• Journal of the Korean Society for Heat Treatment
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.355-359
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• 2000

Ion beam assisted deposition system was used to deposit CNx coatings with various thickness on the substrates of high-frequency induction hardened steels. Rolling contact fatigue tests were performed using Polymet RCF-1 machine with a constant supply of lubricant. Rolling contact fatigue life was substantially different in the steels with various thickness of CNx coatings. The optimum thickness of CNx coating was found to be $8.9{\mu}m$, showing the longest fatigue life, mainly caused by higher resistance to initiation of cracks and protective overcoat remaining to the surface failure during rolling contact fatigue. Cracks were initiated in the substrates under the surface of wear track and propagated to the surface, which eventually resulted in the failure. The reduction of fatigue life observed in the specimen with elimination of CNx coating during rolling contact fatigue was explained by the substrates deformation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.889-897
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• 2012

This study suggests a direction for stage-costume design by making stage costumes based on amusement, eclecticism, and the masquerade, which are the criteria for approaching stage costume designs according to characteristics of the mask theatre presented by P. G. Bogatyryov. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, criteria to approach stage costume design for mask theatre can be classified into amusement, eclecticism, and masquerade according to the characteristics of the mask theatre presented by P. G. Bogatyryov. Second, the stage costume of a mongrel dog showed amusement through the expression of the image of therianthropy through the combination of a fur-lined vest and wristlet, Korean traditional trousers with the paw-prints of a dog. Third, eclecticism contains diverse characteristics and escapes from being singularly defined due to the fusion of severally different heterogeneous objects. The stage costume differently used a method of wearing clothing in a different period, of choosing clothing materials, and of expressing color in every character to indicate ambiguity to which the drama points through the integration of various expression elements. Fourth, the masquerade present characters (Taembang, Daejang, and Changseok)who simultaneously play the role of fairies after having changed into a white mask and having worn Korean a traditional overcoat (Durumagi) on the original clothes; the, result is the change of the theatrical structure into another time and space inside the theatrical scene of imagination through a concealment of the original clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.119-128
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to examine the military look, which is one of the most popular fashion trends in the 1996 women's fashion. Military look is that imitates or reinterprets the Army uniform which is functionally useful. After World War 1 , military look appeared in the women's fashion which is functionable tailor suits style, ankle-length skirt, pants or boiler suits for work wear, overcoat against the cold, and there was an attempt to introduce a National Standard Dress. In the middle of World War II, there was a similiar circumstance in women's military fashion. There were functionable tailor suits, knee-length skirt, pants or siren suits for work wear. And the Utility Dress was nationally recommended. In addition, the regulations were introduced to control the materials and styles used for some clothes. In the 70s, as the resistance movement as counterculture began to wear Army look which was army-uniform or army caps with 'US ARMY' logo and badges, and became very popular among the youth. In the 90s, military look has got one of the fashionable fashion themes with revival of Neo- Hippie look. Not only street fashion but also high fashion designer selected the trend for '96A/W The characteristics of the military look are khaki colors or camouflage prints, epaulets, big outpockets with flap, golden buttons and army belt. As I examined, during the World War I and ll, women wore the military look because of shortage of goods and work or service, and it was recommended by government. Though the military look in 70s, began by the resistance movement, at least it became a popular fashion. Military look in 90s, does not have inner symbolic meaning or ideology but it only represents fashion trend and revival fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.1-14
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to study the movie costume and color image through the movie"Vertigo". Firstly, looking into the clothing style and the color image of the characters expressed in the movie, Scottie who had the physical limitation had phobia of height, and he was expressed with the gray color to show his lethargic feeling from his physical limitation. And, after the death of Madeleine, it expressed his sense of loss and depressed mind through the blue color. The comparison of green and red color that was used to link the two characters in Madeleine and her substitution, Judy, mystified her, and the image of dreamy Madeleine has been inscribed to Scottie. In addition, the green color expressed her unstable mind. The clothing expression of Judy is expressed with her unstable mind through the detailed clothing, unlike Madeleine. And, the black color expressed the false identity of her and the Madeleine image of his own for Scottie. The type of clothing is expressed in separates suit and overcoat that are representative ones in 1950s, and black dress with the square neckline and others expressed the silence on conspiracy of Gavin and the false identity of her. Secondly, the color image expressed in the background in the movie as a special space for Scottie and Madeleine. The blue color image for Scottie was shown to be as space for death and the green image for Madeleine as a fantasy.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.34
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• pp.195-208
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• 1997

