• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.29-45
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• 2010

In order to provide more systematic approach to analyze fabric trends and to develop fabrics accordingly, ecology fabric trend from 1986 to 2005 was analyzed related with fabric trend themes and fabric attributes. The result shows that in the 1980s, natural theme appeared, followed by primitive theme and imitated natural theme until the mid 1990s. From the late 1990s to the early 2000s, new natural theme appeared, followed by eco-friendly theme, and then recycling theme. In the natural theme, 'clean' was the most important fabric attribute and 'textured' and 'worn' were important fabric attributes in the primitive theme. In the imitated natural theme, 'wet' fabric attribute was preferred. In the new natural theme, 'lightweight' were preferred. The results of this study empirically demonstrated that abstract and ambiguous trend terms can be interpreted with a physical, substantial, and feasible attributes that fabric practitioners can easily understand.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.174-182
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• 2000

We prepared natural indigo/calcium hydroxide complex powder from tinctoria's leaf, according to the demand of developing new dyeing technique of natural fibre with natural indigo. FT- IR and UV/Visible spectra were operated to find the dyeing properties of synthetic indigo and natural indigo powder. Cotton, flax and silk fabrics were dyed with different pH, dye concentration and dyeing time. The colour yield of indigo dye was quite sensitive to dye bath pH and fabric. In synthetic indigo, the highest K/S value of dyed silk fabric was shown at near pH 9.0, and which of flax and cotton fabric were shown at pH 11.0. In other hand, in the case of natural indigo complex powder, the highest K/S value of dyed silk fabric was shown at near pH 8.0, and which of flax and cotton fabric were shown at pH 9.5∼pH 10. Mercerized cotton fabric dyed with natural indigo powder has a little antimicrobial activity.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.86-98
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• 2009

The fashion industry saw the emergence of environment-friendly and natural fabric materials recently. The naturalism trend has established sectors in the textile and fashion industry also. Ramie and hemp have long been favored fabric materials in Korea especially for summer. The hand-related mechanical/physical properties of the fabric specimens were analyzed using a fabric objective measurement system, KES(Kawabata Evaluation System). Subjective evaluation was also implemented based on a series of selected adjectives. Studies on natural dyeing methods are important since the establishment of scientific approach is needed in terms of environment and human safety along with the reproduction of traditional natural dyeing methods. In this study, linen, ramie, hemp, and cotton/polyester/linen union fabric specimens were used for the natural dyeing using Rubia akane Nakai with the mordant of gallnut. ${\Delta}E$ values of dyed fabric specimens, mordanted and dyed once using Rubia akane Nakai, increased significantly compared to those of repeatedly dyed fabric specimens without mordanting.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.431-440
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to investigate the feasibility of applying the chitosan for a natural mordant. The chitosan, a natural chelate macromolecule, is acquired from the crustacean. Investigation was focused on the change of the dyeability according to the chitosan treatment based on the Caesalpinia sappan and the color change of the dyed fabric according to the application of heavy metal mordant. The change of air permeability of the fabric with the dyeing condition was also investigated systematically. The effect of dyeing with/without mordant on the air permeability of the fabric after the chitosan treatment. It seems that the increase in the dye-uptake is attributable to the fact that chitosan forms a complex with the Caesalpinia sappan and Al during mordant dyeing of cotton fabric. For nylon fabric, the darkest color was achieved on the occasion of non-mordant dyeing of the fabric. The mordant treatment or chitosan treatment, however, reduced the dyeability. While the dyed nylon fabric could maintain the same air permeability as the grey nylon fabric, the cotton fabric lowered the air permeability after dyeing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.629-638
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• 2001

This study was intended to identify the desired image and fabric preference of woman college student for apparel and the relationship between these variables. Data were collected by questionnaire distributed to 260 woman college students through August to September of 2000. After eliminating incomplete questionnaires, 236 were analyzed. The most desired image was neat, and the most preferred fabric was natural fiber textile in fiber contents and light and soft in fabric sensation. The avoided image was masculine, and the negative sensation was heaviness. As a result of factor analysis, 7 factors -cute, intellectual, animate, neat, mature, sporty, sexy- were determined in image. And 8 factors -soft, durable, flat, rigid, light, bulky, heavy, pliable- were determined in fabric sensation. These factors explained large percentage of variance respectively. Multidimensional scaling was employed to analyze the relationship between desired image and fabric preference. Two dimensions were accepted to interpret the relationship. One of the results showed the closeness among the natural fiber textile, lightness, durability and natural image. And the short distance among the blended textile, elasticity, warmness and sporty image was presented.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.771-778
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• 2008

