• 보존과학회지
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• 제34권5호
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• pp.319-331
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• 2018

국립현대미술관 소장품인 '산수'는 1940년에 제작된 6폭 구성의 병풍이다. 10대가로 불리던 서화가 6명이 제작에 참여한 합작품으로 소석 강진구 선생의 회갑을 축하하기 위한 축수의 목적으로 제작되었다. 과거 수리된 부분이 확인되었음에도 불구하고 병풍틀의 뒤틀림, 습기얼룩 및 오염 등 보존상태가 양호하지 않아 장기적 보존 및 전시활용을 위해 보존처리가 진행되었다. 또한 재질특성을 확인하고자 제작에 사용된 직물섬유, 종이섬유, 안료에 대한 과학적 조사와 분석을 실시하였다. 분석 결과, 화본 및 회장비단에 사용된 직물섬유는 면, 견 등의 천연섬유와 함께 합성섬유가 사용되었음을 확인할 수 있었다. 병풍 속틀에 사용된 종이의 경우 닥나무 인피섬유, 초본류, 침엽수 섬유 등 다양한 수종이 관찰되었다. 안료분석 결과, 모든 작품의 바탕층에서 Calcite가 확인되었고, 색상별 일부 착색안료는 작가에 따라 차이를 보였다.

• 복식
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• 제60권5호
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• pp.19-34
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• 2010

This study aims to examine associationistic psychology and psychological operation associated with each color image, then to study the relation between particular colors used in paintings produced by Gogh and Klimt in different times and these painters' psychology in a bid to explore the meaning and role of psychological operation of colors. The findings of the study indicated that red and blue colors represent mainly negative images, while yellow and orange colors represent mainly positive images and psychologies. Specifically, in the case of Gogh, red expresses anxiety, a negative image, yellow symbolizes passion, a major positive image of emotional liberation, dark and thick green and the green involving blue symbolize negative images, emptiness and despair, and blue represents negative images of internal desire conflicts, and screaming. Also, purple used together with white represents anxiety and depression. In the case of Klimt, red represents negative images of anger toward mother and suppressed energy, yellow, an alternative to gold color, symbolizes the positive image of hope, passion, desire and eroticism, the arrangement of strong gold and orange colors represents a color of psychological healing more than a color of hope. As such, colors used in paintings produced by modern Western painters express the physiological conditions, psychological feeling and emotion in life, at the time when the artists produced such works. It was found that colors are yet another language of expressing emotions, and symbolize the psychologies of the artists, indicating that colors have something to do with the painters' experience and emotional impulses.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.395-413
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• 1994

Costume is mirror of diverse life styles and attitudes in human life. It has a meaning beyond "clothing" . Fashion illlustration is to express these costumes with a picture. So, it can be said that it is a ′mirror of costumes′ in historical side. The purpose of this study is to find the meaning of fashion illustration of 17th century, which called its first one and to look into its characteristics and costumes of 17th century respotlighting fashion illustrators and painters related with fashion illustration in those days. This study is based on Western Europe by literatures. The fashion illustration in 17th century designed by painters and fashion illustrators. They are Wenceslaus Hollar, Abraham Bosse, Jacques Callot, Jean de st Jean, N. Bonar, A. Trouvain, A. Arnoult in France and so on. The characteristics of fashion illustration in 17th century are as follows : 1. There was a quickening of modern civil consciousness in 17th century. As the subject of costume culture moved from noble class to the working class which began to have a free, the fashion illustration changed to the direction of informing their social class and job. 2. The fashion illustrations of 17th century showed storng realism which was a base of modern picture. 3. The most of them showed costume plates. It was not to transmit adding intended forecast but to describe sincerely in costumes′ record. However, the fashion illustration since the middle of 17th century was designed considering fashion. 4. It could be said that the fashion illustration of 17th century was the forest one of today. It was expressed by Wenceslaus Hollar′s ones. And it is found in his suggestion of popular costumes before and behind and delicate description like accessories. 5. They were transmitted by fashion magazines internationally. Le Mercure Galant, which printed mode plates in 1678, was the first modern fashion magazine aiming at general readers. The fashion illustration of 17th century can divide into ones for court, for working classes, costume plates. The fashion illustrations for court designed by court painters. There were court costumes of early time, spanish Mode and of lately time, French Court Culture. They had baroque elements with a bunddle of ribbons and race decoration. On the other hand, the fashion iooustrations for working class were under the influence on Netherlands styles. They were designed for the purpose of god function and much use. That′s why was under the influence of puritanical life creed. In this situation, the costume plates directed the fashion in those days. At that time, they were supplied widely and it amy be an attempt of popularization. The fashion illustrations of 17th century appeared that they had transmissible character and artistics expression. On the basis of them, we can look into the fashion illustrations of today.

