• 한국염색가공학회지
• /
• 제33권4호
• /
• pp.191-201
• /
• 2021

In this study, an eco-friendly indigo reduction system(scale up reduction, use of buffer solution, and pH control) using baker's yeast(Saccharomyces cerevisiae) was applied for natural indigo(Polygonum tinctorium) dyeing of Hanji fabric and Hanji-mixture fabric(Hanji/Cotton, Hanji/Silk). The effect of concentration of baker's yeast, repeat dyeing, and bath reuse was investigated in terms of dye uptake indicating reduction power. And the oxidation-reduction potential(ORP) was monitored. We also evaluated color properties and colorfastness according to the color strength. The yeast concentration did not significantly affect the maximum reduction power. However, the highest yeast concentration was effective in improving the initial dye uptake, and its the reduction retention power was the most excellent. Even on the last reduction day, the effect of increasing the dye uptake by repeat dyeing was observed. And it was confirmed that the reduction bath could be reused for up to 30 days by supplementing yeast at the end of reduction. For all the fabrics used, deeper and darker PB color were obtained by repeat dyeing. As dyeing was repeated, purplish tint got stronger on the Hanji/Silk fabric compared to other fabrics. Regardless of the composition of Hanji fabrics and color strength, washing and dry cleaning fastness were relatively good with above rating 4-5, and fastness to rubbing and light were acceptable with a rating 3-4 ~ 4-5. The eco-friendly natural indigo dyeing process using niram and baker's yeast would offer global marketability and diversity of Hanji product as a sustainable high value-added material.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제3권1호
• /
• pp.35-41
• /
• 2001

Dyeing properties of silk fabric with onion shell were studied by investigating the effect of dyeing conditions, such as concentration of onion shell, dyeing temperature, dyeing time and pH, on dye uptakes. And also the effects of mordants and mordanting methods or color change and dye uptakes were investigated. For the practical use, the various color fastness of dyed and mordanted fabric were evaluated. The color fastness was improved when Fe mordant was added.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제2권1호
• /
• pp.5-20
• /
• 2000

This study classified the new fabrics of apparel Which was published in the domestic magazines newspapers since late nineteen-nineties and analyzed the characteristics of each new fabrics. We propose the recent trend of the development of new fabrics and therefore, predict the new fabric trend of the future. The new fabrics of apparel were classified as, 1. Sanitation and health promoting new fabric. 2. Aesthetic promoting new ones. 3. High functional new ones. 4. Natural fabric oriented new ones. 5. Pro-environmental new ones. The developmental trend of future new fabrics were predicted as followings 1. The pursuit of development of Pro-environmental textile materials 2. The pursuit of development of health enhancing textile materials 3. The pursuit of development of easy-controlling textile materials 4. The pursuit of development of long lasting-comfortable textile materials 5. The pursuit of development of high-aesthetic textile materials 6. The pursuit of development of textile materials Which have the advantages of the natural fabrics Conclusively, the new fabrics of apparel will be developed as the one which has above complicated multi-function and chaotic ability to fitting to environmental change.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제5권3호
• /
• pp.283-288
• /
• 2003

Large quantity of metal mordant in natural dyeing has been used. For environmental reason, there is a need to reduce the amount of metal mordant and suggest the optimum amount of metal mordant in dyeing process. In this study, the relationship between mordant concentration and dyeing property was investigated. Various metal mordant concentrations of AI, Cu, Fe, Sn, were studied (from 1 to 5%). After treatment of mordant on cotton fabric, the concentration of metal ion in used mordant solution was quantified. There was no significant difference of the tone of color in mordant concentration from 1% to 5%, Therefore, there is no need to increase mordant concentration over 1%. chitosan treated cotton fabric showed a significant increase in dyeing affinity compared to untreated cotton fabric (the value of ${\Delta}E$ was 20). chitosan increased dye affinity significantly in the presence of mordant. It can be suggested that chitosan itself can replace metal mordants in the future.

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국염색가공학회 2010년도 제3회 국제학회
• /
• pp.29-30
• /
• 2010

Cotton fabric is usually dyed with anionic dyes such as direct and reactive dyes. Naturally, there is no affinity for basic dyes to cotton fiber. In this study, to improve the dyeability of cotton fiber with cationic dyes, the fabric was pretreated with air plasma and grafted with acrylic acid to create acidic groups on the surface of cotton fibers. The grafted samples were dyed with natural cationic dye extracted from roots of berberis vulgaris. The effect of plasma treatment and grafting of acrylic acid on the color strength of cotton fabric was studied.

• 대한가정학회지
• /
• 제48권5호
• /
• pp.17-24
• /
• 2010

Although design, color, and material are important elements in stage costumes, stage lightning also plays significant role in the presentation of stage costumes. Costumes color, material and perception can be significantly influenced by visual effects. Stage illumination can be arranged or managed so that colors are closely related to or enhanced or change the effects of costume colors on the runway or display at specific times. The results of this thesis are as follow; 1) Fabric tone, name, brightness, and chroma of colors were changed by the colors of stage lighting. 2) An achromatic color was changed to a chromatic color after being combined with colors of stage lighting. 3) Stage illuminations can make fabric, colors look similar to stage colors. 4) Plain satin silk fabric which reflects light shows high brightness and chroma after being influenced by stage lighting its shining effects and color changes were clear and apparent. 5) Velvet pile fabric which absorbs light shows low brightness and chroma after being influenced by stage lightning its shining effects and changes of colors were not clear and apparent. In conclusion, natural lights did not significantly influence fabric colors and perception, while artificial lights had wide range of effects on fabric colors and perception.

