• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.319-335
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• 2002

Nongae was the official Kinye(관기) who had exhisted, her portrait was enshrined at an ancestral tablet hall beside Choksukloo. This portrait of Nongae was a work of a painter, Un Ho-Kim. In any case, a study on the costume of the portrait of one person must be taken the costume of the period. This study investigates the character of clothing style in King Sunjo 26(1593) and in her present portrait. And so, her portrait who was enshrined at the place didn't agree with it's clothing in King Sunjo 26(1593) The results of this study are as follows : The portrait of Nongae took the costume style of the beginning of about 1910. and so this style was different from the style of costume, King Sunjo 26(1593). The style of costume, King Sunjo 26(1593) : Jacket : It's jacket was long(near hip) and broad, it's sleeve length was long, it's form was a straight line. Skirt : It's skirt was very long. It's silhouette was formed a soft line The costume of the figure in this picture in wrong from historical point of view. And so, the costume of Nongae in the portrait must adjust it in the clothing style of about 1593.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제46권1호
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• pp.147-164
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• 2022

The aim of this study was to reproduce the ordinary attire of Yi Seung-hyu, a civil official and writer of the late Goryeo, which will be used to make a his portrait. The reproduced costume consists of a single-layered pyoui (表衣) and jungdan (中單), lined jeogori and baji, and geon (巾), created with reference to historical documents, materials, and portraits. The pyoui was made with samcheokbe, with an H-shaped neck-shoulder band, an oblique single collar, and rectangular gussets. Two skirts were attached on the inside at the back, similarly to dopo. The jungdan also has an oblique single collar, but has an I-shaped neck-shoulder band and triangular gussets. A flat felled seam stitch, whip stitch, and French seam stitch were used in the hemlines and seams of the pyoui and jungdan. The jeogori and baji were made with toju (土紬), and small ties were attached to stabilize them. The geon is a long, oblique hat, which has folded side lines, and was made with flexible black hangra and using a French seam stitch and backstitch. The results include the elements of "restoration, historical research, and portrait costume", and will be maintained as the cultural heritage of Samcheok City.

• 복식
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• 제5권
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• pp.23-40
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• 1981

Jin Chung Sa is located Daeyoli, Jigogmyen, Saesangun, Choongchungnamdo, there are equipped a portrait scroll of Jung Chung Sin. And top of the town hill live in his 13th grandson, Jung Jong Sul. There are his portrait scroll and command flag and a suit of mail. According to say, remains was stollen at 1975 and it found again. But helmet thrown in the sea at the present time lceave only photo. Also, Chung Ryul Sa is located Anrakdong, Dongraegu, Pusan city, there are portrait scroll of died at the Dadaepo and Pusan Jin Sung and Dongrae Sung. Same memorial center is display mail of vice-envoy and inspector. Thus, this copy is refer to mail of Jung Chung Sin and Chung Ryul Sa, besides we will study mail production of Chung Ryul Sa possession. Even if they are bad to condition, I found court rank of mail through it. I hope, in the future, at that find a good data.

• 복식
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• 제62권8호
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• pp.55-70
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• 2012

In 16th century, during renaissance time, Britain's queen Elizabeth I, as a means to express her authority, had an exaggerated clothing styles and was the fashion leader of the time. Thus, through a media of Cinema, tried to find out the characteristics and different aspects of the history of clothing styles, of how they changed, ascertained, restored, and reappeared in the modern time. The research was based on the consideration of Elizabeth I's 33 portraits and her clothing styles; and the research is also from analysing the movies from 1937 to 2007, a total of 9 Cinema and 102 clothes. Movie costumes' most important mission is representing the cinema's timely and spatial background. Thus, it is inevitable that ascertaining and restoring Elizabeth I's portrait should be done. However, the movie costume has to show her dramatic lifestyle, dignity, absolute authority, and other visual images. In addition, the costume has to contribute in making artistic effect and thus the creativity of a designer to satisfy all these needs should be added. Based on the findings from the research, the characteristics of Elizabeth I's Cinema costume are first, ascertaining and restoring portraits, second, mixture of silhouette and detail depending on time period, third, partial change on clothing style design, fourth, emphasis of ruff collar, fifth, magnification colors, sixth, avoiding excessive swelling and decoration, and applying modern style on Protective costume. Thus, based on the research, creative design in Cinema clothing, plays an important part in the history of clothing design. I hope this research could work as a foundation reference for clothing design's history.

• 복식
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• 제60권1호
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• pp.135-144
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• 2010

This study is on the reproduction of King Sejong's costume presented in at the National Classical Music Institute in the late of 2008. The performance was presented focusing on the idea of ceremonial music of hoi-ryeyeon produced in the reign of king(1433). The reproduction of King Sejong's costume was undertaken to keep pace with the times and to pay due regard to the performance costume. The implications of the study are as follows. King Sejong's Hoi-ryeyeon ceremonial costume is a royal robe(gonryongpo), the best one of king's clothing. The basic type of gonryongpo is that of fastening four yongbos to danryoung. The type of gonryongpo is, therefore, made with reference to unearthed articles and portrait of the first king of the Yi dynasty. The yongbo is larger one than the late period of the Yi dynasty in the light of portrait of the first king of the Yi dynasty. The supporting type of gonryongpo is that of gonryongpo, dapho, and chulrik, king's dress granted by Myeong dynasty. In the late period jikryeong was used as supporting dress and fixed to be lining and included jikryeong. Therefore the order of supporting dress was jikryeong, dapho and chulrik and was reproduced with reference to unearthed articles in the early Yi dynasty, as did the small piece of crown, belt and shoes.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권12호
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• pp.1409-1417
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• 2011

