• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.275-284
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• 2014

This study aims to suggest the patternmaking method of men's slim-fit four-panel jacket sloper in their 30's. The researcher collected four kinds of existing slopers and carried out appearance and movement evaluations twice. Then the researcher's sloper was developed by modifying and supplementing the existing sloper with high scores in the evaluations. The results are as follows: First, when comparing the existing slopers, ease on the chest varied from 13 cm to 17.8 cm. Actual measurements or formula method were used for the armhole depth, waist line, and hip line. It was one-third of armhole length for the sleeve cap height in most existing slopers. Second, the researcher's sloper had excellent scores in the appearance and movement evaluations (front neck depth, ease on the chest, front dropped length, ease on the sleeve cap, and the position that separate the two piece sleeves on the back). Third, the suggested sloper, has 13~14 cm for ease in the chest circumference and 2.5 cm for front dropped length. It sets to chest/4+2 cm for armhole depth, height/4+1 cm for waist line placement, and height/8 for hip length. The sleeve cap height is one-third of armhole length. These results will be useful when the industrial technical designers develop various jacket patterns.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.886-896
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• 2009

Acjurumpo is one of the most representatives daily outfit of Joseon Dynasty is a clothes which has a characteristic of having creases under the armhole and it has a lot of chance to use on modern clothes design. This study wants to provide a information on traditional clothes to the public and modernize traditional clothes by designing modern women clothes by adapting Acjurumpo, one of Joseon Dynasty's men' daily outfit which is not very well-known to publics as a link of traditional clothes modernization. Acjurumpo's characteristic is usually having a knife-shape collar and having two sup and one sup, but outside sup of having two sup was more common. There were tongsu, duri, as a example of shape of sleeve. For Mu the combinations were different from Acjurum starting with a shape of trapezoid, triangle to big Mu on a body of side line. For Gorum there were two pairs of long and short Gorum, two pairs of short Gorum or one pair of short or long Gorum. Slit of po was on both side or back. Acjurumpo which was adapted on modern clothes, it was usually used on Hanbok companies that used traditional shape or similar shape to design children' clothes. This study designed three summer one-piece and two winter jacket for women clothes adapting Acjurumpo. And it was designed by using modern material adapting Acjurumpo's characteristics, changing knife-shape collar, Acjurum, mu and Gorum. This study expects for popularization of many traditional clothes developed by modern design in future.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.39-51
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate the fit of ready-to-wear garment for girls at the age of puberty and to find out the respective differences by age and locality. For this study, a questionnaire survey was conducted to 547 girls in Seoul and Gyeonggi-do. As a whole. the largest parts of complaints for unfitness were height, waist circumference and, next hip circumference. According to the result of comparing the fit of ready-to-wear garment by items, the fit of clothing for girls at the age of puberty gets relatively worse with the increase of age in all items except one-piece. As for the fit by parts of ready-to-wear garment, significant differences were observed according to age in the length of sleeve, crotch and the length of upper garments. That is, girls at the age of 10${\sim}$11 were found to think that their clothes are long in the three measures.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.5 s.164
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• pp.742-752
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is the image of clothing according to the change of the dots' size was analyzed and its influence on the formation of the image of polka dots clothing was investigated. White waterdrop patterns were designed on the 12 kinds of black texture using Photoshop and CAD program in regular arrangement of diamond figure, composed of white waterdrop(0.5cm, 1.0cm, 1.5cm and 2cm in diameter) and interval(diameter : interval-1 : 1, 1 : 2, 1 : 4). Applying above specification, the photograph stimulus of 12 kinds of X-line one-piece dress with wide square neckline and without sleeve or detailed ornament was presented on a screen in the same size as when putting it on. The image of polka dots clothes was investigated by questionnaire survey. The object of the study was 320 females aged between 16 and 29. Factor analysis, one-way ANOVA, $Scheff\acute{e}$ verification and two-way ANOVA using SPSS 10.0 were carried out for data analysis. Followings are the results: 1) The image of polka dots clothing consists of 4 factors as aesthetics, brevity, dynamism and lightweight. 2) The size of the dot has a great influence on the formation of the image of polka dots clothing. 3) The evaluations of the image of polka dots clothing were different depending on the age and physical image, the personal characteristics of the object of investigation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.278-285
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is the image of clothing according to the change of the dots' interval was analyzed and its influence on the formation of the image of polka dots clothing was investigated. White waterdrop patterns were designed on the 12 kinds of black texture using Photoshop and CAD program in regular arrangement of diamond figure, composed of white waterdrop(0.5 cm, 1.0 cm, 1.5 cm and 2 cm in diameter) and interval(diameter : interval - 1 : 1, 1 : 2, 1 : 4). Applying above specification, the photograph stimulus of 12 kinds of X-line one-piece dress with wide square neckline and without sleeve or detailed ornament was presented on a screen in the same size as when putting it on. The image of polka dots clothes was investigated by questionnaire survey. The object of the study was 320 females aged between 16 and 29. Factor analysis, one-way ANOVA, Scheff$\acute{e}$ verication and two-way ANOVA using SPSS 10.0 were carried out for data analysis. The research finding are as follows. First, the image of polka dots clothing consists of 4 factors as aesthetics, brevity, dynamism and lightweight. Secondly, the interval of the dot has a great influence on the formation of the image of polka dots clothing. Lastly, the evaluations of the image of polka dots clothing were different depending on the age and physical image, the personal characteristics of the object of investigation.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.55-79
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• 2000