• 복식
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• 제22권
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• pp.5-22
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• 1994

This study was intended to analyze the con-cept of unconsciousness of Surrealism on the fabric of modern fashion. Surrealism had been searching for a new way of confronting a social and artistic en-vironment that was stifling and repugnant to them. Especially the surrealistic methodology was changed into various methods of surreal-istic painters, They explored the world of subconsciousness of uncosciousness in the world of human being. The highly developed material civilization resulted in human alienations environmental disruption. By this fact human being of the 20th century was sought a philosophical and artistic value to overcome social disease. That is their search for spiritual world was interested in surrealist's psychoanalytical method. The fashion in the 20th century is changing rapidly for the new century to come. Under such circumstances as these modern fashion is attempted to pursue new innovative and in-dividual ideas. recently the mental images through Surrealism was represented in the for-mative feature of modern fashion. To study the concept of unconsciousness of Surrealism on the fabric of modern fashion I selected and examined artistic books and fashion magazines. As a result of this review I found that some fabrics used in modern fashion are printed in a free shapes without any meaning or form.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.197-207
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• 1992

Expressionism, is as diverse as the artists invo)ved, in a very broad sense two main tendencies may be noted. The first is that of the Action painters, concerned in different ways with the gesture of the brush and the texture of the paint. It included such major artists as Arshile Gorky, Jackson Pollock, Willem De Keening, and Franz Kline. The other group consisted of the Color Field painters, concerned with the statement of an abstract sign or tranquil image in terms of a large, unified color shape or area. Here must be included Mark Rothko, Barnett Newman, Ad Rdinhardt, as well as, to a degree, Adolph Gottlieb, Robert Motherwell, and Clyf(ord Still. In this paper, 1 selected two artists Arshile Gorky and Jackson Pollock independent charac-teristics and studied the influence of their Action painting on the fabrics of modern fashion. However, it should be noted it was never the intention of the critic Harold Rosenberg, in coining this term, to imply that Action painting was a kind of athletic exercise. Nor is it true that the furious and seemingly haphazard scattering of the paint involved a completely uncontrolled, intuitive act. There is no question that, in the paintings of Jackson Pollock, Arshile Gorky and many of the other Abstract Expressionists, the element of intuition or the accidental plays a large and deliberate part; this was indeed one of the principal contributions of Abstract Expressionism which had found its own inspiration in surrealism's 'psychic automaton'. However, nothing that an experienced and accomplished artist does can be completely accidental. Aside from their intrinsic quality, the spun-out skeins of poured pigments contributed other elements that changed the course of modern painting. There was the concept of the all-over painting, the painting seemingly without beginning or end, extending to the very limits of the canvas and implying an extension even beyond. The feeling of absorption or participation is heightened by the ambiguity of the picture space. The colors and lines, although never punctur-ing deep perspective holes in the surface, still create an illusion of continuous movement, a billowing, a surging back and forth, within a limited depth. To study the influence of Abstract Expressionism on the fabric of modern fashion, 1 selected and examined four fashion magazines: Collezioni published in France, Bazaar in Italy, Gap in Japan and Vogue in the U.S.a. froim January 1989 to June 1991. As a result of this review I found that some fabrics used in modern clothing are printed in a dripping, pouring and splashing style without any meaning or form. Slides included in the presentation show that modern fabrics which are printed in such a style were influenced by Abstract Expressionism. The slides also show that these abstract prints are well suited to modern fashion design.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.97-110
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• 1992