This study examines King Louis XVI costumes and his portraits according to symbolic meanings. This study analysis of costumes comes from portraits related various domestic and overseas literature, preliminary study papers, and web sites. Omnipotence, activity, nobility, openness and benevolence were distinguished in the symbolic meaning expressed in the portraits of King Louis XVI. Louis XVI in a portrait was drawn with god or expressed as a martyr and symbolically showed the omnipotence of god. Louis XVI was symbolized as almighty god by maximizing the authority and dignity of the king through the hands of justice that were used as a background or portrait accessory and a costume with the symbol of House of Bourbon. Kings of many generations were expressed as authoritative through portraits. However, Louis XVI showed a proletarian aspect in ordering portraits to reflect the daily working image of communicating with citizens. Active images such as the king riding a horse or administering the state affairs were emphasized in a political and military perspective; in addition, the benevolence of the king was symbolically presented through a family portrait. This symbolically signified that the king is a warm-hearted person who passionately takes care of state affairs and loves the people through a noble element coming from pastel colors and attributes of red colors. Historically, the political incompetence and indifference of kings was fragmentally emphasized; however, these portraits considered the king as one who tried to fulfill duties as the true king with a great interest in politics and the people.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2016

The purpose of this study was to examine the influence of elderly women's makeup behavior, psychological traits and demographic variables on their preference for makeup images in daily life(hereinafter called general makeup image) and for the makeup images of their own future funeral portraits. As for the method of research, a research study was implemented by using the questionnaire method. Seven factors were selected for makeup behavior: fashionability, conformity, subjectivity, instrumentality, interpersonal orientation and conspicuousness. The selected psychological traits were personality, death attitude and depression. Preference for general makeup image and for the makeup image of funeral portrait were investigated in terms of four: agreeableness, refinement, individuality and dignity. The subjects in this study were 651 female elderly residents in and around Seoul who were in their 60s to 80s. Concerning data analysis, factor analysis, Cronbach alpha coefficient, Pearson productmoment correlation coefficient, t-test, one-way ANOVA, Duncan's multiple range test and multiple regression analysis were utilized. Concerning the influence of the elderly women's makeup behavior, personality, death attitude, depression and demographic variables on preference for the makeup image of funeral portrait, their preference for an agreeable makeup image was analyzed. Thus, makeup behavior, personality, death attitude and depression were identified as the variables to exert a significant influence on preference for the makeup images of funeral portrait. The findings of the study are expected to help make makeup for funeral portrait entrenched as a part of the beauty industry and to make a contribution to the development of the beauty industry.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.81-93
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• 1993

This study concern abut the general costume of women in Rubens' works. And costume which expressed in rubens' Portrait works, was studied from the viewpoint of the Psychological. Most of the element of Renaissance costume had survived in the early of 17 century, thus women's costume were still voluminous. The influence of fashion leader nations in the europe was very great, the fashion of these nations show in a great number of nations' costume.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.74-84
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to examine symbolic meanings of costumes shown by portraits of King Henry VIII and use them as basic data for research on costume design of historical dramas in the Renaissance or on King Henry VIII's costume. This study attempted analysis of symbolic meanings from the paintings-related various domestic and overseas literatures, preliminary study paper, and web sites etc. The symbolic meanings expressed by the portraits of King Henry VIII are characterized by authority, innovation performance, authority, masculinity, innovation performance, artistic taste, intellectual charm, intrepidity and benevolence. Especially, the portraits of King Henry VIII symbolized his masculine beauty by emphasizing sexual attractiveness that cannot be seen in portraits of other kings through broad shoulders and exaggerated codpiece which are the zenith of masculine beauty during the Renaissance age. Through the image of King Henry VIII which was painted with jester or barber surgeons, his characteristic and open mind thinking highly of the technique and human life was also expressed. In the portrait of King Henry VIII, various images set in knights' tournament, playing a musical instrument and reading a book as well as the image of wearing a parliament costume were shown, highlighting King Henry VIII as a person good at both literary and martial arts with open and innovative personality than any other kings in history.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.243-252
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• 2003

The study was designed to review the changes in designs and the manufacturing methods of french hood, one of the headdresses which play an important role in showing the appearance of costume, to understand design expression techniques through manufacturing of the head dress of the western costumes, and to provide materials to exert creativity for new designs. Based on literature review and portrait study, 1 manufactured a frenchhood. I set the study cope as from the late 15 century when frenchhood was used for the first time, to the mid 16 century. For the frenchhood selected, 1 examined the hair style, the characteristics of the french hood, and the pattern first, and proceeded to manufacturing. 1 used velvet and silk for the textile as explained in the literature. And, 1 purchased such similar ornaments as shown in the pictures, making the color so similar to the original to the most. Dimensions in manufacturing were those In the literature, since the study is focusing on the reproduction of the features of the portraits. Dimensions of detailed decoration were measured using the ratio of the headdress in the portraits.