• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.4 no.3
• /
• pp.161-167
• /
• 1992

We consider the preparation of long finite amplitude nondispersive waves over a step bottom between two regions of finite different depths. Two dimensional motion is assumed. with the wave crests parallel to the step, and irrotational flow in the inviscid fluid is considered. To describe the transformation of finite amplitude waves we use the finite-amplitude shallow-water equations, the conditions of mass flow conservation and pressure continuity at the cut above the step in Riemann's variables. The equations define four families of curves-characteristics on which the values of the Riemann's invariants remain constant and a system of two nonlinear equations that relates the amplitudes of incident reflected and transmitted waves. The system obtained is difficult to analyze in common form. Thus we consider some special cases having practical usage for tsunami waves. The results obtained are compared with the long wave theory and significant nonlinear effects are found even for quite small amplitude waves.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Hazard Mitigation
• /
• v.7 no.3
• /
• pp.69-78
• /
• 2007

In this study, a time-dependent aspect of an embankment failure is considered to simulate a flood inundation map and calculate overtopping discharge induced by an embankment failure. A numerical model has been developed by solving the two dimensional nonlinear shallow water equations with a finite volume method on unstructured grids. To analyze a Riemann problem, the HLLC approximate Riemann solver and the Weighted Averaged Flux method are employed by using a TVD limiter and the source term treatment is also employed by using the operator splitting method. Firstly, the numerical model is applied to a dam break problem and a sloping seawall. Obtained numerical results show good agreements with experimental data. Secondly, the model is applied to a flow induced by an embankment failure by assuming that the width and elevation of embankment are varied with time-dependent functions. As a result of the comparison with each numerical overtopping discharge, established flood inundation discharges in the previous studies are overestimated than the result of the present numerical model.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.3 no.3
• /
• pp.176-183
• /
• 1991

In this paper. boundary element method is applied to the analysis of nonlinear free surface wave. A particular concern is given to the treatment of the open boundaries at the in-flow boundary and out-flow boundary, which uses the mass-flux and energy-flux considering the continuity of fluid. By assuming the fluid to be inviscid and incompressible and the flow to be irrotational. the problem is formulated mathematically as a two-dimentional nonlinear problem in terms of a velocity potential. The equation(Laplace equation) and the boundary conditions are transformed into two boundary integral equations. Due to the nonlinearity of the problem. the incremental method is used for the numerical analysis. Numerical results obtained by the present boundary element method are compared with those obtained by the finite element method and also with experimental values.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.19 no.5
• /
• pp.484-491
• /
• 2007

Numerical experiments using a numerical wave tank have been performed to verier the nonlinear interaction between monochromatic waves and a submerged horizontal plate. As a model for numerical wave tank, we used a higher-order Boundary Element Method(BEM) based on fully nonlinear potential flow theory and CADMAS-SURF for solving Navier Stokes equations and exact free surface conditions. Both nonlinear models are able to predict the higher harmonic generation in the shallow water region over a submerged horizontal plate. CADMAS-SURF, which involves the viscous effect, can evaluate the higher harmonic generation by flow separation and vortices at the each ends of plate. The comparison of reflection and transmission coefficients with experimental results(Patarapanich and Cheong, 1989) at different lengths and submergence depths of a horizontal plate are presented with a good agreement. It is found that the transfer of energy from the incident fundamental waves to higher harmonics becomes larger as the submergence depth ratio decreases and the length ratio increases.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.14 no.1
• /
• pp.1-7
• /
• 2002

In the past, safety assessment on the site of Ulchin Nuclear Power Plants against tsunamis was carried out with probable maximum earthquake magnitude and related tsunamigenic fault parameters. Recently, however, based on the seismic gap theory, some seismologists warned about earthquakes of larger magnitudes than had been expected. In this study, we revaluated tsunami risk with a finite difference model based on linear and nonlinear shallow water equations. Firstly, we simulated the\`83 tsunami and compared the calculated water surface profile with the observed wave heights. Secondly, we evaluated the rise and drop of sea water level at the site of Ulchin Nuclear Power Plant with fault parameters of the past '83, '93 tsunamis and some dangerous faults. Finally, we showed that the cooling water intake facility of Ulchin Nuclear Power Plants would be safely operated in disastrous tsunamis.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
• /
• v.7 no.1
• /
• pp.13-24
• /
• 1993

