• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.76-92
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to find the meaning of women's fashion in the city culture of Paris in the nineteenth century by examining paintings by the Impressionists. The research method was based on literature survey and visual examination paintings, 224 paintings(by ${\acute{E}}douard$ Manet, James Tissot, Edgar DeGas, Gustave Cailleboat, Jean $B{\acute{e}}raud$, Pierre-Auguste Renoir) were analyzed in this study. The results are as follows: In the nineteenth century, Paris was a new city with new department stores. Department stores were centers of consumer culture, where the power of capital appeared rather than class. The spatial backgrounds of Impressionist paintings were places where they could see the consumption and leisure culture of urban people, such as outdoor parks, cafes, theaters, ballrooms, bars, streets, and the boats. As for the characteristics of women's fashion in paintings, it was found that various changes of artificial silhouettes were developed. Various frills, ruffles, gatherings, and pleats were thought to have been made by machines. In the urban space, many of the women's costumes stood out because of the black color. Not only the black color came to represent widows and mourning but the black outfits worn by women enhanced their sensual appearances. Women's fashion expressed in Impressionist paintings eventually contained a modern meaning that changed from 'class symbol' to 'expression of taste'. And the symbol of consumer and leisure culture showed, and a Demimonde's fashion became a trendsetter, and painters were used as an important element expressing modernity.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제35권6호
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• pp.1-13
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• 1997

Hipp8ie style was introduced in 1960s when young generation's movement against industrial society and mass culture was spread. Its value was to go back to "Real and Pure Nature". Hippie originated from "Human Be-in" which was on-violent revolution held in sanfrancisco. American Hippie style was represented through freedom and love based on drug and psychedelic culture which were created by the young generation who were against traditional esthetic value as well as the moral and material value. However, Hippie style was represented differently in France. The privilege classes such as artists who were interested in surrealism, art negro and primitive culture, the intelligentsia like Montparnass in Paris, accepted Hippie style faster than ordinary people did. therefor, Hippie style in france was represented as an esthetic mode not a symbol of anti-culture and anti-policy. The general public imitated the style of the privileged classes and coordinated their style according to their personality without any standard such as blue jeans, ethnic, psychedelic, mini, mods, beatnik, etc. Yves Saint Laurent who was influenced by hippies led the mode of Paris to introduce "Africa", "Saharienne", "Pathwork". therefore, in 1960's fashion in Paris, everything was possible because of too many changes in fashion and refusal of accepting vogue.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.381-392
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• 1991

The purpose of this is to investigate the color of Art Deco Fashion in Paris. (1920-1930) Through the age of Art Deco style, the enormous modern cities were built up and numerous life-constructions were designed conspiciously in Paris. Under this situation, the usage of the 'color' became very important element of design area and also it bestowed new form upon the modern design. The black beauty of Art Deco style was the outcomes of cubism, black-arts, and pragmatism. And the black beauty was regarded as the proper color to represent simplicity. Simplicity was the best way to express Art Deco style. The color and light of metal were used adequately to express a geometrical and streamline form; it was raised as a new beauty in this period. The primary colors were used to recognize the simplified forms effectively. New pastel colors, which signified differently with Art Nouveau were born centering around the Youth Culture like a summer resort and a sun bath. Also they expressed neon signs and atmosphere of beach by means of the tropical colors. At last the color of Art Deco style opened the new age. And it was started to use the various colors in design field from at this time.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.361-370
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• 2005

This study was intended to investigate intertextuality expressed in fashion; intertextuality within fashion as sex, T.P.O., texture, and coordination and intertextuality between fashion and other genre like animation, music, film and technology. Intertextuality obtained by mixing the masculine and feminine text, coordinating various element without regarding T.P.O., texture has contributed to expending aesthetic realm and redefining the aesthetic value of traditional fashion design. The influence of animation, music, film on fashion and the interaction between these genre and fashion integrated high-class fashion and street-fashion, created the multicultural hybrid. Moreover according to the change of lifestyle the fashionable technical clothing was needed and developed. The intertextual tendency in the 21st-century fashion has given the new possibility of fashion design.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2003년도 International Costume Conference
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• pp.68-68
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• 2003

Recently, street fashion has been regularly introduced in many fashion media because both consumers and marketers began to recognize the importance of street fashion as a meaningful and objective fashion information source. As the globalization proceeds in fashion field,' the street fashion informations in major cities which has led world fashion trends become more influential on domestic fashion, but little concern has been paid on it. This study classified women's street fashion in 4 major world fashion cities such as Paris, London, New York, Tokyo and identified style characteristics of each group. For data collection, 795 front-view photos were selected from the two fashion trade publication 'STREET' and 'VIEW' which has introduced street fashion photos in those cities from 1996. Classification process went on three stages: sorting, naming and grouping. 49 undergraduate students were divided into 12 teams and about 80 photos were given to each team to sort into several sub-groups by overall images or common style characteristics. Then each sub-group was named according to common images or characteristics. Final groups came out after grouping each sub-group with a similar or same title together. For each group, common style characteristics were analyzed.

