• Journal of architectural history
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• v.13 no.1 s.37
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• pp.71-81
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• 2004

The $18^{th}$ century's Industrial Revolution brought about influx of commerce, industry, and agricultural population into the urban areas, entering the $19^{th}$ century. Quality of rural communities declined, and the exploding population in the cities gave rise to various problems. 'Mietskaserne' Blockhousing was constructed by the 'Hobrechtplan', but led to social problems such as poor living conditions, insufficient sunshine due to overcrowding, slums due to incomplete urban infrastructure, epidemics, and so on. Starting in the early $20^{th}$ century, Berlin has driven forward a remodeling plan under the motto of 'critical reconstruction (kritische Rekonstruktion)'. It is performed in the place, which represents the vicissitudinous history of Berlin with site plans coexisting past with presence, using modern vocabulary of architectural forms. Reconstructing a city is a process which not only raises the economic value of each building consisting a city, but also a redevelopment process that brings out cultural value of an era. When a new era emerges buildings get reconstructed or rebuilt, and thereby form the identity of a city by reflecting its society, culture, politics, economy, and history. Old German architecture were not destroyed or rebuilt recklessly just by the fact that they are functionally or aesthetically outdated. Each building is treated as precious cultural heritage reflecting the history. This is how Berlin is being transformed today.

• Asian review of World Histories
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.35-81
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• 2016

The objective of this essay is to propose a cultural history of cosmography and cartography from the thirteenth to the sixteenth centuries. It focuses on some of the processes that characterized these fields of knowledge, using mainly western European sources. First, it elucidates the meaning that the term cosmography held during the period under consideration, and the scientific status that this composite field of knowledge enjoyed, pointing to the main processes that structured cosmography between the thirteenth century and the sixteenth century. I then move on to expound the circulation of cosmographic knowledge among Portugal, Venice and Lisbon in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. This analysis will show how cartography and cosmography were produced at the interface of articulated commercial, diplomatic and scholarly networks; finally, the last part of the essay focuses on the specific and quite distinctive use of cosmography in fifteenth-century European culture: the representation of "geo-political" projects on the world through the reformulation of the very concepts of sea and maritime networks. This last topic will be developed through the study of Fra Mauro's mid-fifteenth-century visionary project about changing the world connectivity through the linking of several maritime and fluvial networks in the Indian Ocean, Central Asia, and the Mediterranean Sea basin, involving the circumnavigation of Africa. This unprecedented project was based on a variety of sources accumulated in the Mediterranean Sea basin as well as in Asia and in the Indian Ocean over the course of several centuries.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.15 no.9
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• pp.5835-5843
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• 2014

This study examined the Hanghae-Gamsa's (the local governor of Hanghae-Do) utilization of the governing institutions in Hanghae-Do during the Sulryeok (an inspection tour around the Gamsa's ruling area). For this purpose, the four Hanghae-Gamsa's official diaries were closely investigated, which were written from the 18th century to the early 19th century. The main results of this study are as follows: 1) the routes of Hanghae-Gamsa's Sulryeok and some sightseeing parts; 2) the arrival route of newly appointed Hwanghae-Gamsa and the site of Gyogwui (the change-over ritual ceremonies) between old and new Hwanghae-Gamsas; and 3) utilization of governing institutions in Hanghae-Do during the Sulryeok focusing on his duties and ritual ceremonies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.7
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• pp.111-123
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to investigate girlish fashion as a contemporary as well as Romanticism of the 21st century. The background of girlish fashion is regarded as a hot blast of restoration and a appearance of kidults, such characteristics of these factors, that is, the moderns's longing for the memory of old days and kidult's concerns for the dream of their childhood, have a direct influence on the Romanticism. So the plasticity of girlish fashion was analyzed as a results: 1) This plasticity named Recurrent Romanticism as 21st New Look, especially the plasticity represented in a princess style fashion. The princess style fashion of girlish fashion means not only a expression of the moderns's self-confidence but also nostalgia toward old days. 2) Sweet Romanticism developed into angel style fashion, which the style expressed the moderate cuteness with clothing construction and detail etc and the innocence with white color. 3) The plasticity of girlish fashion called a feast of color named Fantastic Romanticism. Fantastic Romanticism of girlish fashion means not only a expression of a lovely girlie's image but also hope toward 21st century. Throughout the study, Romanticism as a cultural code of 21st century was considered to reflected in the whole livelihood as well as contemporary fashion, especially, girlish fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.4
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• pp.126-145
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• 2010

The purpose of this research is to classify the design features of twentieth century women's tennis wear. The specific research questions are; how tennis has developed and what is the relationship between tennis wear and modern dress? What are the important developments in women's tennis wear design in the twentieth century? What are the characteristics exhibited in each decade in women's tennis dress? This paper conducted current research by considering the women's tennis wear as a background of dress simplification. Forty pictures showing tennis wear from international tennis games' catalogues and literatures were selected for this study. Researchers employed a qualitative research method providing a systematic review of the previous studies analyzed by content. The results show that sportswear has become an important trend in contemporary fashion. Tennis wear also had influence on modern dress. Current development is concentrated on functional new materials and sports marketing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.34-40
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• 2006

