• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.8
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• pp.114-126
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• 2011

Many varieties in folk costumes have inspired fashion designs for a long time. Each country, with a unique style of its own reflects their own traditions, beliefs, customs and morals into their traditional costumes. The traditional methods of creating different ways of drapery methods by using only a rectangular piece of cloth have been passed down from generation to generation and it is still used today. This way of styling has been developed mainly in the Middle East, Asia and Africa and the modifiable ways of creating drapery wearing methods are as follows. The first modifiable styling method is changing the purpose of wearing costumes according to the needs and the wants of the person who wears it. The second method is exposing the knots on the surface of the garments and by doing this, there was no visible difference on the aesthetic formation and it did not alternate for a long time. This means that simple knot shapes have been used to tie edges of rectangular fabrics. The third method is a wrapping type of modifiable styling method, which has been used most commonly in folk costumes because there are lots of ways to wrap a rectangular cloth around the body. The fourth way is the fixed type of modifiable styling method and this method can only be noticed only in the Moroccan Izar using fibulas and belts to alter the shape of the Izar. The fifth method is the composite type of modifiable styling method. This method starts by cutting out cylindrical shapes of fabrics and then wraps or twists it to fit the body. The most significant character of modifiable styling methods in folk costumes is to use rectangular cloths, which varies only in ratio of length, width and sizes. Therefore, this study suggests that rectangular cloths can create enormous amounts of fashion styling which can be easily adapted and created in everyday fashion life.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.58-65
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• 2015

Compared to pavement of Chinese palace gardens, those of private gardens in south part of the Yangtze River(長江) in China shows variety of patterns. In order to figure out what causes the difference in paving pattern, this article focuses on the traditional Chinese ideologies during the all time. An analysis on 'Classical Gardens of Suzhou', which has been designated as UNESCO World Heritage, was used to determine how ideologies have influence on paving pattern of Classical Gardens. As a result, various Chinese ideologies such as Nature worship, Totemism, Confucianism, Taoism, Buddhism, and Folk Culture were found in paving patterns of the private gardens. Pattern of sun in the Retreat & Reflection Garden(Toisawon) is an example of Nature worship among primitive beliefs of ancient China. Phoenix pattern of the Couple's Retreat Garden(Ouyuan, Liuyuan) reflects Totemistic beliefs. Confucianism is the underlying philosophy of Eight Square pattern, Six Square pattern, and Cross Square pattern. These patterns were mainly used to pave large area and easily found in many gardens. Patterns reflect Taoism are "Wufu holding life" pattern(the Five blessing holding life, 五福捧壽), Flat peach pattern, and Alluding Eight Immortals pattern. Paving patterns related to Buddhism are patterns of 'Eight treasures' and Endless knot pattern appears most frequently since it expresses concept of reincarnation well. Paving patterns shows folk culture and beliefs of the time in China are bat, butterfly, dragonfly, frog, carp, and coin(ingot).

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.159-174
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• 2017

The study uses lists of wedding gifts used from old Korean documents written in Hangeul in the western Gyungnam province during the 20th century. The study analyzed four lists of wedding gifts from the Muncheongak archive and two lists from the archive of ancient document. This analysis found that clothing accounts for the majority of the items in the lists, and items such as furniture, jewelry, household goods, and medical materials were also recorded. That the furnishings were commonly prepared by the groom's side, and the fact that the number of jeogori was higher than the number of skirt, speaks to the unique wedding custom of Gyeongsang province. While the groom's list of wedding gifts included a record of the bride's ornaments, jewelry, and furnishings in the bride's list, the groom's nickel top-knot pin was only included as an ornament. In the list of wedding gifts between brothers, the gifts for the eldest son differed from those for the third son in terms of number and price. The list of wedding gifts between father and son illustrates how economic development and changing times wedding custom. The lists of wedding gifts in the old Korean documents shed light on the oral research into 20th century wedding custom, which will be used as basic data in researching and reproducting the wedding culture and life conditions of the time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.19
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• pp.141-155
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• 1992