• 복식
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• 제67권3호
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• pp.31-46
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to analyse the occurrence and evolution of Mao suit which is important position in the modern costume history of China and to provide a source of design inspiration to contemporary fashion designers. In the research method, literature review and case studies was conducted in parallel. For the literature review, changes of Mao suit in each age were reviewed with reference to the related documents, Chinese costume and cultural history, prior research papers and internet resources. The case analysis was qualitatively done focusing on the silhouette, color and detail of clothes in fashion collections. The scope of the study was from 1912 to 2000. The case analysis of the Mao suit applied to the contemporary fashion was made on the applications centered around 'London Collection', 'New York Collection', 'Paris Collection', 'Milan Collection' and 'Chinese Fashion Week' from 2008 to 2015. The results found that Mao suit changed into many different forms after Sun Wen designed it for the first time in 1912. This study classified it into Phase 1(1912~1927), Phase 2(1928~1965), Phase 3(1966~1977), and Phase 4(1978~2000) with historical and political issues and conformational changes in Mao suit. The frequency analysis of the cases of the fashion collections using Mao suit from 2008 to 2015 showed an increased application of Mao suit to the western collection in New York, Paris and London in 2008 due to the impact of Beijing Olympics. However, from 2009 onwards, the frequency of the utilization of Mao suit was higher in the Chinese Fashion Week and the New York Collection. This cause is explained by the fact that the designers who inspired from Mao suit in the New York Collection are American Chinese.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.94-110
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• 2008

The main objective of this research was to understand the characteristics of separation color coordination of contemporary female fashion through the analysis of 'pre-a-porter Collections' of four collections (i. e. cities) - Paris, Milan, New York, London - from the periods of 2004 S/S to 2008/9 A/W. The data collection of 265 was done by reviewing 'pre-a-porter Collections' magazine and total 265 observations were made. Statistical analysis of frequency and also qualitative interpretation of separation color coordination characteristics were completed. The main findings were; (1) In separation color coordination of contemporary women's fashion collections, there were three main types of color scheme which were classified into seven detailed categories of color combination. First was the achromatic color & one chromatic separation color scheme which was classified into four categories of - black & white, black & grey, white & grey, and grey & grey - color combination. Second was the chromatic colors & one achromatic separation color scheme which classified into two categories of achromatic & chromatic color & one achromatic separation color combination, and chromatic colors & one achromatic separation color combination. Third was chromatic colors and one chromatic separation color combination. (2) The achromatic colors and one chromatic separation color scheme showed two phases of reinforcing the strong and modern image, or softening the hard and dull image of achromatic color combination. In color schemes which used more than two chromatic colors, the separation color frequently converted the tedious and monotonous fashion image, which caused by identical or similarity in color or tone harmony, into more attractive and interesting. (3) In conclusion, through the various use and coordination of various color schemes, color harmony and separation colors, the separation color coordination in contemporary female fashion has been suggested the effective way of color combination which can lead the visual pleasure and the vitality along with the unity and the harmony. This characteristics can create various images and visual diversity for fashion. The types and the use of color scheme and separation color showed different trends in four collections.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제3권5호
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• pp.444-454
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• 2001

The purpose of this paper was to identify and compare the underlying design theory of contemporary European and Japanese fashion designers by using the qualitative research method of grounded theory developed by Glaser and Strauss (1967) and Glaser (1978). In this research, four fashion sites-Paris, Milan, London and Tokyo-were selected. The researcher stayed in each site for a period of two to three weeks for the purpose of data collection. A total of 60 fashion designers, educators, students and journalists were interviewed. 53 open-ended design questionnaires were returned by fashion designers and students. 19 on-site observations of fashion designers and educators were done. Grounded theories of fashion designers were synthesized from in-depth interviews, participant observations and questionnaire surveys of fashion designers, students and educators. The results of theory-building research suggested that there were significant differences between the grounded design theories of European and Japanese fashion designers due to their various cultural contexts.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.121-133
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• 2017

This study investigates the design relation between shoulder line and sleeve line for designing bulky silhouettes as well as examines the trend sensitivity and design difference of each city through a comparison of the four cities collection (Paris, Milan, London, and New York). The results are as follows. In the four major fashion capitals, the rates of all-season coats were higher in 2014/15 F/W than those in the 2013/14 F/W season. At the 2014/15 F/W season, the proportion of the bulky silhouette coat, (including the fur and cape coat) increased and confirmed the bulky silhouette fashion trend. Second, an examining of the proportion of bulky silhouette coats manufactured by leading brands in major cities, indicated that London brands readily followed the trend of bulky silhouette coats when compared to other cities. This trend was also accepted by most brands in New York. Most brands in London and New York are highly compliant with the latest fashion trends. Third, the drop shoulder design was mostly presented in the shoulder pit of the bulky coat. In case of the sleeve, the shape of the jar was kept wide at the elbow line and made narrower toward the beak in most bulky silhouette coats. The importance of shoulder and sleeve design is clearly highlighted in the bulky silhouette coat. Fourth, detail design trends were different according to type of sleeve and shoulder fit. The results show the relationship between shoulder and sleeve design.

• 복식
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• 제66권2호
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• pp.90-102
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• 2016

The purpose of this research was to give the basic educational sources that could nurture creative fashion designers for the creative advancement of the fashion industry. After investigating and categorizing the ideation behind designer collections in four fashion capitals - Paris, London, Milan and New York, the materialization of concepts was analyzed in relation to inspiration and design elements. As a result, design inspiration was classified into figures, artworks and art trends, historicity of fashion, regional features, natural objects, artificial objects, abstract concepts, clothing for specific occasions, events, and others. This study found that inspiration for fashion design comes from various fields, and that creative design skills can be nurtured through ideation training using a wide variety of subjects.