Fascism is a term that began to be used from the late 1930s, means an idea and a system that the strong power of the state intervenes or control people's life based on the argument that the existential value of individuals is found only in the total. Fascist looks, which resulted from World War I and II, had brought a new pattern in women's fashion inspired by men's military uniforms. Thus, the purpose of this study was to identify fascist fashion trends in the first half of the twentieth century and to infer various aesthetic values of fascism expressed in fascist fashion looks. The results of this study indicated that expressions of fascism reflected the current ideology of rebellion and appealed to the original national sentiment of the masses. Fascism occurred in response to the contradiction of capitalism and its general crisis had emerged as an ideology with the highest popularity symbolizing power and government during the first half of the twentieth century. It was expressed in military looks as self-centered nationalism and yearning for minorities. Second, fascist fashion looks were not only for political and sexual temptation with the image of power but also for the display of women's status and roles through the bold expression of sexual attractiveness. Finally, fascist fashion looks expressed medieval images praising the feudal age in imagination that contained heroism and at the same time achieved integration under strict social hierarchical order.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.29
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• pp.201-232
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• 2012

In the world history in the rein of totalitarianism cultural project of government had been activated, and consequently of it official culture had been organized. But at the same time on the other side of it people('narod'), who didn't have cultural means for active expression of own opinion on the reality, had expressed world-view and judgement informally in everyday language. In the literature of autocracy, subjected to censorship, had been expressed and fixed mythically idealized image of sovereign and his works. But in the folklore the image of ruler had been created by liberal fantasy of people. This article examined russian literature and folklore texts of 18 century, when russian people suffered from rapid and dramatic changes, caused by Peter I. Although russian literature of 18 century had gone over to the new literary regime, it still accepted political mechanism as dominant of age, and consequently in the literary texts of this century Peter I was represented as ideal person and great monarch. But various images in folklore texts show that people's opinion on ruler and his activities couldn't be controlled. In other worlds, diverse images of Peter I in folklore texts reflect clear and plain historical consciousness of people. This analysis reveals not only difference between mechanism of idealization of government and historical consciousness of people, but also meaning of cultural memory as indicator of historical reality.

• Journal of English Language & Literature
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• v.64 no.2
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• pp.187-201
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• 2018

Horatio Alger's Ragged Dick (1868) betrays the economic and social system of nineteenth-century America through a self-reformative bootblack's quest for respectability. Being considered a space of constant danger, nineteenth-century New York City serves as a game board, and both visitors and residents of the city are supposed to avoid dangers while moving across its space. Dick Hunter, the juvenile protagonist of the novel, illustrates a street-child who starts his game of life from the backline of the game board. Continuing his quest for respectability, not only must he abandon the bad habits that he acquired as a street-child, but he also must avoid thieves and swindlers just like a tourist or like a player of nineteenth-century American board games. As Dick's social rise goes parallel with his movement in the city space, his entrance to a bank brings him the access to other respectable places, and a series of entrance turns him into a legitimate subject in the official system of the American society. While he continues his game of life successfully with the help of gentlemen patrons, in reality it is almost impossible for a disadvantaged player to escape the backline of the society. Thus, Dick's success story presents Alger's fantasy about the ideal economic system in which materials and persons are endlessly circulated.

• SUVANNABHUMI
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.109-132
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• 2017

This article is about the emergence of Islamic modernism among Cham Muslim communities in Cambodia and Cochinchina during the early 20th century. Based on a combined critical reading of existing scholarship, historicized first-hand anthropological accounts, as well as archival sources from the National Archives of Cambodia and the Vietnam National Archives II, it argues accounts of modernists in these sources were either (1) cast through a French colonial reading of a Buddhist state lens and (2) cast through a Malay lens, based upon the Kaum Muda/Kaum Tua divide. First, it proceeds with a historical explanation of the emergence of Islam and the discourse used to describe Muslim communities in Vietnamese, French, and Cham language sources. Then, it turns the narrative toward an examination of the emergence of the "Kaum Muda" or "New Group" of reformist-minded modernist Muslims in early 20th century Cambodia. Delineating the networks of these intellectuals as they stretched across the border through Cochinchina, also highlights a pre-existing transnational element to the community, one that well predates current discussions of twenty-first-century transnationalism. Through a combination of the study of multiple language sources and historical methods, the article highlights the importance of polylingualism in the study of the history of Muslims in Southeast Asia.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.6 s.154
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• pp.880-891
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• 2006

This study is to be focused on the sportswear combining common wear with the design elements of activewear. The objectives of this study are four designers in compliance with the book of Ann Marie Fiore and Patricia Anne Kimle; Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren and Anna Sui and the times to be studied are limited to the early 21st Century from 2001 to 2005. Main results are as follow. This research divides sportswear into four groups; 'Function oriented style', 'Sensible style', 'Retro American sports style', and 'Street sports style'. Comparison of four designers' sportswear shows that Calvin Klein is function oriented, Donna Karan is function oriented and sensitivity driven, whereas Ralph Lauren focuses on retro American sports style along with function oriented characteristics. Anna Sui places emphasis on youth oriented street sports style. In terms of color, Calvin Klein and Donna Karan use White & Black and natural tone while Ralph Lauren uses pastel tone, and Anna Sui uses mostly vivid colors. In terms of material, Calvin Klein and Donna Karan use mostly elastic and synthetic materials whereas Ralph Lauren and Anna Sui use natural materials.