Impressionism was the epoch in art which marked the beginning of modern times. For the relatively short period of twenty years, from the middle of the 19th century until approximately 1875, Impressionism was style forming. Then the dissolving tendencies became increasingly stronger A number of artists remained true to the style, some of them lifelong, well into the 20th century. Other, after years of experimenting with other styles, returned to their Impres- sionistic beginnings. However, they were individual personalities with their own artistic hand. Quite a few painters entered the circle of Impressionism after 1875 & used the perceptions of this art in their later works. Especially, Impressionism's light & color affected both 20th's painting & other sorts of art. From the fashion point of view, the influence of Impressionism affected a great deal on the 20th than 19th fashion. As a result the influence of Impressionism on Modern Fashion was as follow: 1. The soft, pretty pastel color was illuminated Modern Fashion. 2. Impressionism affected on the elegance, feminity of design of Modern Fashion

• 문화기술의 융합
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.303-308
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• 2021

본고는 존 러스킨의 미학이론에서 '본다는 것'이 어떤 의미인지를 논한다. 러스킨에게 '본다는 것'은 도덕적 통찰력을 규정하는 핵심적 열쇠이다. 그렇기에 러스킨의 도덕적 사유에서 '보기'의 배움과 자연에서의 '보기'의 기쁨이 서로 어떻게 관계를 맺는지 살펴보기 위하여, 『현대 화가들』을 비롯하여 「할키온 이야기」, 「빛의 과학에 관하여」, 『프로세르피나』, 『프레테리타』 등 러스킨의 주요 강연과 텍스트들을 분석한다. 본론의 제1절에서는 러스킨의 도덕적 생태학의 구성요소인 기쁨, 사상, 보기의 상호 관련성을 규명하고, 이어서 제2절에서는 인간 존재의 도덕적 지각으로서의 보기 개념이 형성되는 이론적 논리를 추적한다. 그리고 제3절에서는 자연과 신의 신비를 향한 배움으로서의 보기 개념을 이루는 보기의 방식과 기쁨의 미적 체험 사이의 조응을 논증한다. 이러한 이론적 검토 과정에 따라, 마지막으로 본고는 존 러스킨의 '본다는 것'은 인간-자연-신의 위계적 구성의 우주에서 발생하는 도덕적 지각의 발전과 상응하는 생태적 감수성의 형성 요소임을 주장한다.

• 한국디지털건축인테리어학회논문집
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.9-14
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to find out organizing strategy of de-composition works in modern plastic arts. Through investigating the development process of De Stijl painters and Rietveld's early works and analyzing the composition and disposition type of elements such as point, line, plane, color in the selected works, we can draw some conclusions. First, Rietveld pursues the dissolution of traditional volume and the de-composition of elements as Mondrian does through crossing-connection of three listels with quadrangular section. Second, Rietveld reorganized de-composition elements with detached lines and color planes. Third, Rietveld experimented possibility of new plastic space through displacing elements, opening space, making anti-gravity space.

• 복식
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• 제54권5호
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• pp.155-166
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• 2004

