• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.5
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• pp.71-87
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• 2010

The purpose of the study is analyzing Japanese modern costume, through examining legislation process and the relics of Chickimkwan's and Juimkwan's court costume. The results of the study are as follows. First, the proposer of civil court costume, established in 1872, was Iwakura Mission dispatched to America and Europe. The Mission realized the importance of preparing western-style costume in civilization from experience wearing traditional clothing at ceremony of presenting credentials in America. Afterwards, the Mission proposed that the government accept western-style as civil court costume and became first wearers in Japanese in England. Second, the difference, between ordinance and actual clothes worn by Iwakura Mission, occurred in process of legislation in 1872. That might be considered as trial and error in introducing different culture. The coexistence of England and French styles was unified into French style by the revision of civil court costume in 1886. Third, the pattern of paulownia embroidered on civil court costume was utilized as symbol of Japan. While the costume of Chickimkwan was embroidered by the pattern of 7 and 5 leaves paulownia, that of Juimkwan was 5 and 3 leaves expressing their grades. Fourth, relics research showed how formed manufacturer information and enacted design were in embroidery. The relics seemed to be manufactured in Japan, because emblem of Mitsukosi tailor was embroidered on inner part of the back of collar of Chickimkwan in Nara Women's University, Japan and that of Yamasaki on left inner pocket of Juimkwan in the Independence Hall, Korea. The embroider techniques comprised forming by filler particles according to the design, filling up coiled gold threads and expressing stem with gold threads and spangles. As preemptive study, establishment process of Japanese civil court costume in this study will help understand form characteristics appeared in civil court costume act of Korean Empire.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.165-181
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• 2016

This study looks into the Korean traditional costume formation and the thoughts of the Korean people that form the foundation of that Korean traditional costume formation. And the goal of this study is in linking the thoughts and formative characteristics reflected in the Korean traditional costume formation to the fractal geometry, in an attempt to reveal correlation between Korean traditional costume formation which have existed for thousands of years to contemporary science of the West. The fractal theory that appeared as the new paradigm of contemporary science displayed similarities with the traditional ideologies of Korea, and the fact that formation principles of fractal appear in the formation of Korean costume, formed based on the Korean ideologies, show magnanimous capacity of the traditional Korean culture. When we look at the concept of fractal, the word fractal refers to the structure in which the shape repeats, where small structure is similar to the whole structure in form in endlessly repeating structure. In other words, 'fractal' means a structure that geometrically untangles the concept of 'self-similarity' which possesses the same shape in parts and in whole, and its major characteristics include 'self-similarity', 'circularity' and 'repeatability'. Korean costumes were formed based on the Han-thoughts, with a structure that possesses parts within the whole and the whole within parts, in accordance with the self-similarity theory of 'fractal'. This study compared studied fractal phenomenon which appear in formation characteristics of Korean traditional costume, which were formed based on the Korean traditional ideology, in other words, Korean costume formation and formation principles of fractal geometry were compared studied.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.135-151
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• 2003

This study was carried out in order to become that it helped a base of education to train creation of movie costume. The object is the movie costume of the movie, The Age of Innocence that got the Academy award in movie costume. This study analyzed the costume and color symbolism of the film based on the novel, The Age of Innocence written by Edith Wharton who is a realism writer, and a master of manners and customs novel, is the first Pulitzer Prizewinner as a woman. And this study created the movie costume and hair-style of two heroines, May and Ellen who lead the huge irony that is principal stream of a novel. May stands for 'irony of innocence' and Ellen does for 'absolute innocence'. And each image represents on a display of the front and back of 'innocence' symbolically. The costume design of them was planned along the character which was analyzed and interpreted irony of a drama in a viewpoint of Wharton through this study and expressed with illustration. And using 57cm Porcelain doll, produced a hair-style and costume.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.63-75
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• 2004

The traditional Ukrain costume has been gradually developed and influenced by the climate and political, economical environments. The national costumes has represented the beliefs and understanding of people about the beauty and harmony of the world. Eastern Europe and Northern Asia are considered as the origins of the Korean traditional costume, and the artifacts ranged from over the Black Sea to ‘Skitai’ and Northern Asia to ‘Noinoola’ support this hypothesis. This study is investigate the formative characteristics of Ukrain national costume especially of the nineteenth century and the early twentieth century. In Ukrain, Men wear ‘Rubaha’ (shirts style's upper garment-in Ukrain Sarochka) and trousers, women wear ‘Rubaha’ with vest and a skirt and a head gear were worn. Ukrain is consisted with three group - 1) Dnipro region-included the Kiev region in the center of Ukrain, 2) Polissia region in the northwest of Ukra in and 3) Hutsul-Zakarpattia region in the west of Ukrain. These three groups have there own different formative characteristics of Ukrain traditional costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.5
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• pp.163-173
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• 2016

