• Journal of Conservation Science
• /
• v.30 no.2
• /
• pp.219-234
• /
• 2014

Fabrics, natural dyed fabrics, papers, natural dyed papers and paints were examined effects of colors and mechanical properties for materials of museum collections under anoxic treatment. Anoxic conditions using nitrogen and argon were oxygen concentration 0.01%, temperature($20^{\circ}C$, $25^{\circ}C$, $30^{\circ}C$), 50% RH and exposure time 30 days. Examined fabrics were raw silk fabric, UV irradiated raw silk fabric, degummed silk fabric, UV irradiated degummed silk fabric, cotton fabric, and UV irradiated cotton fabric. Natural dyed silk and cotton fabrics were dyed with fresh indigo, indigo, safflower, gromwell, madder sappanwood, amur cork tree, turmeric, gardenia, barberry root, pagoda tree flower, cochineal, lac, alnus japonica, gallnut, chestnut shell, and combination(indigo and safflower, indigo and amur cork tree, indigo and pagoda tree flower, indigo and sappanwood). Papers were Korean papers(mulberry paper, mulberry(70%) and rice straw(30%) mixed paper), Japanese paper(gampi paper), cotton paper, refined linen paper, cotton, linen & manila mixed fibre furnish, copy paper, news print, and alum sized mulberry paper. Natural dyed papers were dyed with indigo, sappanwood, madder, safflower, gardenia, amur cork tree, and pagoda tree flower. Paints were painted on alum-sized papers and silk fabrics using glue and pigments(azurite, malachite, cinnabar, vermilion, orpiment, gamboge, red lead, haematite, iron oxide red, indigo(lake), lac, cochineal, safflower, madder root lake, celadonite, smalt, ultramarine blue, lapis lazuli, prussian blue, kaolin, lead white, oyster-shell white, and clam-shell white). The color differences(${\Delta}E^*$) of all examined materials were below 1.5 or lowered than control samples after anoxic treatment. The variations of tenacity of yarns of fabrics and natural dyed fabrics after anoxic treatment were within that of standard silk and cotton fabrics. Gases(nitrogen and argon) and temperatures of anoxic treatment did not also affected color differences and variations of tenacity of materials.

• Journal of Conservation Science
• /
• v.28 no.2
• /
• pp.119-129
• /
• 2012

Excavated textiles provide very important research data on the costume culture of the Joseon dynasty. In particular, dyed textiles are indispensable for textile conservation research and for restoration of remains as well as for general costume culture research. Unfortunately, a prolonged burial environment causes the colors to change and gradually fade after excavation. Therefore, it is very difficult to identify the original color. In this study, natural dyed samples of red, yellow, purple and blue were prepared and analyzed using HPLC-PDA. Dyes of colorants extracted from excavated textile remains were analyzed by HPLC. In addition, mordants were analyzed using (SEM-EDX) in order to estimate the original color. The 16~17th Century's three samples were analyzed, sample 1, and 2 from Eunjin Song's Song Mun-Chang excavated at the Songchon-dong in Daejeon, and sample 3 from Yeosan Song's Song, Hee-Jong excavated at the Mokdal-dong in Daejeon. From the HPLC results, alizarin, purpurin, and indigo were detected on sample 1, alizarin and purpurin on sample 2, ellagic acid and indigo on sample 3. Therefore they were dyed with madder and indigo (sample 1), madder (sample2), pomagranted and indigo (sample 3). Al mordant was identified on three samples.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.14 no.1
• /
• pp.27-42
• /
• 2010

It was in the fifteenth century in Italy that men began to talk of a rebirth in the arts and literature. Today we consider the period to belong to the Renaissance. We noticed the splendour of costume and the important role it played, in the life of Italian society in that period. From elsewhere in Europe and also from the East, dyestuffs came to Italy overland or in shiploads. Red and blue, notably kermes and madder on the one hand, and indigo and woad on the other were fundamental textile dyes in Italy. Saffron was used for yellows, oak galls for blacks. Renaissance Italian costumes' main color symbolized various meaning. Red symbolized high rank, affection, lady, redemption and various cardinal virtueses. Yellow was evaded color which was symbolized the lower class, betrayal, and gold. Green symbolized penniless, youthfulness, hope and love. Blue symbolized humbleness, sincerity, knowledge and the Madonna. Purple symbolized nobility, vice and various meanings. Black symbolized death, grief, beauty and elegance. These color symbols in the Renaissance Italian costumes were very similar to that of modern color symbols.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.6 no.1
• /
• pp.34-45
• /
• 2004