OP-Art was not appreciated by painters and art critics. and according1y has been forgotten in art history. But recently Op-Art is revitalized in fashion and is in its palmy days. This study intends to re-assess the value of Op-Art, by reviewing its influence on fashion design in the post-modern society To this purpose, conceptual characteristics of Op-Art was analyzed. And then, on the bases of these characteristics, the figural characteristics and the meaning of Op-Art in fashion design of post-modern society was re-explained. Op-Art is characterized as an art of flatness of picture plane which uses repetition of simple forms and colors. It is also based on trick of visual perception. Finally. it creates an impression which is flickering or vibrating by means of optical illusion. These characteristics give birth to some features such as simplicity. anonymity and mobility in the Op-Art fashion. The meanings of Op-Art in fashion design in post-modern society are as follows. First, repetition of simple units employed in Op-Art produces feeling of simplicity. which makes the Op-Art fashion works perceived as polysemy. In other words, the feeling of simplicity can be interpreted In diverse perspectives within the social context of our society. The material civilization and technology civilization, which causes the alienation and standardization of man. can be the backgrounds of the Op-Art fashion. Second, Op-Art is an art based on perspectives of spectators. Anonymity in the Op-Art fashion enhances participation of spectators. which gives Op-Art a sense of affinity. Third, through the feeling of mobility created by optical illusion techniques. the Op-Art fashion expresses the opposition to the ideal body image made by power group. In post-modern society, Op-Art in fashion gives new meaning to art. Op-Art in fashion proposes new roles of artist and spectators, and new concepts of art related with roles of human beings. Through general sensibility of men, Op-art in fashion can express new recognition of the post-modern society.

• 미술이론과 현장
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• 제5호
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• pp.217-229
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• 2007

Many historical research and facet about modern art in Indonesia which formulating background of contemporary Indonesian Art. Indonesian art critic Sanento Yuliman states that Modern art has been rapidly developing in Indonesia since the Indonesian Independence in 1945. Modern Art is a part of the super culture of the Indonesian metropolitan and is closely related to the contact between the Indonesian and Western Cultures. Its birth was part of the nationalism project, when the Indonesian people consists of various ethnics were determined to become a new nation, the Indonesian nation, and they wished for a new culture, and therefore, a new art. The period 1960s, which was the beginning of the creation and development of the painters and the painters associations, was the first stage of the development of modern art in Indonesia. The second stage showed the important role of the higher education institutes for art. These institutes have developed since the 1950s and in the 1970s they were the main education institutes for painters and other artists. The artists awareness of the medium, forms or the organization of shapes were encouraged more intensely and these encouraged the exploring and experimental attitudes. Meanwhile, the information about the world's modern art, particularly Western Art; was widely and rapidly spread. The 1960s and 1970s were marked by the development of various abstractions and abstract art and the great number of explorations in various new media, like the experiment with collage, assemblage, mixed media. The works of the Neo Art Movement-group in the second half of the 1970s and in the 1980s shows environmental art and installations, influenced by the elements of popular art, from the commercial world and mass media, as well as the involvement of art in the social and environmental affairs. The issues about the environment, frequently launched by the intellectuals in the period of economic development starting in the 1970s, echoed among the artists, and they were widened in the social, art and cultural circles. The Indonesian economic development following the important change in the 1970s has caused a change in the life of the middle and upper class society, as has the change in various aspects of a big city, particularly Jakarta. The new genre emerged in 1975 which indicates contemporary art in Indonesia, when a group of young artists organized a movement, which was widely known as the Indonesian New Art Movement. This movement criticized international style, universalism and the long standing debate on an east-west-dichotomy. As far as the actual practice of the arts was concerned the movement criticized the domination of the art of painting and saw this as a sign of stagnation in Indonesian art development. Based on this criticism 'the movement' introduced ready-mades and installations (Jim Supangkat). Takes almost two decades that the New Art Movement activists were establishing Indonesian Installation art genre as contemporary paradigm and influenced the 1980's gene ration like, FX Harsono, Dadang Christanto, Arahmaiani, Tisna Sanjaya, Diyanto, Andarmanik, entering the 1990's decade as "rebellion period" ; reject towards established aesthetic mainstream i.e. painting, sculpture, graphic art which are insufficient to express "new language" and artistic needs especially to mediate social politic and cultural situation. Installation Art which contains open possibilities of creation become a vehicle for aesthetic establishment rejection and social politics stagnant expression in 1990s. Installation art accommodates two major field; first, the rejection of aesthetic establishment has a consequences an artists quest for medium; deconstruction models and cross disciplines into multi and intermedia i.e. performance, music, video etc. Second aspect is artists' social politic intention for changes, both conclude as characteristics of Indonesian Installation Art and establishing the freedom of expression in contemporary Indonesian Art until today.