• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.3
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• pp.93-106
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• 2016

The aims of this study are to elucidate the relationship between the luxurious trends of costumes and the importation of Ming's patterned textiles in the $17^{th}$ century, and to analyze the similarity between certain Joseon and Ming fabric patterns. After Imjinwaeran[임진왜란] and Byungjahoran[병자호란], more diverse Joseon textile patterns appeared. Generally, wars lead to a shortage of luxury goods and basic commodities. However, $17^{th}$ century Joseon had an abundance of luxury goods, which allowed even some commoners to have clothing made of Chinese silk. That was the result of free trade between the Koreans and the Chinese merchants in Joseon. Ming's merchants followed the Ming's troops into the Korean Peninsula and targeted Koreans to sell their goods, such as fur coats and fur hats. Free trade between Ming and Joseon took place at Junggang [중강] and Donggangjin [동강진]. Joseon imported Chinese textiles there and resold them to Japanese merchants. Some of the Changgi Chung's excavated fabrics might be an evidence of the import from the Ming. These fabrics had the inscription and were similar to Ming fabrics. It can be assumed that trade occurred between Joseon, China, and Japan, as fabrics found in the countries had similar patterns such as flower, bee, and four seasons, which represented longevity. Furthermore, Chinese fabrics might have triggered Joseon's weaving skills to develop, which led to the ability to weave refined and beautiful brocade satin at Sangbang [상방]. According to Uigwe[의궤], Sangbang could weave silk fabrics in the 1620s and 1630s. The improvement of weaving techniques might make it possible to weave some popular patterns at Sangbang.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.6
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• pp.89-100
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• 2010

This study is intended to analyze current status of costume in the cultural industry and explore feasibility of integrating costume as important cultural contents in the digital era. Among the websites for contents as the cultural archetypes, some have strong foundations while others don't. First, as for various archetypal characters restored based on the Korean history, most of their clothes focus on shapes and colors but lack details. They should be produced in 3D to provide back views or textile patterns to users. To ease understanding of the history of costume, user-friendly services such as launch of a pop-up window when users click on specific contents in question should be available for detailed information. At least there should be a link to other related sites where users can conveniently find more details. Second, some sites have too much data under one subject, increasing complexity and undermining orderliness. As a result, it takes long time to identify the site map. In this case, it is required to rearrange the contents with Quick View by subject and related links for in-depth study. Third, each subject is important to develop the archetypes for a variety of purposes. Creation of design derived from them or their commercialization can be an example but these activities should not restrict imagination of users or degrade the value of the archetypes. Last, it is needed to adopt validation system to detect the needs for a regular update (renewal) and to fix errors. We found many servers whose operation is not stable in general. When these technical issues are addressed for stable operation, users will rely on the sites to utilize them for their purpose of developing the cultural archetypes. In conclusion, advancement of www.culturecontent.com is essential. Based on efficient management and operation of the system, the quality of contents would be increased and multi-faceted advertising campaigns focusing on needs should be launched, to promote application of the contents. This is the recommendation for the future of the cultural archetype industry in Korea.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.32-48
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• 2007

Korean traditional flower motifs have often been used in traditional embroidery on personal products and on decorations. The flower motifs seen on embroidery with a variety of techniques show the shapes and colors changing to more and more brilliant and colorful design. Even today the flower motifs in embroideries continue to be reinterpreted in both modern ways and also in traditional ways with their fancy beauty in the design industry. This research is based on documentary and demonstrative studies conducted to find out the formative properties of these motifs through and analyzing the shapes and colors of flower motif embroideries from the Choseon Dynasty as applied in developing modern designs in harmony with their traditional beauty. A summary of the research is as follows. First, the peony blossom appears the most, with its gorgeous flower shape. It was used in a variety of ways for decorative purposes as well as in wishing for wealth and harmony on clothes or on personal products. Second, the result of analyzing the flower motifs on embroidery shows that 'realistic-complex- flower patterns' and 'stylized-complex-flower patterns' are mostly seen. Third, many of the peony blossoms, chrysanthemums, and Japanese apricots were in a radial shape and front facing with stamens, and the lotus flowers were mostly shown on the lateral side. Fourth, as a result of analyzing the colors of the flower motifs on embroideries, a tendency is shown toward the R and RP colors of v, b tone and the shades YR, Y, GY, and G colors of lt and p tone.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.1-9
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• 2009

