This article aimed at semiotically analyzing and encoding the characteristics of Pop. Artistic style of a dress in the 2000's, and understanding social and cultural meaning to characteristics revealed at modern style of a dress. As research methods, Pop. Art factors were adjusted to non-individuality, openness, eroticism, parody through precedent research comparing and considering Pop. art, and 61 photos were selected, and they were analyzed into signifier and signified. It's analysis results are as follows. Non-individualistic image revealed modern style of a dress was intensively indicated at the pattern aspect of Pop. Art style of a dress, and any remarkable characteristics were not shown at the form aspect. Non-individuality was actively and progressively expressed due to the effect of the 2000's trends to pursue of frank desire, artistic and sensual life. For open image revealed at modern style of a dress, the characteristics were intensively highlighted at the details and accessories of style of a dress, and at the details and accessories of style of a dress, and at textile and pattern aspect, and notable signifier did not turn up. Pop. Artistic eroticism in the 2000's could be seen to unconditionally expose, or commercialize sex, but fashionably and gorgeously re-interpret it, which was found that the expression to women was changed in a free and emotionally-oriented way by the influence of feminism, expansion of feministic thought and optimism on New-millenium. At parody, simple and humorous parody rather than deep intended or heavy mattered one was seen, which means the effect of the 21st culture pursuing pleasure, fun and humor appeared as an positive parody phenomenon. It is found that the Pop. Art style of a dress in the 2000s shows up as a feministic, bright, cheerful Pop. Art in that it creates exaggerated harmony mixed with decorativeness ad functionalism, and pursue for frank desire and reflects optimistic trend of New Millenium seeking for fun and humor.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.19
no.2
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pp.129-144
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2017
Throughout the rich human history, patterns have developed as a symbolic sign and representation of the inner psychology of human beings. Thanks to its intrinsic beauty and emotional richness, the flower has been utilized as a one of the major materials for patterns used in everyday life and art. As a product of nature, floral patterns have played a key role in fashion trends as a Surface Design with other elements of fashion design such as silhouette, fabric and color. Therefore, this research sought to identify the trends of floral patterns of women's garments that appeared at the four major global fashion collections (Paris, Milano, New York and London), and to analyze how importantly the fashion magazines' prediction were applied in the actual collections. Furthermore, the research aimed to suggest possible methods to utilize trend magazines for collections in the future. As a main research method, the authors investigated professional fashion literature and internet websites to extract a total of 4,681 items presented by sixteen designers who participated in the four major global fashion collections each time during the period of the 2012 S/S~2017 S/S seasons. First View Korea and Samsung Design Net were used as major sources for the pattern extraction and analysis. According to the analysis, floral patterns account for 31%(1,454 items) among the total number of patterns appearing in the four major global fashion collections(4,681 items). For the reflection ratio, Samsung Design Net recorded a 4% higher ratio(52%) than First View Korea(48%). Based on the data and analysis of this research, the authors expect that floral patterns in various forms will be continuously presented in fashion collections, and conclude that utilizing fashion magazines is highly useful due to their appropriate predictions.
This study attempted to explore how middle aged married men and women prospected a Centenarian society and what implications their prospect cast for family policy. We conducted focus group interviews with five groups in order to identify their subjective prospects on marital relations, parent-child relations, caregiving from family or institutions, and alternative living arrangement. From those interviews, we found that married men and women in their 40s, 50s, and 60s possessed ambivalent attitudes toward their marital relationship, either acknowledging an importance of marital relationship or accepting long-standing disrespectful marital relationship. They also had a dualistic perspective on parent-child relationship, accepting parental responsibility for children and even grand-children but maintaining low expectations for children. What they needed was age appropriate opportunities for work or leisure and better community services and facilities. These results showed that the middle-aged was concerned experiencing unprecedented family situations. They needed family life education and services in order to adapt to the Centenarian society. Since family policy has viewed this age group out of service target, programs and services have been underdeveloped for this group. Expecting a Centenarian society however, we need to expand the boundary of family policy and take a new perspective. We need to develop and implement marital education programs, community-based self-care services, and age-appropriated opportunities for work, leisure, and social relations.
