• Title/Summary/Keyword: Partial standing wave

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Surface and Internal Waves Scattering by Partial Barriers in a Two-Layer Fluid (이층유체에서 부분 장벽에 의한 표면파와 내부파의 분산)

  • Kumar, P.Suresh;Oh, Young-Min;Cho, Won-Chul
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.20 no.1
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    • pp.25-33
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    • 2008
  • Water waves are generated mainly by winds in open seas and large lakes. They carry a significant amount of energy from winds into near-shore region. Thereby they significantly contribute to the regional hydrodynamics and transport process, producing strong physical, geological and environmental impact on coastal environment and on human activities in the coastal area. Furthermore an accurate prediction of the hydrodynamic effects due to wave interaction with offshore structures is a necessary requirement in the design, protection and operation of such structures. In the present paper surface and internal waves scattering by thin surface-piercing and bottom-standing vertical barriers in a two-layer fluid is analyzed in two-dimensions within the context of linearized theory of water waves. The reflection coefficients for surface and internal waves are computed and analyzed in various cases. It is found that wave reflection is strongly dependent on the interface location and the fluid density ratio apart from the barrier geometry.

An Experimental Study of Sediment Transport Patterns behind Offshore Structure (외해 구조물 배후의 표사이동에 관한 실험적 연구)

  • Shin Seung-Ho;Hong Keyyong
    • Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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    • v.7 no.4
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    • pp.207-215
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    • 2004
  • Recently, securing a vast land in the land region becomes more difficult and efforts to seek its alternation in the sea area have been increased. As a consequence, the coastal region has been faced to extensive beach erosion problems. In planning offshore structures such as artificial islands, it is necessary to forecast the influence of the structure construction exerting on the beach erosion of the adjacent coast. In the present study, the sediment movement pattern behind offshore structure was examined through a series of three dimensional movable bed experiments, so as to develop the numerical model which forecasts morphological change including beach erosions. The experimental results reveal that the sediment movement patterns of the beach line side and the depth region are separated at a certain boundary line. In details, at the beach side including swash zone the sediment movement becomes dominant, which is governed by a relation between depth contours and incident wave directions, while at the depth region the bed load and suspended load due to the orbit motion of waves are carried by nearshore currents, and both movements are clearly separated at a specified boundary that is related to partial standing wave from the beach. It is expected that these results can be effectively used for verification of a numerical model on morphological change of the coast.

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