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The Origination and Changes of Street Fashion (스트리트 패션의 발생과 변천)

  • Jung, Kyong-Hee;Yoo, Tai-Soon
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.1 no.1
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    • pp.71-83
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    • 1997
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the present fashion phenomenon by considering the types of street fashion, the center of avant-grade modern fashion, that shows the origination background and special feature concretely. The times was defined through the 1980's from World War II that street style originated, so the range of study was the 1990's when the street style was influenced by that of the past and was revived. The ways of study were to analyze the records of ideology, art and music connected with the street style from World War II to the present when it has risen. The summary of result is as follows. (1) In the 1940's, Zooties was the jet of desire suppressed by African-Americans that couldn't receive favors socially and economically and Hipsters pursued reformative bebop that made up of soft Jazz. In the 1950's, Modernists were running after Cool Jazz to the minimum. In the 1970's, Funk appered in the sexual desire and erotic strength, and was surfaced from Negro Getto. In the 1980's B-boys & Flygirls showed the street style by the scribble art of slum in the New York. As mentioned above, In the 1990's, Acid Jazz influenced by the Jazz of Negro has been the fashion added to the tradition of musical form that come from eclecticism of Jazz tended Neo-Jazz. (2) In the 1940's, Western style dreamed the country life because of rapid urbanization. In the 1950's, Beat obtained the feeling of liberation from the dissolute life and activity. In the 1960's, Psychedelics showed the freedom affected by the Pop-art and Op-art, and Hippies pursued the true individuality as 'love & peace' life style and the return to nature. In the 1990's, Grunge look influenced by the above has been fashion that shows the practical use of second-hand clothing or patchwork contrary to elitism. (3) In the 1940's, Caribbean style appered in the typical textile color with the center of West Indies. In the 1960's, Rude boys showed the magnificence and difficulty of Jamaica, and Rastafarians had a tendency to come back to the ancient civilization of America. In the 1970's, Two-tone was the simple clothing for harmonizing among human races. In the 1990's, Jamaica look influenced by the above has been the Lege fashion introduced to a high fashion, appearing in the special bright color, applique, unique hair style, and so on. (4) In the 1950's, Sufers pursued natural rhythm, getting out of everything. In the 1970' s, Skaters enjoyed the speed on the paved road. In the 1980's, Casuals emphasized the spirit of cooperation of young-things. In the 1990's, Casual look Influenced by the above has been the fashion that forms the activity, function and strong spirit of cooperation by pursuing comfortable life and sports in the tension of life and variety of modern society. (5) It was hard for Bikers to adjust themselves in society after the war. In the 1950's, Coffee bar cowboys were the reckless running boys in the leather jacket. In the 1960's, Rockers created the group originality as disobedient outsiders and Greasers imitated Rolling Stones. In the 1980's, Punks resisted the viewpoint of the old generation in offensive fashion. In the 1990's, Cyberpunk influenced by the above has pursued the classless structure, electronic music and metallic clothing that forebodes gloomily as the computer generation of ultra-modern science times. Accordingly, in understanding a complex modern fashion phenomenon, it was analyzed that the street styles of the past, from World War II to the 1980's, were reflected in that of the 1990's dividing into the five types in a word, namely Acid Jazz, Grunge look, Jamaica look, Casual look and Cyberpunk.

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The story structure characteristic of the "Shinbi Apartment" animation and meaning of contents of the traditional ghost story (애니메이션 <신비아파트: 고스트볼의 비밀>의 구성적 특징과 전통귀신담의 콘텐츠화의 의미)

  • Song, So-ra
    • Journal of Korean Classical Literature and Education
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    • no.39
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    • pp.137-180
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    • 2018
  • This article examines the constitutional characteristics of the works in the "Shinbi Apartment" (Mysterious Apartment) series produced by Tooniverse, a domestic animation channel, and considers the meaning of the contents of the ghoststory (鬼神談). The "Shinbi Apartment" series is a horror animation for children. It was produced for the first time in Korea and recorded high ratings. Additionally, it is different from Japanese horror animations that were dubbed and broadcast in Korea in terms of composition and narrative direction, and it succeeds in the form and direction of the traditional Korean ghost story. "Shinbi Apartment - The Secret of Ghost Ball" enriches narrative stories by embracing the structure of the "female ghost story" in traditional ghost stories while following the form of ghosts that suddenly pop up in the daily routines of contemporary ghost stories. The ghost's shape, which has a bizarre and unpredictable aspect, embodies the ghost as the object of fear that modern horror stories intend. However, it does not stop there, but puts the attention on the hero who focuses on the emerging ghost and listens and communicates with it, placing the emphasis of the story on communication, understanding, forgiveness, and reconciliation. The structure and contents of the unique story of "The Secret of Ghost Ball" contribute to the transformation of the ghost into a subject of friendliness and entertainment, not merely as one of shock, fear, and anxiety. Additionally, as the concept of "child" is being created, the custom of modernity, which deals with the story of ghosts in the dimension of teaching and edification, is also manifested in "The Secret of Ghost Ball." In other words, through the figure of the devil, it is to continue the lesson of the story by revealing the adventure, the courage necessary for the "child," and the boundaries for substance and appearance. The "Shinbi Apartment" series has also contributed to the success of ghosts as commercial contents. The structure of the story and its characters have been actively used as educational tools and toys for children. It can be said that ghost culture contributed to this popularization by establishing a base for enjoying ghosts for amusement and entertainment.