As the severity of environmental problems has come to light in recent times environmental protection has garnered more interest and importance. The purpose of this study was to determine the current research trends in ecofriendly fashion in Korea by analyzing the research trends related to eco fashion, provide information necessary for developing eco and eco-friendly fashion in the future, and set the research direction for related research. The study analyzed 1,746 research papers in Journal of Korean Society of Costume, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, Research Journal of the Costume Culture, and Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association from 2010 to 2014, and a total of 55 research papers related to eco fashion were selected. Major conclusions of the study are as follows: First, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles published the most papers on eco fashion, Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association published the fewest. Second, the highest number of research papers published in a year was 14 in 2014. Only a small number of papers were published in 2012, but the figure increased in 2014. Third, the most frequently covered topic among the 12 topics was the 'eco-friendly' topic with 13 papers (23.64%), followed by topics on corporate social responsibility (CSR), eco, sustainable, green, ethical, and recycle, respectively. The 7 topics above were covered by 47 of the selected 55 papers (85.45%). Fourth, the following research methods were used: the questionnaire method, literature review, case study, Internet search, costume construction, online survey and interview. The questionnaire method was used in 22 papers (29.33%), making it the most frequently used method. Fifth, fields of research were divided into fashion design(19 papers, 34.55%) and fashion marketing(36 papers, 65.45%). Papers on fashion design was published the most in 2010, and fashion marketing papers peaked in 2014. The use of eco fashion will be expanded in various ways in terms of country, firms and consumers in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.4
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• pp.25-38
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationship between lifestyle and the evaluative criteria of the Korean traditional costume, Hanbok and saenghwal hanbok. The questionnaires were administered to 291(men:.102,Women:189) university students in Seoul. Data were analysed by factor analysis, correlation coefficient, t-test. The results were as follows : 1) Factor analysis was used to determine the dimensions of the evaluative criteria of Hanbok, Saenghwal Hanbok and life style characteristics. The evaluative criteria dimensions were found to be different according to Hanbok. Saenghwal Hanbok. 2) In Hanbok, evaluative criteria were classified into comfort & easy care, prestige, design, fashion, suitability to yourself. 3) In Saenghwal Hanbok. evaluative criteria were classified into prestige, ease of care, design., appropriateness, brand. 4) The life style characteristics were classified into independence, activism. conservatism, and materialism. 5) There were the significant relationships between life style factor and clothing evaluative criteria. Especially for design in Hanbok and Saenghwal Hanbok was negative relationship with conservatism and positive relationship with activism. materialism. and Independence.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.2
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• pp.134-147
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• 2016

The mainstay of modern fashion design has always been Western costumes. Though Asian costumes do get featured in collections at times, most instances are just instances of the western culture showing curiosity toward non-mainstream costumes. Until recently, Japan, which has been the most active in cultural exchanges, has been the main recipient of these curiosities, and has been used as the representative style and culture of East Asia. What needs to be let known is that Korea has its own costume style and culture, which have been developed according to its tradition and beliefs. Hanbok, which is the representative traditional costume in Korea, has existed since the beginning of the Kochosun dynasties. I started this study to figure out the design source of Hanbok's shape and develop it into a modern costume. In the fashion industry, "Mandarin Collar" and "Kimono Sleeve" are common terms, And I hope that words like 'Korean Collar' and 'Hanbok Sleeve' will one day become a household term. Hanbok contains Korea image. And its shape is formed depending on how Koreans have been treating all sorts of objects or things for many years. If my study can identify and express the unique Korean way of pattern and considering clothes, which is clearly different from those of China and Japan, I will be able to establish a concept of 'Korean style', that people of the world could come to recognize.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.5
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• pp.101-114
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• 2009

In recent times Fusion Historic Soap Operas have been produced and highly rated in Showtime. They have encouraged more creative costume designs for historic soap operas, as it is difficult to re-create costumes of the era in which the soap opera is set, knowledge of which is scant or even non-existent. These more creative and innovative costumes appeal to young modern audience in a way which the more classical setting did not. This study aims to study styling of combat uniforms in two Fusion Historic Soap Operas- "Zumong" and "Taewangsasingi" and to introduce new styling for future use. Those combat uniforms in two fusion historic soap operas were reproduced by modern imaginations and fantasies, rather than historical researches. Also the new design has applied unique styling for each character and enhances characters in those soap operas. This study focuses on combat uniforms of main male characters, but it can be suggestible that following researches will study in a variety of costume design stylings and characters in future historical soap operas.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.3
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• pp.89-105
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to classify sleeves that play an important role in upper-garment designs and that can be presented in diverse shapes by meaningful era. Also, characteristics and trends of sleeves are analyzed to provide a basis for development of design on modem woman's dress. To examine formation and construction of sleeves, literature review and empirical examination were conducted, focusing on patterns of woman's dress presented in literature. This study is to concentrate on the period, the Renaissance to the 19C. In this study, characteristics of sleeves are analyzed by each era according to its shapes and construction. By analyzing the shape of sleeves and the characteristics of the construction of sleeves, the following conclusions had been reached. 1) Sleeves evolved from single, draped garments into dimensional shapes which were manipulated to reflect the changing trends. Considering the comfort and ease of movement have always been very important in clothing design and the construction of sleeves throughout the ages has consistently been able to provide the comfort that wearer demanded. 2) Shape of sleeves varies a little in each period, but recurring trends in fashion led to similar design in sleeves being repeated. Also, instead of a dramatic change in the construction of sleeves, each period had its own unique technique to add freshness by using a variety of ornamentation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.3
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• pp.61-73
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• 2002

The purpose of this study lies in pursuing the unique plastic arts with the orchid motif which has the graceful colors and a variety of shapes beauty. Another aspect of this study intends to crease the modern costume design with the high added value by expressing the texture according to the material and tissue development for the continual improvement and promotion of the modern costume design in the handicraft art area. The results through the theoretical survey and the work production are as follows : First, the orchid which has the various shapes and colors provides the designers with the unique plastic arts and the possibilities for the unlimited expressions as the design motives. Second, we can see the creation of cubic plastic beauty in the moving line, as the material which has the flexible and brilliant shape fixation, used for expressing the shape beauty of the orchid. Third, this study reveals the extension of expression areas as a characteristic of the plastic arcs by applying handicraft techniques such as dyeing, corded tuck, flounce, crochet, weaving, beads embroidery, and art flower to the costumes for developing the unique material and texture. Finally, the possibility is suggested that the desires of the moderns searching for their own individualities can be met by creating the costumes with the added vague as the exposure of esthetic consciousness through the handicraft expression techniques.