• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.167-186
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• 1994

The purpose of his study is to investigate the relationship between the business cycle and the fashion of silhouette from 1956 to 1992. Correlation analysis an regression analysis were used to investigate the relation of them. In this study, the coincident composite index was used as business cycle and change of skirt in length and width, collar and pants in width wee thoroughly checked through graphs and photographs. The results of analysis are as follows. 1. When the economy is to ascend, the skirts are short and narrow. On the country, when the economy is descend, they are long and wide. 2. The business cycle gives influence on skirts line and with, that is, about 18%, 33% of total changes. 3. In change of fashion, skirts length and width had significant positive correlation and they showed a tendency to move together. On the other hand, the change of collar and patterns in width have no connection with business fluctuation. 4. The change of fashion is affected by the movement of itself. According to analysis that includes the trend of skirts, about 50%, and 35% of changes in skirts length and width were decided by them,. and about 52% and 35% of change in collar and patterns width were decided by them.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.1001-1009
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to provide information on how to improve both the satisfaction and the current sizing system for the school summer uniform focused on middle and high school students. In order to collect the data, a questionnaire was administered to middle and high school students, and 1,153 data were analyzed. For the satisfaction of their school uniform, there were statistical differences in mean of gender in the design(upper garment) and design & activity(lower garment). On the other hand, students' evaluation of summer school uniform was significantly different in the upper garment(textile, design, activity), and lower garment(design, activity) by school age. For the evaluation of sizing fitness, the length and width of the summer upper garment(blouse/shirts) and the length and width of the summer garments( pants/skirts) were statistical differences in mean of gender or sexuality whereas there were significant differences in the summer upper garment(length, width, the length of sleeve, the width of sleeve, armhole) and the summer lower garment(length, width) by school age.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.110-122
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• 2001

The purposes of this study was to examine the present situation of merchandise assortment and informations in internet fashion shopping mall. Merchandise assortment dimensions were width and depth. Merchandise assortment factors for apparel were style, size, and color. Merchandise informations were investigated using price and fabric contents. The data were collected from 11 internet fashion site to investigate styles. colors, sizes. price and fabric contents. The data analysed with frequency. crosstab analysis, $\chi$$^{2}$-test. The results were as follow : 1. Upper items(37.5%) as T, knits, shirts, and blouses were offered more style than bottom items(13.5%) as skirts, pants. 2. The 36.4% of styles offered one color. Basic color as black, white, grey, beige, ivory was 38.1%. 3. The 54.4% of merchandises carried same size. 4. Fiber contents was made up of cotton(44.2%). hemp & rayon(22.5%), and synthetic (33.3%). 5. The 75.1% of merchandise was relatively low price of below 50,000 won, the 24.9% of merchandise was rather high price of more than 50.000 won.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.129-142
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• 2006

This research chose 135 environmental cleaners in Busan Metropolitan City as subjects. First, the reality of wearing their safety jackets was investigated. Next, visual evaluation of the reflexive function of the current safety jackets was made. Then, based on the above results and the subsequent improvement proposal, the final product, the research costume, was made. 1. Based on the investigation of the wearing reality of safety jackets and the visual evaluation results of the reflexive function, an improvement proposal was made. As cleaners are usually seen sidewise on the roads and lateral luminosity is rather low, this aspect was compensated on the part of a jacket. Also, the reflexive belt used the diagram of ${\Delta}$ to improve visual effects. 2. As the lower body held the accident frequency of 45.0%, the sides of pants had the reflexive belt to increase visibility. 3. In consideration of the mutual effects between the background cloth and general reflexive width, the same width (5cm) of the reflexive belt as that of Type A was adopted.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.89-103
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of accordion pleats shown in 10/11 S/S London, Paris, New York collection and evaluate the differences of visual image by variations in the width of pleats and the length of the accordion pleats skirt. The stimuli are 21 samples: 7 variations of the width of pleats and 3 variations of the length of skirt. The data has been obtained from 43 fashion design majors. The data has been analyzed by Factor Analysis, Anova, Scheffe's Test. The results of the study are as follows: Accordion pleats was first introduced by Marriano Fortuny. He published delphos dress by creating silk pleats manufacturing technique and it was recognized as the best pleats work. Since then, pleats with synthetic fiber characteristics were used by many fashion designers. Accordion pleats were used in various items including one-peice, skirt and pants in collection of 2010 and 2011. The design of accordion pleats skirt used different width of pleats, length of the skirt and materials. The visual image by the width of pleats and the length of skirt are composed of 3 factors : dearness, attractiveness and elegance. In these factors, dearness factor is estimated by the most important factor. The accordion p1eats skirt is most attractive and dear when the width of pleats is the shortest, 1/8", and the width of 4/8" and 5/8" follows. The accordion pleats skirt is most attractive and dear when the length of skirt is similar to that of mini-skirt, and the skirt was estimated to be elegant as the skirt gets longer. When the length of skirt is in between, the skirts were estimated to be ambiguous in all visual images. The interaction effect of visual image according to the changes in width of pleats and skirt length of accordion pleats skirt was seemed to have significant differences by factors, and the main effect had great differences in all factors.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.934-942
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• 2011