• 한국염색가공학회지
• /
• 제30권4호
• /
• pp.227-236
• /
• 2018

As consciousness of safety becomes an important social issue, the demand for protective clothing is increasing. Conventional flame-retardant cotton working wear has low durability, and working wear with m-aramid fibers are stiff, heavy, less permeable, and expensive. In this study, recycled m-aramid and cotton have been blended to produce woven fabric of different compositions to enhance high performance and comfort to solve aforementioned problems. The fabrics were analyzed according to constituents and various structural factors. Mechanical properties were measured using KES-FB system. The measured thermal properties are TGA, $Q_{max}$, TPP and RPP. Fabric with polyurethane yarn covered by m-aramid/cotton spun yarn is observed to have good wearability. The fabric of open end spun yarn showed more stiffness than that of ring spun yarn. The sample with the high count of yarn has more smooth surface. In addition, high m-aramid content fabric is considered to have relatively high stiffness when using as clothing. In TGA the fabric with higher m-aramid content showed more stable decomposition behavior. The fabric having rough surface showed lower heat transfer properties in $Q_{max}$. The influence of the fabric thickness was important in convection and radiant heat test.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제4권3호
• /
• pp.79-90
• /
• 2000

On the beginning of 21C, in which it is a facing problem that the expansive image of future in fashion should be proposed from the comprehensive analysis for the fashion trend. Therefore, in this study, the trends of capricious fashion are distinctly quantified by investigating the cue of fashion in each styles. Also, the systematic evaluation is carried out of analyzing photographs to which the four important fashion styles. In particular, this study takes the practical and numerical results through quantitative analysis by statistical treatment as well as through qualitative analysis that has been formerly used in the other studies. The purposes of this study are to examine fashion trends expressed in important styles in the 1990s, and to formulate productive fashion of the future. In the qualitative analysis, the four important fashions of neo-mods/jazz, neo-hippie/grunge, sportive-casual and techos/cyber-punk are grouped. In the quantitative analysis, statistical data are sampled from Collection II of the 1990s A/W. It takes frequency, percentage, $x^2$-test and etc, by using the comprehensive tools for statistical treatment. There were significant differences between the A/W fashion. According to the cues, there are also significant differences between the fashion in the 1990s. The results of this study are summarized as follows: (1) In 'Neo-Mos/Jazz' style shows highly androgynous look, deep and strong tone, green/blue colors, natural fabric, stripe pattern, long hair style, and hided make-up. (2) 'Neo-hippie/gnenge' style shows highly folklore look, vivid tone purple colors, seethrough/knit fabric, natural /traditional pattern, decorative hair special make-up. (3) 'Sportive casuals' style shows highly sportive look, greish tone, white/grey colours, natural fabric, solid patten, bobbed hair, and natural make-up. (4) 'Techno/cyber punk style shows highly comocorps look, pale tone black colors avangard fabric, solid patten, punk/dyed hair special make-up.

• 한국염색가공학회지
• /
• 제35권2호
• /
• pp.82-96
• /
• 2023

The purpose of this study is to enhance the usability of hanji fabrics by expanding the color space of hanji fabrics. For the expression of various colors of hanji fabrics, single and combination dyeing were carried out using natural indigo(Niram, Polygonum tinctorium), marigold extract colorant, and madder extract colorant for three types of hanji fabrics with different fiber compositions(hanji, hanji/cotton, hanji/silk). The light, medium, and deep colors obtained through individual single dyeing were shown to be PB Munsell colors in the case of indigo dyeing, Y color for marigold dyeing, and R color for madder dyeing. For combination dyeing, indigo dyeing was first carried out under the conditions for light, medium, and deep colors, respectively, and marigold or madder dyeing was performed thereafter. Indigo and marigold combination dyeing produced PB, B, BG, G, and GY Munsell colors and indigo and madder combination dyeing produced PB, P, RP, and R Munsell colors. Overall, the color change of hanji/silk fabric was more diverse than that of hanji fabric and hanji/cotton fabric. In the indigo, marigold, and madder combination dyeing into individual deep colors, blackish PB and P Munsell colors was obtained. Colorfastness to washing, dry cleaning, rubbing, and light were relatively good with above rating 4. Finally, 9 colors excluding YR color out of 10 Munsell color were obtained. We confirmed that the expansion of the color space of Hanji fabrics by the single and combination dyeing with indigo, marigold, and madder.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제2권2호
• /
• pp.118-122
• /
• 2000

Dyeing properties of silk fabric with loess were studied by investigating the effect of dyeing conditions, such as concentration of loess, dyeing temperature and time, on dye uptakes. And also the effects of mordant and mordanting methods on color change and dye uptakes were inverstigated. For the practical use, the various color fastness of dyed fabric were evaluated. The dye uptakes of dyed fabric were increased gradually with increasing concentration of loess, dyeing time and temperature. The K/S value of dyed fabric most efficient for the premordanting method. The color fastness was improved when mordants were added.