• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.36 no.9
• /
• pp.901-915
• /
• 2012

This study comparatively analyzes the characteristics, changes, and differences in class-based costume typology according to a concept of $17^{th}$ and $18^{th}$ century common people in France. The methods and contents are as follow. First, the scope of common people is grasped according to the historical background and a concept of $17^{th}$ and $18^{th}$ century common people in France. Second, through considering a prior research on analyzing the data of ancient documents on the economy of clothing, it classifies common people into bourgeoisie, urban common people, rural common people, and the destitute. It then examines diachronic evolution, and class-based synchronic difference in the consumption of $17^{th}$ and $18^{th}$ century common people's costumes in France. Third, it analyzes the appearance frequency by period according to type of common people's costumes, which were shown in pictorial materials with 283 sheets of engravings and 54 pieces of paintings; in addition, it reconstructs the succession and expansion in typology. It grasps differences and changes in morphology by class, space, and period of typology for common people's costumes. Common people's consumption of costumes was understood to have grown in qualitative aspects as well as a rise in the whole clothing demand. A class-based structure formed and indicated that a fashion cycle existed. As a result of analyzing common people's clothes (shown in pictorial materials of the $17^{th}$ and $18^{th}$ century) 41 items were grasped by gender and according to costume kind. Typology in common people's costumes (classified into bourgeoisie, urban common people, rural common people, and the destitute) showed a change by period. A change in typical costume typology was accepted more by the bourgeoisie than by urban and rural common people, and was accepted more by rural communities than by urban populations. Thus, a difference was formed through an expansion with a temporal difference that depended on class and space.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Gas
• /
• v.4 no.4 s.12
• /
• pp.20-24
• /
• 2000

The electrostatic safety consciousness of safety manager were investigated through questionnaires sent to liquid petroleum gas stations in Korea. In addition, hazards of fire and explosion due to electrostatic on synthetic-polymer-wears and cotton-wears were estimated experimentally. The results of questionnaires indicate most workers wear their working clothes indiscreetly owing to lack of knowledge of preventing electrostatic hazards. The amounts of electrostatic charge generated in synthetic-polymer-wears were 1.79, 1.44 and 1.02 $\mu$C in winter, spring and autumn and summer, respectively. All these values exceed the limit of working wears of 0.60$\mu$C requested by Korea Standard(KS K-7807) for preventing electrostatic hazards, which means hazards may occur. While, the charge in cotton-wears were in the range of 0.42 to 0.52$\mu$C, which suggests that the cotton-wears investigated in this study have no problem of hazards. Therefore workers, visual and experiential education are necessary for elevating the standard of on electrostatics. It is also necessary to establish standards of wearing for preventing electrostatic hazards.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.20
• /
• pp.151-167
• /
• 1993

The purpose of this study is to systematize the theory of the Fashion Marketing and merchandi-sing system as well as the strategy for the Mar-keting based on the related variable. Furthermore, this study deals with development of the mark-eting strategy to the relation between consumers and industry. The content conclusion on the research can be outlined as follows : 1. In order to inverstigate how the life-style of consumers affects their sense of fashion, awa-reness of brand, and decision making process of purchase, the life-style of women consumers is classified into 15 types. (1) Acording to the different life-style types, and important difference is found in the consum-ers' sense of clothes, a unique image of outfit and its own favorite image of womanliness. (2) The consumer's awareness of a particular brand has a reasonable relationship with their brand preference and possession of the brands. (3) Their is an important discrimination acco-rding to the life-style types in their brand awar-eness and preference and possesion of brands. (4) The consumers of each life-style type show noticeable difference in the decision making pro-cess of purchase including he motive of purchase, the source of information, the cause of purchase intention, price, the frequency of purchase and the degree of satisfaction of purchased goods. 2. The merchandising system and the market positioning among the fashion industry are compared and analyzed in the following terms ; (1-1) For the purpose of establishing the target market strategy, the industry uses unreasenalbe methods to analyze the life-style of the target customers and the real customers(36%) and the aging phenomenon of brands is remarkable : as much as 37% of brands show over 5 years-old age gap. (1-2) The price setting process depends highly on the cost-plus approach. (1-3) In color planning, too many colors are used in every season(the average number is 22.3) and the investigation of the consumers' favorite color is neglected. (1-4) The manufacturers of successful brands are much likely to employ the textile designer and allow them to develop the various fabrication. (1-5) The regular rate of sales in each season is extremely low(56.04%) : the rate of the succ-essful brands is relatively high at 65%, but that of the unsuccessful as low as 51%. (1-6) 47% of brands reveal the designer-orie-nted fashion merchandising system. The successful brands, on the other hand, show a high rate of merchandiser oriented system. (2) Since the brand positioning is highly cen-tered on each brand image, styles and target age, the new data are presented in this study for the new market development. (3) To set up the target market, the mapping of images between the differentiated market and the consumers is suggersted according to the market positioning of industry and 15 types of the life-styles of consumers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.22
• /
• pp.205-224
• /
• 1994

