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A Study of the Changes in Types of Justaucorps for French Men, and Pattern making from the End of the 17th Century to the End of the 18th Century (17세기말기-18세기말 프랑스 남자 쥐스또꼬르 유형변화와 패턴제작 연구)

  • Kim, Yang-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.59 no.8
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    • pp.49-65
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    • 2009
  • As basic materials in this research, 874 pieces of engraving that recorded the garment produced by diverse authors in the 17-18th century were collected among the collections of male and female garment in the engraving kept by National Library of France and 216 pieces of engraving were classified among them to observe justaucorps as stated in the materials. Since type of justaucorps in the 18th century can be classified by difference in shape and change through the above engraving materials in large quantity and the shape and composition can be compared and analyzed with other materials such as picture, stored garment, written materials without difficulty, the chronology can be composed by single type of justaucorps. Intending to understand the change in composition caused by type classification and pattern making as per analysis of type property of justaucorps, the men's upper garment in France in the 18th century. Checking change in design per from and materials, justaucorps of 1680-1700s was in silhouette where waist in the length above knee was adhered and slightly spread to lower part. In the type of 1710-1750s, waist adhered remarkably and many pleats were made under waist to produce volume of form that spread to lower part like skirt. In the type of 1760-1780s, straight silhouette was attached to whole body and end of front adjustment in slant line turns to rear part. The developmental aspect of construction can be checked by making pattern. Changing the cutting line of body plate to smoothly connect section and to try to adhere to the body, the development of simpler and delicate pattern production technique was confirmed.

The Study on the Fabrics of King Muryeong's Tomb at the Baekje(百濟) Period (백제 무령왕릉 출토 직물 연구)

  • Cho, Hyo-Sook;Lee, Eun-Jin;Jeon, Hyun-Sil
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.8
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    • pp.37-47
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    • 2007
  • This study is considered about the fabrics of the tomb of King Muryeong at the Baekje(百濟) Period. First, there were silk fabrics such as compound woven silk(錦), twill damask(綾), complex gause(羅) and plain weaved silk(平絹). All of compound woven silk(錦) are the warp-faced compound tabby(經錦) of plain weave and the density is various from high to low one. The twill damask(綾) was a variation of twill damask weaved with a six strand warp thread. The complex gause(羅) made patterns as a set of 2 strand, 4 strand, 6 strand and 8 strand warp threads are weaved alternately with the weft. There were three kinds of plain weaved silk(平絹). The first was weaved densely without space between strands. The second was weaved with a small space between strands. And the third was weaved with a two strand warp thread, having a space between the threads. On the other hand, several pieces of well preserved ramie cloth were excavated. Of the, the densest one has the density of 125 strand/inch for the warp and the weft. In addition, strings made of flax thread were found. This suggests that flax fabrics may be found additionally if the hardened lumps of fabrics are resolved and analyzed. Other materials discovered include knits, knotted strings, embroideries, threads and floss. Pieces considered knits and knotted strings occupy a large part of fabrics excavated from King Muryeong's Tomb, and in particular knotted strings show various knotting methods. In addition, embroideries such as chain stitch and button hole stitch are clearly observed. What is more, there are silk threads and hemp threads, which are presumed to have been used for dangling ornaments such as Yeongrak(瓔珞) and beads or for sewing. Besides, floss was found between fabrics.

A Study on the Plural Eclecticism and the Aesthetic Characteristics in Stage Costume - Focused on the World's Top 4 Musicals - (무대의상에 나타난 다원적 절충주의 경향에 관한 연구 - 세계 4대 뮤지컬을 중심으로 -)

  • Jun, Yuh-Sun;Kim, Jang-Hyeon;Kim, Young-Sam
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.63 no.6
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    • pp.1-13
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    • 2013
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the trend of plural eclecticism in costumes appearing on the stages of the world's top 4 musicals based on the general researches and establishments made of the mentioned concept. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, the aspects of eclectics appearing in overall pieces can be defined as situational eclecticism. It can be attributed to the dramatic elements contrasted in the storyline of the musical and occurs in mixture with various situations. Showing combinations of costumes from varying situations at once in the same stage makes the audience feel the dynamic elements of the piece. Second, the aspect of temporal eclecticism, which can be seen in the 'Phantom of the Opera' regarding mixture of crinoline style and art nouveau style, resulted from the partial mixture of classical elements for maximizing visual beauty in the historical pieces. Third, the aspect of spatial eclecticism can be observed in the musical 'Miss Saigon', which used costumes that combined multicultural elements by exposing different spaces and cultures such as America and Vietnam. It eclectically expresses the unique cultures and costumes of each country. Fourth, 'Les Miserables' shows the aspect of situational eclecticism, through its use of mixture of situations in various aspects, and in particular, the male and female costumes that blur the boundaries of life, death, and costume, the mixture of people's costume and aristocrat's costume, and the situational elements where the good and evil are contrasted are integrated eclectically to make the story dramatic.