This study aims to analyze contemporary women's sense of fashion aesthetic by looking into the design and trend of T-panties, which have now carved out a new niche in the world's 21st century female underwear markets. By this, I'd like to reassure readers of the importance of T-panties, which has only been recently recognized, and more generally suggests the future direction of prominent T-panty design development. First, western urban chic, Japanese minimalism and domestic modern feminine images all have common modern urban sense and simple designs. However, each image is not a simple image in itself. For example, in the case of western style they often seek to convey a sophisticated and stylish street sense, while Koreans add a more cute, lovely, and feminine touch. Second, western restrained eroticism, Japanese fetishism and domestic mono-bosom images all have a common interest in sex. They is something, however, which they all express this differently. In Japan, they prefer a stimulating image. In the West, however, this is restrained by controlling and limiting overt sexual elements, while in Korea, we seek to capture a more simple sensual beauty. Third, western couture luxury, Japanese orientalism and Korean utopia narcissism have classy images in common including splendid materials and decorations with embroidery. They all differ depending on their nationality. This study is baseds on the documents study. This study is baseds on the documents study.
$21^{st}$ century post digital society orients co-existence, fusion, and blurring boundary than conflict, differentiation, and boundary, and makes a try liberal combination of various different objects. Furthermore, radical development of science and digital equipments offer technical possibility that could combine various fields. Hence, many different departments demolish their boundary, and combine for development of multi-functional and complex shape's products. For job-nomads, fashion attempts to combine with architecture, furniture, daily necessities, and digital equipments spontaneously. This paper aims at consideration about the blurring phenomena expressed in complex fashion space of $21^{st}$ century throughout empirical fashion photographs analysis, which show combination among fashion and various different fields. Blurring boundary phenomena of complex fashion space are classified with 4 parts as follows as: 1) furniturizing, 2) wearable dwelling, 3) lumiduct, 4) becoming fashion. Each parts are examined 8 aesthetical characteristics such as movement and lightness, hyper-link and openness, immateriality and inter-activeness, and diversity and ambiguity. $21^{st}$ century fashion has changed more simple and light, and creates new form throughout combination with many other fields, and enlarges its function and sphere. I think this paper would help certificating practical use of fashion space as multiple and complex space, and makes contribution to forecast about fashion development of the future and offer inspiration about creative and innovative fashion design.
The purpose of this study was to develop a new torso pattern for the schoolgirl of a tween generation who had different somatotype from children and teenagers. The subjects in this study were female elementary school students of fifth or sixth grade. Through a sensory evaluation of four existing torso patterns, the first research torso pattern was developed. Drafting methods of each item, which closed to the optimum value three, were selected. The differences between the values of the selected drafting methods and the optimum three were verified through a Wilcoxon's ranked sum test. The final research torso pattern was developed through adjusting the drafting methods according to the deviation from the optimum value three. The schoolgirl of a tween generation is at the time to show the remarkable breast development compared with a waist circumference, so the bust drafting was defined as B/4+ 1.25cm separately front and back. The drafting of a waist circumference was defined as W/4+1cm separately front and back which taken the ease amounts of the somatotype into consideration of the schoolgirl of a tween generation. A princess line was used instead of a waist dart because their hip circumference was more developed than a waist circumference. The crossed amount of a front hemline was 0.3cm and that of a back hemline was 0.7cm. and the princess line of the position was drawn with a straight line at a right angle of the back waistline. The armhole depth was determined B/4-1cm in consideration of the aesthetic and the trend, although the effective movement of upper arm was required.
