• 제목/요약/키워드: Men's mourning dress

검색결과 6건 처리시간 0.019초

What is the Meaning of Black in Korean Traditional Mourning Dress?

  • Park, Saet Byul;DeLong, Marilyn
    • International Journal of Costume and Fashion
    • /
    • 제14권2호
    • /
    • pp.81-96
    • /
    • 2014
  • The meanings of colors vary with time and space. For the most important events in a person's life, such as wedding or funeral, people use color to symbolize their identities or roles. Traditionally, the colors of dress had indicated the wearer's age, class, or marital status in Korea. However, Korea's exposure to western cultures has affected in many dimensions of its modern history. Especially, influenced by social change, the traditional dress has undergone many modifications in forms, silhouettes, materials, and color. However, women's mourning dress has been maintained as a long lasting tradition and the use of white in mourning dress has been regarded as a norm until recently, while men have worn a regular black suit with a black tie. But, the shift from white to black in mourning dress has been observed in recent mourning practices. To examine this change of color in Korean traditional mourning dress, a historical approach utilizing multiple resources, such as interview, observations of events, documents, and archival records was applied.

『사례편람(四禮便覽)』에 기초한 남자 상복(喪服)의 고증제작에 관한 연구 (Historical Investigation and Production of Men's Mourning Dress Based on Sa-ryae-pyeonram [四禮便覽])

  • 조우현;김혜경;동준희;박민재
    • 복식
    • /
    • 제66권8호
    • /
    • pp.123-137
    • /
    • 2016
  • Sa-ryae-pyeonram [四禮便覽], which was published in the late Joseon Dynasty, was representative reinterpretation book of Ga-ryae [家禮] and it was a widely used and cited in the late Joseon Dynasty. This book contains Confucian values about the ritual of Confucian scholars of Joseon Dynasty. This study is a description of historical investigation and production of men's mourning dress based on Sa-ryae-pyeonram [四禮便覽] the result, of the study shows empirical attitude of Confucian scholasr in the late Joseon Dynasty. Through industrialization, traditional culture has been able to survive through preservation. Wearing the traditional mourning dress is not the only way to embody the traditional values in the modern society. It is will be necessary to study contemporary mourning dress as a reflection of traditional value.

침선장 최온순의 굴건제복(屈巾祭服)의 제작에 관한 연구 (A Research on the Production of Gulgunjebok of Choe Onsun, a Needlework Master)

  • 이영주
    • 한국의상디자인학회지
    • /
    • 제26권1호
    • /
    • pp.77-98
    • /
    • 2024
  • The mourning attire worn by the Sangju (Chief Mourner) during Confucian funeral rituals is known as Gulgeonjebok. It is comprised of Gulgeon, Sujil, and Hyogeon on the head, and Jungui underneath. On top of the Jungui, the ceremonial garments called Choeui are worn, along with Choesang. Yojil and Gyodae are then tied around the waist. Mahye and Hangieon are worn on the feet, and a walking stick made of bamboo, paulownia, or willow is carried. A needlework master, Choe Onsun, who was designated as a Holder of Intangible Cultural Property of Jeollabuk-do on November 27, 1998, is recognized for her efforts in restoring and recreating the forgotten Gulgeonjebok. Thanks to her endeavors, the period, regional, and cultural characteristics of Gulgeonjebok in the Jeolla Province have been preserved. This study aims to examine and reproduce characteristic items of Gulgeonjeboks handed down by a needlework master, Choe, by conducting an empirical study on the dimensions and schematization of the Gulgeon, the method of cutting, and the sewing process. The empirical research on Gulgeojebok is expected to further enhance traditional sewing skills. It will also serve as a foundation for deepening the level of research on traditional dress and sharing traditional cultural heritage.

조선시대(朝鮮時代) 유교사상(儒敎思想)과 의예복연구(儀禮服硏究) - 남자(男子) 포(袍)를 중심(中心)으로 - (A study on ceremonial costume and Confucianism is Chosun Dynasty - Focusing on Men's Po -)

