• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.6 s.96
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• pp.38-50
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• 2005

A chronological classification of Sangbok(상복) and Sibok(시복) for officers in Joseon Dynasty is proposed in this paper. The classification results in four distinct periods according to the usage of Sangbok and Sibok as well as their colers and naming: 1) the mixed usage period, 2) the usage-differentiation period, 3) the name-differentiation period, and 4) name-reversal period. During the mixed usage period which lasted until the early 15th century, Sangbok and Sibok were used with no distinction. In the usage-differentiation period, the King Sejong first made a regulation on the use of colors of Dal-lyung according to the occasion and black colored uniforms were used only for daily cabinet meetings. In the 16th century, the names of Sangbok and Sibok began to be used distinctively: Sangbok for formal clothing in black color and Sibok for ordinary clothing in pink color This period is defined as the name-differentiation period in this paper. In the name-reversal period f·hick begun around the 17th century, the usages as well as the colors of Sangbok and Sibok are totally reversed because of some confusions of the understanding on the previous government publications. However, the distinction of formal clothing and ordinary clothing remained.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.5
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• pp.1-18
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• 2009

Due to the severe damages, it is very difficult to fathom out the original shape of the armor of Seong-ryong Ryu(1542-1607) right now. Ryu was a distinguished scholar official of his period, and his remaining armor has been designated as a National Treasure No. 460. This is a study of the types of the used scales, their positions used, the methods of their connections, and their hemmings, to figure out the original process of producing the armor. Based upon the research results, the remaining pieces of the armor are restored according to the discovered contemporary procedure of the armor. Then hypotheses are proposed for the three kinds of armor made up of long pieces, and three kinds of the armor of short pieces, and problems of the proposed hypotheses are considered for further studies. Hopefully this kind of approach shall serve as a ground stone for the better restorations of the scale armors of Joseon period in the future.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.686-704
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• 2015

As mass media has come to intervene with politics in a more proactive way during modern times, the image of a politician has evolved into a more relevant factor compared with political content. This phenomenon is known as "image politics", and such externalized images as non-verbal cues have grown in importance, along with the numbers of female politicians. Thus image strategy has been instituted as a major research theme in the field of political marketing, especially for female politicians. In accordance with this theme, this study aims to approach fashion as part of image strategy of female politicians, in order to reemphasize political fashion as a valuable resource. The methodologies employed in this study are based on both the literature and positive research. Female politicians have long utilized fashion styles that are, or are assumed to be, the most appealing to their target base of support in a predominantly male-centered sector. In this sense, appropriate choices in the usage of apparel items, colors, hair styles, accessories, and others according to each situation and respective hierarchies are of the utmost importance. When attending official ceremonies and other related meetings, the strategic superiority afforded to a scientific approach based on thorough fashion research, compared with personal taste is imperative. The significance of this study lies within the recognition of the importance of fashion image, and how to utilize fashion for image strategy in practice, through the investigative synthesis and review of major preceding research.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.85-106
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• 2011

This study analyzes excavated Danryeong of the same period to understand differences between female and male Danryeong, and to identify characteristics of female Danryeong, including their purpose, then-name and women's wearing of them. The subject female Danryeong were estimated to be worn in the late 15th century and the early 17th century, and newly-discovered female Danryeong, along with those examined in the Song Mi-kyeong's study, were studied. This study found that female Danryeong have distinctive characteristics from male's in many aspects such as ease of a garment, sleeve design, Hansam (a layered sleeve to cover hands), shape of Moos (side pleats), Goreum (a coat string), Dae (a belt). From this finding, the purpose of female Danryeong can be assumed: a ceremonial robe, which is different from that of mem's official robe. Female Danryeong began to disappear as Wonsam, a ceremonial topcoat, emerged. From the transitional Danryeong and excavated Wonsam, female Danryeong were estimated to be used as ceremonial robes in the mid Joseon period when Wonsam had yet to be created; and they were estimated to be called "Dansam" or "Wonsam."

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.3 s.93
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• pp.1-18
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• 2005

In this study, the transition characteristics of purple series color names appearing in the clothing of the Joseon Dynasty were examined, and the associational meaning of each name were investigated through various methods. The results are as follows; First, Such characteristics as continuity, differentiation, substitution could be observed through the investigation of color names of purple-series appeared on the clothing in the Joseon Dynasty period. Secondly, the associational meaning could be subdivided into; social position symbolic meanings, usage meanings, economic meanings, and thought meanings. The social position symbolic meanings could be observed mainly in the single names which has been used since the ancient times, usage meanings could be observed in a wide variety according to the individual color names. The economic meanings could be observed by comparing the value of colored cloths and colored threads. The thought meanings were mainly related with the Confucianism. Thirdly, the associational semantic structure were established on the basis of associational meanings of purple-series color names. Individual color name on the social position symbolic semantic structure symbolizes [government official] and [servant]. Through usage semantic structure individual color names could be understood structurally according to the social position, sex distinction, wearing situation, items of clothing, and structure of clothing. Individual names on the economic semantic structure were segmented by the semantic components of the values in [high], [medium], [low] prices, kinds and quantity of dyes. The thought semantic structure could be subdivided [Confucianism] and [The Thought of Taeil] in its semantic structure.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.26
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• pp.123-143
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• 1995

