generates high profits, many recognize it as a very important factor in lady's wear. Since the 1990's, down wear was widely applied to various sections of lady's, men's, and children's wear, and it has ceased to be limited to sports casual only. The purpose of this study was to fully understand the characteristics of down, and to develop crossover garments design desired not only in the F/W season but also the S/S season. It has been taken into consideration that many restrictions in sewing technique and material selection in manufacturing down as a fashion product exist when choosing a means of manufacture. That was why this study focused on the history and characteristics of down while analysing the works of domestic and foreign designers to concretely applicate them in fashion products. This study has divided the resulting down wear products according to consumer preference： vest, jacket, coat, one-piece, and skirt to applicate design manufacture of lady's wear in general, while designing and making artistically expressed down wear. There were 48 works developed as a result of this study, of which 41 were ready-to-wear, and the remaining 7 works were creative art wear.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.50-61
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• 2002

The manufacturer first identifies a target market before developing a sizing chart. A target market is specific for age or figure type. The purpose of this study is to evaluate the suitability of sizing system of women's apparel brand in Korea. For this purpose, the characteristics of the manufacture's sizing chart for jacket and skirt/pants were analyzed. For each brand, the target age of the brand and the age of consumers who preferred that bland were compared. The size charts collected from 27 women's apparel brands were analyzed and compared with Korean industrial standard sifting chart. The results of this study reviled that the body proportion in many manufacturer's sizing chart does not correspond to the body types in Korean industrial standard sizing chart. This trend was apparent for the short figure sizes made for women 155cm in height. There is a difference between the target age in brand concept and the age of consumer preferring to purchase that brand apparel. The age of fitting models usually does not correspond the customer's age. It was concluded that the age of target customer does not go well with the age of brand concept nor the fitting model age caused fit problem of the women's ready-made clothes.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.746-754
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• 2016

This study aimed to investigate the status of ready-made suit and MTM (Made-to-measure) suit production with 10 men's suit brands turning over 200 billion won. Their target age group is late 30's to late 40's. Regarding production for the ready-made suit, eight out of 10 brands are using both KS and their own sizing. Classification of body shapes was done in 8 brands, mostly for upper body in simple ways (lean, normal, and obese). All brands are conducting fittings on only standard size. The number of sizes produced is varying depending on the brands; 9 to 17 for a jacket and 9 to 20 for a pair of pants. Regarding on the MTM production, four out of 10 brands have implemented MTM production. The rate of MTM production to their total production is about 15-20%. There were positive opinions on MTM production since it enables to reduce stocks through a small quantity of production for necessary sizes only. The reasons of orders of MTM production were answered as 'no size available', 'unique body shape', etc., and most orders were placed by consumers who are fat-bellied or have thick thighs. They have used MTM automated CAD software developed by Gerber Technology or Investronica. All the brands have utilized automated marker-making software and cutting facilities for MTM production.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.617-627
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• 2020

This study investigates the apparel sizing communication presented in online retail websites focusing on women's ready-to-wear tailored jackets and to analyze the meaning of these information as the actual product size guide factor. A total of 34 retail websites were selected based on the highest growth fashion companies list and the best fashion brands list. We collected size information in two types: size specifications including sizing code, body measurements, garment measurements, and size references including customized size guide tools, size information in customer reviews, model size information, and others. Most websites prefer to present garment measurements rather than body measurements that are recommended notations under Korean standards and related regulations. In addition, there was the absence of consistency in presenting measurements list and terms that can confuse consumers in size communication. This study found that the stature measurement was a key factor in size reference despite that it did not represent a proper garment size. The obsolete Korean numbering sizing code such as '55 and '66 was still used in many ways such as idiomatic expressions for body shape. It also implied that we can take advantage of the old sizing code for accessible size information. The finding of this study gives an in-depth diagnosis of current online sizing information problems and suggests useful basic data for developing online apparel size standards and marketing strategies.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권6호
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• pp.1069-1078
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• 2001

Pattern grading is a technique used to increase or decrease the size of a garment pattern according to the measurements in a given size chart. The original pattern is graded and laid out for cutting before mass production. This study tried to classify body types for pattern grading of jacket by applying a concept of "drop"defined as the difference between chest girth and waist girth and the difference between hip girth and waist girth for pants. Data were collected through the stratified sampling method. 138 subjects were selected out of 1,290 subjects of our sample population. Findings were as follows : 1) For pattern grading of jacket, the cell with the chest girth of 96cm and the waist girth of 87cm had the highest frequency rate and body type was 87H type and the coverage of this type was 9.52%. Then, the size specification 87-96 was the center of distribution. H type had seven ones such as 72H, 75H, 78H, 81H, 84H. 87H and 90H. H type had 33 observations and frequency ratio of 26.19%. Same types could be graded up and down from the reference size for the age group. And this reference size became to the starting point for developing the grading system. 2) For pattern grading of pants, fatty types, H10 type had six ones such as 80H10. 82H10, 84H10, 86H10, 88H10 and 90H10. H10 type had 28 observations and frequency ratio of 20.29%. H6 type had 6 ones such as 84H6, 86H6, 88H6, 90H6. 92H6 and 94H6. H6 type had 27 observations and frequency ratio of 19.57%. If lower body types were classified as same ones, these types could be graded up and down proportionately.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.13-24
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• 2000

