• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.361-370
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• 2014

The fabric, 100% Silk, was dyed with Atractylodes japonica extract solution. The effects of concentration of extracts (colorant), temperature of dyeing, time of dyeing and pH of dye bath were studied. As the concentration of extracts increased, color strength (K/S value) increased progressively. The K/S values increased with raising temperature, time and proper conditions were $80^{\circ}C$ and 80 minutes. Maximum K/S value was obtained at pH 3. The K/S values of mordanted fabrics were increased with increasing mordant concentration up to specific values. Surface color of dyed and mordanted fabrics were yellowish. Light color fastness of fabric with mordanting was fairly good 3/4 rating. The mordanted silk fabrics showed excellent antibacterial activity. The silk fabric dyed with Atractylodes japonica extract showed a superior UV protective property.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.370-379
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• 1989

In previous paper, the optical behavior of coloring matter of Cromwell under several conditions were investigated. In this paper, the fading behavior of color solution extracted from Growell by methanol, dyeing properties of this color on the silk fibers in water and methanol, the three property of color of dyed silk fabrics, and fading behavior of dyed silk fabrics with Cromwell color under light and washing were discussed.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.210-218
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• 2018

The natural dye product market is expanding due to the recent interest in environmentally friendly products. This study examines dyeing using natural Coptidis Rhizoma. Chitosan and Tannin was treated to improve dyeability of Coptidis Rhizoma after finding the proper dyeing condition. In addition, dyeing characteristics were compared according to mordant types along with the mordanting methods for dye fixing and color change. The results indicated that the optimum dyeing condition was to treat the concentration of 5% (o.w.b.) at $80^{\circ}C$ for 90 minutes. By the chitosan and tannin treatments, K/S value of cotton fabrics by 3 times and those of wool fabrics by 2 times increased and color depthing of dyed fabrics was achieved after 2 cycles repetition. To improve dyeability, iron mordanting was most effective; in addition, the K/S Value of pre-mordanting fabrics versus post-mordanting fabrics increased the most. The color of the surface was changed to reddish yellow when Sn, Cu mordanting, and to greenish blue when Fe mordanting. The lightfastness of dyeing fabric with mordanting was weak at 1-2 grades, but the washing fastness was good for 4 grades and the rubbing fastness and sweat fastness were as good as those of the 3-4 grades. As a result, this study could help improve the dyeability of expensive Coptidis Rhizoma.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.381-388
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was investigate the dyeing property on chitosan crosslinked cotton fabric with cochineal at variable conditions. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were manufactured by crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics dyed using cochineal were post-mordanted using Al, Fe and Cu. The dyeability(K/S) of chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were measured by computer color matching. Additionally the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. The dye-uptake of chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics increased with the dyeing time. The saturated dyeing time was about 20minutes at $60^{\circ}C$. The dyeability(K/S) was remarkably increased with increasing content of crosslinked chitosan because of having a amine group of chitosan. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were dyed yellowish red by non and Fe mordanting, blueish red by Al and Cu mordanting, respectively. The washing and light fastness were increased by mordanting, especially Cu and Fe mordanting.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.16-24
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• 1995

Traditionally dyeing fabric with dyestuff extracted from Indigo was a popular method of obtaining blue color in the world before synthetic dyestuff was developed in the 1890's. As the Korean traditional process of dyeing extracted from Indigo, there are two kinds of dyeing process; The deposite dyeing of muddy Indigo and the leaf dyeing of Indigo plant. In order to study the properties of leaf dyeing of Indigo, the dyeing properties, color difference on cotton and silk fabrics under several dyeing conditions were investigated. In the dyeing of cotton and silk fabrics with leaf dyeing of Indigo, the dyeing affinity of silk was higher than that of cotton, the cotton and silk fabrics were dyed dark yellowish Green and dark Blue, respectively. the dye uptake increased with the increase of dyeing temperature and of the unmber of dyeing times. When cotton and silk fabrics dyed with leaf dyeing of Indigo at 6$0^{\circ}C$ for six number of times, the K/S value of dyed cotton and silk were calculated 1.286, 2.613 respectively.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.29-38
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• 2005