Clothing as one of elements of culture has been interwoven with cultural diffusion, and accompanied the most visible change. In this paper, it was focused that the process and the characteristics of western clothing adop-tion of Korea from 1876 to 1945 corelating with cultural diffusion theory. They were analyzed through the change of clothing reformation system by government, school uniform, and social phenomenon. The finding of this paper were as followings; 1. The process of western clothing adoption was forcibly demanded by Japan, therefore influenced by Japan. 2. The clothing reformation which was forced to accept western style was confronted by complex of cultural, psychological and economical resistance. 3. The fashion leaders of this period were Korean students studying abroad, diplomatic officials, members of the armed forces, government officials, students of western educational systemed school, and lady of evangelist. 4. Man adopted western clothing earlier than woman. 5. Western clothing adoption was took precedence in case of formal wear, diplomatic official's attire, military uniform, and school uniform. 6. In this process, we can find 'transculturation' by Malinowski and 'reinter-pretation' by Herskovits. 7. This process was a kind of 'reorientaion'. 8. The change of clothing which was affected by the tradition, for example, robe for the ancestral rites was evolutionary than others. 9. Clothing elements based on mental or internal characteristics like which clothing was hardly changed by compulsion or extortion. 10. The external trends of clothing change during this period were simplicity, utility, and decrease of status symbols.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.595-604
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• 2014

Tiffany & Co. had been recognized so highly in Korea even before its official advance to the country in 1991 that a successful jewelry company was called 'Korean Tiffany'. The purpose of this study was to explain how American brand Tiffany had been spread and recognized among Korean people by analyzing related articles and advertisements during the period from the Liberation to the 1989. The research method used in this study was the articles of newspapers and relevant literature. This is the result that, with the run of movie 'Breakfast at Tiffany's in Korea in 1962, the trade name and trademark of Tiffany were used illegally not only by jewelry traders but also by other businesses. Other luxury jewelry brands in the same period could not enjoy indirect advertising and spillover effects as good as Tiffany. As a result, a successful jewelry company was called 'Korean Tiffany' in 1989, and the expression is still valid in the country.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.7
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• pp.115-126
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• 1983

Myun Bok originated in China was introduced into Korea in ancient times. Some evidences show that it had settlled down as our own official robe already under Koryo Dynasty. And Koryo made her own regulations on Myun Bok. Kook Cho O Rye Eui(國朝五禮儀) of Choson Dynasty has comparatively detailed explanations on the way of cutting and shapes and materials. And the regulations are modeled after those of Ming China. But it has been impossible to know whether the regulations of Kook Cho O Rye Eui were strictly kept or not, because we have not enough remains through which to see it. And then we got very useful materials, Eui kue(儀軌), which are well known but have not been used in studying the history of costumes. Every Kook Chang Do Gam Eui Gue(國葬都監儀軌) have the provision of the so-called Pok Wan(服玩) set which includes the imitations or the full set of Myun Bok. And the provisions show us the illustrations colored in detail which help us understand the real shapes and the transformations of Myun Bok. After surveying the Pok wan provisions, author arrived at conclusions as follow; 1) Myun Boks are not always made in the same shape and colors. 2) The Provisions of Kook Cho O Rye Eui were not always kept strictly due to the lack of detailed directions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.5
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• pp.1-18
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• 2010

The Aesthetics of Kwanbok and Hyungbae and their Modern Applications Starting from practical purpose, kwanbok worn by government officers were developed in original and unique fashion over long time. In particular, as hyungbae (embroidered patches for kwanbok) that had been used for kwanbok has remained in existence even today, providing inspiration for a variety of design, it is bringing attention to the aesthetic value and importance of kwanbok. Under the circumstances, this study has elicited aesthetics from kwanbok and hyungbae as follows: First, they imply the wish of long life and happiness as a symbol of favorable omen and distinguish one's status according to the shape, color, and pattern. Second, kwanbok and hyungbae reveal our ancestors' naturalistic perspective in art. Third, pleats, slits and shapes in robes reveal practical aesthetics in composition. Fourth, slits in kwanbok create the aesthetics of contrast and harmony of lining and outer cloth. Modern applications of kwanbok is of value as they represent traditions and maintain the original forms, showing the image of Korea in the 21st century. Such efforts mean that they do not only make more beautiful clothes, but also create overall philosophies in life, including personal values.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.4
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• pp.26-40
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• 2009

The custom of the flag sticked in a military cap involves the symbolic mark. That is, it makes the procession of an army clear and makes the convenience of activity possible. This custom was uniquely practiced at several countries. At Il dynasty($1258{\sim}1411$), Timurid dynasty($1369{\sim}1508$), Mughal dynasty($1526{\sim}1858$) was succeeded this custom by based on blood relationship for $13th{\sim}16th$ century on the diachronic viewpoint. And these countries have cultural correlation by regional paradigm, namely Islamic cultural area. Meanwhile, this custom of Ming dynasty and joseon dynasty appeared in $15th{\sim}17th$ century as official system. Expecially, one of joseon dynasty maintained for a short time than other countries because of jangpyo[章標] system which was more efficient than the sticked flag. On the synchronic viewpoint, this custom was the common and necessary status quo for the efficient expansion of territory and military management.