• 복식
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• 제66권3호
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• pp.93-106
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• 2016

The aims of this study are to elucidate the relationship between the luxurious trends of costumes and the importation of Ming's patterned textiles in the $17^{th}$ century, and to analyze the similarity between certain Joseon and Ming fabric patterns. After Imjinwaeran[임진왜란] and Byungjahoran[병자호란], more diverse Joseon textile patterns appeared. Generally, wars lead to a shortage of luxury goods and basic commodities. However, $17^{th}$ century Joseon had an abundance of luxury goods, which allowed even some commoners to have clothing made of Chinese silk. That was the result of free trade between the Koreans and the Chinese merchants in Joseon. Ming's merchants followed the Ming's troops into the Korean Peninsula and targeted Koreans to sell their goods, such as fur coats and fur hats. Free trade between Ming and Joseon took place at Junggang [중강] and Donggangjin [동강진]. Joseon imported Chinese textiles there and resold them to Japanese merchants. Some of the Changgi Chung's excavated fabrics might be an evidence of the import from the Ming. These fabrics had the inscription and were similar to Ming fabrics. It can be assumed that trade occurred between Joseon, China, and Japan, as fabrics found in the countries had similar patterns such as flower, bee, and four seasons, which represented longevity. Furthermore, Chinese fabrics might have triggered Joseon's weaving skills to develop, which led to the ability to weave refined and beautiful brocade satin at Sangbang [상방]. According to Uigwe[의궤], Sangbang could weave silk fabrics in the 1620s and 1630s. The improvement of weaving techniques might make it possible to weave some popular patterns at Sangbang.

• 복식
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• 제66권3호
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• pp.1-17
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• 2016

This study examined and analyzed the women's jeogoris in the Seoul Gwangjang Market and Busan Jin Market. They study explored the items to look into the current state of the Jeogori patterns, as well as investigate the flat pattern jeogoris, including its source and aspects of change. Korean women's body figure has become more westernized, and the purpose of this study is to investigate the effects of this change on the traditional jeogoris. We hope to gather valuable data, which can be used to propose a new direction for designing hanbok in the future. The study methods are as follows: First, the types of jeogori patterns were examined. Second, the current state of jeogori patterns in the Seoul Gwangjang market and Jin market in Busan were analyzed to look into how the patterns have transitioned. And lastly, the reason for the origination of the flat pattern jeogori and the type of changes will be examined. Current study results show that two pattern types are being used: the flat composition jeogori and the flat pattern jeogori. Surveys show that more than 90 percent of the jeogoris in the Seoul Gwangjang Market are of the flat composition pattern variety, while more than 90 percent of jeogoris in the Busan Jin Market are of the flat pattern variety. In 1998, western-style dress designers in Busan introduced the flat pattern jeogoris, which were used to get rid of the wrinkles caused by the extra space, into the market after the financial crisis period in Korea, as a way to revitalize the market. This new pattern was popular among tea aficionados and traditional Korean musicians. It was exposed to the public via different mediums, such as TV programs, magazines, and brochures. Busan was the first to be exposed, and then it spread to Seoul. It also seems that the reduction of production cost caused the increase of the flat pattern jeogori.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.77-94
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• 2015

Due to the inflammatory of body exposure it did not become popular to the Korean nation but the body painting as a body art is definitely required for it be become a new pure artwork. In this body painting color is the core factor for visual part and expression and coloring obtained from the color is very important in creating effective image. In Korea beauty industry the researches are limited to the study on coloring expression of general beauty makeup. Therefore, this research analyzes color images in recent body painting artworks by defining characteristics of colors and coloring applied by theme. For the research subjects, dominant and secondary colors were extracted from the artworks presented in preliminary and final rounds of year 2012 and 2013 World Body Painting Festival. For the selection of final coloring stimulation the most frequent coloring by theme was first chosen. Among them, 2 individual coloring bands were selected by theme among the high frequency colors. For the analysis of coloring image shown in body painting works total 8 coloring bands were created and they were compared and analyzed by indicating each divided coloring band on the coloring image scale by theme. In this research coloring image analysis was done after examining colors and coloring of artworks presented in World Body Painting Festival by theme. This research has its meaning that it provides information and guideline for coloring design work of body painting by analyzing coloring image used in color and coloring of body painting by theme.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.58-73
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• 2013

