• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.778-792
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to identify women (aged from 49~59), who have recently emerged as consumers, and their clothing preferences, and it suggests how to make jackets provide better fit and wearability. The results of the study are as follows. In drafting a pattern for size 66 tailored collar jacket with an X-silhouette, it was made with front waist length measuring B/4+1.5 cm, a back length of B/4+1.3 cm, an armhole depth of B/4, a hip ease of H/4+1.2 cm and a sleeve opening of 34.5 cm, to allow for easy movement. In drafting a size 66 high neck collar jacket, it was made with a front and back waist length measuring B/4+1.5 cm, an armhole depth of B/4, a hip ease of H/4+1.2 cm and a sleeve opening of 35 cm. In drafting a size 66 sports collar jacket with an A-silhouette, it was made with front and back waist lengths measuring B/4+1.5 cm, an armhole depth of B/4, and a side dart of 1.3 cm, to provide raglan sleeves. The last experimental jacket pattern improved the appearance and moving fitness evaluation especially for shoulder and arm movement. Based on analysis, jackets were made and subjected to an appearance evaluation using multi-modules to test the level of wearing satisfaction for each fabric and silhouette. the results of the multi-module wearing tests indicate that the preferred silhouettes caused less stressful situations in terms of both psychological and physiological signals.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.6
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• pp.986-1003
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• 2021

This study was conducted to develop a basic pants pattern reflecting the average body shape of Chinese women in their 20s by using a virtual fitting method. A formula for the research pattern was derived by applying the measured value based on the drafting method of existing patterns. The final pattern was presented through two actual fitting processes. The suitability of the final pattern was then verified through a functional evaluation and an appearance evaluation based on an actual fitting and a virtual fitting. As a result of the evaluations, the final pattern reflected the body shape of Chinese women in their 20s and was evaluated as a higher quality pattern compared to existing patterns. The final pattern was based on the omphalion waist circumference. Ease amounts were set to be the omphalion waist circumference + 1.0 cm, hip circumference + 2.0 cm, and the pants length was set to 94 cm.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.346-359
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• 2012

This study provides basic guidelines to enrich lecture content and teaching methods for university lecturers about basic clothing construction (flat pattern making). The survey was conducted from October $13^{th}$ to December $20^{th}$ 2010 by mail and e-mail on 96 selected clothing departments in Korean universities to investigate the content, method and condition of the course of basic pattern making. A total of 63.3% of survey respondents were PhD graduates, 80 percent majored 'Apparel Science and Technology', average of total teaching experience was 12.84 years and 40 percent had studied abroad. The surveyed universities were 4 year universities (70%), 2-3 year tenure colleges (27%), and Cyber Universities (3%). The average number of students in a class was 28.08 and the lab space and equipment was evaluated positively only when the number of students was 20 or less. The type of measurements for basic pattern drafting were 'individual student's sizes' (62%), 'ready-made clothes sizing system' (25%), 'professor's experiential sizes' (5%), 'dress form sizes' (3%). In addition, the percentage of using 'ready-made clothes sizing system' increased 13% over the previous study (Lee, 2000). At a basic pattern drafting stage, 'the error of body measurements' in the case of using individual student's sizes, 'the poor results of fitting for students who deviate from standard body size' in the case of using ready-made clothes sizing system, 'the lack of education about fitting' in the case of using dress form sizes had been pointed out as shortcomings. A total of 66% of survey respondents carried out muslin fitting; however, a lack of students and teacher feedback about fitting & alteration of paper patterns remained a problem.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.415-428
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• 2004