A Study on Development of the Basic Hat Pattern using 3D Scan Data for Korean Women - Focusing on the 6 pieces Crown - (3D 측정치를 이용한 여성용 모자 패턴 개발 - 6면 크라운 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Cha-Hyun;Kim, Gum-Hwa
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.12 no.3
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    • pp.354-363
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    • 2010
  • The purpose of this study was to provide some preliminary results on application of 3D scan data of head shapes to the hat design and pattern-making. This paper defined necessary measurement items and concepts in 3-dimensional images of head shapes. And also it presented the methodology to pattern-making of 6-piece crown hat based on 3D data. It used the data of Size Korea to pick up and choose a head shape model with the average head size of Korean women in their twenties. Main results were: 1. The 3D scan data of head shape was better than the 1 dimensional measurement data. Because I could establish a hat pattern-making theory by the 3D scan data of head. 2. The 3D scan data provided the basis for conceptualization of basic measurement points and items for a better fit of hats as well as the definition of the basic hat circumference. 3. This presented a methodology for analyzing out head shape by 3D scan data, and allowed the derivation of the basic hat circumference from the maximum head circumference. 4. As the 6-piece Crown cloche hat made by this method fitted the head shape model perfectly, this methodology could suggest potential applicability to various hat design.

Physical stability of arginine-glycine-aspartic acid peptide coated on anodized implants after installation

  • Huh, Jung-Bo;Lee, Jeong-Yeol;Jeon, Young-Chan;Shin, Sang-Wan;Ahn, Jin-Soo;Ryu, Jae-Jun
    • The Journal of Advanced Prosthodontics
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    • v.5 no.2
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    • pp.84-91
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    • 2013
  • PURPOSE. The aim of this study was to evaluate the stability of arginine-glycine-aspartic acid (RGD) peptide coatings on implants by measuring the amount of peptide remaining after installation. MATERIALS AND METHODS. Fluorescent isothiocyanate (FITC)-fixed RGD peptide was coated onto anodized titanium implants (width 4 mm, length 10 mm) using a physical adsorption method (P) or a chemical grafting method (C). Solid Rigid Polyurethane Foam (SRPF) was classified as either hard bone (H) or soft bone (S) according to its density. Two pieces of artificial bone were fixed in a customized jig, and coated implants were installed at the center of the boundary between two pieces of artificial bone. The test groups were classified as: P-H, P-S, C-H, or C-S. After each installation, implants were removed from the SRPF, and the residual amounts and rates of RGD peptide in implants were measured by fluorescence spectrometry. The Kruskal-Wallis test was used for the statistical analysis (${\alpha}$=0.05). RESULTS. Peptide-coating was identified by fluorescence microscopy and XPS. Total coating amount was higher for physical adsorption than chemical grafting. The residual rate of peptide was significantly larger in the P-S group than in the other three groups (P<.05). CONCLUSION. The result of this study suggests that coating doses depend on coating method. Residual amounts of RGD peptide were greater for the physical adsorption method than the chemical grafting method.

Characterization of Korean Archaeological Artifacts by Neutron Activation Analysis (II). Multivariate Classification of Korean Ancient Glass Pieces (중성자 방사화분석에 의한 한국산 고고학적 유물의 특성화 연구 (II). 다변량 해석법에 의한 고대 유리제품의 분류 연구)

  • Chul Lee;Oh Cheun Kwun;Ihn Chong Lee;Nak Bae Kim
    • Journal of the Korean Chemical Society
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    • v.31 no.6
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    • pp.567-575
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    • 1987
  • Fourty five ancient Korean glass pieces have been determined for 19 elements such as Ag, As, Br, Ce, Co, Cr, Eu, Fe, Hf, K, La, Lu, Na, Ru, Sb, Sc, Sm, Th and Zn, and for one such as Pb by instrumental neutron activation analysis and by atomic absorption spectrometry, respectively. The multivariate data have been analyzed for the relation among elemental contents through the variance-covariance matrix. The data have been further analyzed by a principal component mapping method. As the results training set of 5 class have been chosen, based on the spread of sample points in an eigen vector plot and archaeological data. The 5 training set consisting of 36 species and a test set consisting of 9 species bave finally been analyzed for the assignment to certain classes or outliers through the statistical isolinear multiple component analysis (SIMCA). The results have showed the whole species for 5 training set and 3 species in the test set are assigned appropriately and these are in accord with the results by principal component mapping.

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Localization Technology Development of 16oz Popper Kettle through Existing Kettle Analysis and Heating System Study (기존 케틀 분석 및 가열 시스템 연구를 통한 16oz 팝퍼 케틀 국산화 기술 개발)

  • Lee, Jung-Hun;Kim, Kyoung-Chul;Oh, Young-Sub;Ryuh, Beom-Sang
    • Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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    • v.16 no.11
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    • pp.7773-7780
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    • 2015
  • Analysis of existing kettle and its heating system has been the topic for localization technology development. Test pieces are made, polished and etched for existing kettle analysis. Surface of test pieces is observed using SEM, the kettle is verified to be made by deep drawing process from Ferrite-Perlite material. The kettle is also identified to be plated $16{\sim}49{\mu}m$ of thickness with Nickel(16%). Also heat transfer characteristics based on hot wire arrangement is investigated and optimal hot wire system is developed. Developed control system detects overheating and stops the whole system on the long operating time. Developed kettle takes the performance evaluation test for volume expansion and satisfied for standard 'KS G3602'.