The dispersion in the oscillatory flow generated by gravitational waves above the spatially periodic repples is studied. The steady parts of equations describing the orbit of the passive particle in a two dimensional field are assumed to be simply trigonometric functions. From the view point of nonlinear dynamics, the motion of the particle is chaotic under externally time-periodic perturbations which come from the wave motion. Two cases considered here are; (i) shallow water, and (ii) deep water approximation.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.11 no.2
• /
• pp.95-106
• /
• 1999

A numerical model is represented to calculate the wave fields such as the reflected waves, the transmitted waves and the depth-averaged velocities over submerged breakwaters for the normally incident wave trains of nonlinear mono-chromatic wave and solitary wave. The finite amplitude shallow water equations with the effects of bottom friction are solved numerically in time domain using an explicit dissipative Lax-Wendroff finite difference method. The numerical model is verified by comparisons with the other numerical results and the measured data. It is found that the submerged breakwater may be more useful for protecting the energies of monochromatic waves rather than solitary waves. Finally, the armor stability on submerged breakwater is indirectly analyzed using the hydrodynamic characteristics of flow fields.

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
• /
• v.35 no.1
• /
• pp.1-14
• /
• 1998

A two-dimensional numerical model for tidal currents based on the depth averaged equation is developed. The mode1 employs a rectangular grid system for its simplicity in the application of complicate coastal shore lines. To raise computing efficiency, implicit approximate factorization scheme is implemented in solving governing equations. An upwind-differencing is used to discretize convective terms, which provides a numerical dissipation automatically and suppresses any oscillations caused by nonlinear instabilities. Some numerical tests are made against the analytic solutions of a linearized shallow water equation to validate the developed numerical scheme, and comparisons of the model prediction with the analytic solution are satisfactory. As a real application, the tidal currents are computed on the Inchon area where the tidal currents are important for the design of new canal which is under construction.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.10 no.4
• /
• pp.204-210
• /
• 1998

This paper presents the development of the probability density function applicable for wave heights (peak-to-trough excursions) in finite water depth including shallow water depth. The probability distribution applicable to wave heights of a non-Gaussian random process is derived based on the concept of the maximum entropy method. When wave heights are limited by breaking wave heights (or water depth) and only first and second moments of wave heights are given, the probability density function developed is closed form and expressed in terms of wave parameters such as $H_m$(mean wave height), $H_{rms}$(root-mean-square wave height), $H_b$(breaking wave height). When higher than third moment of wave heights are given, it is necessary to solve the system of nonlinear integral equations numerically using Newton-Raphson method to obtain the parameters of probability density function which is maximizing the entropy function. The probability density function thusly derived agrees very well with the histogram of wave heights in finite water depth obtained during storm. The probability density function of wave heights developed using maximum entropy method appears to be useful in estimating extreme values and statistical properties of wave heights for the design of coastal structures.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.24 no.4
• /
• pp.295-304
• /
• 2012

This study proposed a two-dimensional horizontal numerical model based on the nonlinear shallow water wave equations to simulate tsunami propagation and coastal inundation. We numerically investigated the possible impacts of tsunami caused by the triple interlocked Tokai, Tonankai and Nankai Earthquakes on the Jeju coastal areas, using the proposed model. The simultaneous Tokai, Tonankai and Nankai Earthquakes were created a virtual tsunami model of an M9.0 earthquake. In numerical analysis, a grid nesting method for the local grid refinement in shallow coastal regions was employed to sufficiently reproduce the shoaling effects. The numerical model was carefully validated through comparisons with the data collected during the tsunami events by 2011 East Japan Earthquake and 1983 central East Sea Earthquake (Nihonkai Chubu Earthquake). Tsunami propagation triggered by the combined Tokai, Tonanakai and Nankai, Earthquakes was simulated for 10 hours to sufficiently consider the effects of tsunami in the coastal areas of Jeju Island. The numerical results revealed that water level fluctuation in tsunami propagation is greatly influenced by water-depth change, refraction, diffraction and reflection. In addition, the maximum tsunami height numerically estimated in the coastal areas of Jeju Island was about 1.6 m at Sagye port.