• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.8 s.99
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• pp.127-143
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• 2005

This study provides a classifying framework in the modern knit wears, helps to have better understandings of the comparative differences between hand-knit skill and machine-knit skill in terms of the intrinsically characteristic values, and grasps the tendency in their applied techniques based on the characteristics. The comparative characteristics in modern knit wears are produced according to the used skills. The work completeness with which the clothing can be sublimated into the level of artistic phase is given in craftmanship-knit techniques. This makes it possible to design a rare one, and therefore provides a wider range of availability in clothing. The technical traits in craftman-ship-knit are identified as disassembly, specialty, decorativeness and rarity, and the different skills are employed by the characteristics. On the other hand, the differences are not used in ma-chine-knit wears in the way the craftmanship-knit type utilizes by the trait and, instead, the ma-chine-woven fabrics with a machine tool are taken on the whole. In the flow of fashion modes, the characteristics of machine-knitted wears are found remarkably in the modernized contemporary designs seeking for activity and functionality with the use of materials, colors and details minimized. And those trails are characterized as formality, simplicity, functionality and popularity. The comparison in knitting techniques is made in such a way of disassembly and formality; specialty and simplicity; decorativeness and functionality; and rarity and popularity.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.2 s.55
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• pp.189-199
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• 2005

The purposes of this study are to see a manufacturing process on knit by comparison, and to present whole garment knitting machine different from the traditional method of the production by using the whole garment system. The characteristics of each stage were examined through SDS-one, Shimaseiki Design CAD System and the whole garment knitting machine. The whole garment knitting machine as a method of composing a suit of knitting product is a way of making creative knitting fashion, which also can be used as a basic material for the further study on the whole garment knitting machine. Eventually, it is expected that this machine can satisfy the knit wearers' various needs by showing more useful method to knit designers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.1
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• pp.99-116
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• 2003

Knit is classified into two such as basic texture and applied one according to knitting principle, and the basic texture of weft knitting consists of single knit. rib knit, purl knit and interlock knit. The basic texture of warp knitting consists of double knit texture, double code knit texture and double vandyke knit texture. Fourteen costumes were produced with eighteen (18) different types and twenty four (24) raw materials, and we were trying to show a wide range of costumes produced with knitting by making two different brands at random and making different designs depending on four seasons. Knitting technique is very important element in that it allows special surface effectiveness and decides the characteristic of knitting materials. Knit designer plays very important roles such as selection of raw thread, deciding knitting technique and type of knitting machine in designing the knit. Therefore, the knit designer requires the ability to utilize the function of knitting machine to the maximum, the effort to acquire the variety of knitting technique, develop the new knitting technique and for the improvement of knitting design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.91-103
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• 2008

Because of comfortable texture and easy treatment, more and more knit products has been required for leisure such as sports, traveling, hobbies, and various social activities. Therefore, the demand of knit is gradually increasing in the clothing industry. There are, however, several issues, which require solutions, and we must develop higher value-added products, which differentiate from those of developing countries allowing us to compete and win in the world market. The patterns on porcelain of underglaze iron, which had been popular from late-l5th century to mid-16th century, are diverse, unique, and traditional--so valuable patterns of our own. The computer hitting machine enables the designer to conceive new designs and produce samples of fabrics within a few minutes, which allows us to save time for mass production. Therefore, it is an essential tool for the knitting industry. After collecting, analyzing, and choosing various patterns on porcelains of underglaze iron, This study reflects the actual experience of hitting the fabrics with the patterns through the computer knitting machine which is also used to produce patterns after designing the new patterns through Adobe Illustrator and Photoshop, which has several merits. This article compares and analyzes them for production, which uses the patterns that has been designed from the patterns on porcelains of underglaze iron.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.131-144
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to examine the type of stitch and designs of knitwears using handcraft ornament techniques. This paper will also go on to develop and merchandize high value generated by design development. Knit is largely divided into weft knit stitch and warp knit stitch which are respectively woven by weft knitting machine and warp knitting machine. For clothing, circular knit and flat knit are frequently used while plain stitch, rib stitch and purl stitch are perceived as the basic stitches. Denbigh stitch, cord stitch, atlas stitch, which belong to tricot stitch, are the basic of warp knit stitch. There are also numerous fancy fabrics adapting the previously mentioned stitches and these are made into solid pattern and yarn dyed pattern. The handcraft ornament techniques in knitwears design are embroidery, beads, sequin, stone, printing, applique and fringe, etc. By applying these techniques thus creative expression, which cannot be expressed in other fashion items, is feasible. The women's knitwears are tries by mixed and various techniques, develope to high value knitwears, escaping from simple and practical items.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.43-53
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to show inherent and differentiated beauty by designing costume knitwear using Dancho patterns representing peculiar beauty, thus expressing free and convenient knitwear in the modern sense for women with the image of reasonableness and elegance, proposing knit design using high-class materials for satisfying the demand for the highest. With regard to expression technique of works, I selected computer Jacquard method to indicate effective comparison effect of expression material and made expression with $12{\sim}14$ gauge as base by using computer knitting machine. Through above-mentioned research process and design using Knit CAD system, I obtained following conclusion. First, it is possible to express variously and widely traditional patterns by making the most of the beauty of the orient and by recomposing the patterns of plant patterns representing "feminine image". Second, it is possible to widely represent the sense you can feel from knit by expressing variously diversity of knit structure and Jacquard knitting structure and gauge. Finally, it is possible to express designs more freely and imaginably by using computer Knit CAD system instead of actual knitting of various knit expression technique and materials application.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.77-90
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• 2015

