• Title/Summary/Keyword: Missoni

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A Study on the Characteristics of Knitwear Fashion Design: With a focus on Missoni, Sonia Rykiel, Azzedine Alaia

  • Chun, Hei Jung;Park, Jae Min
    • International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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    • v.13 no.1
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    • pp.23-34
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    • 2013
  • The purpose of this study is to better understand the development and characteristics of knitwear fashion design by examining the transformation process of the modern knits. The subjects of the study are Missoni, Sonia Rykiel, and Azzedine Alaia, designers who are world-renowned knit designers, and the expressive techniques in their designs will be evaluated. The study also intends to analyze the aesthetic value of each designer's style through their product's silhouette, colors, and knitting techniques. On the basis of the analysis, we hope to research the factors in the designing process that will allow knits, which were made for practical purposes, to be valued as a luxury fashion item, and with the results, show the potential for knits in expanding its domain in fashion to become a more luxurious, creative fashion item. The characteristic comparison of the designers is as follows: First, in the case of colors, Missoni shows its distinct identity through a balance of splashy colors as well as nature-inspired color composition and balance. And, only with color use, is also able to express perspective, form composition, and rhythm. Sonia Rykiel designs are composed of black backgrounds with strong primary colors that are contrasted with one-point or stripes to express a light, urban image. Alaia emphasizes femininity by the use of black and white colors, which show modernity, in combination with neutral skin-toned colors, such as beige and gray. So, in other words, Missoni and Sonia Rykiel mixed colors for visual interconnectivity, while Alaia expressed femininity through the use of an achromatic color. Second, in the case of knitting techniques, Missoni uses the jacquard technique to make complex patterns that show balance of colors and patterns such as zigzag, stripe, geometries, and titan check, which are geometric, abstract, and symmetric. Sonia Rykiel who uses stripes as her trademark, most often utilizes the intarsia technique, which is expressed through one-point. Alaia combines diverse techniques, such as the Skashi weaving, by using computerized knitting. Third, as for silhouettes, Missoni eliminated exaggerated details in order to emphasize the flashy colors and delicate patterns and weavings of its designs, and this resulted in simplistic and relaxed silhouettes. Sonia Rykiel took advantage of the elasticity that the knit offers to get a tight silhouette, and in turn, emphasized the female sensuality. Alaia used curvilinear cuts that emphasized the womanly curves and gained an image considered soft and feminine.

Main Fashion Brands Subject to Investigation by the Textile Firms for the Purpose of the Development of New Textiles (국내 소재업체의 패션정보 수집 대상 선호 브랜드에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Eun-Oak
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.13 no.5 s.58
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    • pp.844-855
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    • 2005
  • The purpose of this paper is to examine which fashion brands are most likely to be investigated by Korean textile firms when they conduct their market trend analyses. The result shows that for the domestic sales, textile firms are most likely to collect and analyze information on the Cheil Textil Co. It is followed by Bean Pole, Chanel, Buberry, Tomboy. For the future domestic sales, textile firms prefers referring foreign fashion brands such as Burberry, ZARA, MaxMara, Missoni, and Chanel. Textile firms majoring exports prefers collecting and analyzing information on D&G followed by Chanel, Gucci, and DKNY. This preference, however, differs when considering exporting areas. Textile firms targeting the French market considers Gucci, followed by Ferragamo, Dior, Louisvuitton. Textile firms targeting the Italian market prefer Chanel, followed by Valentine, ZARA, Gucci, and Armani. Chanel is also top brand for the North American and Japanese markets, and followed by GAP, ZARA, OZOC, Missoni, Munshing Wear. The information content collected and analyzed by textile firms is style, pattern, color, and textile materials for textile firms targeting the domestic sales, while the exporting firms prefer information on color and textile materials proposed and presented by the fashion brands to which they prefer to make reference. The result of this study can be used to effectively and efficiently collect and analyze market information on fashion brands for textile firms majoring the domestic and foreign sales.

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A Study on Textile Pattern Designs with Applied Korean Traditional Patterns - Focused on Optical Patterns - (한국전통문양을 응용한 텍스타일 패턴 디자인 연구 - 옵티컬 패턴(Optical Pattern)을 중심으로 -)

  • Byun, Young-Hee;Chae, Keum-Seok
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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    • v.5 no.1 s.12
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    • pp.87-96
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    • 2007
  • Patterns have their own shapes and characteristics as a symbol in accordance with in what environment they are like a language. Especially our ancestor had wished present values as like riches and honors, longevity and health, love and happiness through all kinds of patterns of animals, plants, the sun, the moon, cloud, water and mountain, and expressed an aesthetic consciousness. Pattern design is important in fashion but it is insufficient in terms of the development of modern patterns based on Korean traditional patterns. Therefore, We need to create new senses and thoughts through the understanding and re-analysis about Korean traditional costume and a study on optical patterns could give an extreme effect without any changes of silhouette. Especially, Emilio Pucci and Missoni have been developing a variety of Pattern designs even though there are different tendencies each other. Consequently it could be a good chance to show Korean images and originality that develope the various textile patterns with applying to Korean traditional patterns based on an analysis of their works.