A Study on Characteristics of Swedish Furniture Company, $K{\ddot{a}}llemo's$ chair Design

  • Kim, Jin-Woo
    • Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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    • v.17 no.4
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    • pp.1-13
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    • 2006
  • This study attempted to identify the characteristics of chair design from furniture company, $K{\ddot{a}}llemo$, the furniture manufacturer in Sweden manufacturing mostly the limited edition of art furniture on the basis of the unique management philosophy. There are 12 artists manufactured chairs for $K{\ddot{a}}llemo$. Of them, this study selected 4 artists-Sigurdur Gustafsson, John Kandell, Komplot Design, Mats Theselius-who designed at least more than three chairs. Total 25 chairs were analyzed; 6 from Sigurdur Gustafsson, 8 from John Kandell, 3 from Komplot Design and 8 from Mats Theselius. The chair structure was divided into three parts, seat, back and structure and analyzed by material, color, type of legs and finishing. The following results were derived from the study. First, $K{\ddot{a}}llemo$ secured the regular customers who want to possess the chairs as the artistic works by continuing the small quantity mass-production system insisting that the maximum quantity of production is 360 pieces and the minimum quantity is 33 pieces. Second, the sufficient time and cost were invested in the initial phase of design. This approach seems to be deviated from the traditional business system that has to create the revenue at a glance, but ultimately induces the commercial success by exponentially increasing the revenue through the creation of various product lines. Third, $K{\ddot{a}}llemo$ provides the space that the artists who work for $K{\ddot{a}}llemo$ can sufficiently enjoy the mental composure and luxury required for the designers by strictly selecting the artists and providing the best environment for enabling the creative activities that look like the pure art area. This study enables the further analysis and research on other collections of $K{\ddot{a}}llemo$ that mass-produces the chairs on the basis of the unique philosophy in the world as well as in Sweden using more various kinds of analysis frameworks.

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Effects of Sprout Length, Amounts and Times of Nitrogen Application, Transplanting Rate and Depth of Wheat Straw Mulch on the Fall Crop Production of Potato (정식시 아장, 질소의 시용량과 시용시기, 재식거리 및 피복정도가 감자추작에 미치는 영향)

  • Jung-Hyun Choi;Jae-Young Cho
    • KOREAN JOURNAL OF CROP SCIENCE
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    • v.22 no.1
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    • pp.20-25
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    • 1977
  • In order to find out the effect of five kinds of cultural treatments in fall crop production of potatoes the experiments were carried out with Simabara cultivar at Chonan in 1976. Sprouting of dormant seed pieces were induced by soaking in 2ppm GA and 250ppm Ethrel mixed solution for 60 minutes. Seed pieces with longer sprouts at transplanting, and increasing of urea(nitrogen) application from 10 to 30 Kg per 10a resulted better growth, yields, and quality. Application of total nitrogen at one time on 24th July(transplanting date) resulted lower emergence, yields, growth, and quality as compared with divided application on 24th July and 15th August and 5th September. Higher transplanting than 60$\times$20cm or 70$\times$17cm resulted slender growth and lower yields. Deeper mulch with wheat straw (from 4 to 12cm) induced lower maximal earth temperature in summer and higher minimal earth temperature in autumn.

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A Study on Consumer Complaints over Lables on children's Clothing (유.아동복 레이블의 불만에 관한연구)

  • 박선경;홍지명;이정순;신혜원;유호선
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.23 no.2
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    • pp.307-313
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    • 1999
  • This study investigated material the type(sewn-in stamped-on etc) of the label and its placement(location on the product) on children's clothing in order to survey consumer complaints to suggest the improvement. The data were collected from label-producing companies by surveying children's clothing displayed at department store as well as by questionnaire to 205 consumers who were mothers of preschool children. The results were as follows : 1. 100% polyester was the most used raw material for brand labels and nylon was for care labels. 2. Most brand labels were one piece labels and located inside the back of neck line by sewn-in either on the top on each sides or on all four sides, Care labels were usually sewn-in on the inside of left-side seam line. The texture of care label was softer than that of brand label and two pieces of care labels were widely used, 3. 67.3% of consumers complained of its stiffness while 36.1% of consumers complained of rough surface and edge 85.4% of consumers complained of an itch caused by brand labels and claimed to detach labels. For care labels 36.6% expressed displeasure of stiffness of labels while 39% complained of annoyance due to too many pieces of labels. 4. Major suggestions from the consumers were change of raw materials and relocation of brand labels. For the care labels changes of material form and type of labels were suggested and one piece of label and smaller size were preferable.

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