• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제36권1호
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• pp.41-45
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• 2010

최근 불용성의 결정성 수산화 왁스, 불용성의 결정성 계면활성제 구조, 캡슐 입자, 스멕타이트 점토를 이용하여 고함량의 친유성 보습제를 함유할 수 있는 유화제형 바디클렌징 시스템이 개발되었다. 본 논문에서는 유화제형 바디클렌징 시스템에서 바세린, 트리글리세라이드와 같은 다양한 밀폐제의 보습효과를 연구하였다. 본 설험결과에 따르면, 유화제형 바디클렌저에서 바세린이 트리글리세라이드에 비하여 보습력이 떨어지는 것을 알 수 있었다. 로션, 크림과 같은 "바르는" 제형에서는 바세린이 최고의 보습력을 가지지만 본 연구의 "씻어내는" 유화바디클렌정 제형에서는 다른 결과가 나타났다. 고함량의 음이온 양성이온 계면활성제가 함유된 유화제형 바디클렌징시스템에서, 바세린은 트리글리세라이드에 비해 용해도가 커서, 헴굼과정에서 피부로의 부착량이 떨어짐으로 인해, 보습력이 부족함을 밝혀내었다.

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• 제38권2호
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• pp.87-92
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• 2008

Wood vinegar is well known as a softening agent affecting on the stratum corneum that is easy to penetrate into the skin. In this study, we prepared mixed ursolic acid hydrogel with wood vinegar(1, 2, 5%) as a penetration enhancer. The accumulation of ursolic acid in the skin from hydrogels was evaluated in vitro hairless mouse skin and skin moisturizing effect of them was evaluated using the corneometer and the tewermeter. And the role of stratum corneum as a protective barrier was evaluated as well. The hydrogels were retained about 40% of water retention capacity 2hrs and had better effect on the stripped skin than full-thickness skin. The accumulation of ursolic acid through stripped skin from hydrogels with wood vinegar was not change compared to normal skin, which indicated the action site of wood vinegar and the accumulation site of ursolic acid would be stratum corneum. From these result, we could find wood vinegar seems to be a good enhancer for active materials with anti-wrinkle and anti aging effect such as ursolic acid, and can be a developed topical delivery system maintaining excellent water retention capacity.

• 한국약용작물학회지
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• 제28권4호
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• pp.260-275
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• 2020

Background: We investigated the antioxidant, anti-wrinkles, whitening, and moisturizing properties and amounts of phenolic compounds of ethanol extracts from flowers of 10 resource plants from Namwon and Mt. Jiri., Korea. Methods and Results: We measured antioxidant efficacy based on the total polyphenol, and total flavonoid content, and the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay. We evaluated the inhibitory effect on melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity for the whitening effect. Furthermore, we analyzed the elastase and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) inhibition activity for anti-wrinkle capacity. To evaluate the moisturizing effect, we examined hyaluronan synthase (HAS) mRNA expression. In addition, the 19 phenolic compounds were detected using high performace liquid chromatography (HPLC). Among the 10 flowers, the antioxidant effect was high in the order of Rosa multiflora, Nelumbo nucifera, and Elsholtzia splendens. Whitening effect was high in the order of N. nucifera, R. multiflora, and Dendranthema zawadskii. As for the anti-wrinkle property, N. nucifera was the most effective followed by R. multiflora. Taraxacum coreanum was the best for moisturizing effect, followed by D. zawadskii, and E. splendens. Seven phenolic compounds were detected in the extracts of the 10 flowers. Conclusions: Overall, the extracts of five flowers extracts showed strong potential as antioxidant, whitening, anti-wrinkle, and moisturizing functional cosmetic agents.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제38권3호
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• pp.197-200
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• 2012

보습제 베이스를 립스틱에 사용하여 보습효과가 우수한 제품개발에 응용하고자 DSC에 의한 결합수형성능, 수분보유능을 고찰하였다. 보습제 베이스를 배제한 견본에서 결합수 형성능은 5.12 %임을 알았다. 보습제 베이스함량에 따른 결합수형성능을 측정한 결과 보습제 베이스 함량이 증가함에 따라 결합수 형성능이 비례적으로 증가함을 DSC측정결과 알았다. 한편 DSC측정결과와 in vitro 수분보유능 측정법을 비교 실험한 결과 유사한 경향을 나타냄을 알 수 있었다. 따라서 DSC에 의한 결합수 형성능 측정법은 앞으로 립스틱 제품의 보습효과를 예측 하는데 유용한 방법으로 생각되었다.