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Fashion Revolution in the 20th Century - The appearance of knit wear -

  • Choi, Kwang-Don;Geum, Key-Sook
    • International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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    • v.6 no.2
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    • pp.43-54
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    • 2006
  • In the history of fashion, the category of knitted items was traditionally associated with ordinary clothing products like undergarments and socks. However, in a mere century Chanel has changed that idea by bringing into fashion consciousness items such as sports sweaters, jerseys, and suits, and so it has been necessary to upgrade this notion. As the needs of the times and new inventions have an inseparable relationship, knit fashion was also born with a close relationship with the zeitgeist of the time - the feminine movement, the rise of sports fashion and the world war - adapting itself up to the present time through continuous changes. Most brands are elevating knit from a mere decoration into a collection piece in a large number of collections every year. The number of brands that cannot exist without knit is increasing, such as Sonia Rykiel, Missoni, and so on. This essay is written with the purpose to study the birth, growth and future potential of knit items. The first stage concentrates on the age of knit's appearance (1910s-1930s). Contingent upon the collection of further data, this essay will be continued through the second stage (the 1960s - 1970s) and the third stage (after the 1980s).

Study of Stripe Pattern Appeared in Apparel Design - Focusing on Western Women's Fashion after 20th Centuries - (의상(衣裳) 디자인의 줄무늬(Stripe Pattern) 연구(硏究) - 20세기(世紀) 이후(以後) 서양(西洋) 여성(女性) 패션을 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Kim, Ju-Eun;Cho, Kyu-Hwa
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.6 no.4
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    • pp.99-112
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    • 2002
  • The purpose of this study is to find out various types of stripes pattern and to review its' design expression by analysing stripe pattern and visual effect appeared in western women's fashion after 20th centuries. As regards the visual effect of stripe pattern, on the basis of the stripe pattern's direction laid out, we made an investigation of it by classfying it into verticality, horizontality, slant line and mixture of them according to its' gap and thickness. Here are the 4 features of the stripe pattern appeared in modern fashions. The first, graphic variation based on diverse variation and reconstruction and combination between other motives is being onthe rise as a new expression. The second, colorful stripes of Missoni can be exanpled as the trend of diversification of color. The third, as regards the trend of mismatch in pattern, coordination through mismatch can produce experimental and post-modern image. The fourth, as for the expression of draping effect, we find that stripe pattern can maximaze visual effect through draping by inducing visual stimulus, as well as can express human body in a beautiful manner.

A Study on Knit-Wear Design for the Complement of Middle-Aged Women's Figure (중년여성의 체형 결점 보완을 위한 니트웨어의 디자인 연구)

  • Beom, Seo-Hee;Lee, In-Sung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.56 no.8 s.108
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    • pp.15-34
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    • 2006
  • Knit wear was industrialized, diversified, specialized and was made into high-class and it is including knitted cloth and small product for fashion as well as cardigan, sweater, and jacket etc. unlike past recognition only with underwear and inner wear. To consider elasticity to be the best strength of knit wear, middle-aged women that form change is serious are wearing knit wear as clothes for going out, and this may be regarded as clothes action to be conscious of form than vogue. Thus, in this study, this researcher tried to suggest solution scheme through the development of design of knit wear to supplement the form defect of middle-aged women. This researcher tried to develop the design of knit wear to supplement the form defect of middle-aged women, after examining the theoretical background of knit wear, the bodily and mental feature of middle-aged women. Internal and external knit wear brand that middle-aged women prefer as the scheme for solving the problematic form of middle-aged women with knit wear. As the result first, to see the present situation of inland production enterprise of knit wear, almost all the brand companies are concentrating energies on widening age class. Second, middle-aged women become far off from the form which is regarded ideal form in modern society. Third, result that this researcher examined the brand of knit wear of middle-aged women is as follows : MORADO, Cartknit, Escalier. And, in foreign knit wear brand, ST John, Missoni, ESCADA. Fourth, as the result that this researcher did work manufacture for the supplement of form defect of middle-aged women, it has practical and active side, and off-time has high-class and elegant refined beauty.

