• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제29권4호
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• pp.276-283
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• 2017

The aim of this study is to develop an effective dyeing process for black color on the silk fabrics, using natural Indigo, Madder, Amur cork tree, Alder, Logwood, and Gallnut. All natural dye materials were water-extracted, concentrated, and freeze-dried. Seven different processes were carried out and the color differences(${\Delta}E$) of black color with each process from the chemical black dyed fabric were compared. The light, washing, and rubbing fastness were evaluated. The black dyeing of the silk fabrics was well carried and excellent black color was obtained in every methods. The profound black color could be obtained by the subtractive mixture of the three primary colors of red, yellow, and blue in the order of indigo(blue) - amur cork tree(yellow) - madder or lac(red). Black color was efficiently obtained by iron mordant when logwood or alder fruit was used. The color difference(${\Delta}E$) from the black color with chemical dyestuff was the lowest in the indigo - amur cork tree - lac - iron method. Light fastness and washing fastness were excellent in all dyeing processes, showing grade 5. The fastness to rubbing was excellent as shown grade 5 in the dry samples of logwood - iron process and alder fruit - iron process.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제20권
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• pp.9-22
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• 2007

문화재의 생물방제를 목적으로 개발되어 시판되고 있는 3종의 식물 추출 천연 살충 살균제에 대한 문화재의 재질에 미치는 영향을 평가하였다. 평가 대상 재질은 1) 견직물 : 염색하지 않은 견직물, 황벽, 오배자, 오배자(명반 후매염), 오배자(녹반 후매염), 치자, 울금, 도토리, 도토리(녹반 후매염), 자초, 천근, 천근(명반 후매염), 홍화(홍염색), 소목, 소목(명반 선매염, 후매염) 염색 및 쪽, 쪽과 황벽 복염, 쪽과 소목 복염 견직물 2) 면직물 : 염색하지 않은 면직물, 황벽, 오배자, 오배자(명반 후매염), 치자, 도토리, 도토리(녹반 후매염), 자초, 천근, 천근(명반 후매염), 홍화(홍염색), 소목, 소목(명반선매염, 후매염) 염색 및 쪽, 쪽과 소목 복염 면직물, 3) 염색하지 않은 저마직물 4) 한지 : 염색하지 않은 한지, 소목, 쪽, 치자, 홍화(홍염색), 황벽 염색 한지 5) 안료분말 :석청 석록, 연단, 석간주, 주사, 주, 패각호분, 밀타승,대자, 석황, 쪽, 백토, 연백 남전 5)채색편 : 석청, 석록, 연단, 석간주, 주사, 주, 패각호분, 밀타승, 대자, 석황, 쪽, 백토, 연백, 남전이다. 시험은 시료를 습도 $55{\pm}1%$. 온도 $20{\pm}2^{\circ}C$의 환경에서 약제의 권장 농도의 10배에 9개월간 노출 시킨 후 기준 시료와의 색차와 인장강도를 비교 평가하였다. 약제 노출 후 염색을 하지 않은 견직물 면직물 저마직물 한지는 약제에 의한 색상 변화는 거의 일어나지 않았으나, 염색 견직물 면직물 한지는 도토리나 천근 염색 직물 등이나 치자 염색 한지를 제외하고는 대부분 일반인도 인식이 가능한 뚜렷한 색상차가 발생하였다. 특히 울금 염색 견직물은 가장 색상차가 뚜렷하였다. 그리고 안료분말이나 채색편은 납, 구리, 비소, 수은 함유 안료 및 식물성 안료 등에서 뚜렷한 색상차가 발생하였다. 인장강도는 염색하지 않은 견직물은 약제에 거의 변화가 없으며 면직물은 약간 감소하는 경향을 보이나, 염색을 한 견직물이나 면직물은 강도의 증가나 감소가 뚜렷하였다. 특히 천근 염색 견직물은 10% 이상의 강도 감소가, 쪽 염색 견직물은 10% 이상의 강도 증가가 일어났으며, 천근과 소목(명반 후매염) 염색 면직물은 10% 이상의 강도 감소 현상이 일어났다.