This study was intended to analyze conventional grading increments and methods for middle-age men's pants, and to suggest new grading guidelines that will enable to improve satisfaction with size and silhouette as a result of combining the concept of grading, which help maintain the ratio and proportion by sizes as one of ready-made apparel's advantages, with body form oriented and aesthetic approaches. In the apparel industry, the current sizing specifications and methods adopted by relevant companies, as well as the characteristics of body forms of men aged 35 to 55 years were comparatively analyzed to find out problems and ultimately to suggest their solutions or improvements. It was considered that as the conventional grading practices used in the industry were customary on the basis of the past experiences, it was required to take the body forms of target consumers into account and also, to reconsider the conventional grading methods. Analyses of sizing and specifications by brands show that 4 to 19 sizes including 82 or 84 as standard size have been produced. Since men's apparel has a large number of sizes with the large range of sizes, grading is critically important. As silhouettes depend on the distribution of grading rule values at each point of increment pattern in the main regions during grading, it is necessary to consider both size grading and form variations. To maintain an appropriate silhouette with keeping the angle of center back line of a pattern, it is desirable to set the ratio of side line part to center part from the crease line to approximately 3:7. It is required to diversify the values of grading rules according to different sizes and pattern regions in consideration for the body forms of key consumers. In addition, if the natural lines of designs and patterns for the width increments of waist circumference and hip circumference, the increments of hip width in pant's front and back panels, the ratio of grading rule values of the right and left sides of crease line, knee circumference, thigh circumference and so on are taken into account, grading will be satisfactory in the all aspects of size, silhouette and ratio.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.800-814
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• 2015

This study develops baseball uniforms for amateur baseball players with excellent appearance and functional movement. This study selected a conventional baseball uniform and developed a new one for amateur baseball players with improved function and appearance based on previous research results. In case of developed baseball uniform materials, this study used polyurethane mixed fabric for the top to improve flexibility. A mesh material was used at the armpit, back, and bottom of the top, side line of pants and pockets to improve breathability. In addition, quilted material was added to the knee to improve durability and protection. For the patterns and design, this study used a gusset under the arm to assist in comfortable movement as well as reduced the length of the top and circumference of the hem to decrease unnecessary parts. For the pants, this study used a waistband gripper to avoid the top riding up, added darts behind the knees to bend comfortably, and added additional fabric inside the hem to prevent dirt. In addition, we reduced the width and length of the pants. Wearing evaluation was divided into appearance evaluation by experts and on-site-wearing test by baseball players. The wearing evaluation results for the developed baseball uniform indicated higher evaluations than a conventional baseball uniform in all sections as well as showed significant differences in all sections. The result of movement adaptability evaluation showed the highest satisfaction for 'the top does not ride up' and 'dirt do not get in'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.6
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• pp.32-45
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to propose changes that can be made to improve nurse uniforms in terms of outfit and functionality based on actual wearing conditions and nurse's preference. The proposed nurse uniform was composed of a blouse and pants. The design was as follows: the blouse had short set-in sleeve with China collar, a princess line, and it came down to middle hip. Armhole action pleats and back inverted pleats were embedded for convenient arm movements. The pants waist had a rubber band at the back waist, and the crotch length and the knee width were increased for activity. To make the pocket more accommodative, separate pocket slots treated with silicone were added to prevent belongings from coming out of the pocket. The pink tone of the uniforms, as well as the stripes on the blouses and spandex incorporated pants were based on nurses' preference. the nurse uniforms were produced after measuring the size of women in the age of 25 to 29, and the uniform patterns were corrected after two wearing experiments. Wearing test was examined in terms of appearance and functionality. For appearance, experts gave the uniforms a mean rating of 4.30, and nurses gave a mean rating of 4.00. Functionality was evaluated in terms of ease of activity and storage aspects. The total mean of ease of activity in nursing service was 4.30, whereas the evaluation of storage in terms of pocket position and convenience was 3.80.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.129-143
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• 1997