A Study on the Characteristics of Branded Environments in Hotel Spaces (호텔 공간의 브랜드화 환경 특성 연구)

  • Lee, Hwa-Kyoung;Ahn, Seongmo
    • Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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    • v.23 no.1
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    • pp.143-151
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    • 2014
  • Nowadays, space branding becomes more important since it reflects and synthesizes the diverse experiences of the consumer. The objective of the research is to present the new possibilities that space branding offers by analyzing the brand strategy and the design characteristics of branded hotels, which are being projected as constructed branded environments. By integrating the brand with visible or invisible elements of the hotel, such as unique space planning, service, and consumer experience, a branded hotel can be a good vehicle to reflect fast changing consumer lifestyles and trends; it enables the consumer to experience brands in his or her everyday life, and it conveys the overall image of the brand by considering the consumer's multi-sensual experiences. The study processed with theoretical research which is related to the hotel space and branded environment. Four brands were selected with distinct business area and brand strategy, and studied to analyze the strategy and the characteristics of the branded environment in a branded hotel. In particular, the case study attempted to evaluate the distinctiveness of the branded hotel's spatial design by comparing each brand's representative flagship store with the hotel. As a result, four characteristics of branded environments in branded hotels were identified, namely, strengthen brand image, consistent brand strategy, extend brand perception, spatialize brand experience. Armani emphasizes their consistent brand image by applying similar design methods in both retail stores and hotel spaces. IKEA, in contrast, applies not their design identity but their brand concepts like practicality, efficiency, and low prices. Pantone gives an expanded brand experience by using synesthetic sensual stimulation using their color system. Missoni mixes and composes their patterns and materials in a three-dimensional manner and strengthens design possibilities and spatiality. This study suggests specific design methods to construct a branded environment in a branded hotel and offers new strategic directions for space branding.

Business Application of Convolutional Neural Networks for Apparel Classification Using Runway Image (합성곱 신경망의 비지니스 응용: 런웨이 이미지를 사용한 의류 분류를 중심으로)

  • Seo, Yian;Shin, Kyung-shik
    • Journal of Intelligence and Information Systems
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    • v.24 no.3
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    • pp.1-19
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    • 2018
  • Large amount of data is now available for research and business sectors to extract knowledge from it. This data can be in the form of unstructured data such as audio, text, and image data and can be analyzed by deep learning methodology. Deep learning is now widely used for various estimation, classification, and prediction problems. Especially, fashion business adopts deep learning techniques for apparel recognition, apparel search and retrieval engine, and automatic product recommendation. The core model of these applications is the image classification using Convolutional Neural Networks (CNN). CNN is made up of neurons which learn parameters such as weights while inputs come through and reach outputs. CNN has layer structure which is best suited for image classification as it is comprised of convolutional layer for generating feature maps, pooling layer for reducing the dimensionality of feature maps, and fully-connected layer for classifying the extracted features. However, most of the classification models have been trained using online product image, which is taken under controlled situation such as apparel image itself or professional model wearing apparel. This image may not be an effective way to train the classification model considering the situation when one might want to classify street fashion image or walking image, which is taken in uncontrolled situation and involves people's movement and unexpected pose. Therefore, we propose to train the model with runway apparel image dataset which captures mobility. This will allow the classification model to be trained with far more variable data and enhance the adaptation with diverse query image. To achieve both convergence and generalization of the model, we apply Transfer Learning on our training network. As Transfer Learning in CNN is composed of pre-training and fine-tuning stages, we divide the training step into two. First, we pre-train our architecture with large-scale dataset, ImageNet dataset, which consists of 1.2 million images with 1000 categories including animals, plants, activities, materials, instrumentations, scenes, and foods. We use GoogLeNet for our main architecture as it has achieved great accuracy with efficiency in ImageNet Large Scale Visual Recognition Challenge (ILSVRC). Second, we fine-tune the network with our own runway image dataset. For the runway image dataset, we could not find any previously and publicly made dataset, so we collect the dataset from Google Image Search attaining 2426 images of 32 major fashion brands including Anna Molinari, Balenciaga, Balmain, Brioni, Burberry, Celine, Chanel, Chloe, Christian Dior, Cividini, Dolce and Gabbana, Emilio Pucci, Ermenegildo, Fendi, Giuliana Teso, Gucci, Issey Miyake, Kenzo, Leonard, Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, Marni, Max Mara, Missoni, Moschino, Ralph Lauren, Roberto Cavalli, Sonia Rykiel, Stella McCartney, Valentino, Versace, and Yve Saint Laurent. We perform 10-folded experiments to consider the random generation of training data, and our proposed model has achieved accuracy of 67.2% on final test. Our research suggests several advantages over previous related studies as to our best knowledge, there haven't been any previous studies which trained the network for apparel image classification based on runway image dataset. We suggest the idea of training model with image capturing all the possible postures, which is denoted as mobility, by using our own runway apparel image dataset. Moreover, by applying Transfer Learning and using checkpoint and parameters provided by Tensorflow Slim, we could save time spent on training the classification model as taking 6 minutes per experiment to train the classifier. This model can be used in many business applications where the query image can be runway image, product image, or street fashion image. To be specific, runway query image can be used for mobile application service during fashion week to facilitate brand search, street style query image can be classified during fashion editorial task to classify and label the brand or style, and website query image can be processed by e-commerce multi-complex service providing item information or recommending similar item.