The purpose of the study was to investigate weaving, traditional dyeing, fiber material, pattern how carpet developing according to Turkey area for using the data that can rear to the export strategic industry for carpet production and development that is correct in culture. The result are followed: 1) Life of the age was expressed in color and pattern using according to geographical environment, climate, lifestyle, religion etc. 2) In the case of weaving, there is Kilim, Soumak that appears only weft on the surface as plane weaving without knot and carpet of knotted pile weaving and knot of carpet is duplex knot difference with carpet of the other country. 3) In the case of textile material, there is use most wool fiber that can get easily from breeded sheep by nomads. 4) In the case of dyeing, did the local traditional color to use dye extracting in dyeing material that can get easily in the area. Red that can extract in madder that can get easily in which area of Turkey, dark navy blue of indigo dye that indigo plant fermentation and cream beige that is wool's natural color were exposed representative traditional color of Turkey carpet. 5) Pattern was advanced uniquely as culture of the area; weaving person's sensitivity and desire are reflected through centuries. Amulet, riches ＆ honors, fecundity and happiness appeared most pattern in any area.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.12 no.6 s.53
• /
• pp.999-1009
• /
• 2004

Chitin is a derived product from the shell of shrimp or crab. Chitosan, a deacetylated product of chitin, has widely been used in the biomedical sector, food industry, and textile industry. Chitosan exhibits fiber-forming property under certain conditions. Nonwoven fabrics made of chitosan fibers may have diverse applications in the industry. Previous studies have revealed that the dye uptake properties of natural dyestuffs improved by the chitosan pretreatment on the fabric specimens. In this case, fabric specimen is coated with acidic salt form of chitosan, which is different from the pure chitosan, since the coating process employes coating with the acidic solution of the chitosan and subesquent drying. In this study, chitosan nonwoven fabric samples were prepared from chitosan sample having deacetylation degree of $100\%$ and molecular weight of 650,000. Chitosan nonwoven fabrics maintain the form of $-NH_2$ end-group. These in turn exhibit higher dye uptake ability than the fabrics coated with chitosan acidic solutions do.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.23 no.2
• /
• pp.90-99
• /
• 2011

The aim of this study is to develope eco-printing method using natural pigments and chitosan as a natural binder. Three chitosans with different molecular weights were employed to find appropriate conditions including chitosan concentration and pigment/binder ratio. Dye uptake, color and fastnesses of the printed fabrics were evaluated to find optimum conditions within the range of experiments carried out in this study. The effectiveness of chitosan as a printing binder was examined in comparison with color, dye uptake, and fastnesses of conventional synthetic binder and guar gum. It was found that chitosans with low or medium molecular weight were appropriate. Using low molecular weight chitosan, optimum concentrations were 1.7% for charcoal, madder and chlorophyll, whereas 2.2% for ocher, yellow soil, indigo and cochineal. Regardless of molecular weight and concentration of chitosan, the color fastnesess of fabrics printed with mineral pigments were superior to those of the fabrics printed with plant and animal pigments. As pigment/chitosan ratio became higher, rubbing fastness was decreased by 1-3 grade. The colorfastness of printed fabric with chitosan binder was similar to that with synthetic binder, which was higher than that with guar gum.

• Journal of Conservation Science
• /
• v.31 no.3
• /
• pp.299-308
• /
• 2015

Aim of this study is to identify dyestuff of the Dallryeong(official's robe in Joseon Dynasty, 16th century) excavated from Yuryang-dong, Cheonan, in 1996. For this purpose, extracted dyestuffs from Dallryeong fabric and from natural dyestuffs for red color(safflower, Sapanwood, Madder) which are presumed to have been used in the Dallryeong, are analyzed and compared by high performance liquid chromatography(HPLC). As a result, HPLC chromatogram of extracts of the Dallryeong's dyestuff and safflower are showed a peak at 17.5 minutes. The UV/Vis spectra of the samples are showed the maximum absorption wavelength at 519nm. This result is identical with the analysis of the previous studies on red dyestuff of safflower. In addition, the analysis of Mass Spectrometry(MS) showed the identical result of the peak with m/z 910. Following these results, excavated pink Dallryeong were considered to have been dyed with safflower.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.66 no.3
• /
• pp.135-146
• /
• 2016

