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Chinoiserie in the Eighteenth-Century Rococo Fashion (18세기 로코코 패션에 나타난 시누아즈리[Chinoiserie])

  • Shin Jooyoung;Kim Min-Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.56 no.1 s.100
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    • pp.13-31
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    • 2006
  • This study will explore Rococo chinoiserie not only as a prominent style of the decorative arts in general, but also as an important factor that influenced $18^{th}$ century fashions in dress. Two premises support the conclusion of this study. One is that the chinoiserie is truly a hybrid, a totally new style resulting from the mixture of various traditional elements from the East and the West, with little regard for the authentic nature of the original styles. The other is that the geographical scope for defining the chinoiserie influence in the Rococo fashion can be expanded beyond its lexical meaning; the style eventually encompassed visual cues from various Eastern cultures including China, India and Turkey. Regardless of the specific origins, the oriental influences for Rococo fashion can be categorized into two types. The first type is a complete appropriation of structural elements of Eastern clothing, such as pagoda hats, pagoda sleeves, turbans decorated with plumes or fur-trimmed open robes and then combining them with Western dress. These exotic and fancy dress ensembles were worn as masquerades, theatrical costumes or portraits. One extraordinary example is the banyan, a man's dressing gown, which also had a place in everyday life, not just as special costume. Although the banyan became more tailored as time passed, the traditional shape of this Eastern garment was accepted unaltered in the beginning of the $18^{th}$ century. The second type of influence shows in the use of eastern textiles, especially silks, which were made into women's dress. It did not matter to the fashionable lady if her dress was made of the silk produced in China or a European copy of the Chinese original, as long as it satisfied her taste. It is difficult to detect the signs of exotic style from a glance in this type of chinoiserie dresses since it was more ambiguous and conservative adaptation of the oriental influence in Rococo dress styles than the first type. In this study, various oriental influences appearing in $18^{th}$ century Rococo fashions can be defined as part of the chinoiserie style based upon the suggested premises. No matter what the origin of these oriental fashions was, this hybrid of the East and West made one of great impacts on the most frivolous and splendid period of western fashion history.

A Study on the Convective Characteristics of The Gilt-bronze Incense Burner of Baekje through the Incense-Burning Experiment (분향실험을 통한 백제금동대향로 내부 대류특성 연구)

  • Kim, Seon Yeong;Hwang, Hyun Sung
    • Journal of Conservation Science
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    • v.35 no.5
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    • pp.470-479
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    • 2019
  • The objective of this study is to identify the reason behind the expansion of exhaust holes and inhalational holes through high-definition filming and measurement of The Gilt-bronze Incense Burner of Baekje. In the proposed experiment, based on the original data obtained after a precise three-dimensional (3D) scan of the said incense burner, the precision replica and the commercial replica of the incense burner were subjected to a 3D scan. The overall shape and detailed patterns were subsequently compared with the original data. Furthermore, the incense-burning experiment was conducted according to the sizes and opened or unopened states of the exhaust and inhalational holes by employing the precision replica of the actual real relic for examining the internal structure of the lid and for studying the sizes and locations of the smoke holes. The results indicate that depending on the sizes of the exhaust and inhalational holes, the lower-line air intake holes can cause incomplete combustion in the incense burner. Depending on the opened or unopened states of the exhaust and inhalational holes, the phoenix air exhaust holes and upper-line air exhaust holes play a primary role in releasing the smoke, whereas the lower-line air intake holes play a primary role in smoke inhalation.

Computational Optimization for RC Columns in Tall Buildings (초고층 철근콘크리트 기둥의 전산최적설계 프로세스)