The Korean Girl Group Kara's Differentiation Strategy Which Overcome the Trilemma and Led to the Great Reversal Success (삼중고 탈피 후 대역전의 성공을 이끈 걸 그룹'카라'의 차별화 전략)

  • Kim, Jeong-Seob
    • Journal of Korea Entertainment Industry Association
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    • v.15 no.2
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    • pp.169-178
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    • 2021
  • The Korean girl group "Kara" has suffered the trilemma of its de facto failure to debut, the crisis of team breakup, and the CEO crisis of the agency. But the group has made an outstanding achievement in the history of Korean pop music after overcoming all odds. Their success strategy has never been disclosed by insiders involved in Kara's total music projects. This study has been carried out in the analysis of the strategy to provide academic implications and to honor the contribution of the late CEO Ho-yeon Lee and Kara's key member Ha-ra Gu. Therefore, between Nov. and Dec. 2020, we conducted in-depth interviews with managers, composers, stylists and Ha-ra Gu(Only in 2019, before her death) who took part in the project. The research model is set up by combining Porter's Competitive Advantage Strategy and the music value chain model into categories of "Product Innovation Differentiation (PD)" (producing, album production, performance activities) and "Marketing Differentiation (MD)" (market targeting, image specialization, promotion and communication). The analysis showed that the PD focused on complete rediscovered harmonization and revalued members' personality and sincerity with peppy songs and dainty dances as well as emission of "bright energy" which caused healing effects instead of mimicking other star singers recklessly. In terms of MD, they selected Japan's 10-20s as their main market, increasing intimacy with fans and media with the image of cute+pretty+classy+sexy. The result suggests that Poter's differentiation can function as a meaningful strategy frame in the fostering, hit, and revival of idol groups. In addition, it reaffirmed that spontaneous and passionate activities of early-stage or celebrity fan may serve as a valid catalyst for realizing differentiation, as Kara's caller of Japanese actor Gekidan Hitori caused a strong "priming effect" that drove Kara's unexpected wonderful success in Japan.

Development of smart education-based teaching and learning plans and a smart textbook for 'healthy diet and meal plans' unit in 「Technology·Home Economics」 (중학교 「기술·가정」의 '건강한 식생활과 식사 구성' 단원에 적용한 스마트 교수·학습 과정안과 교재 개발)