The Buddhist costumes, unlike the ordinary ones, have not been studied comprehensively due to their religious, non-popular and non-social features. In this regard, this paper aimed at reviewing the styles and symbolic Characters of the monks' dancing costumes for the traditional Buddhist ceremony of 'Spirit Vulture Peak'(The Intangible Cultural Asset No.50.) Here, the 'Spirit Vulture Peak Ceremony' is a kind of Buddhist ceremony commemorating the Buddha's preaches on the peak of Mt. Grdhrakuta by means of symbolized ritual and reformation procedures. The methodology of this study depended on the research of literatures, personal observation of the actual ceremony and the discussion with Priest Park Song-am. The dancing style of the Ceremony can be divided into four categories; the cymbal dancing., the drum dancing , the butterfly dancing and the column-beating dancing. And for the dancing costumes, the loose ritual mantle, the long-sleeve robe and the buddhist costume are used; the loose mantle and the long-sleeve robe are for the drum dancing. The style of the loose mantle is rectangular, sewn every odd knot between 5 and 25 ones. According to the record, its color was initially grey or red-yellow, but varied depending on the local rules. The four corners of the loose mantle have a rectangular-cloth embroidery of sky & king patterns, and the center is embroidered with the Sun'Moon designs or 'Om/Nan' letters in the Korean spells. The light of Sun/ Moon designs symbolizing the sky and the earth respectively are indigenous to a particular school in Korea. The long-sleeve robe has a traditional over-coat style. and is called otherwise of if some design is added. The total clothing or dancing costumes for the Ceremony include 'the Dae-ryung (meaning great peake)loose mantle', 'the White Paldad(meaning Chinese Character eight) long-sleeve robe and the peaked hat. The Dae-ryung mantle is a kind of ritual costumes with the shorter length than the ordinary mantles, and has a character 'Ryung' in Chinese spell attached with three to six colors. The White Paldae robe is shorter than the ordinary robes in the total length but longer in the length of sleeves. It is put on over the mantle from the left shoulder, and used often for the butterfly and column-beating dancings. It is hoped that this study will promote the study on the customs and rites of the Buddhism rather than on the thoughts, and contribute to the further studies.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.54 no.3
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• pp.52-67
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• 2021

This study is an attempt to explore the roles of and the collaborative relationship between Daheojang and Maedeupjang. Daheojang and Maedeupjang share a similar manufacturing process. However, in modern times, Daheojang totally disappeared, and Maedeupjang was designated as an intangible cultural property. The present study will investigate the role of Daheojang and Maedeupjang based on the literature of the Joseon dynasty. Daheojang were craftsmen who made bands and strings of woven or twisted silk strands. They made mangsu and tassels or made knots to produce magnificent artifacts. Maedeupjang complete all steps of the process, from refining, dyeing, combining threads, daheo, maedeup, to the tassel. Daheojang in the Joseon dynasty was the center of this process. Daheojang belonged to almost all Uigwe because it used items ranging from large uso to cushion straps. Dahoe is a craft with various items and techniques. It has been widely used to produce majestic items like formal dresses, ritual ceremony pieces, and mountings, as well as daily items like jodae, pocket straps, and norigae. Based on the records of Uigwe in the late Joseon dynasty, the study explored the collaborative relationship between Daheojang and Maedeupjang. Sambang, the room where both Daheojang and Maedeupjang belong, was the room to produce the royal chair. The royal chair essentially includes large uso. The large uso is an artifact that ties a knot in a thick circle more than two meters long. While Daheojang made rounded daheo, Maedeupjang made delicate and balanced knots. Also, they produced royal inscriptions together with a royal seal with decorative mangsu and a seal of thick rounded daheo. In order to learn about traditional technology, it is necessary to study the system of the times and social trends. Therefore, the study focused on Daheojang, who were common master craftsmen during the Joseon dynasty but now are not familiar to most people.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.16-37
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• 2015