This study is examines the replica of the excavated braided belt that tied the Daedae(大帶) of Simui(深衣). This study aims to comprehend the structure and color of the excavated braided belt, and to reproduce the Jodae(braided belt) of Kim Won-taek(1683-1766) clan, which was excavated in Cheongju. Black dye was used on the belt since it was the color that remained the most on the artifact. This study in the color black is focused on the Cheungchosack in Jeonggongji(展功志) from the first volume of 'Yimwongyeongjeji(林圓經濟志)'. From the Kim Won-taek clan, the braided belt of Simui of Kim Won-taek and his son, Kim Shang-jik(1716-1773), have been excavated. The blackness of the braided belt was more apparent in Kim Shang-jik compared to Kim Won-taek, and also Kim Shang-jik's braided belt was darkbrown. So I mixed gallnut, green vitriol, ash tree and catechu, the ingredient of bluish black, in equal proportions. Kim Won-taek's silk thread was dyed 3 times and Kim Sang-jik's silk thread was dyed 5 times to reproduce the original belt. Based on the information from the 'Saryepyenlam(四禮便覽)' that the Jo was weaved with five colored threads, I reproduced the Jo with sophora flowers, gardenia, amur cork tree, safflower, madder and indigo sediment. Yeokeum organization(interlacing), which is a Jodae woven strands of both sets of 15 repeats construction were in the mixed organization of 3/2 and 2/2.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
• /
• v.1 no.1 s.1
• /
• pp.27-47
• /
• 2003

This research is to build the foundation of systematic application of color in cosmetology by analyzing color attributes in women's makeup presentation. The result were as follows. 1. The most popular color series in make up were R then RP and YR. The most popular color tone is 'd' and 'lt'. 2. Colors in make up according to age was as follows. For eye shadow, people aged 18 to 24 used 'lt' tone of the R color series; people aged 25 to 34 used 'lt', 's', 'sf tone of the R color series, 'lt' tone of the PB color series, 'lt' tone of the YR color series; people over 35 'g' tone of the YR color series, 'sf' tone of the P color series. For lipstick, people aged 18 to 24 used 'd' tone of the R color series; people aged 25 to 34 used 'd', 'sf' tone of the R color series; people over 35 used 'd' tone of the R color series. For lip-gloss, people aged 18 to 24 used 'v', 'lt', 'b', 's' tone of the R color series; people aged 25 to 34 used 's' 'd' 'dp' 'sf' tone of the R color series; people over 35 used 'b' tone of the R color series. 3. Make up colors according to marital status was as follows. For eye shadow, while married interviewees used 's', 'dk' tone of the R color series, single interviewees used 'lt', 'sf' tone of the R color series. For lipstick, while married interviewees used 'd', 'g' tone of the R color series, single interviewees preferred to use madder 'd', 'sf' tone of the R color series. For lip-gross, while married interviewees used 'd' tone of the R color series, single interviewees used 'b' tone of the R color series the most.

• The Journal of Korean Medicine
• /
• v.28 no.1 s.69
• /
• pp.1-10
• /
• 2007

Background : There has been renewed interest in complementary alternative medicine around the world far a decade. On the other hand, the issue of safety of herbal medicine in Korea has been continuously questioned. Issues raised have included not only chemical residue or heavy metals caused by pollution, but also the toxicity of herbal medicine itself. Objectives : The purpose of this study was to review some herbal medicines subject to controversy of toxicity and figure out what kind of problems they evidence. Methods : In this review, PubMed was used to search medical journals. Keywords such as 'herb, or herbal medicine', 'safety, or adverse events, or adverse effect, or toxicity, or liver injury' were applied. Journals were selected by four inclusion criteria, as objectives should be human, researchers should be medical doctors, literature written in the English language, and types of journals should be meta-analysis or practice guideline or reviews. Finally, 9 cases from 60 journals were included in this review. Results : We reviewed 13 herbal medicines for controversy of toxicity such as ephedra(Mahuang), Arisolochia fangchi, Aristolochia manshuriensis, licorice, skullcap , germander, Syo-saiko-to(Xiao-chai-hu-tang), Chelidonium majus, mistletoe, Dictamnus dasycarpus and madder. Conclusions : It suggested that 'who it is prescribed for' is one of the most important factors to identify the causes of toxicity in herbal medicine and dietary supplements, under specific conditions in Korea.