  • 이선재
    • 복식
    • /
    • 제16권
    • /
    • pp.221-229
    • /
    • 1991
  • This thesis aims at reviewing the wearing aspect and formation of Chosun ceremonial dresses for meal and finding out the thought reflected by them from the standpoint that dresses themselves should be taken as one of the phenomena in culture. That is men's ceremonial costumes and confucian costumes of the royal family and the gentry family in Chosun is reviewed focused on the formation and the wearing aspect of Po, Which is a kind of them. And in the context of the phase of the times. I also considered the thoughts reflected on the clothes such as confucianism, Ying & Yang Theory, and the symbol and the thoughts of patterns in relation to the clothes. Confucian influence was the main force for the Chosun prohibitions for clothes. The major reasons for the prohibitions for clothes were as follows. First, they reflected confucian Chung myoung chooui(the principle that everything should be where it belongs). That is the prohibitions for clothes were used in the means to maintain feudalistic social order. influenced by social rank system. Second, they reflected confucian ethics in the means to recover social disciplines with the maintenance of traditional customs. This shows well in the restriction of luxurious items in dressing included the prohibitions for clothes. Third, they reflected Chosun's toadysm toward China. With the influx of Chinese style of dressing then government even changed the style of uniforms for public officials into that of Chinese resulting in dual styles of dressing. Ying & Yan Theory greatly affected the colors of Korean clothes and reflected toadysm toward China. too. The theory was embodied by prohibition of such colors for clothes as white, gray, and jade green. I reviewed the twelve patterns on Myunpok, Ten-Longivity patterns and Four-Gracious plants patterns in order to analyze the symbolism and thoughts of patterns for clothes. Nansam, Dopo, and Shimui worn by confucian scholars ensures that those clothes bears confucianism and philosopical factors. As shimui was worn by many people it appears in Chosun scholars' studies and a Chinese book called "Yeki". I reviewed the origin, procession, and ornaments of four ceremonial clothes and tried to find out the confucianism in them. First, In Kwanrei (the coming-of-age ceremony) remained ancestor worship and respect for manners. The clothes for this ceremony granted the rights and responsibilities of and adult to the wearer. The royal Kwanreipok had different dresses for each rank. As Samgapok, the crown prince wore Iksunkwan and Konryongpo for the first ritual, Wonryukwan and Kangsapo for the second, and Myunrukwan and Konpok for the third. The rank of the King's grandson was lower than the crown prince's. This example shows that Chosun people respected manners and thought the basic confucianism "God and people are equal." at the Royal court. Second, as Honreipok(wedding gown), the crown prince wore Myunrukwan and Konpok for Daereipok, Wonyukwan and Kangsapo for Napjing and Tongwoo, and Iksunkwan and Konryongpo for Chekbinui. But common people were allowed to wear an official outfit only for wedding in the means of congratulation on the most important day of their life. Wedding gowns which reflected Ying and Yang Theory emphasized the thought that union of a man and a wife is the most important event in life. Third, Sangrei(funeral) was the last ritual of a human being to send off the deceased. The mourning dresses expressed lamentation of the people left behind. Five-Dress-System for each the relative degree of familarity showed the solemnity and formality, which represented the formality of confucianism and ancestor worship. I reviewed the mourning dresses by dividing them into royal, Yangban's, and commons. They were featured by the fact that there was only one style for every walk of life. It is construed that anyone in mourning can wear the same clothes since he feels the same way regardless of his social rank. Fourth, Chereipok(sacrificial rite dresses) had different styles for each social rank. The King wore Myunpok(Kuryumyun and Kujangpok) were recorded to be worn first in the fourth year of King Taecho's ruling. The crown prince wore Palryumyun and Chiljangpok for sacrificial rite dress which was finally settled when King Sejong was in power. Common people wore Dopo, Shimui for the rite dress in the beginning of the Chosun Era and wore Dopo after Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592. In conclusion, confucianism played the main role in ceremonial dress system of Chosun and that was because it emphasized the ethics of action in life, which was different from other religions. It is true that cause-oriented thoughts and Chung myoung chooui in confucianism drove all ceremonies to extreme manners, discriminating the people who belonged to the lower social rank, and resulting in extremly luxurious life style. However, they also created a unique trend and clothes culture in the Chosun Era. I wish that this thesis provieds important information and direction for furthur studies in the future.