The natural dyeing of cotton fabric with Perilla frutescens var. acuta extract was investigated. The proper extraction temperature and time were $100^{\circ}C$ and 120 minutes. The proper temperature, time and colorant powder concentration for the dyeing of cotton fabric with Perilla frutescens var. acuta powder were $90^{\circ}C$, 60 minutes and 15%(o.w.b.), respectively. In various mordanted methods, the K/S values of simultaneous-mordanted methods were higher than those of pre-and post-mordanted methods. And the Cu-and Fe mordant showed higher K/S values than those of other mordants. Light colorfasness of mordanted cotton fabric was poor, but the other colorfasnesses were shown to be good. The cotton fabric mordanted with Cu mordant was showed effective bacterial reduction.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.979-986
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeability, and the hand of soybean/cotton blended fabric after dyeing with natural and synthetic dyes. Soybean/cotton blended fabrics dyed with extracted solution from turmeric, sappan wood, gardenia and synthetic dyes(weak-acid dyes, reactive dyes, direct dyes). The hand value of soybean/cotton blended fabrics dyed with 6 different dyes was measured using Kawabata Evaluation System. The results are as follows; 1. The K/S value of the soybean/cotton blended fabric dyed with sappan wood extracts was the highest. 2. The color fastness of the soybean/cotton blended fabric dyed with reactive dyes was excellent. The fastness to the light of the same fabric was much better than the other fabrics. 3. Linearity of load-extension and tensile energy of the soybean/cotton blended fabric dyed with sappan wood extracts showed very high. Shear stiffness of the soybean/cotton blended fabric dyed with weak-acid dyes was much higher than that of fabric of dyed with reactive dyes. Bending property of the fabrics dyed with natural colorants(sappan wood, gardenia) showed very high, but that the fabric dyed with reactive dyes was very poor. 4. In the primary hand value, stiffness and anti-drape stiffness of the fabric dyed with weak-acid dyes showed the highest. Fullness and softness of the fabric dyed with weak-acid dyes showed very low.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.2 s.161
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• pp.217-224
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• 2007

This paper investigated spring/summer fabric trends of women's and analyzed the correlation between the fabric trends and finishing for 10 years (1995 S/S-2004 S/S). Fabric trend terms were selected from 5 fashion journals and were grouped by hierarchical cluster analysis using SPSS 12.0 statistical package. Also, finishing terms were selected and analyzed by frequency. The results showed that 13 representative fabric trend terms were clean, functional, lustrous, compact, rubbery, comfortable, chic, romantic, decorative, natural, fluid, textured, and ethnic trend. In terms of fabric finishing, 12 representative finishing were selected such as coating, calendaring, wrinkle finishing, decorative finishing, quilting, and washing. Finally, in respect of the analysis of fabric trends and finishing, washing and embroidery were used to represent ethnic trends and textured fabric was closely correlated wrinkle and decorative finishing. Fluid fabrics were expressed via wrinkle and coating and washing and wrinkle were used for natural feeling. Decorative fabric was expressed by embroidery and coating and decorative finishing were frequently used to show romantic and chic fabric. Also comfortable fabrics were correlated with easy care and rubbery, compact, lustrous, and clean fabrics were correlated with coating.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.861-871
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• 2014

This study explored applicability of natural dyeing and functional property of base paper using paper yarn and fabrics with green laver extracts. As a result of measuring dyeability and functional property of cotton, silk, and a blended fabric of cotton/mulberry, $60^{\circ}C$ and 40 minutes was the optimal dyeing condition for the cotton fabric under an alkali condition; $50^{\circ}C$ and 60 minutes for the silk fabric; $60^{\circ}C$ and 50 minutes for the blended fabric of cotton/mulberry. As a result of measuring the color fastness after dyeing cotton, silk and the blended fabric of cotton/mulberry, fastness to washing, water, rubbing, dry cleaning and light was superior. In terms of functional property, the silk and the blended fabric of cotton/mulberry were superior concerning antimicrobial properties of the fabric dyed with green laver extracts while the cotton fabric showed 90% or over. Regarding deodorization, the blended fabric of cotton/mulberry was the most superior. All the fabrics were harmless to the human body as they had heavy metal content below the standard. Considering the research results comprehensively, the green laver extracts possibly has enough applicability and functional property as a natural dyes. Moreover, it has potential to be developed new eco-friendly fashion materials.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.304-310
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• 2012

The natural dyeing of silk fabric with Scutellaria baicalensis extract was investigated. The proper colorant concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and pH for the dyeing of silk fabric with Scutellaria baicalensis extract were 90% v/v, $90^{\circ}C$, 60 minutes and pH 3, respectively. In various mordanted methods, the K/S values of mordanted methods were higher than those of unmordanted methods. Light colorfastness and washing colorfastness of Fe mordanted silk fabric was improved by mordanting. The antibacterial properties of dyed and mordanted silk fabric showed a high reduction rate, and Scutellaria baicalensis extract was showed effective bacterial reduction.