• The Korean Journal of Physiology and Pharmacology
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.543-547
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• 2015

We investigated the combined moisturizing effect of liposomal serine and a cosmeceutical base selected in this study. Serine is a major amino acid consisting of natural moisturizing factors and keratin, and the hydroxyl group of serine can actively interact with water molecules. Therefore, we hypothesized that serine efficiently delivered to the stratum corneum (SC) of the skin would enhance the moisturizing capability of the skin. We prepared four different cosmeceutical bases (hydrogel, oil-in-water (O/W) essence, O/W cream, and water-in-oil (W/O) cream); their moisturizing abilities were then assessed using a $Corneometer^{(R)}$. The hydrogel was selected as the optimum base for skin moisturization based on the area under the moisture content change-time curves (AUMCC) values used as a parameter for the water hold capacity of the skin. Liposomal serine prepared by a reverse-phase evaporation method was then incorporated in the hydrogel. The liposomal serine-incorporated hydrogel (serine level=1%) showed an approximately 1.62~1.77 times greater moisturizing effect on the skin than those of hydrogel, hydrogel with serine (1%), and hydrogel with blank liposome. However, the AUMCC values were not dependent on the level of serine in liposomal serine-loaded hydrogels. Together, the delivery of serine to the SC of the skin is a promising strategy for moisturizing the skin. This study is expected to be an important step in developing highly effective moisturizing cosmeceutical products.

• 대한예방한의학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.109-123
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• 2018

Purpose : In this study, we intended to observe the anti-wrinkle and moisturizing effects of dried pomegranate juice concentration powder (PCP) using in vitro test. Materials and methods : Antioxidant effects of PCP were determined by free radical scavenging capacity (DPPH assay) and the cytotoxicity of PCP was examined in human keratinocyte (HaCaT) and human primary dermal fibroblast-neonatal (HDF) cells. To investigate the moisturizing effect of PCP, hyaluronan synthesis was examined in HaCaT cells. Activity of procollagen production were assessed in HDF cells and elastase inhibition properties of PCP were evaluated in cell free condition, to determine their anti-wrinkle effects. Metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1) activity was also assessed following UVB irradiation, in the current in vitro experiment. Results : No PCP treatment related significant cytotoxic effects were demonstrated against to the both HDF and HaCaT cells. PCP showed favorable free radical scavenging activities in dose-dependent manner. In PCP-treated HaCaT cells, hyaluronan synthesis was non-significantly but markedly increased, and pro-collagen productions were significantly increased in HDF cells, at all three different concentrations (0.25, 0.75 and 1 mg/ml), and elastase inhibitory activities were observed by PCP treatment. A significant decrease in UVB-induced MMP-1 activity was also observed in 1 mg/ml PCP-treated HDF cells as compared to those of UVB-exposed cells. Conclusions : Taken together, these results suggest that PCP has favorable antioxidant, anti-wrinkle and moisturizing effects without meaningful cytotoxicity on HDF and HaCaT cell lines.

• International Journal of Advanced Culture Technology
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.236-242
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• 2020

In this paper, we present the improvement in low moisturizing ability and stability that existing skin softeners have due to the low oil content, by developing skin softener using nanoemulsion of phospholipid liposome, based on the properties of nanoemulsion in cosmetic formulation. In this study, two types of oil; dimethicone (DC 200/6cs) or medium chain triglyceride (MCT), and two kinds of lecithin; unsaturated or saturated were respectively applied to produce nanoemulsion. In the particle size analysis of nanoemulsion, the droplet size of nanoemulsion containing DC200/6cs and unsaturated lecithin was the smallest, and all nanoemulsion showed high stability in the measurement of zeta potential. Therefore, with the smallest particle size and high stability, moisture contents and trans epidermal water loss(TEWL) were measured using the skin softener of DC200/6cs and unsaturated lecithin contained nanoemulsion, and the measurement was compared with the non-oil skin softener and the skin softener with only small amount of oil. The results showed that the moisture content of the skin softener using nanoemulsion increased greatly than other two skin softeners, showing high hydration ability and water retention capacity, and TEWL decreased greatly, therefore preventing the evaporation of moisture from the skin. As a result, the oil content and stability of the skin softener was improved by utilizing nanoemulson based of phospholipid liposome, and it is expected to be used in various ways in cosmetic industry.