  • Choi, Song Eun;Chae, Jung-Hyun
    • Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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    • v.26 no.4
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    • pp.85-114
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    • 2014
  • The main purpose of this study was to develop teaching and learning plans and a smart textbook for food and nutrition education in Home Economics focusing on 'healthy diet and meal plans' unit in "Technology home Economics" textbooks for 7th graders to evaluate the effectiveness of the instruction conducted with the smart textbook. The content of the study to achieve the purpose is as follows: First, design a smart education-based teaching and learning curriculum for food and nutrition education in Home Economics, focusing on 'healthy diet and meal plans' unit. Second, develop a smart textbook for food and nutrition education based on the teaching and learning curriculum, using a smart content authoring tool. Third, evaluate the effectiveness of the instruction after applying the curriculum in real classroom situations. The results of this study were as follows: First, teaching and learning plans and materials were developed for two units, 'issues regarding teenagers' diet' and 'implementation of a healthy and balanced diet', under 'teenagers' life'. The first unit, 'issues regarding teenagers' diet', dealt with topics such as teenagers' dietary behaviors, nutrition, and health. Learning objectives for this unit were to help students identify and evaluate their own dietary behaviors. The second unit, 'implementation of a healthy and balanced diet', encouraged students to diagnose problems with their diet and plan nutrient rich meals. The objectives for this unit were to help students implement a healthy and balanced diet by providing them with nutrition and dietary guidelines for Koreans, sample meal plans, and guidelines for developing healthy eating habits for teenagers. In order to develop a teaching and learning plans to achieve these objectives, teaching and learning materials including inquiry tasks, materials for group activities, multimedia, applications and various pop-up learning materials were developed. Second, a smart textbook using DocZoom, which was a smart content authoring tool was developed. The textbook dealt with issues regarding teenagers' diet and implementation of a healthy and balanced diet. Multimedia material used in the textbook come from the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety's food and nutrition education web sites and other sources. To develop student-oriented material, relevant video clips were added to the smart textbook to motivate students and enhance their interest in the course. Third, the outcome of this study indicated that the instruction using teaching and learning plans and learning materials with the smart textbook was effective for enhancing students' interest in Home Economics classes (t-value=-3.99, p<.001), creating enthusiasm for learning(t-value = -2.61, p<.05), encouraging self-directed and independent learning(t-value = -4.77, p<.001), and improving students' interest in food and nutrition courses(t-value = -3.83, p<.001). The students' evaluation of the instruction were as follows: the instruction using teaching and learning plans and learning materials with smart textbooks, instead of paper textbooks, helped them save time looking for learning materials; students evaluated that it was easier for them to see and understand video clips and charts. In addition, most students answered that instruction with smart textbooks were more fun and convenient, and they agreed that the courses enhanced their learning experience.

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A Study Meaning Analysis and Interpretation of Body Sign, Kiki Smith - On Pee Body - (키키 스미스 작품에서 신체기호의 의미 분석과 해석 - 를 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Sung-Hee
    • Journal of Science of Art and Design
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    • v.10
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    • pp.5-50
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    • 2006
  • The terminology "human body" simply means a physical body but also more often, as an object in art works, carries symbolic concepts incorporating the whole history of human lives. Human body has been employed as an artistic object capturing physical body, delivering artist's idea expressing life indicators from different standpoints of times and places. This point of view about human body in art works has in fact rather short history since 1960's when modern thinking paradigm focusing upon rationality and reasoning has begun declining and on the contrary when the body used to be the servant of the mind and soul for a long time has begun attracting artist's attention as a real entity from the viewpoint of dichotomy. During the 1960's, frequent performances in Pop art and of Fluxus showed that the human body has been an important media for artistic communication after importance of body performances had been raised in Action painting in 1940's. The human body became a more determined media in body art works that had got into stride after Yves Kline's conceptual works applying body and its traces. These kinds of art works have continued and consolidated into the Feminism came into blossom in 1980's and into fragmentated and disembodied body art trend in 1990's. Through development of trends in body works, human body now might well be regarded as a clue provide from individual identity with implication over the world. This thesis is to analyse in semiotic way main works of Kiki Smith who is a representative artist devoting to Feminism and proposing extended significance of human body. In the analysis process of works done by two great artists with histrorical background of art trend in order to find and open an significance horizon of human body, semiotics and bodism are therefore perceived as pertinent and applied as basic tools. The first stage of analysis is to get the significances emerged in between expression part and contextual parts, which are separated structually from the most basic level. The study deals with body works furthermore in the way of structual cohesion of the expression and the context from the view of A J. Greimas' Structural Semantics and tried to build up a basic frame for the extended significances of human body. This thesis is, on the other hand, to attempt to contribute for extension of disembodied and fragmentated body discussed in the structural semantic frame earlier by Julia Kriesteva who delivers abjection concepts and phenomenology of Maurice Merleau-Ponty who enables to overview relationship between the body and the world from the viewpoint of Bodism, further into interpretation level. The other works are Kiki smith's that showed epics about death in mid-1980's, detailed humbleness of vulnerable human body exposed to dichotomy and fragmentation in 1990's and religion and mythology incorporating wouln healing in 2000's and henceforth. Through the analysis of Kiki Smith's representative work 'Pee body', it is verified and confirmed that fragmentated body showed beyond boundary gap of the human body and ultimately tends to imply human healing owing to divine maternity. Bodily symbols in Kiki Smith's are extended to the universal world to imply human life and death on the one hand and religion and mythology of human wound and divine healing one the other hand. This thesis through these process and results of analysis is in a broad context, to emphasize that human body as objectified text has a key indicator role to understand world as well as semiotic extension in art works in late 20th century so that we might confirm bodily symbol as a cultural context constitutes a section of contemporary visual arts.