In China, the phenomenon called 'Korean Wave' has boosted the interest in Korean pop culture, such as TV drama, music and films, and even in the general culture and society. As Korean singers, movie actors and talents become popular beyond acceptance of public culture, those who learn Korean, buy Korean products and visit Korea have emerged. Especially, most Chinese women have used Korean hair cosmetics and the interests in Korean hair cosmetics are increasing, since cosmetic companies entered China early due to Korean wave. Thus, the status of purchase of Korean hair cosmetics is growing day by day in China. In particular, since the environment is established to buy hair cosmetics easily in Myeong-dong which is one of the shopping tourism special districts, many Chinese tourists are crowded there. Based on such phenomenon, this study explored the differences in perceptions towards 'Korean Wave' among Chinese tourists who purchased Korean hair cosmetics in Myeong-dong, and analyzed the factors that largely determine the interest in Korean hair cosmetics and their purchase behavior. Therefore, this study is aimed at contributing to the development of hair cosmetics products and the market amid Korean Wave. As the research methods, 100 answered questionnaires were collected with target of Chinese tourists at 20s and 40s who purchased Korean hair cosmetics in Myeong-dong once 120 questionnaires were distributed. In-depth analysis was conducted and final research data were used. It was confirmed that Korean fever positively affected the Chinese tourists' purchase behavior and satisfaction of hair cosmetics, and the interests in Korean hair cosmetics at 20s were higher than at 40s. People at 20s had higher awareness, satisfaction and intention of repurchase of hair cosmetics compared rather than people at 40s. The research confirmed that Chinese tourists are very interested in Korean hair cosmetics as the pop music craze has led to the general Korean Wave, and differences in such perceptions have led to significant differences in the product purchase behavior.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.99-116
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• 2008

This study reviewed pertinent literature and examined relics of manggon(a headband worn to hold a man's topknot hair in place), donggot(a topknot pin), and chigwan(a topknot cover). Before the modernized short hair style, wearing a gat was an important custom. Therefore, manggon, which was used to hold a man's hair in place under the gat, was considered an essential part of the man's official dress code. Donggot is a pin that held the topknot hair in place. It was a must have for a married man, like the binyeo, a lod-like hairpin, for a married woman. Unlike gwanja, it had nothing to do with official rank, but materials were of a variety of materials, including jade and gold. The structure of the donggot was studied in three parts-head, neck and body. Major forms for the head include the mushroom, bean and ball. Bullet and half-cut bullet forms were also found. Forms for the neck include straight-neck and curved-neck. A neck with a belt around a double chin was also found. Forms for the body include the tetrahedron, octahedron and cylinder. The most popular form for silver and white bronze donggot heads was the mushroom, followed by bean and pile forms. Chigwan is also called chipogwan, chichoal, choalgyesogwan, noingwan and sangtugwan. In poetry it was called chichoal, and it used to be called taegogwan in the past as well. Chigwan was so small that it managed to hold a topknot. According to confucian custom in the Joseon period, by wearing chigwan, men didn't display their bare topknot even when they didn't dress up. When they went out, they wore another official hat over the chigwan.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.39-47
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• 2008

Korean embroidery is the long historical industrial arts of real life and has handed down Korean sentiment up to now. Korean traditional embroidered pattern is designed to wish someone's health and luck, who uses the embroidery on the clothes and the goods in real life. Especially, the ten longevity symbols' design is represented as 10 which means perfection in oriental philosophy, the sun, mountain, cloud, water, crane, rock, turtle, pine tree, the elixir of life and deer; these 10 symbols show how ancient Korean believe and wish perpetual youth. However, fiber material used embroidery relic has difficulty in preserving for long period compared to other relic descended from historical events for long time and their preserved state isn't so good owing to have been used directly in the real life. Therefore, it is essentially embossed to preserve the embroidery relic and pattern, and make DB for the data. With preservation of the pictures about the handicraft, it's necessary to preserve embroidery technique and make DB through digital imagination. Through the process, we can apply Korean embroidery image to cul-duct package and digital image related field, and it will be helpful to make the tradition popular. In this study, through the research for the embroidery technique applied pattern on the embroidery relic of ten longevity symbols, we'll establish the cultural identification of Korean embroidery image and then develop a worldwide Korean image.

• 복식
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• 제57권9호
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• pp.161-176
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• 2007

The objectives of this study are to select and analyze unpublished wedding dresses in the 19th century, to investigate the design characteristics and making techniques of Victorian wedding dresses, and to examine the correlation between the wedding dress style and the fashion style in those days and the influence of the wedding dress style on contemporary's styles. The materials of this study were 9 wedding dresses owned by the Historical Costume and Textile Collection at the University of Connecticut in USA. The dresses were made during the mid and late Victorian Age. As for silhouette, the bustle style was popular in the 1870s and 1880s, and the hourglass style in the 1890s, and different from contemporary dresses there were no big differences in structural pattern and details between ordinary dresses and wedding dresses. In addition, colored wedding dresses were used until the mid and late Victorian Age, but since the wedding ceremony of Queen Victoria in 1840, white wedding dress was widely accepted and settled as the tradition of today's wedding dresses. While the Western dress style had been basically a one piece style, there appeared simple two piece designs in which the upper garment was separated from the lower one, from the mid Victorian Age. This is considered the reflection of those days' pragmatic social trend in dress style. It seems around 1875 when asymmetric design was first introduced in the Western dress style, which had been mostly symmetric. The asymmetric style that pursued atypical beauty, though not common during the late Victorian Age, shows a change in the typical Western dress style. With regard to dress making techniques, sewing machines were distributed widely during the early Victorian Age but they were not used in all parts of dress. Most of details and trimming works were done manually and some parts were attached and detached by hand sewing. In addition, not like today, there were no generalized rules of making such as the form of closings and composition.

