• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.233-238
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• 2006

This research confirmed the chemical structure of Curcumine and Carthamin pigments whose pigments were separated and refined from the Curcuma longa and Carthamus Tinctorious which were natural dye using FT-IR, HPLC and so on. The cotton and the silk fabrics were dyed using a main pigment and then this research obtained the conclusion as it follows. The curcumine, the main pigment of Curcuma longa extracted from the mixed solvent of acetic anhydride and methanol ($CH_3OH$), had the maximum absorption wavelength at 504.0 nm and was confirmed as yellow natural pigment. The Carthamin, the main pigment of Carthamus Tinctorious extracted from the mixed solvent of dichloromethane and methanol, had the maximum absorption wavelength at 420.0nm. This pigment was confirmed as yellow natural pigment. The dyeing property of the main pigment about the silk fabrics was superior to that about the cotton in both the Curcuma longa and Carthamus Tinctorious, and the dyeing property of Carthamus Tinctorious was superior to that of Curcuma longa.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.46 no.1
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• pp.33-48
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• 2022

This study was performed to compare the color emotion and preference of Koreans and Chinese for a two-color combination by dyeing cotton fabric with persimmon and indigo and to establish prediction models of color preference. Nine specimens prepared by combining two different colored fabrics (persimmon and indigo) were evaluated for color emotion and preference by Korean and Chinese groups of female college students. Koreans described most specimens as natural and traditional, whereas the Chinese described them as more pleasant and elegant as well as warmer and lighter than Koreans did. The contrast tone was the most preferred combination by both groups, whereas it was perceived as more modern and less warm by Koreans. Relationships between physical color variables and color emotions were quantified; these relationships were applied to establish a prediction model of color preference with tone combination types for each group. These results could help in making the design of fashion textiles more preference- and emotion-oriented for Korean and Chinese consumers.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.143-150
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• 1999

A natural dyeing makes fabrics look unique and elegant which cannot be obtain by synthetic dyestuffs. The natural dyestuffs are harmless to human, and it is easy to get them. Also, the natural dyestuffs are environmentally frendly, which is the anther merit for natural dyeing,We investigated dyeability with several fabrics (cotton, wool, ramie, silk and nylon) using an elm bark. We mordants(natural and synthetic). Also, colorfastness in dyed fabrics was estimated by laundering and light. The optimum condition of dyeability in elm bark was 60 min as time, $80^{\circ}C$ as temperature and 1: 40 as bath ratio. The dyeability in silk and nylon was the best among the sample. The treatment of mordants improved the dyeability and colorfastness in silk, wool and nylon. We obtain various color by the mordants.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.11a
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• pp.33-33
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• 2011

Artificial silk that called "Ponggi (Gyeongsangbukdo, Korea) In-Gyeun" in Korea is entirely viscose rayon of which made main component refined larches and cotton linter. It also is natural fabrics with light weight, cool texture, free from the body and well ventilation property, so, feel good touch during the wearing. In addition, it often used as summer cloth and bedding because it has good absorbancy to perspiration and antistatic. The "Hanji", made of paper mulberry, is known as useful material for human. In this research focused on dyeability of Artificial silk/paper mulberry mixed fabrics using Dendropanax morbifera Lev.(called as "Hwangchil") Especially, the results were in comparison to the dyeing properties of Hwangchil with liquid/solid fermentation or not. As the results, The ${\Delta}E$ difference was dominated when the fabric dyed with fermentation by solid state at $60^{\circ}C$. And it was confirmed that the pH of fermented dye had an important influence in the coloration.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.431-440
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• 2016

The purpose of this research is to revive the colors of combination dyeing and mixed dyeing with natural dyestuffs. The fabrics used were cotton and rayon. The natural dyestuffs used in this research were indigo, Phellodendron amurense, and Caesalpinia sappan. The effects of combination dyeing were as follows. First, all samples showed deeper colors. Second, according to the results of the surface K/S measurement, while the surface K/S of cotton was over 15, that of rayon was over 17. Third, the results of the light fastness measurement showed the superiority (by over grade 4) of all the samples, except in the case of rayon fiber sample no. 6 (which had been pre-dyed with indigo five times before being dyed with P. amurense once and then being dyed with C. sappan once). In the color fastness to washing measurement, all fibers showed superiority (by over grade 3~4). In addition, the color fastness to dry cleaning of all fibers was satisfactory or excellent (by over grade 3). Fourth, according to the results of the tensile strength measurement, it tended to decrease in the case of cotton and increase in the case of rayon. Fifth, the results of the density measurement showed that the density of cotton decreased by about 15~20% in the case of warp and 10% in the case of weft for all samples. The density of rayon decreased 20% in the case of warp for all samples and increased 30% in the case of weft for all samples.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.501-509
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• 2008