Nowadays, Tra catfish fat is given attention as an appropriate material for biodiesel production in Vietnam. The aim of this work is to investigate the optimal conditions of refining biodiesel and recovering glycerin by the transesterification from Tra catfish fat using KOH catalyst. As our results, the yield of transesterification was achieved to 94.17% at $50^{\circ}C$ for 45 min with 6:1 molar ratio of methanol to fat in the presence of 0.8% KOH catalyst, and wherein the biodiesel was refined by washing with distilled water at $70^{\circ}C$ and dried in a microwave oven. The yield of raw glycerin recoveries from the transesterification process was 78.58%. The purity of raw glycerin was 84.14% by the conditions of neutralization state with $H_{3}PO_{4}$ solution (pH = 5), $70^{\circ}C$, and 60 min. Activated carbon (3.0 wt.%) was used for the bleaching process at $80^{\circ}C$ for 20 min. The biodiesel was obtained in accordance with for ASTM D 6751 (biodiesel standard). The ash and water of raw glycerins were 7.32 and 8.01%, respectively, and implied that the raw glycerin is very promising candidate to be used as a raw material for textile and cosmetic industries.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Near Infrared Spectroscopy Conference
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• 2001.06a
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• pp.1171-1171
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• 2001

Quantitative analysis is an important requirement in exploration, mining and processing of minerals. There is an increasing need for the use of quantitative mineralogical data to assist with bore hole logging, deposit delineation, grade control, feed to processing plants and monitoring of solid process residues. Quantitative analysis using X-Ray Powder Diffraction (XRD) requires fine grinding and the addition of a reference material, or the application of Rietveld analysis to XRD patterns to provide accurate analysis of the suite of minerals present. Whilst accurate quantitative data can be obtained in this manner, the method is time consuming and limited to the laboratory. Mid infrared when combined with multivariant analysis has also been used for quantitative analysis. However, factors such as the absorption coefficients and refractive index of the minerals requires special sample preparation and dilution in a dispersive medium, such as KBr to minimize distortion of spectral features. In contrast, the lower intensity of the overtones and combinations of the fundamental vibrations in the near infrared allow direct measurement of virtually any solid without special sample preparation or dilution. Thus Near Infrared Spectroscopy (NIR) has found application for quantitative on-line/in line analysis and control in a range of processing applications which include, moisture control in clay and textile processing, fermentation processes, wheat analysis, gasoline analysis and chemicals and polymers. It is developing rapidly in the mineral exploration industry and has been underpinned by the development of portable NIR spectrometers and spectral libraries of a wide range of minerals. For example, iron ores have been identified and characterized in terms of the individual mineral components using field spectrometers. Data acquisition time of NIR field instruments is of the order of seconds and sample preparation is minimal. Consequently these types of spectrometers have great potential for in-line or on-line application in the minerals industry. To demonstrate the applicability of NIR field spectroscopy for quantitative analysis of minerals, a specific example on the quantification of lateritic bauxites will be presented. It has been shown that the application of Partial Least Squares regression analysis (PLS) to the NIR spectra can be used to quantify chemistry and mineralogy in a range of lateritic bauxites. Important, issues such as sampling, precision, repeatability, and replication which influence the results will be discussed.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.83-92
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• 2010

The current design paradigm shift which has been in progress around the world would be a good opportunity for Korea, which has led the age of information, to build design competence and gain international competitiveness. In addition, it would be a good idea for colleges as well as firms to develop a new educational system and create academia-industry-research synergy. This paper researches the market KU project promoted by Design Venture KU which has been established by the College of Artand Design of Konkuk University as a part of differentiation strategy. The methods to improve the competitiveness of Korean fashion design by uniting college creativity and market practicality are as follows: First, for convergence of creativity and practicality, it is necessary to come up with a systematic design-based educational system. In other words, the undergraduate program needs to gradually expand courses by focusing on creativity instead of functions while the graduate program should be able to develop design pattern, textile and marketing products and secure the market to gain competitiveness as a business incubator. Second, the working-level engineers as well as professors will be encouraged to participate in special lectures or seminars and take necessary lessons. In addition, academia-industry cooperation courses will be further strengthened. It is also important to actively participate in an official contest or exhibition and receive a prize. Third, to elicit creativity from students, it is necessary to help them think in a flexible and experimental way with voluntary and interesting programs. As mentioned above, it is expected that 'Market KU Project' would help students build expertise by offering them a chance to experience the real world and become the world's leading designers in Korean fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.11 s.158
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• pp.1495-1506
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• 2006

The purposes of this study are to investigate the formation and the change of apparel retail structure historically with the viewpoint that the retail structure is affected by the process of economic development. This study was done by literature research method and the result of this study is the following. The tailor and seamstress shops, the first clothing shops in Korea, were replaced by ready-made shops, because mass production system which had developed with the industrialization of Korea increased the advantage of economy of scale compared to handicrafts individual one. After that, the production system of apparel industry had been efficient continuously, while retail system had not. The retailing of famous brand apparel conducted by exclusive franchise store caused supplier oriented markets where the opinion and the desire of consumers were not reflected. While the retailing of the unknown brand apparel handled by small retail stores were inefficient. As the apparel industry matured in 1990s, various types of new stores appeared such as specialty stores, discount stores, TV home shopping, internet shopping, outlet malls, and big fashion stores in Dongdeamoon. These new stores have features of seeking profits in mass merchandising. As these large retail stores grow, the apparel retail structure of Korea is changing from a fragmented market to a vertically integrated one. This change is shown by the decrease of stores per inhabitants. With the change of environment, the apparel retail system which has lagged behind comparatively is expected to develop into more efficient system based on the large capital investment which raise the advantage of economy of scale.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.12
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• pp.1701-1708
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• 2002