• 복식
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• 제64권5호
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• pp.30-49
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• 2014

Mobile shopping, through the use of the smart phone, has become a very popular shopping method for consumers due to it not being limited by time or place. This research aims do the following:1)find the causes for consumers shifting to mobile shopping with the focus on fashion and beauty items; and in order to so, this research will use the TAM that was found by David et al (1989), and 2) distinguish any behavioral differences between consumer groups divided into purchasing intention of fashion and beauty items through smart phone. Path analysis was performed to verify the cause-and-effect relationship between the variables. Personal characteristics(i.e. market maven, time orientation), perceived usability, ease of use, attitude towards mobile shopping, and purchase intentions were all treated as dependant variables. The results showed that attitude towards mobile shopping was the most important variable on mobile shopping intentions. Time-oriented and Market Maven were thought to affect mobile shopping attitude and the dependent variables of purchase intention. Also, when purchasing smart phones, consumers highly valued smart phone's popularity; people with higher purchasing intention mainly used entertainment and utility apps. The following are the main reasons for not purchasing through mobile shopping: they are slower than computers, inconveniences in viewing due to small size of the screen, and security issues. The consumers used the internet as their main source of acquiring daily information. In this research, factors that affect the purchase intention were studied. However, it is difficult to firmly insist that this research correctly predicts the actual purchase intention-further studies need to be done to investigate the relationship between mobile purchase intention and actual purchase intention.

• 복식
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• 제37권
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• pp.211-230
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• 1998

Advertisements provide consumers with in-formation and knowledge about products and help a society to sustain homogeneity by actively reflecting important characteristics of mass culture. Yet this reflection is a selective and purposeful representation by the party of the fashion manufactures and carries the intention of stimulating and augmenting desire for commodities aiming to perpetuate capitalism. This study understood this selective reflection of mass culture by advertisements as a feature of hegemonic struggle between/fashion business and consumers and defined the values selected by advertisements as ideologies supporting the consumption ideology of capitalism. The purpose of this study was to examine the contents of the ideologies expressed in the clothing advertisements in women's magazines to persuade consumers into consumption. The method of study was mainly qualitative with subsidiary citations from the results of content analysis. The objects of analysis were clothing advertisements in 1996 issues of CeCi and Woman Sense, which were identified as the two most popular women's monthly magazines. The ideologies identified were ideologies concerning (1) Self Identity, (2) Sensibility, (3) Sex Role, (4) Globalism, (5) Youth, (6) Leas-ure and Pleasure. Repeated and insisted as natural and true, there values were proposed to be believed as common senses and studies re-port that values of advertisements are ac-cepted as more readily as they are more unreasonable, and the acts and behaviors expres-sed within advertisements are often imitated in real life situations. Therefore, it is highly probable that these values emphasized within advertisements are enacted in thoughts and behaviors of consumers' real life. Accordingly the author suggests that critical interpretation of advertisements is seriously required to fully understand the commodity ridden post industrial society of today and to lead a subjective life within it.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.492-500
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• 2012

Cocoa is a popular drink for children and contains healthy polyphenols however; a deep brown stain is left when cocoa is spilled over clothes. The main pigments in cocoa are anthocyanins that change in washing solutions with different alkalinity and metals. The removal and color changes in a cocoa stain after washing with various pH solutions and water hardness were studied. Alkalinity and the water hardness of washing solutions were important factors for the removal of cocoa stains. The removal of cocoa things in washing solutions without detergent was low (and even became negative after removal and darker) in solutions with a pH 9 and above. The cocoa stain was not removed and only the fabric color faded, although the cocoa stained cloth was washed with Korea tap water that has a pH of 7. The cocoa stain removal in detergent solutions was conspicuously higher than for only water. Even in detergent solutions, the cocoa stain removal decreased as water hardness increased. Cocoa stain removal was more effective and the color dimmest when the stained cloth was washed in a solution without the metal cations, and the bleach added with the detergent at a temperature of $40^{\circ}C$ and for longer than 20 minutes. Effective and economical equipment for tap water softening for a washing machine should be developed and used to improve cocoa stain removal.