1) The color of JOGORI and CHIMA was such gorgeous and those garments were put on during the events of GAM-EUNG-CHUNG-BAI HO-GU-GEO-RI JO-SANG-GEO-RI DEWT-JUN and CHAN-BOO-GEO-RI. 2)BULSA-JANG-SAM(JE-SUK-GEO-RI) was white colored and had wide sleeves putting on a pink priestrobe and a pink belt on it 3) they put on HONG-CHUL-NIK(GU-REUNG) and CHONG-CHUL-NIK(DAE-GEO-RI). 4)They put on GOO-GUN-BOK(JUN-RIP JUN-BOK(BYUL-SUNG-GEO-RI) DONG-DA-RI(Expel the demon) 5) MONG-DOO-RI(MAN-SIN-MAL-BYUNG) put on the garment constructed with the color and from of a white straight collar a wide sleeve and a pink belt 6) A long robe was colored with green (GAM-EUNG-CHUNG-BAI) and was used not as a headdress but as a man's overcoat. 7) CHANG-EUI was a green colored small CHAHG-EUI(SUNG-JO-GEO-RI). As observed above the Shaman apprel during Chosun Dynasty is a part of the traditional clothing originated from THE THEORY OF THE COSMIC DUAL FORCES and THEORY OF THE COSMIC DUAL FORCES and the FIVE ELEMENTS (i.e. metal wood water fire and earth) It's basic form and wearing method were not so different from the traditional clothing silmilar to the official uniform during Chosun Dynasty and the official uniform was the symbol of authority(almost almighty) at that time of period and to that the Shaman apparel was constructed with the more gorgeous colors to emphasize the sanctity or the descent of the Divine Being from heaven. We realized that a Shaman had put on the symbolic garment suitable for the grade and nature of the Divine Body at every events to enter into " The World of Gods"Gods."

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.2
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• pp.20-34
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• 2010

This study is intended to suggest the characteristic of dress and its ornament introduced in terms of naturalized words on Korean newspapers and magazines published from the age of enlightenment to the Independence(1876-1945). First of all, naturalized words in that period(1876-1945) can be classified into words originated in Japanese, words originated in western countries and borrowed words came from Japan. Borrowed words which came from Japan are almost related to Japan's traditional dress like Gudu, Gabang, Kimono, Nemaki, Ebijahagama, Hagama, Sirusibanden, Doriachi, Dombi, Sarumada, Sseumeeri, Doriachi, and Mombbe. Borrowed words originated in western countries are like Frock coat, Bonnet, Necktie, Chapeau, Scotch, Homespun, Chamois, Skirt, Spring Coat, Ribbon, Silk hat, Panama hat, Handbag, Pajama, Shawl, Apron, Cuffs, Pocket, Handkerchief, Morning coat, Combination-one piece, Rain Coat, Burberry, and Permanent, etc. Borrowed words came from Japan is Lasa[raxa], jokki[jaket], Les[lace], Veludo[velvet], Bbanss[pants], Oba[overcoat], Meliyas[medias], Shass[shirt], Manto[manteau], and Sebiro[civil clothes]. As we can see from the result of research, borrowed words from the age of enlightenment to the Independence was because of its special social situation, Japanese imperialism, they are divided into real western words and words came from Japan or Japanese. In terms of items, a lot of words related to men's suit and women's dress, accessory, etc. It confirms that men's dress was westernized in the whole part compared to partially westernized women's one. A lot of words used at that period are now adapted to Korean language and became the foundation of words used in the current dress and its ornament area.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.1
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• pp.122-134
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• 2016

The Mural Tomb of Xu Xianxiu(AD 571), a high ranking official in Northern Qi period, is located in Taiyuan, Shanxi province, China. Despite having been raided, it was still discovered to contain over 530 pieces, such as artifacts and murals, in excellent state of preservation. These murals are noteworthy for their high level of detail compared to other murals from the same era, and are important for understanding the historical context of active East-West and Han-Hu cultural exchange in the $6^{th}$ to $7^{th}$ century. The murals of Xu Xianxiu's tomb depict round-collared and narrow-sleeved garments as well as straight collared robes typical of the Xianbei tribe's attire. Notable are the ermine fur overcoat and a headwear with flares on the left and right thought to be unique to the Xianbei. The wife and female servants show female attire of the Xianbei at the time; this attire can be characterized by narrow-sleeved long gowns and asymmetrical flying-bird buns. Despite the anti-Han policy of Northern Qi, influences such as the right sided gathering of the robes and embellished hair styles remain. The procession also depicts the three-cornered headdress and long-tailed hood of the Xianbei men, which have been recorded in documents. The large rounded pearl pattern containing the palmette, the divine animal, and bodhisattva's head motifs show the influence of the Western China [Xi'yu]. Considering that Northern Qi had more active interactions with the three ancient kingdoms of Korea than with the Southern Kingdoms[Nanchao], the findings of this study call for further research on the correlation between the attire of ancient Korea and Northern Qi.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.17-29
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• 2016