It was aimed to study the costume of Koryo dynasty based upon the thirty pictures of Bud-dha to hang on the wall among the existing Buddist paintings. The costume to study were made about 64 years during the King Chung-yol(1286) to the King Chung-jong(1350) which style was mostly related in Won Dynasty. 가) Men's wear ; 1. Hair style and hair dress ; Man tied up a top knot and they put on the hat such as a Kuan Kun and Mo. The young boys binds his hair up one, two, and three knot-s, and tied up with a hair ribbon, A kinds of Kuan-mo were Mine-lu-kuan Yuan-yu-kuan, Nong-kuan, Hae-chi-kuan Pok-du Yun-wha-kuan Yip-mo- and Tu-ku(Helmeto) 2. clothes ; 1) Colour of Koryo King's Mien-ku Kuan costume was not agree with blue and reddish black colour which was used in Yo, Song, Kum and Won Dynasty, however black and greenhish blue colour was agreed with. 2) The king wore T'ung-t'ien-kuan(Yuan-yu-kuan) and the government officials wore Chin-hien-kuan Hae-chi-kuan and Nong-kuan as a court dress. In general the king and the Crown Prince wore a hats which was used in T'ung-t'ien system however sometimes they wore small hats which was cited in literature. 3) Gate guard and upper garment wore colourful costume figured gold colour pattern which was distin-gtive costume system of Koryo. 4) A monk wore big sleeve long skirt big sleeve long jacket long skirt and shoulder scar-f full shoulder scarf or right hand shoulder opened scarf. 5) The Soldiers wore helmet shoulder or scarf pee-back hung-kap, pok-kap, yang-dan-g-kap we-yu-kap kun-kap, and boots and they carried arms. 6) The young boys wore scarf, loin cloth, long skirt, belt neckless, wan-silk, boots and foots wear and wristless. 나) Women's wear ; 1. Hair style and hairs and tied up with a hair ribbon and wore precious ston decorated hair dress wheel shape hair dress pan shaped head dress handkerchif covered hair dress decorated precious stone hair pin silk chippon made of head dress muf-fler shaped hairdress. Boots mocasin hae lee, suk and sandle wored as a shoes depends on the classes. They wore neckless, earing wres-tless and wan-pu-sik. 2. Closthe 1) High rank lade's wore un-kyun attached jacket and jacket sleeves decorated pleats and pleats decorated long skirt apron back apron knot belt, scarf this type is the same with Dang Dynasty five dynasty of china Song, Kum Won, Myung Dynasty and our cos-tume of Poe-hae, and Shilla Dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.22
• /
• pp.277-296
• /
• 1994

