• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.1
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• pp.135-146
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to investigate the meaning and possible shape of Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun(高麗鴉靑雲袖羅質孫) through the details regarding its color, fabric, and pattern in the $13-14^{th}$ century writings and costume relics. Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun was the summer dress coat that government officials wore during the Jisun feast of Yuan, and it was symbolic of the political strategy of Yuan as well as the excellent Goryeo fabric material, but no relics remain. During this period, Achung (dark blue)was the color that was used to dye silk, dress coats of upper class men, and background fabric of the embroidered official patch. And, the term, Yunsu (cloud sleeves), was probably sleeves with cloud pattern. The most typical cloud pattern in the 13 and the $14^{th}$ century was the 'flowing, gathering-headed cloud'. The Ra(silk gauze) weaving technique of Goryeo was developed rapidly in the $12^{th}$ century, and the quality of the Ra in the late Goryeo was good enough to be used for making the official's dress coat in the golden age of Yuan. According to the characteristic of jisun and man's formal-suit style in the Mongolian-Yuan, the possible styles for Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun can be summarized as follows: a basic Mongolian gown with narrow sleeves and deep crossed diagonal opening, a Mongolian gown with waist pleats, the combination of half sleeved gown and long sleeved Mongolian gown. These styles would be made of delicate Goryeo Ra, cloud patterned sleeves, fabrics dyed in dark blue color, and shawl or embroidered patch ornaments for officials of Yuan, which was more simple than materials for Khan's Jisun to avoid rebellions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.19-30
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• 1984

There is a symbolic term which has realized custom of an era and has eome into fashion since the middle of 1920's. That is Garconne. This paper studied the image and costume of Garconne expressed in literary works, the form of art made it to come into being, and costume of a group of women played a role of pioneers of Garconne. Garconne attempted simple, casual, and mannish costume instead of usual elegance. It was the boiysh style($\`{a}$, la Garconne) which did not stress on the bust and waist like chanel suits used wool jersey by a designer, Chanel ana short skirts of low waist line. They got short haircut and wore low heel shoes. Garconne meant women who were free of convention, were familiar with love a d profession, and lived for themselves in the same manner of young men. They yieled new mode of 1920's. Though their lives were only a period, they manifested the symbol of the period though their figure and designation was not disappeared at the age but was settled as a mark of fixed image. There were several reasons why the Garconne was born. Rapid changes in politics, economics, and society in Europe were occurred from the First World War to 1920 and the trend of custom and art was a turning point. Especially, the entry of women into the society and the mode of Art Deco influenced it directly. The role of a pioneer of Garconne was appeared from the French Revolution. As Merveilleuse, Lionne, and Bloomers wore peculiar clothings ana had life style being irrelevant to tradition, they were talked about. They informed in advance the appearance of new women who were different from romantic ladies and were more modern and active. The pioneer design of Paul Poiret which were over whelming throughout a period and functional design of Chanel were increasingly accelerated.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.92-103
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• 2009

The study is interested in the consumer's mixed choice of the internet and the offline stores. Therefore the purpose of study is to investigate if the clothing shopping orientation of consumers varies when they shop internet and offline, instead of classifying consumers into internet shoppers and offline shoppers. For the purpose, quantitative survey was carried out using 201 questionnaires from men and women in their twenties. The data were analyzed using factor analysis, Pearson's correlation analysis, Spearman's rank order correlation coefficient, t-test, and frequency analysis. The results are as following. First, the clothing shopping orientation structures of offline and internet stores were different each other. As the result of factor analysis, positive, brand oriented, economic, convenient conformity, convenient impulsive factors were extracted from offline store and rational, enjoying, goal oriented, conformity, brand oriented, convenient impulsive purchase factors were extracted from internet store respectively. Second, as the results of investigating the relationship between the clothing shopping orientation structures of offline and internet stores, positive(off)-enjoying(on), brand oriented(off)-brand oriented(on), convenient conformity(off)-conformity(on) had strong correlation s and the rest were peculiar to the each store type. Specifically, the goal oriented factor peculiar to the internet store was noticeable. Third, as the results of investigating the differences between clothing shopping orientation of offline and internet stores, the ranks of strong orientation dimension were different between two channels. As well, the mean differences were significant in goal oriented, conformity, brand oriented, and convenient impulsive purchase dimensions. This study has the significance that it investigated the variance of clothing shopping orientation according to the mixed selection trend of internet/offline.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.251-262
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• 2012