  • Lee, Yunjae;Kim, Chee-Kyeong;Choi, Hyun-Chul
    • Journal of the Korea Concrete Institute
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    • v.26 no.3
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    • pp.401-409
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    • 2014
  • This research develops tools and strategies for optimizing RC column sections applied in tall buildings. Optimization parameters are concrete strength and section shape, the objective function for which is subject to several predefined constraints drawn from the original structural design. For this purpose, we developed new components for StrAuto, a parametric modeling and optimization tool for building structure. The components receive from external analysis solvers member strengths calculated from the original design model, and output optimized column sections satisfying the minimum cost. Using these components, optimized sections are firstly obtained for each predefined concrete strength applied to the whole floors in the project building. The obtained results for each concrete strength are comparatively examined to determine the fittest sections which will also result in the fittest vertical zoning for concrete strength. The main optimization scenario for this is to search for the vertical levels where the identical optimized sections coincide for the two different concrete strengths in concern, and select those levels for the boundaries where a concrete strength will be changed to another. The optimization process provided in this research is a product of an intensive development designed for a specific member in a specific project. Thus, the algorithm suggested takes on a microscopic and mathematical approach. However, the technique has a lot of potential that it can further be extensively developed and applied for future projects.

Analysis of EMP Shielding Effectiveness and Flow of Fluid with Multi-Layered Waveguide-Below-Cutoff Array (다층 구조를 이용한 도파관 배열의 EMP 차폐성능과 유동 분석)

  • Kim, Sangin;Kim, Yuna;Pang, Seung-Ki;Kim, Suk-Bong;Yook, Jong-Gwan
    • The Journal of Korean Institute of Electromagnetic Engineering and Science
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    • v.27 no.8
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    • pp.735-741
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    • 2016
  • Increasing the total length of waveguide-below-cutoff array(WBCA) as it is used to the duct in order to enhance shielding effectiveness, the design could cause higher cost, higher levels of difficulties in construction and the interruption a flow velocity. The multi-layered WBCA can compensate for this problem, which can be designed by crossing each waveguide layer. By conducting simulations from 2-layer to 8-layer structure, it can be observed that the shielding effectiveness increases from 52 dB to 75 dB. Comparing with the original WBCA in a shape of mono layer rectangular, our proposed waveguide becomes similar with the original value as the number of crossing layer increases. In addition, the analysis with the flow of fluid in the duct installed multi-layered WBCA are required. We demonstrate this analysis by doing the flow of fluid simulation, and concluded that the multi-layered WBCA has loss of flow of fluid less than unit rectangular WBCA.

Research Methods on Scalp and Hair Management through the Pass of Time (시대적 흐름에 따른 두피와 모발관리에 대한 연구방법)

  • Kim Myung-Joo;Baek Seung-Hwa
    • Journal of Society of Preventive Korean Medicine
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    • v.7 no.1
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    • pp.123-132
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    • 2003
  • It is considered to be important to create aesthetically beautiful style through the change of external shape, however for the hair stylists, whose beauty expression is through hair, the role of hair doctor is becoming even more important with focus to improve the hair healthiness. Hair clinic is management of hair and scalp. It is the management process of preventing damages, while improving and cultivating healthy and shiny hair. The current concept in hair management is moving from simple hair styling to emphasis at hair management. As far as hair management is concerned, it usually includes treatment tools such as shampoo, conditioner, hair treatment and scalp scaling system, which is used for diagnosis of hair condition in order to treat the scalp. As the interest of hair healthiness becoming more wide spread, so does the breadth of clinic menu. The wide choice is to fulfill the profound desire of people, whose demands are simply to have variety in their choice. This is resulting in faucets of new value-added and differentiated products. The values that make-up the hair styles consist of mainly design (trend, preference), function(styling, management convenience) and clinic(hair quality improvement, damage repair). Shampoo and conditioner have gone beyond their original function of cleansing to providing combinational functions of treatment, to care and remedy, and advanced massage effectiveness. These are, to name a few that seem to go beyond their original function to satisfy the mental healthiness in people, the King Kong shampoo of shampooings in forward-backward manner, 5-minute shampoo massage that applies sports and relaxation massage, scalp acupunctural message and aural(ear) massage. More and more people are complaining about the damaged hair and hair loss problems due to perms, dyeing and bleaching of hair, in addition to natural scalp and hair damaging factors. Such complaints have stimulated many beauty products and various hair treatment systems being introduced with focus to provide nutrition and prevent damages to scalp and hair. As the living standards improve and the desire of people is to pursue differentiated lives, their demand also increases in hair styling products to fulfill the needs of healthy and aesthetical aspects of their lives.