The purpose of this thesis was to develop torso patterns according to the physical types of men in 20s. The procedure and results are as follows; 1. Of the men in 20s meeting the national average of physique, 4 men were selected and classified into 2 physical types according to their chest and waist circumference drops. One group had 20㎝ drop (Y type) while the other had 16㎝ drop (N type). Through evaluation performed by clothing construction professionals on the 4 upper bodice blocks drafted according to the existent drafting method and dressed on the 4 men, several problems have been found. These problems were adjusted and supplemented to make two new blocks. The fit of the new blocks were evaluated and proved to be satisfactory. 2. The following is the adjustments made to the existent men's torso patterns which had been utilized as the objects the first evaluation experiment. ① Though the back waist length of the pattern from the existent drafting method covered the center back length of the body in both Y type and N type, the front length did not causing it to stand away from the body. To adjust this, 2.0㎝ has been added to the center front length of each pattern so that the waist line could make a bar level to the ground. ② The shoulder line of the pattern from the existent drafting method had the tendency to fall backward. To make the shoulder line to fall in place, it has been moved 1.0㎝ to the front. 0.5㎝ has been added to the should length. ③ The neckline had a tendency to climb up. It has been lowered by 0.5㎝ until the line touched the center front neck point. ④ Though different in degree, the neck circumference did not allow enough width for both physique type causing the neckline to pull at side neck point with diagonal crease. To adjust this, 0.3㎝ and 0.6㎝ has been added to the Y type and N type respectively so that the neckline would touch the side neck point and the neckline could naturally fall into its original position. ⑤ Though different in degree, there was not enough space at the armhole causing wrinkles around this area. Therefore, 0.25㎝ and 0.5㎝ has been added to the front and back of the armholes of the Y and N types respectively. The armhole was made 1.0㎝ deeper only for the N type. ⑥ 1.0㎝ in the front and 0.5㎝ in the back were added to the side scam for the Y type while 0.5㎝ in the front and 0.25㎝ in the back were added for N type. This eliminated the unwanted wrinkles to give the silhouette a smooth look.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.85-102
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• 2015

This study aimed to develop dress torso patterns with both aesthetic and functional qualities that fit for women in their 20s. In order to develop dress torso patterns, wearing tests were done. By collecting drafting methods of the patterns through literature study and the survey of wedding dress manufacturers, four kinds of dress torso patterns were selected. The existing dress torso patterns have no or very small ease in chest, waist, and hip circumferences. As a result of wearing tests of these four existing dress torso patterns, drafting methods of dress torso patterns that have the best satisfied values close to optimum zero were selected; the first and second research dress torso patterns were developed by modifying and supplementing items that had noticeable difference through the Wilcoxon rank sum test with a selected measured value and a best satisfied value of zero; and deduced a drafting method for the final developed dress torso patterns by a wearing test of the second developed dress torso patterns. Distinctive aspects of drafting methods of the final developed dress torso patterns were that ease for each area was given differently by considering a functional quality and a chest circumference instead of a bust circumference was applied to reduce influence by the size of breast in neck and armhole areas, and a back bust level. Back neck breadth was made wider and front neck breadth was made less narrow due to a recent change of age 20s female adults' shoulder and back shape.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.11-21
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• 2009

It is remarkable that the children's wear market has been growing instead of declining birth rate. The parents are willing to pay more when they find children's wear of better design and improved quality. For better quality, it is necessary to research on the pattern making of children's wear. After the interview with the 10 leading children's brands, we found that they develop individual design pattern based on each items middle block pattern which characterize the brands design line. Most frequently used middle block is for casual pants. Through interview with pattern designers, comparative study of patterns drafting methods, wearing test of trial garments and altering and adjustment of patterns, we developed the casual pants block pattern for 7 years old boys.

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.1-15
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• 1992

The aim of the research is to develop a PC based courseware which is programed to drafts clothing patterns. The pattern making are numerically formulized. The of the program were as follows；1. Menu and instructions are displayed in Korean Language. 2. Easy step-by-step instructions explaining how to draw basic pattern and design pattern. 3. Low cost personal computer and general purpose printer are used. The source program was written in C-language and compiled using Turbop C. The Bezier spline is used to draw curves of pattern and to display Korean characters and pattern on same screen simultaneoulsy, Korean characters are drawn graphically. The low cost IBM Personal Computer or compatibles with Hercules Graphic Card is required to run this grogram.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.15 no.4 s.40
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• pp.453-461
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• 1991

The purpose of this research was to develop an automatic design with dialogue function in computer for pants pattern making. AutoCAD including AutoLISP was the programable software package, so AutoCAD were used basically for this research. The conclusions were like these; 1. Dialogue functions of computer allowed the designer to choose emotional elements. 2. The coordinate points needed in drafting for women's pants pattern making were suggest-ed by numerical fomula. So, if the input data of body sizes needed were used, pants patterns for person were automatically obtained as the output. 3. The several curvature parts were presented by using exponent function and the arc drawing of AutoCAD and the degree of bends were to be selected by choosing the simple parameter of algebraic function and arc AutoCAD command. 4. The program permited pattern manipulation and pattern grading of five standard sizes were presented. Also its flow chart by AutoLISP with dialogue function were presented.