Natural dyes have attracted the worldwide attention because of its environmental advantage over synthetic dyes. However, most of natural dyes are expensive for mass production, strongly season and source dependent, and hard to store. In this study, coffee waste were used as natural dye to create beautiful colors. Coffee waste is inexpensive and easy to store, and provides a comparatively regular quality regardless of seasonand source. The effects of mordant agent concentration and mordanting temperature on dyeing efficiency of silk fabrics were investigated. Coffee extract dyed silk showed brilliant colors, and the colors were different with the kind of mordants. Cu, Sn, and Al mordanted silks showed golden yellow with subtle change of hue and value, while Fe mordanted silk showed a brownish green color. The increase in mordant concentration did not always increase the dyeability, and 0.5% o.w.f. mordant concentration was enough to get a satifactory result. Mordanting temperature also had little effect on the dyeability in case of Al, Cu, and Sn mordanted fabrics. Only Fe mordanted fabrics showed a better dyeability in the increase in mordating temperature. Coffee extract dyeing is an effective way using waste as resource and can create brilliant colors with minimal amount of mordant and under mild mordanting condition.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.86-98
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• 2009

The fashion industry saw the emergence of environment-friendly and natural fabric materials recently. The naturalism trend has established sectors in the textile and fashion industry also. Ramie and hemp have long been favored fabric materials in Korea especially for summer. The hand-related mechanical/physical properties of the fabric specimens were analyzed using a fabric objective measurement system, KES(Kawabata Evaluation System). Subjective evaluation was also implemented based on a series of selected adjectives. Studies on natural dyeing methods are important since the establishment of scientific approach is needed in terms of environment and human safety along with the reproduction of traditional natural dyeing methods. In this study, linen, ramie, hemp, and cotton/polyester/linen union fabric specimens were used for the natural dyeing using Rubia akane Nakai with the mordant of gallnut. ${\Delta}E$ values of dyed fabric specimens, mordanted and dyed once using Rubia akane Nakai, increased significantly compared to those of repeatedly dyed fabric specimens without mordanting.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.19-29
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• 1997

A natural colorant was extracted from Clove using methanol. The dyeabilities and fastness of silk fabrics dyed with Clove extract were investigated. The results obtained were as follows; 1. The colorant extracted with methanol was higher in concentration than that with boiling water and was represented high reproducibility. 2. The optimum dyeing temperature and dyeing time were 6$0^{\circ}C$ and 60min, respectively. 3. The color depths were observed to be decreased as follows; pre-mordant > after-mordant repeat dyeing > after-mordant > simultaneous-mordant 4. Clove extract dyed brownish black on the Fe-mordanted silk. In case of the other mordants, silk fabrics dyed yellow. 5. The dyed silks had poor light-fastness but good wet-fastness.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.255-261
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• 2006

There is increasing interest in the many beneficial aspects of green tea to human such as anti-carcinogenic, anti-aggregant, anti-allergic, anti-bacterial, anti-mutagenic, and anti-oxidant activities. Besides these beneficial aspects, it has been reported that green tea ingredients, especially polyphenolic families (i.e., catechin), have some UV protection property both in vivo and in topical applications. In this study, green tea extract was used as a dyeing stock for cotton and the UV protection property of the dyed cotton fabric was examined. To increase the affinity of cotton fiber to the polyphenolic components in the green tea extract, a natural biopolymer, chitosan, was used as mordanting agent. The effects of chitosan concentration in mordanting on the dyeing characteristics and the UV protection property were examined. Chitosan mordanted green tea dyed cotton showed better dyeing characteristic and higher UV protection property compared with the unmordanted green tea dyed cotton. As the chitosan concentration in mordanting increased, the dyeing efficiency and the UV protection property also increased. Therefore, adapting chitosan mordanting in green tea dyeing can increase the UV protection property of cotton fabrics to some extent.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.389-395
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• 2000

A natural colorants was extracted from cherry by 10wt% aqueous acetic acid solution as an extractant. Silk and cotton fabrics were dyed with the cherry extract in the temperature range of $40-80^\circ{C}$ and for the time range of 30-60min. by pre- and post-mordanting with various mordants, their dyeability and fastness were investigated. The natural cherry extract prepared in this study has a maximum absorbance at 520nm. It was found that the optimum dyeing temperature and time were $40^\circ{C}$ and 50min, respectively. The pre-mordanting method was more effective than post-mordanting. All mordants except $SnCl_2\cdot{2H}_2O\;and\;FeSO_4\cdot{7H}_2O$ were effective for silk fabrics. However, the dyeability on cotton fabrics increased in the order of $CrK(SO_4)_2\cdot{12H_2O>(CH_3COO)_2Cu\cdot{H}_2O>CuSO_4\cdot{5H}_2O>AlK(SO_4)_2\cdot{12H}_2O>FeSO_4\cdot{7H}_2O>SnCl_2\cdot{2H}_2O$ among the mordants used in this study Fastness(light, water, washing, perpspiration fastness) on the silk and cotton fabrics increased with using mordants. The post-mordanting using mordant$(CH_3COO)_2Cu\cdot{H}_2O$ among the various mordants in this study gave the best fastness.