Though the po as the basic apparel of the Joseon Dynasty period was various in kind as it was worn by people of different times, places, duties and statuses. it was unified as Juui with apparel reform at the late Joseon Dynasty. Though people of today have good feelings about hanbok, they rarely wear it because of its uncomfortable wearing sensation and the fastidious care after its use. However, efforts should be made to develop designs and to improve its use convenience through the study on the Korean traditional clothing now that overseas examples exist in which other countries' traditional clothing was successfully popularized. In this regard, targeting the children in their preschool ages when their socialization arises along with their physical development that have great influence on their adulthood, this study aims to suggest a design of overcoats that combines the various characteristics of the po in Joseon Dynasty period with those of the modern children's overcoats so that they might have positive attitudes towards Korean traditional clothes, and to contribute to its popularization. The study applied the characteristics of po to the design of children's overcoats so that children and their parents could choose to wear them with little repulsion. In this way, it attempted to resolve the inconveniences of the Korean traditional clothes and make the general public have positive perception about them. It is expected that the continuous development of the design that combines the Korean traditional clothes and children's clothes will contribute to the popularization of the Korean traditional clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.4 no.1_2
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• pp.49-56
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• 1980

Because of the scarcity of data, a study of costume during the Baikje period can be made imaginarily only with historical records as data. According to records, Baikje costume was almost the same as that of the Koguryo period. Consequently, we may well imagine Baikje costume by means of studying such materials as the mural paintings found in Koguryo tombs and the remains found in the royal tomb of Munyung. The basic form of costume of the Baikje period, therefore, might have been like this: Both male and female wore a kind of jacket(유: JEOGORI) and trousers(고: BAJI) with female-wearing skirt (상: CHIMA) thereon. Both men and women wore overcoat(포: DURUMAGI). They used to wear headdress(관모) and used leather shoes(화) Such a form of costume can be found in the costume of HANIWA(식륜) of Japan, which belonged to the costume of HOBOK (호복) of the northern area. Under the SHIMNEUK-PUM-KWAN-KE(십육품관계) system, that is, 16 grades of official ranks, officials of the Baikje dynasty wore clothes, coronets and belts, all of which differed from one another in colors, according to ranks. Such a system of Baikje might have influenced the KANI-JUNI-KAI (the 12-grade color discrimination of the coronet, 관위십이계) for the government officials of ancient Japan the Suiko period. For the study of such matters, I have tried to review the flow of the Korean culture into ancient Japan in the field of costume.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.87-101
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• 2019

The sleeve is closely connected with activity in terms of costume. As a kind of overcoat, Dap-ho of the Joseon Dynasty is short-sleeved or sleeveless. Dap-ho, with simple sleeves is convenient for layering and taking off and since it is easily adjustable using a gusset, a slit, or coat string, and this can be applied to layered look-related designs. This study aims to suggest a design item, which sustains the existence of traditional costumes and facilitates diverse layered looks and co-ordination, using the formative elements of Dap-ho. For this study, theoretical backgrounds and relics of Dap-ho of the Joseon Dynasty were analyzed, based on the previous studies, ancient literature, "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty", and relics preserved in museums. The analysis targeted nine relics that show the birth and death years and the constructive changes in shapes, colors, materials of Dap-ho. Formative elements of Dap-ho were applied to the designing and the manufacturing of clothes for middle-aged women in their fifties and the research conclusions are as follows. First, from a morphological perspective, the silhouette, gusset, slit, and the indirectly attached coat string of Dap-ho are good to be used as various design items for covering the body shapes of middle-aged women, and the short-sleeved or sleeveless type is convenient to be layered. Second, when it comes to the material, it is possible to emphasize a traditional image and practicality at the same time by mixing and matching the Hanbok cloth and cotton. Third, in relation to the colors, the coexistence-based color arrangement method considering the theory of Yin and Yang can be applied to modern clothes and this makes it possible to express a traditional image in a harmonious way.