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Coated Tongue Region Extraction using the Fluorescence Response of the Tongue Coating by Ultraviolet Light Source (설태의 자외선 형광 반응을 이용한 설태 영역 추출)

  • Choi, Chang-Yur;Lee, Woo-Beom;Hong, You-Sik;Nam, Dong-Hyun;Lee, Sang-Suk
    • The Journal of the Institute of Internet, Broadcasting and Communication
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    • v.12 no.4
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    • pp.181-188
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    • 2012
  • An effective extraction method for extracting a coated tongue is proposed in this paper, which is used as the diagnostic criteria in the tongue diagnosis. Proposed method uses the fluorescence response characteristics of the coated tongue that is occurred by using the ultraviolet light. Specially, this method can solved the previous problems including the issue in the limits of the diagnosis environment and in the objectivity of the diagnosis results. In our method, original tongue image is acquired by using the ultraviolet light, and binarization is performed by thresholding a valley-points in the histogram that corresponds to the color difference of tongue body and tongue coating. Final view image is presented to the oriental doctor, after applying the canny-edge algorithm to the binary image, and edge image is added to the original image. In order to evaluate the performance of the our proposed method, after building a various tongue image, we compared the true region of coated tongue by the oriental doctor's hand with the extracted region by the our method. As a result, the proposed method showed the average 87.87% extraction ratio. The shape of the extracted coated tongue region showed also significantly higher similarity.

A study on Crack Healing of Various Glassy Polymers (part I) -theoretical modeling- (유리질 중합체의 균열 Healing에 관한 연구 (제1보) -이론 모델링-)

  • Lee, Ouk-Sub
    • Journal of the Korean Society for Precision Engineering
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    • v.3 no.1
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    • pp.40-49
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    • 1986
  • Crack, craze and void are common defects which may be found in the bulk of polymeric materials such as either themoplastics or thermosets. The healing phenomena, autohesion, of these defects are known to be a intrinsic material property of various polymeric materials. However, only a few experimental and theoretical investigations on crack, void and craze healing phenomena for various polymeric materials have been reported up to date [1, 2, 3]. This may be partly due to the complications of healing processes and lacking of appropriate theoretical developments. Recently, some investigators have been urged to study the healing phenomena of various polymenic materials since the significance of the use of polymer based alloys or composites has been raised in terms of specific strength and energy saving. In the earlier published reports [1, 2, 3, 4], the crack and void healing velocity, healing toughness and some other healing mechanical and physical properties were measured experimentally and compared with predicted values by utilizing a simple model such as the reptation model under some resonable assumptions. It seems, however, that the general acceptance of the proposed modeling analyses is yet open question. The crack healing processes seem to be complicate and highly dependent on the state of virgin material in terms of mechanical and physical properties. Furthermore, it is also strongly dependent on the histories of crack, craze and void development including fracture suface morphology, the shape of void and the degree of disentanglement of fibril in the craze. The rate of crack healing may be a function of environmental factors such as healing temperature, time and pressure which gives different contact configurations between two separated surfaces. It seems to be reasonable to assume that the crack healing processes may be divided in several distinguished steps like stress relaxation with molecular chain arrangement, surface contact (wetting), inter- diffusion process and com;oete healing (to obtain the original strength). In this context, it is likely that we no longer have to accept the limitation of cumulative damage theories and fatigue life if it is probable to remove the defects such as crack, craze and void and to restore the original strength of polymers or polymer based compowites by suitable choice of healing histories and methods. In this paper, we wish to present a very simple and intuitive theoretical model for the prediction of healed fracture toughness of cracked or defective polymeric components. The central idea of this investigation, thus, may be the modeling of behavior of chain molecules under healing conditions including the effects of chain scission on the healing processes. The validity of this proposed model will be studied by making comparisons between theoretically predicted values and experimentally determined results in near future and will be reported elsewhere.