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Antecedents of Manufacturer's Private Label Program Engagement : A Focus on Strategic Market Management Perspective (제조업체 Private Labels 도입의 선행요인 : 전략적 시장관리 관점을 중심으로)

  • Lim, Chae-Un;Yi, Ho-Taek
    • Journal of Distribution Research
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    • v.17 no.1
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    • pp.65-86
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    • 2012
  • The $20^{th}$ century was the era of manufacturer brands which built higher brand equity for consumers. Consumers moved from generic products of inconsistent quality produced by local factories in the $19^{th}$ century to branded products from global manufacturers and manufacturer brands reached consumers through distributors and retailers. Retailers were relatively small compared to their largest suppliers. However, sometime in the 1970s, things began to slowly change as retailers started to develop their own national chains and began international expansion, and consolidation of the retail industry from mom-and-pop stores to global players was well under way (Kumar and Steenkamp 2007, p.2) In South Korea, since the middle of the 1990s, the bulking up of retailers that started then has changed the balance of power between manufacturers and retailers. Retailer private labels, generally referred to as own labels, store brands, distributors own private-label, home brand or own label brand have also been performing strongly in every single local market (Bushman 1993; De Wulf et al. 2005). Private labels now account for one out of every five items sold every day in U.S. supermarkets, drug chains, and mass merchandisers (Kumar and Steenkamp 2007), and the market share in Western Europe is even larger (Euromonitor 2007). In the UK, grocery market share of private labels grew from 39% of sales in 2008 to 41% in 2010 (Marian 2010). Planet Retail (2007, p.1) recently concluded that "[PLs] are set for accelerated growth, with the majority of the world's leading grocers increasing their own label penetration." Private labels have gained wide attention both in the academic literature and popular business press and there is a glowing academic research to the perspective of manufacturers and retailers. Empirical research on private labels has mainly studies the factors explaining private labels market shares across product categories and/or retail chains (Dahr and Hoch 1997; Hoch and Banerji, 1993), factors influencing the private labels proneness of consumers (Baltas and Doyle 1998; Burton et al. 1998; Richardson et al. 1996) and factors how to react brand manufacturers towards PLs (Dunne and Narasimhan 1999; Hoch 1996; Quelch and Harding 1996; Verhoef et al. 2000). Nevertheless, empirical research on factors influencing the production in terms of a manufacturer-retailer is rather anecdotal than theory-based. The objective of this paper is to bridge the gap in these two types of research and explore the factors which influence on manufacturer's private label production based on two competing theories: S-C-P (Structure - Conduct - Performance) paradigm and resource-based theory. In order to do so, the authors used in-depth interview with marketing managers, reviewed retail press and research and presents the conceptual framework that integrates the major determinants of private labels production. From a manufacturer's perspective, supplying private labels often starts on a strategic basis. When a manufacturer engages in private labels, the manufacturer does not have to spend on advertising, retailer promotions or maintain a dedicated sales force. Moreover, if a manufacturer has weak marketing capabilities, the manufacturer can make use of retailer's marketing capability to produce private labels and lessen its marketing cost and increases its profit margin. Figure 1. is the theoretical framework based on a strategic market management perspective, integrated concept of both S-C-P paradigm and resource-based theory. The model includes one mediate variable, marketing capabilities, and the other moderate variable, competitive intensity. Manufacturer's national brand reputation, firm's marketing investment, and product portfolio, which are hypothesized to positively affected manufacturer's marketing capabilities. Then, marketing capabilities has negatively effected on private label production. Moderating effects of competitive intensity are hypothesized on the relationship between marketing capabilities and private label production. To verify the proposed research model and hypotheses, data were collected from 192 manufacturers (212 responses) who are producing private labels in South Korea. Cronbach's alpha test, explanatory / comfirmatory factor analysis, and correlation analysis were employed to validate hypotheses. The following results were drawing using structural equation modeling and all hypotheses are supported. Findings indicate that manufacturer's private label production is strongly related to its marketing capabilities. Consumer marketing capabilities, in turn, is directly connected with the 3 strategic factors (e.g., marketing investment, manufacturer's national brand reputation, and product portfolio). It is moderated by competitive intensity between marketing capabilities and private label production. In conclusion, this research may be the first study to investigate the reasons manufacturers engage in private labels based on two competing theoretic views, S-C-P paradigm and resource-based theory. The private label phenomenon has received growing attention by marketing scholars. In many industries, private labels represent formidable competition to manufacturer brands and manufacturers have a dilemma with selling to as well as competing with their retailers. The current study suggests key factors when manufacturers consider engaging in private label production.

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