Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (복식)

The Korean Society of Costume (한국복식학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

A Study on Replica Jodae(絛帶:Braided belt) through Cheungchosack(靑皁色:Bluish black) - Focused on the Excavated Jodae from Kim Won-taek's Family in Cheongju -

청조색(靑皁色)을 활용한 조선후기 조대(絛帶)의 재현 - 청주출토 김원택(金元澤, 1683-1766)일가 조대 중심 -

  • Park, Bong Soon (Dept. Clothing & Textile, Incheon National University) ;
  • Chang, In Woo (Dept. of Fashion Industry, Incheon National University)
  • 박봉순 (인천대학교 의류학과) ;
  • 장인우 (인천대학교 패션산업학과)
  • Received : 2016.01.15
  • Accepted : 2016.04.11
  • Published : 2016.04.30
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

This study is examines the replica of the excavated braided belt that tied the Daedae(大帶) of Simui(深衣). This study aims to comprehend the structure and color of the excavated braided belt, and to reproduce the Jodae(braided belt) of Kim Won-taek(1683-1766) clan, which was excavated in Cheongju. Black dye was used on the belt since it was the color that remained the most on the artifact. This study in the color black is focused on the Cheungchosack in Jeonggongji(展功志) from the first volume of 'Yimwongyeongjeji(林圓經濟志)'. From the Kim Won-taek clan, the braided belt of Simui of Kim Won-taek and his son, Kim Shang-jik(1716-1773), have been excavated. The blackness of the braided belt was more apparent in Kim Shang-jik compared to Kim Won-taek, and also Kim Shang-jik's braided belt was darkbrown. So I mixed gallnut, green vitriol, ash tree and catechu, the ingredient of bluish black, in equal proportions. Kim Won-taek's silk thread was dyed 3 times and Kim Sang-jik's silk thread was dyed 5 times to reproduce the original belt. Based on the information from the 'Saryepyenlam(四禮便覽)' that the Jo was weaved with five colored threads, I reproduced the Jo with sophora flowers, gardenia, amur cork tree, safflower, madder and indigo sediment. Yeokeum organization(interlacing), which is a Jodae woven strands of both sets of 15 repeats construction were in the mixed organization of 3/2 and 2/2.

Keywords

References

  1. Beijing Ancient Library of Rare Collections [北京圖書館古籍珍本叢刊] 12. (2000). Geogapilyongsarujunzip [居家必用事類全集]. Seoul, Republic of Korea, Tadongseowon. (Imprint Source : Beijing : 書目文獻出版社, 1987)
  2. Chang, l. W. (1998). A Study on the color of Daile Clothes of middle Era of the Chosun Dynasty. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 41.
  3. Cho, H. S. (2001). A Study of Fabrics Excavated from Inpyeongdaegunpa Uiwongun's family, Investigative report Costumes Excavated from Jeonju Lee′s Tomb. Republic of Korea, Kyonggi Provincial Museum.
  4. Choi, E. S. (2010). A Study of Costumes Excavated from Yi, Jin-sung's Tomb, Costumes Excavated from Yi, Jin-sung's Tomb. Seoul, Republic of Korea, The National Folk Museum of Korea.
  5. Jodae. (n.d.). National Folk Museum of Korea [Date Inpo], Retrieved from http://www.nfm.go.kr/Data/colSd_new.jsp
  6. Kim, M. j. (2012). Study on black colored dyeing using persimmon juice as a main dyeing material. (Master's thesis, Pusan National University, Republic of Korea), Retrieved from http://lib.pusan.ac.kr/
  7. Kim S. J. (2008). A Study of Morphological Characteristics and Manufacture of Jodae (絛帶, Braided Belt) during Joseon Dynasty. (Master's thesis, Sungkyunkwan University, Seoul, Republic of Korea), Seoul, Republic of Korea, Retrieved from http://lib.skku.edu/index.ax
  8. Koh, B. J. (2001). A Study of Costumes Excavated from Ik-jung(1699-1782) of jeonju Lee from Sangamdong. Korean Costume, 19.
  9. Lee, B. C. (2010). Imwonkyungjaeji-Jeonggongji-Dongyeom. Conservation science in museum, 11.
  10. Lee, E. J. (1994). A Study on the Blue and Black in Korean Traditional Costume. Journal of the korean society of clothing and textiles, 18(1).
  11. Lee, E. J. (2001). A Study of Costumes Excavated from Yiyoun-geung(1818-1879)'s Tomb, Investigative report Costumes Excavated from Jeonju Lee's Tomb. Republic of Korea, Kyonggi Provincial Museum.
  12. Lee, J. (1746). Saryepyenlam [四禮便覽], Vol 1.
  13. Lee, S. H., Yoo, S. L., Choi, M. G., Sin, S., & Choi, T. H. (2009). Natural Dyeing Characteristics of Black Color to Korea Traditional Hand-made Paper(Hanji). Mokchac Konghac, 37(4).
  14. Lee, Y. S. (1991). A Study on the Dyeing of color-black from plant. Journal of Human Environment and Art, 14.
  15. Lim, K. H. (2008). Restoration of Wide Braid Belt, GWANGDAHOE by Twill Construction in Joseon Period. (Master's thesis, Sungkyunkwan University, Seoul, Republic of Korea).
  16. Park, Y. M. & Choi, Y. W. (2013). Review of trends in preceding studies of traditional dahoe and looms of weavers. Journal of Asian Ethno-Forms, 12.
  17. Seo, Y. G. (1983). Yimwongyeongjeji [林園經濟志]. Seoul, Republic of Korea, Bogyeong Munhwasa. (Original work published 1842).
  18. Sim, K. B. (2014). A Study of "Shimui Chosang" in Late Joseon Period. (Master's thesis, Korea University, Seoul, Republic of Korea), Retrieved from http://library.korea.ac.kr
  19. Sim, Y. O. (2002). 5,000 years of Korean textiles. Seoul, Republic of Korea, Institute for studies of Ancient Textiles.
  20. Sim, Y. O. (2010). A Study of Fabrics Excavated from Yi, Jin-sung's Tomb, Costumes Excavated from Yi, Jin-sung's Tomb. Seoul, Republic of Korea, The National Folk Museum of Korea.
  21. Son, H. J. (2009). An analysis on structure of waist strips of the early or mid chosun period from the tombs of the yeosan song family. (Master's thesis, Busan national university, Busan, Republic of Korea), Retrieved from https://lib.pusan.ac.kr/
  22. Woo, J. Y. (2006). The Lifting of Kim Won-taek Graveyard Excavated Costumes, Kim Won-taek Graveyard Excavated Costumes. Republic of Korea, Chungbuk National University Museum.

Cited by

  1. A Study on Developing Women’s Vest Designs through the Application of Traditional Bojaki Technique vol.67, pp.3, 2017, https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2017.67.3.133
  2. A Study of the Black Colors in the Chosun Dynasty Investigated by Reproduction of the Colors : On the Basis of Poducheongsaek, Cheongjosaek, and Hyeonsaek vol.70, pp.2, 2020, https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2020.70.2.053