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A study in pigment analysis and original mounting of the decorative painting at court (궁중 장식화의 채색 분석과 장황 고찰)

  • Ahn, Ji Yoon;Kim, Soo Yeon;Cheon, Ju Hyun
    • Journal of Conservation Science
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    • v.30 no.1
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    • pp.39-53
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    • 2014
  • The decorative painting at court was practical and functional role by decorated the inside and outside of palace. Especially, the type of the Painting of sun, moon and five peaks and Heavenly peach were the one of representative decorative paintings, produced for authority of king and longevity wish. However, there are not clarify verification of production period and installation place in the Painting of sun, moon and five peaks and Heavenly peach, that made before $19^{th}$ century, in present. Therefore, this study has a meaning on find production period, installation place and techniques of paint through conservation scientific research of the Painting of sun, moon and five peaks and Heavenly peach that introduced the first time in National Museum of Korea. Double side paintings in two-panel folding screen style and tortoise shell shape of window is the first time research in the decorative painting at court. This study also explain that they were installed in Hamin Jeong from ChanggyeongGungyeonggeon Dogam Uigwe(1834) through research of the original measurement, contrast of palace in present and Uigwe record. It will be contributed to a study of the Painting of sun, moon and five peaks and Heavenly peach in the early $19^{th}$ century.

A Study on the Analysis of Outside Mural Paintings treated in Maitreya Hall of Geumsan-sa Buddhist Temple, Korea (금산사미륵전 외벽화 보존처리된 벽체의 분석 연구)

  • Han, Kyeong-Soon;Lee, Sang-Jin;Lee, Haw-Soo
    • Journal of Conservation Science
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    • v.26 no.4
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    • pp.445-458
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    • 2010
  • The deterioration and structural damage such as exfoliation, cracks, and separation of painted layer on the wall paintings of Maitreya Hall in Geumsan-sa temple have been accelerated since it was re-positioned to the original place after the dismantling from the building in 1993. The examination of which result and analysis described in this study, is a preliminary survey for establishing conservation plan of the wall paintings. It aimed at the understanding of the physical and chemical characteristics of the materials applied in the 1993 conservation. The research focused on the south walls which displayed the worst condition compared to other walls. Samples for the examination for the understanding of micro-structure, chemical composition, cristalisation, and particle distribution, were collected for finishing, middle, and consolidated layers of the walls between pillars and the ones between brackets. Those samples were collected from separated fragments of the walls. The sample analysis displayed that: 1. the 1993 conservation used the similar type of weathered soil as the original for the finishing layer, and such soil and sand for the middle layer; 2. those walls are composed of a group of mineral particles which are relatively equal in size and shape and in their distribution; 3. the mineral particles were cohered forming solid aggregate due to the application of acrylic resin for the reinforcement on the wall. The main composition of crystalisation on the first and the second reinforcement layers of the back walls were lime plaster ($CaSO_4{\cdot}2H_2O$). The overall examination confirmed that the priority of the future conservation treatment should be given to the removal of the first and the second layers of reinforcement and the treatment on the back walls which were partially consolidated.

Surface Properties of Color Concrete Using Acid Stained Agent (표면 착색용 산화제를 사용한 컬러 콘크리트의 표면 특성)

  • Kim, Jin-Man;Jeong, Ji-Yong;Park, Hyo-Jin
    • Journal of the Korea Concrete Institute
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    • v.23 no.3
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    • pp.265-272
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    • 2011
  • Even though concrete is the most important material for building structures, its intrinsic gray color degrades urban esthetics. In order to improve this problem, coloring methods of mixing pigment in concrete batch and painting the surface of concrete surface have been tried. However, applications of the coloring methods in construction field are difficult due to high cost and low durability. Recently, acid stain agent is emerging as a new coloring method for concrete. It is able to apply a remarkably thin colored layer on a concrete surface from chemical reaction between acid and alkaline solutions. This study has examined the changes and variations of the surface layer of mortar specimen from chemical reaction of acid stained agents. The colors were changed into natural irregular stains according to aging. After the staining, no shape change was found from visible inspections. Microstructure of the colored surface applied with acid stained agent was much rougher than that of original mortar. When the colored layer was compared to original surface, crystals of hydrate such as $Ca(OH)_2$ and C-S-H gel were observed. Surface hardness was same or slightly higher in the colored layer. The value of pH was reduced by approximately 10%, weight contents of elements such as Ca, Si, and Al were low. In the chemical composition of the colored layer, the non-cement based elements of Mn, Cr, and Cu increased. Also, Fe and alkali elements of K and Na increased.