This study is the design research for the practical use of Casual Hanbok. The conclusion of basic research for Casual Hanbok design reads as follows. Today's college women are fairly positive to the practical use of Casual Hanbok. Especially, they are strongly interested in the new design and have the active intention to wear it on actually. The concrete design of every parts of Casual Hanbok which is wanted by college women is as follows. Firstly, college women like well matched two-piece dress style in colors. And they want to decide the coloration independently than to follow the traditional coloration passively. Secondly, according to the design of jacket, sometimes they like the presence of a collar, a collar strip, a gore etc. and at other times they like absence of them. Thirdly, the side line of jacket they like and the seam line of sleeve they like is smoothly curved one and the adjusting means they like is a fancy button. Fourthly, the length of jacket they like reaches to their waist and the width of an armhole they like must be convenient for moving of arm. Fifthly, one out of two college women likes mixed spinning fabrics as material for jacket, skirt, pants. In the other hand, one out of five college women likes cotton. Sixthly, the skirt style they like is A ­line one having from two to four gathers on the waist and the length of skirt they like reaches to their ankle or calf of the leg. Seventhly, the pants style they like is the western style but the hem line of pants is the korean traditional pants style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.10
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• pp.1-9
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• 2009

One piece of Jeogori and several books of the Goryeo dynasty were found inside of the wooden Buddhist Goddess of Mercy Statue of the Bogwang temple and they were designated as national treasure of Korea, No. 1571. The jeogori was the Jeogsam as the kind of underwear and conjectured as for women by considering its size. The collar of the jeogori was 3cm-wide square-shaped collar without gussit and the sleeve was close to straight line. Also the jeogori was designed without breast ties and could be adjusted by knot button. The fabrics for the jeogori showed similar pattern as complex silk gauze in 1302. It has not been reported yet that the complex silk gauze was used for the Jeogsam from Goryeo Dynasty to Joseon Dynasty. Comparing the Jeogori of the Bogwang temple to those of Goryeo Dynasty, it can be appropriately estimated as the remains of the Goryeo Dynasty since its shape and materials are very similar to those found in the Jeogori's of the Goryeo Dynasty and it was found between the books of the Goryeo Dynasty inside of the knee part of the wooden Buddhist Goddess of Mercy Statue of the Bogwang temple. Although only one piece of Jeogori was found, it's importance in cultural value or in the study of the fabric history cannot be underestimated considering the fact that the Jeogories of the Goryeo Dynasty are scarce, and that the used fabric was not commonly used complex silk gauze, and especially that this Jeogori is the only existing Jeogsam made of complex silk gauze.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.899-914
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• 2000

The purpose of the study was to provide the actual data for designing adaptive dresses for the disabled elderly. In order to get the data, we had 3 parts of the procedure as follows ; 1. The survey of 205 nursing-care providers who take care of the disabled elderly in 1999. 2. Measuring 10 measurements of 80 disabled men and women each, 160 samples. 3. On the basis of data above, developing the adaptive dresses and doing the wearing-tests of those. The results are as follows ; 1. The most popular style for the disabled elderly in nursing facilities was non-collar pajama's. Specially, pajama style was needed for the disabled elderly being sick in bed, one-piece style was required for the disabled eldery with dementia. And the most desirable fabric function was a physiological comfortability. The most proper price required was about 20,000 won. 2. As Korean apparel industry use K.S. sizing system, we decided to use the same measurement to categorize the samples, bust and height. And according to the frequency in the size chart, we suggested the production size for the disabled eldery men and women. 3. After developing these adaptive dresses, the results of wearing-tests showed two kinds of problems. One was that of the sleeve length ; Actually, for the disabled elderly, the longer than the production size is the better for them. The other problem was revealed from subsidiay materials, fasteners.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.1
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• pp.101-117
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• 1977