Purpose - This paper attempts to compare five free trade agreements with gender chapters ratified by Chile and Canada and derives lessons for Korea in terms of gender-aware trade policy. While Chile and Canada have three and two FTAs with gender chapter respectively, Korea has none so far, although it has already ratified an FTA with the two countries. Design/methodology - This study first investigates all the gender-provisions with the gender chapters, conducts a comparative analysis on the five chapters as well as a case study of one target FTA's implementation and achievements, and finally suggests policy implications for Korea's trade administration as well as trade-related agencies. Findings - According to the analysis, there are three phases in terms of advancement in gender-related trade policy. As Chile is in phase two and Canada is in phase three, Korea remains in phase one. It has a ministry related to gender within the government, but not within the OMT. It has statistics on female business, but not of women traders. It has a few gender-related provisions in its FTAs, but not a gender chapter. In this sense, new mandates related to gender-aware trade policy for OMT, KITA, and KOTRA should be provided to realize the concrete economic benefits resulting from empowering women traders and policies promoting them. Originality/value - Existing studies only focus on introducing gender-related international commitments and Korea's participation in them. This paper is the first attempt to compare actual gender chapters of five FTAs ratified by two countries with the most advanced gender chapters in the world. To gain benefits from the positive gender impact of trade agreements, negotiating and signing gender responsive FTA with future partners is one of the most efficient, as well as inclusive, trade policies urgently needed for Korea.
Purpose - This case study reviews the development history of Lotte Shopping, which has played a key role in modernizing Korea's retail industry. Research design, data, and methodology - Lotte Shopping's expansion to various channel types has been reviewed from the perspective of the resource-based view of strategy. The opening of Lotte Department Store in 1979 signaled the beginning of the modernized distribution system in Korea. Lotte Shopping expanded its business domains to various types of retail channels, such as discount stores, online shopping malls, TV home shopping, convenience stores, supermarkets, home appliances specialty stores and health & beauty stores. Results - Lotte Shopping has been able to maintain high level of customer satisfaction with leading merchandising skills. It has developed mutually beneficial relationship with the partner firms. It has also been a leading firm in implementing corporate social responsibility activities and environment-friendly management. Lotte Shopping has applied advanced information and communication technology to provide customized goods/services. Conclusions - This study summarizes the business environment and new challenges Lotte Shopping faces currently. Lotte Shopping is trying to reinforce the omni-channel strategy, which can create synergy among various distribution channels based on its core competences.
The purpose of this study is to classify and analyze the deconstruction phenomena expressed in contemporary knit fashion design, and to analyze the inner meaning of deconstruction based on certain characteristics. As a method of study, literature data for theoretical backgrounds, prior studies, and internet data were analyzed. The scope of this study was restricted to knitwear published in the world's four major collections (Milan, Paris, New York and London) from 2014 F/W to 2018 S/S. Based on prior studies, four concepts of deconstruction were derived: "$Diff{\acute{e}}reance$", "Intertextuality", "Intermeaning of Meaning", "Dis De Phenomenon". The results of the study were as follows: first, "$Diff{\acute{e}}reance$" refers to a transcendence of time and space. These expressions are discursive, unrealistic, and convey freedom through intent that deviates from rules and norms. Second, "Intertextuality" indicates a mixture of different texts, such as styles, materials, and items. These expressions deliver novelty with amusement, and can be entertaining depending on audience expectations. Third, "Intermeaning of Meaning" is accidental category - depending on how the wearer wears the clothing. -; accordingly, free and spontaneous creativity is an emerging trend in fashion. Fourth, the clothing was expressed in deformed and distorted form by the construction and destruction of the structure, a technique we describe as the "Dis De Phenomenon". In this concept, the sense of free design of young emotion appears along with the sense of purity and shock due to intentional inconsistency.
This study aims to investigate the socio-cultural background of Poulaines, which influenced fashion and contemporary shoe design. Analyzing the characteristics of the Poulaines provided basic data for different shoes. The study method utilized previous studies to explore the concept and characteristics of Poulaines. In the empirical analysis, shoe design data mainly came from collections that illustrate formative elements of contemporary shoe design from the 2010 S/S season to the 2020 S/S season. A total of 709 photo materials were collected and analyzed. The results showed that the morphological characteristics of Poulaines were exaggerated to symbolize classes of the past and sexual expression. The expanding structure was divided into the fore nose, heel, and top-line and featured a design that expressed the formative beauty of Poulaines. Additionally, the decorative desire to represent wealth and class using various materials introduced new designs into contemporary shoe designs while showing extreme decorativeness through over-trimming and color contrast. Furthermore, the heterogeneous characteristics that come from the change and harmony of the shoes' body and heel that deviated from the existing shoe shapes were classified into the dissolution of shapes and mixing and matching. Thus, they broke the monotonous silhouette of shoes and gave variety delicately.
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