• 복식문화학회:학술대회논문집
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• 복식문화학회 2005년도 Joint International Conference
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• pp.90-90
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• 2005

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권4호
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• pp.506-513
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• 2013

Rubia cordifolia L (Indian madder) contains red color purpurin (65-67%) and yellow color munjistin (10-12%) as well as nordamncanthal (9-10%). Purpurin is a traditional red dye. The purpose of this research is to increase the dyeability of silk and light fastness of dyed silk fabric. We dyed silk fabrics after pretreatment to remove the yellow component of madder using various solvents such as ethyl acetate, ethanol, methanol, chloroform, and acetone. The total K/S value was the highest in the case of chloroform and reflectance was the lowest at the red color region from 470nm to 530nm. Chloroform dissolved the yellow color of Rubia cordifolia; in addition, we found that the total K/S value increased and the ${\Delta}E$ value decreased by chloroform pretreatment for silk dyeing.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.788-799
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• 1999

This study was performed to investigate the effect of mordants on the dyeability colorfastness to light and to laundering and biological properties of mordanted and natural-dyed cotton and silk substrates. Natural red dyes were extracted from Caesalpinia Sappan L. (Sappan wood) and Rubia Akane Nakai (Madder) by boil water Five different compounds of Al, Cr, Cu, Fe and Sn were used as mordanting agents. The result of this study are sumarized as follows ; 1. In the of the fabrics mordanted and dyed with sappan wood K/S value increases and λmax shifts to the longer wavelength as mordant concentration increases. Color of the fabrics dyed with sappan wood and madder change to redder bluer and lighter after mordanting. 2. As the number of repetition of dyeing-mordnating process increase the color of the dyed fabrics tend to be redder bluer and darker. Mordanted dyes with Al and Sn make chroma increase. The quantity of mordant absorbed in the silk fabric increase as mordant concentration increase. More Fe is absorbed in silk than Cr is. 3. After being exposed to light the fabrics dyed with sappan wood and madder change to less red Fe and Cu mordanting yeild better colorfastness to light than others does. Natural-dyed fabrics exposed to light tend to be faded and whitened in CIELAB chromaticity co-ordinates. So we might trace back the original color of ancient faded fabrics by changes in color of natural dyes. 4. After washing the colors of natural dyes change to more blue, Fe and Cu mordanting give better colorfastness to wash than others do. 5. The soil-burial cotton is more susceptible to mildew and rot than the silk is. Antimicrobial activity of the natural-dyed cotton can be enhanced by Cu and silk can be enhanced by Cu and Cr mordanting respectively.

• 한국자원식물학회지
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.297-303
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• 2004