본 연구의 목적은 자외선 차단 가공 처리 및 자외선 조사처리에 의해 면직물의 역학적 특성 변화를 조사하고 가공제 처리조건에 따른 차이점을 분석하는 것이다. 시료로는 100% 면직물을, 자외선 흡수제로 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxy benzophenone을, 첨가제로 Triton X-100, polyethylene glycol 400, MgCl$_2$.6$H_2O$를 사용하였다. 자외선 흡수제 처리는 Atlas Launder-O-meter로 75$^{\circ}C$에서 60분간 흡진법으로 하였다. 미처리 시료 및 처리시료는 모두 xenon 램프에 80시간 동안 노출되었으며, 자외선 조사 전후 시료의 역학적 특성은 KES-F시스템을 사용하여 측정하였다. 본 연구의 결과는 다음과 같이 요약할 수 있다. 자외선 흡수제 처리는 처리 농도에 상관없이 면직물의 선형인장성(LT), 인장레질리언스(RT), 굽힘강성(B), 굽힘이력(2HB), 전단강성(G), 전단이력(2HG5), 표면마찰계수(MIU)등을 증가시켰으며 표면거칠기(SMD)는 감소시켰다. 압축특성은 처리농도의 영향을 받아서 고농도의 자외선 흡수제 처리는 압축특성을 감소시켰으며, 저농도의 처리는 압축특성을 증가시켰다. 자외 선 흡수제 처리는 처리농도에 상관없이 면직물의 fullness/softness를 유의하게 증가시키는 반면 stiffness, crispness및 anti-drape stiffness를 감소시켜서 가공포의 종합태(THV)는 가공 전에 비하여 저하하였다. 자외선 조사는 가공 전 면직물의 경우 B, 2HB, G, 2HG, 2HG5, LC를 감소시켰다. 자외선 조사는 처리농도와 상관없이 가공포의 WT, 굽힘특성 , 전단특성을 감소시켰으며, 저농도의 흡수제 처리포의 경우 SMD를 증가시켰으며, 고농도의 흡수제 처리포의 경우 SMD를 감소시켰다. 자외선 조사는 처리농도와 상관없이 가공포의fullness/softness, stiffness, anti-drape stiffness를 유의하게 감소시켜서 자외선 조사 전 보다 THV가 37% 저하하였고 미 가공포의 THV를 저하율보다는 저하가 낮았다. 자외선 흡수제 처리에 의해 면직물의 태는 가공 전보다 감소하지만, 자외선 흡수제 처리는 자외선 조사에 의한 태 감소율을 낮추는 데 유의 한 효과가 있다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.46 no.1
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• pp.80-98
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• 2022

Artificial intelligent chatbot services have recently become common in fashion e-retailing and are expected to improve online shopping by making it easy to recommend products. This study examines whether the perceived quality of a fashion chatbot affects consumers' trust and perception of usefulness, which in turn influences satisfaction and intention to use, in accordance with the information system success model. The study also investigates differences in perceived quality and consumer response variables between high and low groups of self-efficacy. A total of 341 consumers participated in an online survey. The results revealed that information quality and system quality had a significant impact on perceived usefulness and trust, and that service quality significantly impacted trust. Perceived usefulness and trust had a positive effect on consumer satisfaction, which in turn had a positive effect on intention to use. In addition, the findings revealed that people who had higher self-efficacy showed higher scores on perceived usefulness, trust, satisfaction, and intention to use chatbots as compared to people who had lower self-efficacy. This study suggested theoretical implications by applying the information system success model theory to fashion chatbot studies. It also suggested practical implications for e-commerce marketers developing retail strategies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.531-542
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• 2009

This study examines the correlation between the characteristics of sustainable slow design, The outcome derived from the pro-environmental consciousness in fashion design, and the trends of modern fashion design. The conclusion of this study is as follows. First, slow design for sustainability shows an environmental consciousness and stresses the ethical aspects of fashion design that take into account the wellbeing and sustainable development of human society. It also focuses on the continuos present in which the consistent pace of life endures, rather than pursuing speedy changes of fashion by titillating desire. Second, the five characteristics of slow design have been extracted from the analysis of the examples of fashion industry and other fashion-related areas. They are sustainability, recyclibility, handicraft, naturalness, and simplicity. Third, these characteristics of slow design have much to do with modern fashion genres. For instance, classical style fashions such as Chanel suit and Burberry coat have the same qualities of sustainability, while at the same time the Vintage fashion, which reinterprets the fashions from bygone eras in modern style, has the tendency of recyclibility, and the Hippie style, a resurrection of hand-touch spirit that emerged as a secondhand style expressionism resisting uniform mass production, has not only the quality of handicraft but also recyclibility.