The purpose of this research is to offer basic data for study of men's suits by investigating the wearing conditions of men's suits. For data collection, a questionnaire was composed of a number of times and the reason of the suit wearing, and a number of suits they posses etc. The subjects of this research were male who aged 20-59 and resided in Seoul and the capital region. The results of the research are summarized as the following : 1. The mean age of suit wearing for the first time is 22.7 years old. The younger began to wear the suits earlier than the older. 2. A number of times of suit wearing for a week is more than 5 days mostly. Being educated higher, the ratio of suit wearing is getting higher. And In the case of job, office men, sales men and men whose job of specialization are wearing suits many a time more than a graduate student and a technician. Most of tne men especially 30's$\sim$40's is wearing the suit as a working garment. 3. Most of men is wearing jacket, dress-shirt and necktie in spring and fall, dress-shirt and necktie in summer, and jacket, vest, dress-shirt and necktie in winter. 4. As a general rule, men have about 2 suits for spring/fall and winter, and about 1 suit for summer. Also male has more than 6 ready-made suits and about 1 custom suit. The last, men almost do not use the suspender with suits.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.42-53
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to investigate donning and doffing independence of the disabled individuals. The subjects of this study were who had kinetic disabilities on upper-limbs. 31 women and 38 children were participated in the survey. They were classified with six groups according to their upper-limbs' kinetic ability levels. Three upper-limbs' kinetic abilities were adopted: Lifting arms up to the chest, twisting shoulder to throw arms toward the back, and buttoning clothes by oneself. The independency of donning and doffing of 14 upper-body garment styles were evaluated by subjects. The donning and doffing independency of 14 garment styles was significantly differentiated by the level of kinetic abilities and garment styles. The person who able to button clothes by oneself could don and doff clothes by oneself. The results also revealed that the independency of donning and doffing was significantly different between cerebral palsy and apoplexy groups. The persons having a stroke of apoplexy were more likely to be able to dress independently than the persons with cerebral palsy. The persons with a paralysed arm were more likely able to wear ready-to-wear clothes of various styles. The donning and doffing independency was also significantly differentiated by the styles of garments. The tight fit style garments were more difficult to be dressed independently than the loose fit style garments. The jacket and shirts, which were buttoned from neck to bottom, were more difficult to be dressed independently than T-shirts.

• 복식
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• 제55권2호
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• pp.1-17
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• 2005

The realistic plan to establish a silver market in the clothing industries has not taken concrete shape, although the interest in the establishment of a silver market targeting the aged as a new custom group Is gradually Increasing because the rapid development of science and medical technology in the 20th century has led to an extension of lift and improvement of living conditions. The specialized business which produces and sells the clothing for the elderly is of small number and most of the clothes for the elderly are manufactured and sold by the companies for women's clothing in which change the size or length of the original works rather than reflect the bodily features of the elderly. The findings indicated that domestic brands showed the coordinated concept of a suit of jacket and slacks or skirts while the clothes were formed with a variety of coordinations centering around single article in the U.S brands. But, there was no difference in the use of natural materials centering around cotton and silk etc. and in the use of embroidery, lace and decorative details between the two countries. The knit brands of knit suit style in Korea were formed with the items focused on pull over and cardigan twin set, while the U.S brands were mainly formed with the design of knit suit style. The domestic knit brands were mostly developed with complicated patterns and gorgeous colors, while most of the U.S. brands were presenting a single or two tone color suit style and evening one-piece dress with a simple and modern style. The sporty casual brands of sporty casual style in Korea had a variety of colors and patterns focused on function and comfort for diverse leisure activities and daily life, while the U.S brands were established to present a variety of styles with the items of single article because they had a separate brand for casual even though it was not a exclusive brand for the elderly This study has a meaning in the presentation of the design idea considering the bodily shape of the elderly compared to the ready-to-wear considering the size alone, by examining the characteristics of bodice according to the physical change of the elderly women, analyzing the design of madam brand and the style of the ready-to-wear, researching the general circumstances of the brand for the elderly women, and highlighting the necessity of the elderly clothing market.