This research intends to help local small fashion industry to outgrow its limitation, preserving and developing environment-friendly dyeing tradition in Jeju renowned for persimmon juice dyeing. The study, then, aims to develop eco-friendly golf-wear designs, with maximizing advantages of natural dyeing (with persimmon juice, indigo plant, gallnut, cochineal, turmeric, and loess) such as rot-proofness, bacteria-proofness, stench-proofness and block of ultraviolet rays. The results are as follows: first, natural fabrics such as muslin(cotton 100%), linen(linen 100%) and spandex(mixed cotton 98%, polyurethane 2%) were developed into eco-friendly ones colored with various natural dye sources. Second, four kinds of golf-wear design were developed to stand out golf wear's natural image, focused on classic, neo-minimal style. The characteristic details and design elements of sportswear were added to basic golf wear design. Therefore, it is hopeful that those designs of naturally dyed golf wear for women could be utilized for other various purposes in the future.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.791-803
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• 2012

This study intends to identify applicability of natural dye extracted from Aplysia kurodai, aiming to standardization of Aplysia kurodai natural dyeing through scientific validation by analyzing characteristics of pigment elements to review dyeability, colorfastness and antibacterial activity. Such material as silk fabrics that is animal fiber were used for this purpose, and derived following summarized results. UV/VIS spectrum analysis on the pigment of Aplysia kurodai that was extracted from purple gland showed that maximum absorbtion was near 540 nm. The silk fabric optimal dyeing can be achieved at a temperature of $55^{\circ}C$ with a colorant concentration of 5%. Dyed at $55^{\circ}C$ with interval of 10~90 minutes for identifying dye uptake over time to observed slow increase of dye uptake over time, and equilibrium occurred at 50 minutes. For dye uptake according to pH, while dye uptake was superior in acidity, it decreased rapidly in a base after pH 7. For color changes according to pH variation, it was reddish purple in acidity and was purplish red in a base. For color changes according to mordanting method, more clear color change had been obtained when process with aluminium pre-mordanting than non-mordanting and post-mordanting. The colorfastness to light, perspiration and washing was 1, 4~5, and 3~4 ratings respectively. The silk fabric dyed with Aplysia kurodai demonstrated excellent antimicrobial activity to Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae. The Aplysia kurodai can be used as a new colorant for the natural dyeing of silk.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.256-265
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to check color change, color fastness, increase wt., antibiosis, and UV-protection efficiency depending on gallnut concentrations and mordanting methods, when silk fabrics dye with gromwell according to pH. This results will contribute in developing of natural mordant with multi function. The results are as follows. ${\lambda}_{max}$ of Gallnut extracts was near 299 nm. When gallnut was used as a mordant, at all pH levels, pre-mordanted fabrics had red color and post-mordanted ones had red-purple color which was closed to natural color of gromwell. Brightness of post-mordanted fabrics was higher than that of pre-mordanted fabrics. In the case of chroma, pre-mordanted fabrics was higher than post-mordanted fabrics. There was no significant difference of color, brightness, and chroma depending on gallnut concentration. As mordanting concentration increased, fabric weight gradually went up and increase weight reached maximum $17{\sim}19%$. At all pH levels, color fastness improved by pre-mordanting and post-mordanting, and it showed the maximum $4{\sim}5$ grade of wet fastness and 5 grade of dry cleaning. Antibiosis of silk fabric was improved by gromwell dyeing and synthetic tannin mordanting. Antibiosis of gallnut extracts was excellent. The color fastness and antibiosis were preserved after 10 cycle dry cleaning. UV-protection efficiency was excellent by dyeing with gromwell and mordanting with gallnut.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.180-189
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• 2006

Mercerization of cotton fabrics affects their various properties including physical properties and dyeing behavior. In this study, the concentration levels of NaOH solution, with 18% and 25%, and the mercerization temperature levels, $22^{\circ}C,\;10^{\circ}C$, and $5^{\circ}C$, were changed in order to investigate the physical properties and dyeing behavior using Gardenia, a natural dyestuff, and direct dyes. The effect of tension during the mercerization was also investigated. In order to investigate the dyeing behavior of Gardenia, a direct dyestuff was employed as a comparative material for better objective analysis and evaluation. It was found that the mercerization condition of 18% NaOH concentration at $10^{\circ}C$, without tension, resulted in the highest ${\Delta}E$ value, when dyed with Gardenia.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.187-194
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• 2011

This study used Jeju scoria to dye cotton fabric and measured its dyeability, colorfastness, antibacterial activity, deodorization efficiency, ultraviolet protection, and far-infrared emission. The cotton fabric was colored to yellowish red and optimal dyeing can be achieved at a temperature of $80^{\circ}C$ for a dyeing time of 120 minutes with a colorant concentration of 25%(o.w.b). The colorfastness to light, rubbing, perspiration, and washing was 8, 5, 5, and 4~5 ratings respectively, where the wash colorfastness remained after 15 wash cycles. The cotton fabric dyed with Jeju scoria demonstrated excellent antimicrobial activity to Staphylococcus aureus and high deodorization efficiency. Ultraviolet protection factor was as high as 50+. The Jeju scoria can be used as a new colorant for the natural dyeing of silk.