• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.50 no.3
• /
• pp.145-159
• /
• 2000

The first introduction of reformed Korean traditional cloth in was started in the age of civilization and until liberation from imperialism it was made a reformation in faculty from Korean traditional clothing. And by 1980s western style costume took lead but after Asian Game in 1986 and Seoul Olympic in 1988 Korean traditional beauty was added to costume and there were various attempt to produce truly reformed Korean traditional clothing. The present condition of reformed Korean traditional clothing in 1990s are like this : 1) Most of reformed Korean traditional clothing ships could not fractionalize customers. So it needs to subdivide and specialize customer and investment to improvement of design. 2) A large percentage of reformed Korean traditional clothing is ordinary dresses. So it should develop various sorts and color, design and textile and be in harmony with international trend. 3) Most of shops handled a coordinate goods like a bag and shoes. 4) In the investigation customers they wanted various colors, high quality in design , logical price and a periodical sale. So four pieces of the reformed Korean traditional costumes were designed and produced based on the present condition.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.6 s.115
• /
• pp.1-16
• /
• 2007

The study aimed to develop the nightgown considering the construction and design features of the Shimui and the Cheolik. The analysis on the construction features of the Korean traditional costume and the physiological and motional attributes while sleeping resulted into the construction factors of the nightgown developed in the study. Consequently, the nightgown having these traditional Korean costume features were made for the evaluation. 4 different types of nightgowns were designed to be constructed. 20 professional clothing staff evaluated these 4 nightgowns developed and the existing nightgown used in the hotel industry. The results from the wearing test evaluation were: (1) to consider the stable closure of the gowns while wearing, the scores of the gowns developed were higher than the existing one. (2) the evaluations of the wearing comfort of the standing posture for the gowns developed and the existed were more or less similar but considering the lying down posture, the scores of the developed ones were significantly higher. (3) the gowns developed to have the wide-ham lines were considered more appropriate to the leg movement compared to the existing gown. The results from the fit and appearance test evaluation were: (1) throughout the all hight levels, the means of the gowns developed were higher than the existing gown's means in the most of the evaluation questions. (2) in the evaluation of the Korean traditional features, the gowns developed were more appropriate than the existing one. Consequently, the gowns developed were considered better to compare to the existing one in the context of postures, movements, comfort, appearance, fit, and design features.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
• /
• 2003.02a
• /
• pp.8-8
• /
• 2003

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.8 no.3
• /
• pp.565-577
• /
• 1999

In this world of globalism, achieving the winning position in the competitive international market is essential in the area of fashion industry. For this reason, we should accomplish this task by adapting our own traditional beauty to the modern fashion design through the modernization of the Korean traditional style. Therefore, this study attempted to analyze the fashion design works of the active Korean fashion designer, Sul Yoon-Hyung, focusing on the subject how she incorporated the modern fashion design with the traditional motives. In order to study this research subject, both quantitative and qualitative research methods were used to collect and analyse the textile motives used in the designer's works found from the major fashion magazines, Bazaar, Vogue, Marie Claire, ELLE, WWD, and Fashion Today during the last seven years(1993-1999). The collected research data, 68 works, was counted and analyzed in terms of the categories of Korean traditional motives they were adapted from, the application techniques, and the aesthetic characteristics. As a result of the study, it was found that Sul Yoon-Hyung has adapted different kinds of Korean traditional motives including motives borrowed from the nature such as flowers and animals, geometrical forms, and Chinese letters with different specific symbolic meanings for each motif and many different techniques were utilized to apply these motives. It was apparent to note that the Korean traditional motives were successfully incorporated into her fashion design works expressing the beauty of oriental grace, naturalism, sophistication, and above all, the modern sense.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.24 no.1
• /
• pp.60-74
• /
• 2020

A Podaegi is a square cloth used to carry a baby. Podaegi was an essential necessity for raising baby. However currently Koreans prefer baby-carriers, baby hip-seats, and equipments other than Podaegi. Recently, Podaegi is becoming popular around the world. Therefore, it is necessary to study Podaegi to inform Korea's traditional parenting culture product. In this research, 230 images of Podaegi were collected from paintings, photographs, postcards, films and artifacts from the late 18th century to 2000. The period of study was divided into three phases from the late Joseon Dynasty to before the opening of the port, from the opening of the port to before the liberation, and from the liberation to 2000. Types of Podaegi were categorized according to its shape and how to use. Transition process of Podaegi was examined. Podaegis were categorized into band type, blanket type, combination type, cheone type, modern type, and so on. From the late Joseon Dynasty to before the pre-openings, band type was used. From the opening of the port to liberation, all types of Podaegi appeared. Since the liberation, the use of band and blanket type has gradually decreased. Modern types have been the most popular since the 1960s. Materials of Podaegi became varied and Podaegi became a fashion-item. Later, modern Podaegi became the representative form of Korean traditional Podaegi.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.1 no.1
• /
• pp.69-73
• /
• 1999

