• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.1 s.49
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• pp.17-23
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• 2005

We had previously reported that Selina (selina-4(14), 7(11)-dien-8-one) was isolated from methanol extract of Afractylodes rhizome and has strong whitening activity in B16 melanoma cells. In this report, we demonstrated its action mechanism in melan-a cells, non-tumorigenic melanocytes. We also investigated the clinical efficacy of cosmetic preparation containing Selina. Selina reduced the melanin synthesis of Melan-a cells by $50\%$ at a concentration of $10 {\mu}g/mL$ without any apparent cytotoxicity. We also found that the treatment of cells with Selina decreased tyrosinase activity by $60\%$ at a concentration of $10 {\mu}g/mL$ but Selina was not a direct inhibitor of tyrosinase activities. To elucidate the action mechanism of Selina, we investigated the changes in mRNA and protein level of tyrosinase, TRP-1 and TRP-2 using RT-PCR and western blotting, respectively. As a result, the mRNA and protein level of tyrosinase were markedly reduced at $10 {\mu}g/mL$ of Selina without any effect on TRP-1 and TRP-2. These results suggest that Selina exerts its whitening effect mainly through regulating expression of tyrosinase. A 7 week-clinical trial using formulation containing $0.2\%$ selina-4(14), 7(11)-dien-8-one with 20 volunteers resulted in statistically significant whitening effect (p < 0.05), without any adverse effect. Based on these results, Selina (selina-4(14), 7(11)-dien-8-one) can be s useful and safe ingredient for the cleanness and brightness of skin.

• KSBB Journal
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.329-334
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• 2008

The antioxidant activity and the qualitative analysis of Acanthopanax sessiliflorum Seeman were studied by partially purified extract using various methods: extraction by using ethanol solutions and temperatures, and absorption to Diaion HP20 column chromatography using 10%, 20%, 40%, 60% ethanol solutions. Major constituents, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, eleutheroside E, was determinated by HPLC method in Acanthopanax sessiliflorum S. 10% and 20% ethanol solutions contain chlorogenic acid (3.020$\pm$0.080%, 20.500$\pm$1.150%, respectively). 40% ethanol solution contains caffeic acid and eleutheroside E (12.270$\pm$0.360%, 1.670$\pm$0.140%, respectively). Diaion HP20 fractions (10%, 20%, 40%, 60% ethanol solutions) showed the scavenging activity of radicals and reactive oxygen species with the $IC_{50}$ values of $81.534{\pm}0.992{\mu}g/ml$, $1.748{\pm}0.098{\mu}g/ml$, $11.487{\pm}1.768{\mu}g/ml$, $21.960{\pm}0.547{\mu}g/ml$ against 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazly radical and $1713.548{\pm}34.565{\mu}g/ml$, $131.419{\pm}2.235{\mu}g/ml$, $200.681{\pm}2.444{\mu}g/ml$, $757.897{\pm}6.868{\mu}g/ml$ against superoxide radicals in the xanthine/xanthine oxidase system, respectively. Especially, 20% and 40% ethanol fractions showed more antioxidant activity than dl-$\alpha$-tocopherol. These results suggest that Acanthopanax sessiliflorum S. extract and Diaion HP20 fractions may be useful as a potential source of nutraceutical and cosmetic products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.259-268
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• 2008

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase and elastase and components of Castanea crenata leaf were investigated. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$) of extract / fractions of Castanea crenata left was in the order: 50% ethanol extract ($13.6{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction (6.2) < aglycone fraction (2.1). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$ of extract / fractions from Castanea crenata leaf extract / fractions on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activity was in the order: aglycone fraction (0.8) < 50% ethanol extract (0.5) < ethyl acetate fraction (0.3). The scavenging activity ($IC_{50}$ for ${O_2}^{{\cdot}\;-}$ (superoxide anion radical) generated by NBT method was in the order: ethyl acetate fraction (145.5) < aglycone fraction (65.5). The protective effects on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction exhibited the most prominent cellular protective effect (${\tau}_{50}$, $191.9{\pm}12.2\;min$ at $10{\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction ($9.1{\mu}g/mL$) on elastase was higher than oleanolic and ($13.7{\mu}g/mL$). And the inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction ($21.6{\mu}g/mL$) on tyrosinase was higher than arbutin ($226.2{\mu}g/mL$). But 50% ethanol extract rarely exhibited the inhibitory activity on tryosinase and elastase. Flavonoids were contained in Castanea crenata left (96.3 mg / 100 g dried Castanea crenata leaf). And flavonoids contained in ethyl acetate fraction were kaempferol, quercetin, quercitrin, and so on. Quercitrin is the most abundant component. These results indicate that extract / fractions of Castanea crenata can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging free radical and ROS, Castanea crenata leaf extract/ fractions could be used as new cosmeceutical for whitening and anti-wrinkle products.

