• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권4호
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• pp.641-650
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• 2008

In this study, seven models with distinctly different body types were researched and explanatory variables were reviewed. Review was done by using body measurements and the measurements of the appropriate bodice patterns in 1D, 2D, and 3D measurement methods in order to review the pattern making system and the equations for calculating the dimensions of the sleeve caps, which are readily available. Data on human bodies, which can be the criteria for each body part required for the new system for making sleeve cap part, were selected considering conditions such as items with a significantly high contribution rate from the results of regression analysis and the easiness of measurement. As a result of research, an explanatory variable required for the system for making sleeve caps with high general use was extracted. All items with the exception of the waist circumference and upper arm circumference were about the measurement of the form of human bodies, which were newly set in this study. As a result of this study, the equations for calculating the dimensions of each part of the sleeve caps showed distinct differences in comparison to the conventional system of construction.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.137-143
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to prove the work efficiency of PDS by measuring the work time on the process of pattern making of woman's tailored jacket. Also compared to the manual work time, PDS work efficiency is estimated according to experience difference. The YUKA CAD system was used. Through analysis of PDS Process, work time was measured by stop watch. Also the appearance of the 2 jackets was evaluated by a pool of evaluators consisted of graduate students and experienced professional modelist. The results were as follows: The work efficiency of PDS is higher than the work efficiency of manual work. There were significant differences of work time between work types in the expert and inexpert group. A study compared the work efficiency by PDS work type with those by manual work type according to experience difference and found that the work efficiency by PDS in the expert group was 25.3%, in the inexpert group was 35%. There were significant differences of work time between experience groups in PDS work, the work efficiency of expert group to inexpert group in the total pattern making time by PDS was 36.7%. There were no significant differences of appearance of tailored jacket between work types.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제25권2호
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• pp.13-23
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• 1987

The present study is undertaken to utilize the computer in pattern making of Jeugo-ris for women. The results are as follow: 1. Basic points which can be connected to depict basic pattern are represented with the numerical expreession and the curved lines consist of three types of arc. 2. The patterns of Jeugo-ris were automatically depicted by inputting the standard size(large, medium and small) and body measurements for bodice(bust girth, center back length, sleeve length). 3. This program includes the function of expressing the specific parts of patterns and of extending the patterns with or without standard lines.

• 한국가정과교육학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.1-15
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• 1992

The aim of the research is to develop a PC based courseware which is programed to drafts clothing patterns. The pattern making are numerically formulized. The of the program were as follows；1. Menu and instructions are displayed in Korean Language. 2. Easy step-by-step instructions explaining how to draw basic pattern and design pattern. 3. Low cost personal computer and general purpose printer are used. The source program was written in C-language and compiled using Turbop C. The Bezier spline is used to draw curves of pattern and to display Korean characters and pattern on same screen simultaneoulsy, Korean characters are drawn graphically. The low cost IBM Personal Computer or compatibles with Hercules Graphic Card is required to run this grogram.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.208-218
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• 2003

The purpose of the study is to identify the designers' and the patterner's pattern making, draping and the use of dress form in domestic companies of designer's brand to present basic information for effective pattern works. It turned out that the designer brand companies at home use flat pattern and draping at the same time rather than draping only The effects of the use of draping lies in unique designs and elastic materials, which seems proper phenomena for the current design trend such as high duality and diversification. But, draping has such problems that the pattern takes long time to be finished and that the staffs don't acquire well the needed skills due to the lack of draping education. To secure the high added value of fashion, it is required to develop education programs for new skills and to apply draping actively. Also, it requires an educational system in which practice oriented skills are cultivated, and efficient investment into apparel business.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.391-406
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• 1993

The purpose of this study was to utilize of apparel CAD System by the classification of the basic pattern block in pattern making process. Gerber AM-300 CAD System was used for this study. The results form this study were as follows; 1. New shirts block were developed. 2. The sensory test was applied to evaluate the new shirts block for women by comparing it with Japanese Bunka shirts blouse pattern making method. According to a statistical analysis of the result of the 20 items on the questionnaire, the 19 items showed significant difference(${\alpha}{\leq}0.01$)between the two, with the new shirts block having higher scores. 3. A basic pattern block was selected by the design sketch. 4. P/D/S were enabled to be constructed directly from a block pattern. The drawing, deletion. duplication, and movement of all points and lines in the pattern might be made freely, and the split, pivot, and movement of the pattern, and the attachment of two patterns were possible. 5. Automatic grading of finished pattern have been developed by creation and modification of grading rules of block pattern.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권2호
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• pp.266-275
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• 2009