As a result of analyzing the forming and the transformations of Seokjojeon Hall garden by linking it to the changes of Deoksugung Palace influenced by the social atmosphere, the Seokjojeon garden can be classified into four phases. The first phase starts from 1896 to 1914. Gyeongungung was built in the late 19th century(1896-1897) as an official palace and Junghwajeon Hall and Seokjojeon Hall was built for Gojong. J.M.Brown was in charge of the construction of Seokjojeon in the beginning but H.W.Davidson saw the end also set up the garden. In the process of forming the garden the incorporating of Dondeokjeon Hall and the demolishing of the west wing corridors of Junghwajeon Hall occurred. At this phase of the garden a statue of an eagle was put up in the garden but was soon taken down. The shape of the garden was quiet simple with a central axial pathway, a round assorted flower bed placed in front of Seokjojeon Hall. The second phase starts from 1915 to 1932 which lasted for 17 years. At the last years of the Great Han Empire the duties of Gungnaebu(宮內府) was transferred to Leewangjik(李王職) in 1911 and a research on the existing buildings was done by Jujeonkwa(主殿課) in 1915. According to the research drawings, the garden still maintained the axial pathway formed in the previous phase but the garden had an asymmetric form. The flower bed was formed in a round shape and an open-knot technique and boundary plantation was applied to the garden. The third phase starts from 1933 to 1937 and is the period when Seokjojeon Hall was made public. By the year of 1932 many buildings of Deoksugung Palace had been demolished in the preparation of the opening of Seokjojeon Hall as a permanent exhibition hall. The central axial pathway still remained in the new garden and added a pond with a turtle statue in the center. The fourth phase starts from 1938 until the liberation from Japan and is the period when Deoksugung Palace became a park. Yi Royal-Family Museum was built and linked to Seokjojeon Hall with a bridge and the garden transformed into a sunken garden. The garden adopted a fountain and a pagora. Despite the minor changes in the after years the garden still posses most of its form from the fourth phase. As we can see the current garden of Seokjojeon Hall is not the same as the initial garden and therefor the importance of this study lies in the fact that modifications to the statements regarding to Seokjojeon Hall garden should be made.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.84-107
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• 2018

Cheommojik is a pile cloth, a type of textile whose surface is covered with short piles. The term chaedam was used during the late Joseon dynasty to refer to pile cloth rugs, while the terms yoongjeon, dantong and yangtanja were used in the early twentieth century. Various documents, newspaper articles and photographs confirm that pile cloth rugs were used by the general public as well as the royal family from the late Joseon dynasty onward, and that there were domestic manufacturers of such rugs at that time. This study investigated six pile cloth rugs that were produced after the late Joseon dynasty, five of which feature Persian knots made of cut pile, the other being made with the loop pile method. The cut pile rugs are rectangular in shape and measure between 72-98cm by 150-156cm; and they are decorated in the middle with patterns of butterfly, deer, and tiger or the ten longevity symbols, and along the edges with patterns composed of 卍 symbols. The ground warp of all six rugs are made from cotton yarn, while the ground weft is made of cotton yarn on three pieces, wool on one piece and cotton and viscose rayon. The ground weft yarn from four pieces are Z-twist yarn made with two or more S-twist cotton yarn. Four to six colors were used for the pile weft, all being natural colors except for red. Two or more S- or Z-twist yarn were twisted together in the opposite twist for the pile weft, with the thickness determining the number of threads used. Six or more weft threads were used to make the start and end points of the rug; and the ground warp ends were arranged by tying every four of them together. For the left and right edges, three or more threads were wrapped together into a round stick-like form, and the second and third inner ground warps from the edges were stitched on to the wrapped edge. For the loop pile, loops were made in the direction of the warp; the ground warp and the ground weft may have been made with cotton, the pile warp with wool yarn. An analysis of the components of three rugs was conducted to determine which types of animal hair were used for the pile weft. Despite some inconclusive results, it was revealed that goat hair and fat-tailed sheep hair were used, raising the possibility that various kinds of animal fur were used in the production of pile cloth rugs. The six rugs examined in this study are estimated to have been made between the late 1800s and the early 1900s. Although the manufacturer of the rugs cannot be confirmed, we concluded that the rugs were produced in Korea after referring to the documentation of the domestic production of pile cloth rugs during the aforementioned period and the form and placements of the patterns on the rugs.