• The Korean Journal of Food And Nutrition
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.137-143
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• 2002

Lyophilizate of immatured wax gourd extract was 3.1 %, matured wax gourd extract was 1.0%, and its main ingredient was sugar, which accounts for 89.7% in total residue. In matured wax gourd, pectin contents was 4.11 mg/ml, and in immatured wax gourd 4.43 mg/m1. In matured wax gourd sarcocarp, sugar contents was 0.1% of sucrose, 0.32% of glucose, 0.35% of fructose, the first unidentified sugar was 0.06% and the second was 0.04%, and all total 0.87%. In sarcocarp of immatured wax gourd, sucrose was 0.33%, glucose was 1.04%, frutcose was 1.12%, and the first unidentified sugar 0.18%, and the second was 0.l2, which total 2.79%. In matured wax gourd core, pH was 4.64, sarcocarp 4.94, immatured wax gourd core 4,96, sarcocarp 5.40. According to the organic acid analysis, in sarcocarp of matured wax gourd, citric acid of 0.409 was contained, magic acid 0.084, succnic acid 0.048%, in matured wax gourd core, citric acid was 0.648, magic acid 0.127, succinc acid 0.058%, in immatured wax gourd, citric acid 0.023, magic acid 0.219, succinic acid 0.298%, in immutured wax gourd, citric acid was 0.039, malic acid 0.350, succinic 0.224%. Fumaric acid was trace in all cases. Total organic acid in matured wax gourd core was 0.833, immatured wax gourd core was 0.624 and immatured wax gourd sarcocarp was 0.546, matured wax gourd sarcocarp was 0,541%. In inhibition rate to propionibacterium acnes, control was 0(ø, cm), wax gourd that was not heated was 2.6, and wax gourd which was heated was 2.5, concentrated by 1/5 was 1.9, wax gourd by 1/10 was 2.5, freezing dry was 2.3. Wax gourd which not heated on producing melanin in B-16 melanoma cell, the melanins forming unit was 15$\mu$1/m1 in addition of 0.01%, while that as a control was 29$\mu$1/m1.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Applied Pharmacology
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• 2007.11a
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• pp.79-92
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• 2007

Oxidative stress have known to be a risk factor for the degenerative processes and closely related to a lot of diseases. It is well established that antioxidants are good in protection and therapeutic means against oxidative damage. There is increasing interest in natural antioxidants and many natural antioxidants have been found and utilized as the possible protection for various diseases and skin aging. We have screened natural antioxidant agents for cosmeceuticals, nutraceuticals, and drugs as therapeutic and preventive means against oxidative stress, and have developed a number of novel antioxidants from various natural sources. A novel melanin synthesis inhibitor, Melanocin A, isolated from the metabolite of a fungal strain Eupenicillium shearii F80695 inhibited mushroom tyrosinase and melanin biosynthesis of B16 melanoma cells with $IC_{50}$ value of 9.0 nM and MIC value of $0.9\;{\mu}M$, respectively. Melanocin A also exhibited potent antioxidant activity by scavenging of DPPH and superoxide anion radicals. UV was found to increase the level of hydrogen peroxides and other reactive oxygen species (ROS) in skin tissues. This increase in ROS may not only alter the structure and function of many genes and proteins directly but may also modulate their expressions through signal transduction pathways and, ultimately, lead to skin damage. We investigated the effect of Melanocin A on UV-induced premature skin aging. Firstly, the effect of Melanocin A on UV-induced matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-9 expression in an immortalized human keratinocyte cell line, HaCaT in vitro was investigated. Acute UV irradiation induced MMP-9 expression at both the mRNA and protein levels and Melanocin A suppressed this expression in a dose-dependent manner. We then investigated UV-induced skin changes in hairless mice in vivo by Melanocin A. Chronic exposure of hairless mouse dorsal skin to UV increased skin thickness and induced wrinkle formation and the gelatinase activities of MMP-2 and MMP-9. Moreover, Melanocin A significantly suppressed UV-induced morphologic skin changes and MMP-2 and MMP-9 expression. These results show that Melanocin A can prevent the harmful effects of UV that lead to skin aging. Therefore, we suggest that Melanocin A should be viewed as a potential therapeutic agent for preventing and/or treating premature skin aging. Terrein is a bioactive fungal metabolite isolated from Penicillium species. Terrein has a relatively simple structure and can be easily synthesized. However, the biologic effects of terrein are comparatively unknown. We found for the first time that terrein potently inhibit melanin production in melanocytes and has a strong hypopigmentary effect in a spontaneously immortalized mouse melanocyte cell line, Mel-Ab. Treatment of Mel-Ab cells with terrein (10-100 mM) for 4 days significantly reduced melanin levels in a dose-dependent manner. In addition, terrein at the same concentration also reduced tyrosinase activity. We then investigated whether terrein influences the extracellular signal-regulated protein kinase (ERK) pathway and the expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), which is required for tyrosinase expression. Terrein was found to induce sustained ERK activation and MITF down-regulation, and luciferase assays showed that terrein inhibits MITF promoter activity in a dose-dependent manner. To elucidate the correlation between ERK pathway activation and a decreased MITF transcriptional level, PD98059, a specific inhibitor of the ERK pathway, was applied before terrain treatment and found to abrogate the terrein-induced MITF attenuation. Terrein also reduced the tyrosinase protein level for at least 72 h. These results suggest that terrain reduces melanin synthesis by reducing tyrosinase production via ERK activation, and that this is followed by MITF down-regulation.