This thesis is a study of the Simui(深衣) system which was a dress regulation peculiar to old China with skirt and coat. The origin of Simui is a very long time, that is, before Ju dynasty in China. Its wearing range had a large circle irrespective of rank and good or bad luck. This was a ordinary dress to the Emperor or the lords, a below court attire or a below sacrificial rites attire to the illustrious officials, and good luck dress to the common people. But this was a funeral rites attire or coming-of-age ceremony attire in domestic behaviour. In the times of Song dynasty, lots of confucian scholars had put on this simui because of Juhi's recommendation for domestic behaviour. This Simui had been put on through all the times of China and was the original text of all the dress. Especially the court attire and silkworm working dress of Empress, and the court attire and underwear court attire of Emperor is also made out of this Simui, therefore this is a origin of the ceremonial dress which formed into long coat. In Korea it is said that this Simui was brought in prior to the middle of Goryeo dynasty. But we can't tell the correct transmitted age. According to the following records in Goryeo History, "King had put on the Simui as a sacrificial rite attire in the times of Yejong". It is sure that this Simui was brought in prior to the times of Yejong. In fact, lots of confucian scholars had put on the Simui since the introduction of confucianism in the end of Goryeo dynasty and after that time this was taken by many confucian scholars through Yi dynasty. Korean Simui system was complied with Chinese system through confucian domestic behaviour, This was respected for court dress of confucian scholars, as it were, Chumri, (an ordinary dress of scholars), Nansam (a uniform of upper student), and Hakchangui (a uniform of confucian student). There are many deta about Simui system in the book of Yeki, chapter Okcho and Simui, and other many canfucian books. But we didn't demonstrate the theory about it till now. Especially there are diversifies of opinions about the phrase of "Sok Im Ku Byun" in Yeki. Simui was cut in separate and then was stitched together in one piece. Generally its shape had round sleeve and angled lapel, its length reaches to the anklebone. And it has a line around the lapel, the sleeve band, and the edge of skirt. It is called Simui because the body can be wrapped deeply in broad width and large sleeve. The Simui was made of white fine linen and was cut by the natural size of body. Every part of Simui had a profound meaning; the round sleeve in compliance with regulation can keep a courtesy when a walker moves his hands and the angled lapel like a carpenter's square in compliance with square keeps them front loosing their Justice and a string of the back also keeps them loosing from their righteousness and the flat lower part of Simui makes their heart and mind calm. This Simui was usually attendant on a head cover and belt made cloth, and black shoes. This thesis was made a study of documents and portrait from Yi dynasty, for the actual object was not obtained.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.843-859
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to find the differences among the clothing brands through examination of present situation about uniform design in domestic coffee houses and provide the basic materials in developing uniform designs to reflect the brand identity. For research contents and method, the overall circumstances were examined about the domestic coffee houses and their uniforms at large via literature review. Then, characteristics on their 10 uniform designs were reviewed according to item, color, pattern and accessary. The following are results. First, cardigan, cap, and necktie according to the individual brand are added with basis of shirt and apron in composition of coffeehouse's uniform. Second, in cardigan, those colors including black, navy and brown are used, reminding of the coffee. Brand logo or symbol is also presented on it, which addresses the brand image. Third, the kind of shirt consists mainly with long or short shirt blouse and long sleeve or short sleeve pique shirt. Job title or gender differentiates the shape and color. Fourth, one-piece type is commonly applied for the apron. At the same time, a short skirt is put on as well. An image expression is often found by the unique brand color also, but mostly, some dark tones like brown or black are largely used. Fifth, in cap, various kinds are worn including the cap as in the case of baseball, fedora, beret, and hunting cap. In color, black or brown color same to that of apron is common, which fails to show differentiation. Thus, consideration of color remix with application of brand symbol is thought to be an alternative to this.