This research aimed to examine an advertising location according to consumer involvement about internet search advertising and advertising effect according to advertising forms. This research carried out a questionnaire survey from May 25, 2011 for seven days with the target of men and women at the age of 20s-30s who tried search advertising in Seoul and capital area, and 519 copies were used for final analysis. For analysis of collected materials, the reliability test, factor analysis, $t$-test, regression analysis and ${\chi}^2$ test were executed by using statistical package SPSS 16.0. The results are as follows. First, it appeared that consumer's clothing involvement, advertising involvement, advertising location and advertising forms had an influence on site attitude and clicking intention. Consumers of high clothing involvement, high advertising involvement and upper end advertising appeared to have high site attitude and clicking intention. Second, all consumers of the low and high clothing involvement and upper end advertising appeared to prefer the upper end advertising. It appeared that consumers of low advertising involvement prefer lower end advertising, and consumers of high advertising involvement prefer the upper end advertising at an advertising location according to clothing involvement. Accordingly, it is important that the search advertising exposes advertising in the upper end, and that should use an advertising phrase capable of giving trust to consumers. As the text advertising had high site attitude and clicking intention in the advertising forms, consumers should pay attention to the advertising phrase.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.2 no.3 s.3
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• pp.11-18
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to review the origin and background of well-being, the emerging well-being culture, and the phenomenon and features of the hair beauty affected by it. For this purpose, the researcher reviewed dissertations written between 199a and 2002, copies of the beauty journal Short Hair published between 2002 and 2003, beauty newspapers published between March, 2003 and June, 2004, and relevant Internet sites. When we review the well-being hair style tendency, we may be reminded of a light shaggy cut style with a thick wave volume or a natural wave highlighted, or a natural style with a natural color rendered by the braid technique. The well-being hair styles may be inspired by such natural images as the earth, sand, rock, wind, feather and flowers, while using cut, permanent wave or coloring technique for the hairs, in order to create new hair styles. The goal is to make men in contact with the nature. Meanwhile, as people are more concerned about diverse hair textures, natural and healthy hairs, they want their hairs to look comfortable and active rather than luxurious. The well-being cut styles may be categorized into cut style highlighting healthy hairs with a Bobos luxury and soft and light stroke cut reminiscent of a Bohemian freedom. The well-being permanent style may be divided into thick wave, natural wave, and the permanent style using a strong wave to make hairs look bloated. The hair colors reminding us of some natural images are used to highlight a well-being image. In addition, the concept of well-being pursuing a happy and healthy life has been being introduced into the permanent wave material liquids; such liquids made from natural materials, fruits or herbs increase, while environmental-friendly liquids or materials are used more for healthy hairs. The reason why the well-being culture influences hair styles importantly may be that people's desire of healthy body and mind and a comfortable life is reflected in hair styles. In conclusion, as the hair styles or an index for a new cultural current in our modern age are influenced by the well-being phenomenon, more and more people will put priority on healthy hairs. So, it is deemed necessary to apply the well-being hair styles appropriately to render satisfactory hair styles.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.1-6
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to investigate the female college students' preferences to the images of both western and eastern pictures, and positive/negative perception on to the model's nationality in the apparel advertizing pictures of fashion magazines. 100 students participated in the survey, and 20 stimulus pictures were shown to them. The results were as follows: The female college students preferred the western images than the eastern images in the pictures of bedroom, palace and beer, while they preferred the eastern images in the pictures of snack and famous drawings of a beauty. But they showed more positive attitude to all the western models' advertizement pictures than the eastern models' ones, in casual wear, formal wear, watches and inner-wear divisions except in men's formal wear division. This meant that the perception of female students on western images was positive and it seems stimulating the consumers preferences of brand images.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.136-148
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• 1998