• 대한본초학회지
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.133-139
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• 2009

Objectives : This study was designed to investigate the effects of alcoholic fermentation extract from ovary and rind of pear on human skin. Methods : We investigated the effects of samples on human skin in terms of clinical trial. 32 of healthy volunteers, who lived in mokpo participated in clinical trial. Effects of sample on hygroscopicity and water-holding capacity were investigated. Sebum, moisture, scabrousness and desquamation were also investigated. Facial massages were conducted 8 times in each volunteers. Results : Single treatment group showed elevated levels of hygroscopicity (Normal : 106.4$\pm$2.1%, vs Pear : 114.1$\pm$6.2) and water-holding capacity (Normal : 87.1$\pm$4.4%, vs Pear : 96.2$\pm$1.3) on forearm of 16 volunteers respectively. In addition, massage group using sample showed elevated moisture (Control : 3.8$\pm$5.8%, vs Sample : 15.2$\pm$4.7%) and lowered scabrousness levels (Control : -12.3$\pm$4.4%, vs Sample : -22.0$\pm$5.2%) significantly. However, the levels of sebum did not affected by sample. Conclusions : These result suggest that alcoholic fermentation extract from ovary and rind of pear has moisturizing effect on human skin.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제38권1호
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• pp.75-82
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• 2012

천연보습인자(NMF, natural moisturizing factor)는 정상 피부 내의 각질층에 존재하는 수용성, 친수성 성분을 총칭하는 말로 외부로부터 수분을 흡수하고 각질층의 수분보유능을 증가시키며 피부가 건조해지는 것을 방지하여 피부의 유연성과 가수성을 유지하는 기능을 한다. NMF는 주로 아미노산과 아미노산의 대사산물로 구성되며 이들은 필라그린(filaggrin)이 분해되면서 생성된다. 본 연구에서는 피부 각질층의 22종의 개별 아미노산의 함량분석을 통하여 피부보습능과 개개의 아미노산과의 상관관계를 연구하였다. 15명의 건강한 지원자들의 전박과 이마로부터 tape stripping한 각질 시료 중 22종의 아미노산 함량을 UPLC-PDA를 이용하여 동시 분석하였다. 그 결과 각질 표면보다는 안쪽에서의 아미노산들의 함량이 높음을 확인하였다. 또한 신체 부위별 비교에서 전박이 이마에 비해 아미노산 함량이 1.5배 정도 높음을 확인하였다. 전박부위의 아미노산 총 함량과 보습능(TEWL)과의 상관 관계분석을 통해서는 보습능이 클수록 총아미노산 함량이 높은 것으로 확인되었으며 특히 Ser, Glu, Gly, Ala 및 Thr은 각질 내 존재하는 주요 아미노산 성분으로 보습에 긍정적인 영향을 주는 성분으로 확인되었다. 이상의 결과로써 NMF의 주성분인 아미노산의 함량은 각질 생리기능과 밀접한 관련을 가지고 있음을 확인할 수 있었으며 본 연구를 통해 얻은 각질층의 아미노산의 통합적인 분석법은 보습, 노화, 미백, 피부 염증질환 등 다양한 피부 상태와 아미노산류들의 변화와의 관계를 깊이 이해하고 피부 기능과 관련된 새로운 분자적 타겟을 발굴하고 증명하는데 기초적인 방법으로써 사용될 수 있을 것으로 사료된다.

• 한국응용과학기술학회지
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• 제34권4호
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• pp.727-736
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• 2017

본 연구에서는 임상시험의 대체시험법으로 시편을 이용한 화장품의 보습능 평가기법을 연구하였다. 4종의 시편(일본떡, 가래떡, 밀가루, 한천)에 대한 립 메이크업 제품의 발림성, 표면의 건조 특성, 수분손실율 등을 비교 평가하였다. 또한, 10종의 립 메이크업 제품(립스틱 5종, 립밤 3종, 립글로스 2종)을 대상으로 시편을 사용한 수분손실율과 임상평가를 통한 경피수분손실량을 분석하고 이들의 상관 관계를 조사하였다. 시편의 수분손실율은 한천 > 가래떡 > 일본떡 > 밀가루 순으로 한천시편의 수분 손실율(수분증발 민감도)이 가장 우수하였다. 또한, 시편소재 중 한천시편이 발림성, 표면 균열, 원료 수급 등의 측면에서 가장 적합하였다. 한천시편은 볼록하고 매끄러운 표면의 시편 제조가 가능한 열 전달이 낮은 플라스틱재질의 용기가 적합하였다. 한천시편을 이용한 립메이크업 제품군에 대한 수분손실율(보습능)과 임상시험법(경피수분손실)과 강한 상관관계를 보였다. 이러한 결과들은 본 연구에서 제안한 한천 시편을 이용한 보습능 평가 기법이 유용한 대체시험법 중 하나로 활용 가능함을 의미한다.