This study is to designed to provide foundation for knit design which can apply the thickness and flexibility of jacquard knit by analyzing and comparing mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard (normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, floating jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, transfer jacquard) widely used in knit design to achieve the results. The sample was projected by using 7 gauge and SES-122S type computer knitting machine house tooth pattern with two colors were applied to 7 types of jacquard using Acrylic/Wool(30%/70%) $2/50.5^{\prime}s{\times}4ply\;yarn$ by Shimaseiki MFG., Ltd computer knitting machine. The mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). HV(Hand Value) and THV (Total Hand Value) were calculated by using the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-WINTER respectively. The measurements were evaluated by 0-to-5 rating scale. As result, the floating jacquard was found to have excellent drape, making it suitable for express feminine silhouette with its most flexible and smooth touch. On the other hand, bird's eye jacquard is adequate for a suit jacket and coat regarding its excellent volume and flexibility. Blister jacquard and tubular jacquard are thick, heavy and stiff knit and both are suitable for simple box-style design. Ladder's back jacquard, however, is more appropriate for expressing the design of feminine charm and voluminous design. Based on the result of this study, it is supposed to provide basic information for development of knit industry regarding jacquard knit by designing the creative knit wear with high production efficiency.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.1-10
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to analyze the structural properties of 100% wool fabrics knitted with various stitch types and to evaluate dimensional stability from shrinkage in wet cleaning and drying. Materials were weft-knitted from twenty-four different stitches with 7 gauge using a computerized flatbed knitting machine. Weight, thickness, density, and length were measured. A domestic washing machine and a tumble dryer were used for the shrinkage test. The results are as follows: Knitted fabrics were divided into 3 groups based on weight per unit area. Porous knits show light weight whilst milano, pintuck, rib stitches belong to the heaviest group. A positive correlation between weight and thickness was found and the same result was obtained for wale density and weight. Dimensional shrinkage of knitted fabrics was increased during repetitive wet cleaning and drying regardless of knit stitches. Especially, fabrics knitted with float, tuck, cable, and links & links stitches samples were contracted more than 15% in the first treatment whereas 2x1 rib stitch showed 1% shrinkage rate. Fisherman and milano stitches contracted in both course and wale direction with similar shrinkage rates. However, porous knits with float and tuck stitches shrank in course direction by 20% as well as cable samples contracted from 5% to 20% after repeated washing and drying. On the other hand, 30% and 15% contraction of wale direction occurred in orderly float and links & links stitches, respectively. Machine dried knits have a higher shrinkage rate than air-dried knits, but the drying method did not affect to the direction of contraction. In conclusion, variations of knit, tuck, and float stitches affect knit construction and dimensional stability from shrinkage in wet cleaning and drying of wool knitted fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.562-570
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• 2006

Knit industry requires versatile knit designers who have to control whole process such as material select, color, type of machine, technique, structure and shape. In other words, knit designers urgently need to interplay between technology and design aesthetics. It becomes essential to learn and master basic principles of knitting in order to design and develop effectively for innovative knitwear design. The main purpose of this study is to show fresh methodology through examining the various applications of 'Stitch transfer knitting structure' used in women's knitwear design development. Stitch transfer knitting structure is one of the most popular techniques among various basic knitting methods. Eight knitwears were designed and produced with various types of formative applications which differ from existent stitch transfer knitwears of flat and simple style in the market. These are produced by computer knitting machine 'Shima Seiki 122S' and programmed by 'Knit CAD' software. Among various basic stitch transfer pattern, 'Leaf' pattern is selected as a most effective example for this study. This fabric applied to collar, sleeves, body pattern and accessories as formative decoration. It is expected that this study of methodology helps to get open mind and to indicate possibility to develop and show creative and innovative knitwear and knitted textile design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.12
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• pp.2062-2072
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• 2010

This research evaluates the change of the water absorbency and drying speed of a quick-drying knit fabric by repeated laundering and laundering conditions and investigates the influence of laundering conditions on the functional properties of the knit fabric. Four factors of laundering conditions were studied: detergent, water hardness, water temperature, and frequency of rotation. Knit fabrics were washed for 25 laundering cycles in a drum-type washing machine with nine different laundering conditions derived from an orthogonal array. The properties of knit fabrics were measured with a drop absorption test, a strip test, and a drying time test. Relaxation shrinkage pointed to a change in the structural characteristics of the knit fabric. Wetting time was faster and wickability was greater in the knit fabrics that underwent 5 laundering cycles; in addition, there were no obvious changes in wetting time and wickability. The detergent was the most important factor in wetting time (40.4%) and wickability (60% or above). Water hardness, water temperature and RPM had less of an effect on wetting time and wickability. There were no significant differences between the levels of laundering conditions (except for detergent) on wetting time and wickability. Drying times with neutral and alkali were slower by repeated laundering; however, there was no obvious change in drying time. Hardness, water temperature and RPM had less of an impact on drying time.