Korean and Japanese, both people have a lot of similarity and complexity in terms of physical constitution and culture. This study might be the first implementation that tries to figure out constitutional differences of both people in scientific way. In this study, subjects were from each country, had been exposed $5^{\circ}C$ environment wearing each country's traditional costume- so called Hanbok and Kimono- and all through this experiment we'd compared physiological responses and analyzed differences of cold response go with their own clothing culture. We've obtained following results: Korean had kept maintaining low mean skin temperature basically in cold circumstance, compared with Japanese, have stronger cold tolerance. However, there's no significant difference between Korean and Japanese. Owing to huge influence of wearing other country's traditional costume itself even makes differences of rectal temperature in a cold environment. In addition, in a period of time that wearing other country's traditional costume, thermal sensation would be different according to exposed surrounding temperature.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.12 no.5
• /
• pp.564-573
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study is to investigate decoration techniques applied to the Korean traditional costume of modern style which are shown in special monthly magazines relevant to the traditional magazine. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. The types of decoration techniques applied to the Korean traditional costume are largely classified into single and composite types. In the traditional costume of the former type, a quite many of gold and silver foils and embroideries are found. While, in that of the latter type, a combination of two different decorations, embroideries and seonchigi or multi-colored stripes and seonchigi is often used. These decoration techniques are usually applied to some parts of the costume like git, kkeutdong or cuffs, somae or sleeves, seop, goreum or coat strings, jacket or jeogori, the lower hem of the skirt and between joined parts in the skirt. Used together with the techniques, patterns are usually applied onto embroideries and gold or silver foils. Most of the patterns are flower in shape. The main material of the Korean traditional costume is fabrics that have no pattern on the surface and are commercially available irrespective of season. Git used for jeogori is largely classified into dangko git and donggrae git in type. Its color is in most cases same as the main color of jeogori. Keutdong for jeogori is usually 4 to 5.5 cm in breadth, classified as type II. Its color is in most cases white. Goreum for jeogori is usually large in length. Its color is most cases same as that of jegori or reddish purple or blackish red purple.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.12 no.6
• /
• pp.705-714
• /
• 2010

This study has the purpose of classifying the types of decoration techniques applied to the Korean traditional costume of modern style which are shown in relevant monthly magazines and analyzing the characteristics of the techniques. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. The types of decoration techniques applied to the Korean traditional costume are classified into single and composite types according to decorative components. In the traditional costume of the former type, a quite many of gold and silver foils and embroideries are found. While, in that of the latter type, a combination of two different decorations, gold and silver foils and embroideries, embroideries and seonchigi or embroideries and stitches is usually used. These decoration techniques are usually applied to some parts of the costume like git, kkeutdong or cuffs, somae or sleeves, jacket or jeogori, the lower hem of the skirt and between joined parts in the skirt. More notably, Korean traditional costumes for women shown in monthly magazines released during the period as mentioned above were investigated to find that a part of the women's clothes, that is, skirt was in most cases decorated with brilliant embroideries. Used together with the techniques, patterns are usually applied onto embroideries and gold or silver foils. Most of the patterns are flower in shape. The main material of the Korean traditional costume is fabrics that have brilliant patterns on the surface and are commercially available irrespective of season. Consequently, since 2010, flower motive patterns which are important in modern fashion trend will be used in embroideries, gold and silver foils. Additionally, embroideries such as seakdong, applique, drawing made with modern style will be the main stream of new HanBok style.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.7 no.2
• /
• pp.135-142
• /
• 2005

Through the formative analysis of the traditional jokakbo, we have composed surface composition that was made by a perfect square, triangle, a weather vane type, vertical type, cint$\tilde{a}$mani type, and a mixed rectangular. And we have composed that was made by vivid tone, pale tone, and so on, and finally analyzed image, preference rate of them. First, the cause of composition for the image of stimulant was composed by the cause of simplicity characteristics, interesting characteristics, rigid-flexibility characteristics, and modern characteristics. Secondly, the image of clothes was revealed as a simple image of perfect square, a feminine image of cint$\tilde{a}$mani type, a modern image of mixed rectangular in the case of large pattern. And in the case of small pattern, perfect square was revealed as a simple image, cint$\tilde{a}$mani type was revealed as a feminine image, triangle with achromatic colored weather vane type and pale tone was revealed as an interesting image, achromatic colored and pale toned a weather vane type, vivid toned vertical type was revealed as a modern image. Lastly, it revealed that the preference rate against clothes is related with the cause of simplicity characteristics, interesting characteristics, and rigid-flexibility characteristics in the case of large patterns, and especially in the case of large patterns and small patterns, the clothes of pale tone are more preferred. And achromatic colored mixed rectangular and chromatic colored cint$\tilde{a}$mani type are more preferred by the large patterns, and chromatic colored and pale toned weather vane type is more preferred by the small patterns.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.22 no.1
• /
• pp.16-27
• /
• 2014

This study investigated the characteristics of and changes in hemp textile production practices at Gurye in Jeollanam-do in modern times. To do this, in this study, both a literature review and fieldwork research were utilized as research methods. The literature review focused on Gurye's hemp data, and the fieldwork research involved two separate trials. Male and Female residents of Gurye who had experience in the area of hemp production from the 1920s to the 1980s participated in this study. The results were as follows. First, regarding hemp fiber cultivation in Gurye, hemp cultivation continued to the 1970s and there were no changes in hemp cultivation practices during the Japanese colonial-era. Second, there have been very important changes in hemp kilns over time. In the 1950s, there were both single-body kilns and separate-body kilns in Gurye. Later, specifically in the 1950s, a new type of kiln using an iron pot appeared, and the most modern kilns were concrete structures. Third, in Gurye, women cooperatively removed hemp husks immediately after stemming, subsequently bleaching the hemp by soaking it in lye or caustic soda. Over time, there have been changes in ash types and in soaking periods. Fourth, loom types changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom in the 1930s- to 1940s. Fifth, since the 1970s, the hemp textile output levels of Gurye have been reduced due to the westernization of clothing styles, the inflow of Chinese hemp fiber and government regulations pertaining to hemp cultivation.