  • PDF

현대 패션에서 나타난 블랙의 미의식에 관한 연구 - 20세기 후반을 중심으로 - (A Study on the Aesthetic Consciousness of Black on Contemporary Fashion - Concentrating on the Late Twentieth Century -)

  • 송명희;조규화
    • 패션비즈니스
    • /
    • 제1권1호
    • /
    • pp.110-126
    • /
    • 1997
  • This dissertation intended to investigate the black color as a fashion color of the late 20th century and the aesthetic consciousness of black fashion. Black usually expressed a negative meaning, and was regarded as a color for a mourning and a sacred dress in western culture. There found several periods of black trend specially after 14th century. Black was considered as a traditional color of men's fashion since Dandyism. By the effect of art d co fashion, the perception toward black changed to a new beauty in 20th century. There continuously found a lot of aspects of black fashion in the late 20th century. In the high fashion, popularity of black, could be seen at five different look and style : The era of line alphabet, pantaloons suit style, folklore style, mannish look and unconstructive design by Japanese, and in street fashion, it showed at four different style and fashion: Beat style, mods and rockers style, punk fashion and fetish fashion. The aesthetic consciousness of black fashion at the late 20th century mentioned above should be summarized as follows. : Minimalism, dandyism, nihilism, asceticism, eroticism. In 1990s, the black appeared under the retro mood, and it should be regarded specially as one fashion trend of inclination of simplicity. Black should be called the representative color of 20th century fashion with the reason of containing the most of aesthetic consciousness in modern fashion.

  • PDF

구약성서(舊約聖書)에 나타난 히브리인의 복식(服飾) - 두식(頭飾), 신발 및 장신구(裝身具) 중심(中心)으로 - ("A Study on Hebrews Clothing in the Old Testament" - Especially on Hair Styles, Headgears, Footwear and Personal Ornaments -)

  • 박찬부
    • 복식
    • /
    • 제10권
    • /
    • pp.63-80
    • /
    • 1986
  • The Old Testament cotains mention of the history of creation and clothing in ancient Hebrew. This study dealt with Hebrew dress customs especially aimed at the manners of their hair styles, headgears, footwear and personal ornaments. References are Korean Revised Version, English King James Version and Revised Standard Version. There is little mention of hair styles and headgears in the Old Testament. Some sort of turban was worn by priests, and soldiers protected themselves with helmets, but most Israelitish men went bareheaded except on special occasions and often wear simple headbands. It was more common for women to use headwear of some type-turbans, scarves, and veils concealing the face. The veil was the distinctive female wearing apparel. All females, with the exception of maidservants and women in a low condition of life, wore a veil. It was the custom for women to wear a veil entirely covering their head in the public. Through most of the Old Testament periods long and thick hair was admired on men and women alike. The Hebrews were proud to have thick and abundant long hair, and they gave much attention to the care of their hair. The caring of hair was deeply related to their rituals. Nazirites never took a razor to their hair during his vow-days, but instead let it grow long, as an offering to God. Men would not cut their beards, but allow them to grow long. The Israelites' standard footwear was a pair of simple leather sandals. This was one of the items of clothing not highly prized. In a colloquial saying of the time, a pair of shoes signified something of small value, and to be barefoot except in times of mourning or on holy place, was a sign either of extreme poverty or humiliation, as in the case of war prisoners. Because precious stones were not mined in the Palestine-Syria region, Hebrews imported them from foreign country. They were consumer-to a large degree limited by their very modest standard of living-but not producers. Hebrews liked the precious stones and were motivated to acquire and wear jewels. Besides their use for adornment and as gifts, the precious or semiprecious stones were regarded by Jews of property. The Hebrews were not innovators in the field of decorative arts. The prohibition of the Law against making any "graven image" precluded the development of painting, sculpture, and other forms of representational art. Jewish men did not indulge in extravagances of dress, and there was little ornamentation among them. Men wore a signet ring on their right hand or sometimes suspended by a cord or chain around the neck. The necklaces, when worn by a male, also bore any symbol of his authority. Bracelets were extremely popular with both men and women, men usually preferring to wear them on their upper arms. The girdle was a very useful part of a man's clothing. It was used as a waist belt, or used to fasten a man's sword to his body, or served as a pouch in which to keep money and other things. Men often carried a cane or staff, which would be ornamented at the top. Among the women there was more apt to be ornamentation than among the men. Hebrew women liked to deck themselves with jewels, and ornamentation of the bride were specially luxurious and numerous. They wore rings on their fingers or On toes, ankle rings, earrings, nosering, necklace, bracelets. Their shapes were of cresent, waterdrops, scarab, insect, animal or plant. Sometimes those were used as amulets. They were made of ceramics, gold, silver, bronze, iron, and various precious stones which were mostly imported from Egypt and Sinai peninsular. Hebrews were given many religious regulations by Moses Law on their hair, headgears, sandals and ornamentation. Their clothing were deeply related with their customs especially with their religions and rituals. Hebrew religion was of monotheism and of revealed religion. Their religious leaders, the prophets who was inspired by God might need such many religious regulations to lead the idol oriented people to God through them.

  • PDF