Variations of individual hip shapes are a major obstacle in pattern making for fitness. The drafting method is used for pattern making in today's apparel industry. Whilst catering to a limited number of information such as waist and hip sizes, this method does not cater to variations in hip shape. This paper describes the analysis of hip shapes using 3D body model and tries to make sure the relationship between hip shape and pattern by calculating hip angle and dart amount. We achieved results in analyzing various hip shapes by extracting hip angle. Moreover, various hip shapes can be divided into three types(A, B and C) by the hip angle value($K_{sh}-K_{wsh}$). When we use computerized draping method to make a personalized pattern for a tigth skirt, we easily create complex dart lines automatically. Therefore we achieve the result of individual dart amount such as distance between dart lines and dart areas. C type of hip shape had short dart length, long distance between dart lines and a large amount of dart area. On the other hand, A type had long dart length, short distance between dart lines and small amount of dart area. B type had long length and long distance between dart lines and large amount of dart area. In traditional pattern making, distance between dart lines is usually proportional to amount of dart area because of similarity in dart line shape. In our pattern, there is no proportional relationship between dart line distance and dart area. This means that variations in hip shapes result in a wide variety of dart line curvature resulting in a wide range of dart area. By ensuring an accurate relationship between hip shape and pattern, it is possible to make patterns which result in clothing that not only fits well, but also exhibits other desirable properties.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제34권2호
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• pp.43-55
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• 1996

The purpose of this study was to investigate the slacks pattern making on the movement-fitness of the knee region. The experimental items were divided into the lower limb movement (M1~M5) and slacks pattern designs (4 : basic pattern, in-pleats, side-pleats, seam-line increase). This study was done by clothing pressure test, sensory evaluation test and the difference shape-transformation of wearing-slacks. The summarized finding resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows ; First, the clothing pressure test showed that the order of clothing pressure in the movement was the rabbit leap movement (M3), the sit on knees (M4), the nobleman sitting (M5), the sit on chair (M2) from the highest to the lowest. In the comparison of clothing pressure tested by blocks of lower-limb, center front knee region shows the highest of 300g/cm2. In it by constructional methods, the clothing pressure of in-pleats, side-pleats methods shows lower than basic pattern, hem-line increase methods. Also in comparison of the two methods, in-pleats method shows lower than side-pleats method. Second, by the sensory evaluation test based on the lower-limb movements and constructional methods of slacks, it was found that the functional factor score of the rabbit leap movement was also the waist, hip, knee region was the lowest in all blocks. And in the comparison of constructional methods, in-pleats method was the highest in all methods. Third, in consideration of the difference in the shape-transformation of wearing-slacks on the movement-fitness, pleats pattern design methods showed that the ratio of shape-transformation was lower than basic on seam-line increase methods. But the difference of the side-pleats and in-pleats methods was litle. According to these investigation, the slacks pattern making caused by movement-fitness on the knee region, in-pleats design method was the functional slacks pattern.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.262-278
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to develop the sizing system fur women's glove. The combination of anthropometric and engineering aspects of glove pattern-making is difficult problem in engineering clothing. And the traditional measurements is not enough for glove. Therefore, to develop the hand measurement method and dimension for glove, a comprehensive list of candidate measurements was reviewed and the manufacturers (Their career was over the 15years.) were interviewed on the method of glove pattern-making. This study was conducted traditional and creative 88 two-dimensional anthropometric measurements and 4 photometric measurements for glove pattern-making. In addition, 16 creative measurements were instrumented using a special hand measuring board for measuring of landmark locations on the hand. The subjects were 260 women's right hand in the age group of 18 to 35 years old in Korea.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.25-34
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• 1982

The manufacture of children's wear is another part of the giant industry. However, the production of children's wear remains a small factory operation without scientific study. This study is aimed at establishing the normal sizes for slacks pattern making of 6∼8 years old children. The sample were classified into 5 groups of stature. The findings are as follows: 1) In analysis of stature group 110∼115cm to 130∼135cm there were almost significant differences of the mean values of all items. Comparison of physique shows even variation between stature group. 2) The correlation among all the parts of the body is strong in the case of the Stature. 3) The result of regression analysis is as follows. In slacks pattern making Back Waist Height and Slacks Length were exactly determined by Stature. Waist to Knee were exactly determined by Slacks Length.