This is a study on the change of the Medievalmen's underclothes. Underclothing includes all such articles, worn by either sex, as were completely or mainly concealed from the spectator by the external costume. Throughout the Middle Ages, the underclothing of both sexes possessed characteristic inherited from earlier times. Its function was purely utilitarian. It was not used to express class distinction and only very indirectly to enhance sex attraction. The idea of underclothes was associated with the idea of the body's sinfulness. Underclothes could also symbolize the discipline of humility. To appear clad only in underclothes was a voluntary form of selfabasement often practised by pilgrims. The notion that underclothes might express the spirit of the changing times, in sympathy with the outer clothing, did not enter the medieval mind. The length of the shirt was less than that of the modern garment, especially after the middle of the fourteenth century. The sleeves were somewhat full, without cuffs, and cut straight. During the second half of the twelfth century, when braies become definitely an undergarment. In the fourteenth century braies became shorter and shorter and the shirt could no longer be tucked in but hung outside over the thighs. After 1340 the costume on the surface somewhat resembling modern 'tights', began to reveal display the shape of the male leg as a form of sex attraction. By the close of the Middle Ages, braies had become less like loincloths, and more like modern bathing trunks. The peasant and laborer did not attempt to keep pace with the changes of fashion but, continued, as a rule, to wear the long braies of their forefathers. The higher ranks how this garment reflected the changes of the mode of outer costumes.

• English & American cultural studies
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.83-103
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• 2013

This paper focuses on the function of suicidal images in the history of art including literature. Death has been romanticized or repoliticized into an existential act of defiance and rebellion in literary works, so questions remain about the correlation between literary suicide and the essence of suicide. Although Jacques Ranciere insists that the order of art contrasts with the order of common people whose acts and gestures can express either their specific purposes nor the rationalities of their frustration, literary suicide reflects the outside life of readers. In fact, images of suicide produces the order of things about the real world. William Shakespeare's Hamlet handled two oppositional self-murder significantly. As Ron M. Brown pointed out, Hamlet, by choosing confrontation, seeks out an end which is voluntary, thus he avoids self-destruction and feels triumph of heroic fashion. Ophelia's self-chosen death stems from loss, frailty and the disintegration of reason, which demeans the act and diminishes her from the tragic to the pathetic(16). In the $19^{th}$ century, the resurrection of Ophelia acted as the context for later periods where life itself is fictionalized from the differing periods of network of signifier and texts. Finally, in Ophelia's case, fiction became life(Brown 285). Her suicidal image was fixed in the Victorian Culture whose visual discourse was strikingly similar to that of the men. Likewise, the ambiguities of the suicide became intertwined with the social, cultural issues of a certain period, and the paradigm of suicide was conformed to the changing needs of successive generations. However, if literary art understands that a European culture grappled with the almost impossible task and coming to terms with this strangest and most persistent of phenomena, it will be able to focus on of the multi-layered suicide by recognizing the inherent instability of the verbal sign which cannot reveal the design and grammar of truth.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.27-42
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• 2016

The purposes of this study were to investigate the emotional consumption propensity and the preferences for sensibility factors of fabrics(color tone, pattern and texture image), and to analyse the differences according to demographic variables and relationships between emotional consumption propensity and preferences for sensibility factors of fabrics, focusing on male and female consumers in 20's, 30's and 40's. The emotional consumption propensity were classified into symbolic consumption propensity, individual consumption propensity, aesthetic consumption propensity and hedonic consumption propensity. The subjects attached great importance in the order of aesthetic consumption propensity, individual consumption propensity and symbolic consumption propensity. Those factors of emotional consumption propensity showed partially significant difference according to demographic variables. Female consumers preferred various color tones than men did, and preference for light color tone showed significant differences according to gender and occupation of consumers. The preferences for floral pattern showed significant difference according to gender, age, education, occupation and marital status of consumers. The factors of the texture images for the fabrics showed partially significant difference according to demographic variables except education of consumers. There were almost significant relationships between emotional consumption propensity and the preferences for sensibility factors for fabrics.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.186-199
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• 2016

The shoe last which is the framework for the shoemaking is intensively combined with the 3D data and technologies. International shoe companies have already commercialized 3D printing technology in producing the shoe, but domestic shoe companies are still in their early stages. This study used the 3D scanning, 3D modeling and 3D printing of the high-technology to make the shoe last. This 3D producing processes should be helpful in building competitiveness in domestic shoe industry. The 3D foot scanning data of men in 30s(n=200) were collected in SizeKorea(2010). The basic statistics, factor and cluster analysis were performed. They were categorized in 3 groups by 3D foot measurement data, and the standard models were selected in each group. The cross sections in XY, YZ and XZ planes sliced from 3D scan data of the standard model were used in the sketches of the 3D shoe last modeling. The 3D shoe last was modeled by Solidworks CAD and printed by MakerBot Replicator2; a desktop 3D printer. This research showed the potential for utilization of 3D printing technology in the domestic shoe industry. The 3D producing process; 3D scanning, 3D modeling and 3D printing is expected to utilized widely in the fashion industry within the nearest future.