The progressive artists in Austria including Gustav Klimt organized the Viennes Se-cessionist in 1897 and they took an active part in the reformation of the reformation of the applied art by accepting the Jugendstil standing for the true art. The vocabularies which characterize this group are decoration literature and the power of symbol. Klimt especially expressed these characteristics and his strong person-ality. For he created his works with the sym-bolic and friendly splendor through his highly decorative talents by accepting the enwly changed artistic situation in those days and by getting out of the naturalistic trends he was regarded as an avant-garde artist as a major figure among the Symbolist artists who revived European culture which was destroyed through the World War I. The characteristics of klimt's works was to express the various human thoughts and minds through the decorativeness and the femininity and to use the decorative elements of old Greek and Egyptian culture and Japanese art as the motives of his works, His art is to be found between the naturalistic characteristics and formalization as well as between the in-dustrial arts and the fine arts. In his many portraits he preferred women by trying to express eroticism hidden behind the human inner world. For this he demonstrated the attractiveness and the characteristics of the models by designing the illusionary and unique clothes. In general his genius was to be seen through the costume which was decorated with metals and jewels and through the characteristics of the modern costume in which the previous solid silhouette was removed and the gentle and elegant me-dium color was used. by accepting the new artistic trends in the turn of the century by fully expressing those characteristics in his creative world and by taking his theme from the eroticism through the decorativeness and the expression of women Gustav Klimt's uniquely decorative ex-pression completely realized the aesthetics of Jugendstil symbol decoration and expression which displayed not only the external appear-ance but also the inner world. Especially he created a new appearance emphasizing the costume of the characters in his works. Also through the costume he expressed his artistic consciousness and psy-chology. He showed the characteristics of the reformed costume through the medium color the simple forms and gentle silhouette. Also he tried to symbolize the passionate inner pow-er by designing the small mosaics such as the geometrical patterns whirlpool patterns and the indecent meanings all over the costume. Klmt's this kinds of attemps shows a Stil Kostume as the external outcome of the inner spiritual activities like art and it establishes a basis for the theory of costume are which deals with the concepts of costume from the artistics points of view. This tradition playing an important role in the contemporary history of costume even has been still inherited up to today.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.46
• /
• pp.17-30
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this study is to investigate the philosophy behind the Kasaya and its evolution through its clothing material colour structure and sewing. According to the study the results were as follows. 1. The philosophy behind the dressing of the Kasaya can be found in the Therefore wearing the Kasaya symbolizes the Buddhist philosophy of Jat'ailshisongbul ("Simultaneous attaining of Buddhahood for Everyone") 2. The material symbolizes endurance and contentiment by being satisfied with any kind of clothes may they be good or bad. The material of the kasaya comes to signify the harmony among the monk's community 3. The Kasaya uses peculiar colours and the prohibits the use of the five primary and seconary colous. This is to symbolize equality wherein there is no distinction between the noble and the mean. 4. The structure of the Kasaya according the takes the form of a field The Jo is cut lengthwise and divided in nine grades following the Mahayana tradition as written in the This idea reflects the philosophy of salvation of the Pure land thought. The Je has many Jang('long') and fex Dan('short') The meaning of this is that all living beings by self-cultivation can overcome the dirty law of the secular world and follow the way of the sage who have attained their Buddha nature. 5. With respect to the sewing after finishin the sewing the Jang and the Dan are combined together representing the interdependence between the holy person and the common person. Therefore the sewing ssymbolizes the interconnection among all living beings as it arise from the "conditional causation" law. As I have shown above the philosophy behind of the Kasaya developed and was enriched as it cross over China from India to the Original Buddhist thought with which was created in India was added the richness of the Mahayana buddhist thought. As I have shown above the philosophy behind of the Kasaya developed and was enriched as it cross over China from India to the Original Buddhist thought with which was created in India was added the richness of the Nahayana Buddhist thought with which was created in India was added the richness of the Mahayana buddhist thought. As a result the Dasaya came to signify the "field image". The field-image symbolized by the kasaya came to signify the "heart-field" of all living beings. The "heart-field" by its cultivation is field with blessings. Therefore from the sanghati the Nine Grade the evolution and changes in the designs of the kasaya through the different periods of history became clearly an expression how it is possible for anybody to attend the Buddha nature. This changes also show how the Buddhist precepts became reformed from the original Buddhism.ecepts became reformed from the original Buddhism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.32
• /
• pp.163-182
• /
• 1997

The purpose of this study was intended to analyze artistic formativeness represented in the modern fashion design materials. Nowadays the modern fashion design materials is characterized by variety. The fashion materials the most important of fashion is called a softwear in textile industry and emerged as a new field. Fashion design also escaped from the tra-ditional restraint and extended to pursue lib-eral clothes and the designer's creative inten-tion has resulted in conceptual and conven-tional alteration as a new mode of plastic ex-preseeion. As a results of analysis of the formative fea-ture of Art style represented in the modern fashion design materials. First Surrealism had been searching for a new way of confronting a social and rtistic environment that was stifling and repugnant to them. Accordingly the wide applicaytion of the various object due to the thought of Sur-realism through the modern fashion materials brought the diversification and individua-lization of the modern fashion design. Second Pop Art that is made modern mech-anic culture and commercialism brought the great transformation in the history of Art out of the existing style and the sense of ex-pression. And the plastic characteristics of Pop Art that has a gravity as modern fashion materials on a them of the elements of popular consumer's society. That is the common and cheap objects were introduced into fashion materials itself or pat-tern. Third Minimalism is a trend in art att-empting to seek essence of the object by presenting simple and disciplined expressions by minimal formative means. The features of external form are simplicity clarity unrelated composition and symmetrical structure. Mini-malism was a quest for basic elements repre-senting the fundamental esthetic values of art. The minimal expression in modern fashion materials mean fabrics with simple surface and is contained using simple geometric pattern or utilizing textiles without any patterns. Fourth Eroticism is a kind of psychological revolution in the development of human civilization and is deeply rooted in the cultural tradition of myth religion customs and art. So Eroticism must be distinguished from a mere animal reproduction. These erotic char-acteristics were holded the meanings of sexu-ality through the modern fashion materials. Especially it was expressed the sexual part of body was nakedly showed through trans-parent materials or semitransparent like metalic and opaque materials. Recently the various kinds of new materials such as paper vinyle plastic metal as well as human body were applied to new fashion de-sign. First of all the new materials will give modern fashion designers stimuli and inspi-ration. It can also express values of moderners to despise materialism and uniformed modern society and to recover humanity and self-actualization.