꼭두서니에서 추출한 염료를 이용해 몇 가지 조건에서 견직물을 천연염색 해 봄으로써 견직물에 대한 꼭두서니의 염색성과 염료로서의 이용성을 조사하였다. 꼭두서니 추출물로 모시 섬유를 염색 한 결과 표면색은 YR계열로 나타났으나 매염제에 따라 다소 차이가 있어 FeSO$_4$, SnC1$_4$, tartaric acid에서 는 Y계열로, 동백, 콩대재에서는 R계열로 나타났다. 염색온도에 따른 모시섬유의 표면색과 염착농도는 염색온도가 높을수록 a값이 증가한 반면에 b값은 감소되었고, L값은 낮아졌다. 염착농도는 7$0^{\circ}C$ , 9$0^{\circ}C$, 6$0^{\circ}C$순으로 높았다. 염액의 pH에 따른 표면색은 pH 4와 9에서는 순 Y계열을 나타냈으며, 염착농도는 산이 강할수록 K/S값이 다소 높게 나타났다. 염액의 농도에 따른 표면색은 농도에 관계없이 기본적으로 YR계 열로 발색 되었으며 , 염착농도는 염액의 농도가 높을 수록 증가하는 경향을 나타냈다. 염 색시간에 따른 표면색과 염착농도는 10-120분간에 큰 차이가 없어 10분간으로도 충분한 것으로 나타났다.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.169-178
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to develop eco-printing method using natural dyes combined with chitosan treatment to impart various pattern effect on cotton fabric. It was examined whether tone-on-tone pattern effects could be produced by screen printing with chitosan paste and subsequently dip-dyed in natural dye bath. For polychromic colorants, fabrics were pre-mordanted and then screen printed with chitosan, while only chitosan printing treatment was applied for monochromic colorants. Color, dye uptake, washing, light and rubbing fastnesses of printed fabrics were measured in relation to the presence of chitosan printing. Pre-mordanting and chitosan printing treatment were applied to such polychromic colorants as madder, sappanwood, onion and cochineal. Also, printing pattern formation on fabrics was evaluated by differences in dye uptake and color. The results suggested that madder, onion and cochineal were effective on pattern formation. Regarding sappanwood, since dye uptake was increased only by pre-mordanting without chitosan printing treatment, there was little color difference and thus patterns were not clearly distinguished. Chitosan printing treatment tended to increase washing, light and rubbing fastnesses of dyed fabrics with polychromic colorants. Chitosan printing treatment was applied to monochromic colorants such as chlorophyll, gardenia and indigo and the effect of printing formation was examined according to the difference in dye uptake. Among monochromic dyes tried, chlorophyll was effective and chitosan printing improved washing and light fastnesses.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.314-324
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to obtain the dyed-fabrics of the elaborate patterns using the natural dye powders extracted from Galla Rhois, Sophorae Flos Immaturus, Clove, Sappan Wood, Madder, Log Wood and Japanese Green Alder. Specific informations on the separation and powder-making of each colorant were disclosed. Appropriate printing paste preparation and printing conditions including the viscosity and mordant concentration in the printing paste were investigated. The dyeability and colorfastness of the screen-printed silk fabrics with the colorant powders were discussed in terms of practical applicability. The deodorization and antimicrobial activities of the silk fabrics screen-printed with natural dyes were also assessed.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.902-912
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• 2003

The purpose of this research was two-folds; first, to investigate the type of soil contaminated in the Hunsang excavated from the Milchang-gun burial of Mapo for the purpose of proposing the adequate washing method, second, to utilize the chemical degradation result obtained from the previous research to identify the natural dye source used in the Hunsang textile. The application of KS K0251 test showed that the soil was more oleophilic than hydrophilic thus indicating that wet cleaning was more adequate that dry cleaning for the removal of Hunsang soil. The GC-MS result of the Hunsang extraction showed dimethyl phthalate and 2,4-di-tert-butylphenol as its degradation product and these coincided with the degradation products from the alizarin standard data of previous research. The comparison of the two suggested that it is likely that Hunsang was dyed with madder which has alizarin as its major chromophore.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제45권5호
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• pp.866-880
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• 2021

This study aimed to ex situ colorize laccase-entrapped bacterial cellulose (BC) with natural phenolic dyes, namely,madder, turmeric, and cochineal, and to determine the effect of laccase entrapment on the dyeability of BC using color strength (K/S) analysis. Results showed that laccase entrapment improved the dyeability of BC and that pre-entrapment was the most effective method, compared with meta-entrapment and post-entrapment methods. In addition, surface characterizations confirmed the successful entrapment of laccase inside the BC nanostructure and retention of the cellulosic and crystalline structures of BC. The washing durability test confirmed that the K/S value of BC had improved after laccase entrapment. Furthermore, laccase-entrapped BC colorized with cochineal dye had the highest washing durability due to the high molecular weight of cochineal dyerelative to the other dyes. This study suggests a novel method for enhancing the dyeability and washing durability of BC colorized ex situ with natural phenolic dyes by laccase entrapment.