This study is about'The Costumes of Ch'oyong dance. (namely Ch'oyong-mu-bok; 처용무복)': emphasis on its structure and change. 1 studied Akhakguebum (the book of music and dance; 낙학궤범), Eui-Gue-Do (a collection of a series of paintings showing the whole processes of the royal courtesies and ceremonies; 의궤도) and some genre painting (풍증화). 'The costumes of Ch'oyong-Dance'were composed of robe(의), pants-skirt(대) , outer-skirt (상) , scarf-string(천의·길경) , shirt(한삼) , hat with mask (사교·가면) , belt(대) and shoes (혜) . According to the position, the colours of robe(의) and pants-skirt(군) were different. What is called, it is'the Colour of Five-Position (오방색) .'The Costumes of choyong-Dance' can be divided three factors by its symbolic means; i. e. shamanism, buddhism and bureaucratism. The pants-skirt(군), outer-skirts(상), scarf · string(천의·길경) and mask are considered as shamanic factor. However, the scarf(천의) , string(길경) and patterns(만화)which are decorated with many lotus patterns enclosed with vine are considered as buddhistic factor. And the hat (사모) , robe(의) , outer-skirt(상) , belt(대) and shoes(잔) are considered as bureaucratic factor. Ch'oyong is endowed with some power by these factors, and its symbolic means became stronger and enlarged by 'the Colour of five-position'. As time goes, the forms and details of robe had been changed noticeable; sleeve-width, neck-line and patterns. The shamanic, buddhistic and bureaucratic factors are reduced. These changes were derived from the changes of Ch'oyong·Dance. On the ground of the shape of mask and round-neckline robe(단영) , someone has an opinion that Ch'oyong is an aribian. However, according to this study, Ch'oyonh is Korean traditional thing; round-neckline robe already existed and settled in Silla dynasty and Ch'oyong-mask symbolized shamanic power.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.60 no.2
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• pp.273-287
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• 2022

(K)Hanbok, which is Korea's traditional clothing, differs from the Chinese Hanfu or Japanese Kimono. This study aims to understand the fundamental differences between (K)Hanbok and Hanfu. The Goryeo Dynasty (K)Hanbok, which was particularly popular in China, was established because the Ming Dynasty Hanfu and Chinese fashion were considerably influenced by the 'Koryo Yang'. Firstly, while (K)Hanbok is bulky, Hanfu of the Han Dynasty is characterized by forming a slim silhouette. Due to the climate of the Northern Hemisphere, (K)Hanbok shows a rich silhouette comprising multiple layers of inner pants and a pleated skirt over a voluminous underskirt. On the other hand, the Han's Hanfu creates a straight silhouette in the form of a wrap, revealing the contours of the body. The pleated skirt of the (K)Hanbok can use six to twelve width fabrics, depending on the social position; however, the Hanfu of the Han is a skirt without any pleats. Secondly, the clothing patterns, which have various shapes, are totally different in how they are made and sewn. The Korean (K)Hanbok is a two-piece separate, whereas the Chinese Hanfu style is a one-piece with a skirt. The short length of the (K)Hanbok jacket has a Sup which is cut and pasted allowing the front closure to overlap. Nevertheless, the Hanfu of the Han does not have this Sup because it is of a wrap-around, one-piece style and has an exceptionally large front, and wraps around at the waist which extends to the sides. Thirdly, the (K)Hanbok jacket has separate string Gorums for fastening, and an additional belt around the waist; however, in the case of Gorum, it is unnecessary for a wrapping style of Hanfu. Fourthly, Koreans as an agricultural horse-riding people, basically wore the trousers attached a comfortable gusset, while the Chinese Hanfu had no pants, but the Chinese wore Gaedanggo pants which exposed the hips, inevitably during the Warring States period.