• Journal of Conservation Science
• /
• v.25 no.2
• /
• pp.219-231
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study is to provide basic information necessary for the cleaning of excavated costumes. For the purpose, these researchers reviewed previous records of the actual cleaning of excavated costumes and then implemented and documented the processes of cleaning the Yeosan Song's costumes excavated at Mokdal-dong, Daejeon, which could date back to the early and mid periods of Choseon Dynasty. The excavated clothes of the family provide good examples for comparing men's costume of the 15th century with men's and women's of the mid and late 16th century. The total quantity of excavated remains were 184 and textiles were cotton, silk, hemp, ramie, and union cloth. The clothing remains were processed through wet or dry cleaning in accordance with their fabric condition and the extent to which they were worn or polluted. In detail, the excavated costumes of the Yeosan Song family were cleaned in two stages. For wet cleaning, both anionic(LAS) and nonionic(Triton X-100) surfactants were respectively used as cleaning agents and for dry cleaning, a mixture of n-hexane and n-decane(the ratio of 4 to 6) and petrolic dry cleaning solvent were used. After first cleaning, some cotton, ramie and hemp which had still the stains were processed bleaching and silk which were good condition was processed dry cleaning with the organic solvent again.

• Journal of Korean Society of Occupational and Environmental Hygiene
• /
• v.26 no.2
• /
• pp.159-169
• /
• 2016

Objectives: The objective of this study was to evaluate the generating characteristics of VOCs and the exposure effect to chemicals among laundry workers and to identify the current status of occupational safety and health through health check-ups. Methods: During the six-month period from April to September 2015, this study quantitatively measured seven VOCs in ten laundries and carried out health examinations on 35 workers. Results: Comparing the monitoring results for the ten laundries, they were classified into three groups by ventilation system, dry-cleaning and size of shop. The average concentration of toluene, chlorobenzene, xylene, ethylbenzene, benzene, styrene and TCE were 23.9, 15.6, 5.5, 2.8, 0.9, 0.3 and $1.3{\mu}g/m^3$, respectively. During dry-cleaning, VOC concentrations were 1.3-8.9 times higher than usual. On the other hand, at night the concentrations of toluene, chlorobenzene, xylene, ethylbenzene, benzene, styrene and TCE were 64.3, 41.5, 12.2, 6.3, 1.1, 1.2 and $6.6{\mu}g/m^3$, respectively. The health checkup results for the 35 workers showed that 13 workers were diagnosed as normal, while 22 workers were diagnosed as requiring continuous monitoring or re-checkup of liver and hematogenous functions. Conclusions: Although the results of exposure evaluation to VOCs did not exceed reference value and items had a low correlation with health checkup items, it is necessary to improve indoor air quality due to VOC volatilization from clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Radiology
• /
• v.9 no.2
• /
• pp.79-99
• /
• 2015

Participants of this study were students of radiology who were attending colleges or universities located in Daegu and Gyeongbuk. This researcher conducted a questionnaire survey of those students from Feb. 3rd to 21st, 2014. The findings of the study can be summarized as follows. 1. Concerning the knowledge of radiation exposure management, the respondents' scores were highest in two items, or 'Materials based on lead or concrete may shield X-rays' and 'The sexual gland is very sensitive to radiation' and lowest in the item which says' 'Occupational radiation exposure dose should not exceed 20mSv a year in average on a 5-year period basis'. 2. The participants' scores for the attitudes of radiation exposure management were higher in two items, or 'Health examination should be made regularly in relation to radiation exposure' and 'Those who work within the area of irradiation should wear protective clothes' and lowest in the item which says 'Radiation exposure dose should be regularly measured for the calibration of the radiation system'. 3. For the behaviors of radiation exposure management, the surveyed students showed highest scores in two items, or 'When irradiating the patient, the radiator should be behind the protective barrier(plate)' and 'It is needed to receive the education of radiation exposure management regularly' While, their score for a behavior described in the item saying 'Before using the radiation system, it is needed to check whether the machine works normally.